There’s a lot of confusion about how, when and where to use wood oils. It’s no surprise really, when there are so many to choose from: Teak oil, Tung oil, Danish oil, Oak furniture oil and many more, some of which are specifically designed for certain types of wood.
We thought it’d be helpful to take a look at wood oils and how to use them, and answer some of the most common questions on the subject.
First, what is wood oil?
Oil is one of the most popular ways to finish wood. The protection delivered by oils isn’t quite as robust and effective as contemporary wood finishing products like varnishes. But on the plus side, oils tend to bring out the character of the wood better, they’re made of natural products, plus they’re very easy to apply and maintain.
Types of wood oil and how to use them
Danish oil and Teak oil dry faster than linseed oil, which is traditionally used on willow cricket bats. The finish they provide is also much more resilient.
If your wood already has linseed oil on it, it’s best to carry on using it. But if it’s a new project, something that hasn’t been oiled before, steer clear of linseed oil. While Teak oil delivers a slight sheen, Danish oil leaves a more lustrous finish. As you can imagine, Ronseal Teak Oil is a firm favourite with our customers.
- Apply Danish and Teak oil with a soft brush or cloth, being careful not to use too much at a time or it won’t sink in. Sand the wood in between coats with a fine sandpaper. You will probably find 3 or 4 coats of oil is your optimum, delivering the best results.
Standard linseed oil takes ages to dry, at least two or three days per coat, and you need multiple coats when applying it to new wood, normally three to five coats but in some cases, as many as fifteen to twenty coats can be applied. Boiled linseed oil, on the other hand, ‘only’ takes a day to dry. But neither are suitable for outdoor wood.
- Apply the oil with a cloth and rub it in well. Leave a day between coats and once you’re happy with the finish, buff it to a lovely sheen with a soft cloth
Mineral oil is actually a very effective laxative, which you should be able to buy at your local chemist. While it doesn’t give you the same sheen as the other oils we’ve talked about, it’s perfect for things like kitchen chopping boards where you need a non-toxic finish.
Tung oil is thought by many to be the finest natural finish for wood, with its legendary performance and stunning end results. As the Tung Oil website says:
“In over 100 years of development of synthetic resins and varnishes, no one has developed a coating that surpasses the overall performance of natural tung oil.
Tung oil is a drying oil obtained by pressing the seed from the nut of the Tung tree (Vernicia fordii). As a drying oil, Tung oil dries upon exposure to air. The resulting coating is transparent, waterproof, and flexible, a property exploited in most of its applications, which include wood finishing and the composition of traditional oil paints, caulks, mortar and India ink. Tung oil is used on wooden toys as it is naturally non-toxic when dry and is not affected by mould like linseed oil. Tung oil is able to move and flex as wooden surfaces expand and contract with age and changing temperature.
The Chinese have utilised the properties of Tung oil for hundreds, if not thousands, of years for caulking and painting of their boats, treating leather and waterproofing paper and cloth.”
The Tung tree originated in central and southern China, concentrated around the Yangtse River, and it appears in the writings of Confucius from about 400 B.C.
You need to apply Tung oil using a special method called wet-on-wet burnishing, more complex and involved than many other oil application methods. Most amateurs find this process difficult. While you apply Tung oil just like linseed oil, you need to sand the surface after each application of oil and it usually takes at least 3-5 coats plus 2-3 days drying time in between each coat. If you’d like to attempt it, here’s an excellent video…
What is the difference between a wood oil and a varnish?
Oil is a natural product. Oils cure slowly and penetrate into the surface of the wood. Multiple coatings can be applied until the wood is unable to absorb any more. Additional coats can be applied if desired to create a surface build or coating of oil. Varnish is a synthetic product made by cooking a natural oil like linseed oil, Tung oil or even soya oil with a resin like polyurethane. It’s used to build up layers on the surface of the wood to create a plastic-like coating that gives a hard wearing, protective finish or seal to floors and other wooden surfaces.
Can I varnish over wood oil?
In short, the answer is ‘No’. Because most modern varnishes are water-based, they are generally not compatible with oiled surfaces. The easy way to think of this is having water and oil in a frying pan – try to mix them and they separate. If a water-based varnish is applied on top of an oiled surface, it’s highly likely that it will not bond with the wood and will therefore peel off very quickly. Some types of varnish can be applied over an oiled surface but the process is difficult and needs specific primers and varnishes to achieve this.
The easiest approach to varnishing a previously oiled floor is to use a floor sander to remove the surface of the wood, including the wood oil. Wood oils never penetrate more than a couple of microns into the surface of the timber so it won’t require too much sanding to get back to clean, bare wood.
What is the best oil for Oak furniture?
- Oiling Oak worktops provides the best finish. It adds more depth and character than varnishes and lacquers, is easy to work with, and provides a water-resistant finish.
- For other interior Oak, an Oak furniture oil like Danish oil is a popular choice for preventing stains and cracking and providing a beautiful, lustrous finish.
- Danish oil makes an excellent wood floor oil, but modern proprietary products are sometimes easier to work with. If you’d like advice from the experts, feel free to call us.
- A common question is ‘What is the best outdoor furniture oil?’ We recommend using a high quality Teak oil or other specialist garden furniture oil to protect wooden garden furniture.
Can I use olive oil on wood furniture?
Yes, you can. Use a cloth to work the oil into the wood grain, rubbing back and forth. When the wood has absorbed the oil, leave it for ten minutes then wipe the excess off with a clean cloth. Untreated wood tends to take 2-3 coats, but if you’re unsure just stop when the wood stops absorbing the oil.
Although vegetable and other natural oils can be used, we would always recommend using a dedicated furniture oil as these contain a specially formulated blend of oils and resins, which provide additional durability and wear resistance. A great wood oil that can be used on most types of wooden furniture is clear Osmo Polyx Oil, or if additional colour of a stain is required, we recommend Osmo Polyx Oil Tints.
What is the difference between decking oil, decking preservative, decking paint and decking stain?
- Decking oil penetrates into the surface of the wood, protecting it from cracking splitting and warping, it also helps to repel rain and moisture. Available in clear and coloured variants.
- Decking stains are usually a coloured varnish-like coating that sit on top of the wood to provide colour and protection.
- Decking preservative is usually a spirit-based preserver that penetrates into the wood to protect against mould, algae, dry rot and insect attack, depending on the product you’re using. Many spirit-based wood preservatives are available in a range of colours that can be over-coated with a clear decking oil.
- Decking paint sits on the surface of the wood and helps keep moisture out. Decking paints are very similar to decking stains in that the paint produces a surface coating that sits on top of the decking timber.
Is there a substitute for linseed oil on a cricket bat?
Yes, but most cricket experts believe you can’t beat raw linseed oil. For a new bat with no finish, apply at least two coats of raw linseed oil to the front, back, edges and toe, using a soft rag. The face and edges of the bat should be rubbed down with fine sandpaper every 3-4 weeks during the cricket season and a light coat of linseed oil re-applied. When it has sunk in, wipe off the excess then buff your bat to a sheen using a clean cloth.
How do I refinish olive wood bowls?
If you’re using the bowls to store or present food, never use a vegetable oil. All you’ll get is a horrible smelly, sticky finish. Use a colourless, odour-free, light mineral oil instead, a safe and popular by-product of petroleum.
Tips for using wood oils safely and effectively
- If you want to stain the wood before you oil it, use a water-based stain. If you use an oil-based stain, it’ll block the pores in the wood and prevent the oil from doing its job properly.
- Never, ever leave an oily cloth rolled up. It can easily generate heat and catch fire. Dry it flat outdoors before storing it or chucking it in the bin.
Need help with choosing the right wood oil?
Do you have any questions about interior or exterior wood oils? We’ll be more than happy to answer them. Just get in touch. Alternatively, visit our FAQ page for any and all wood oil-related queries.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your decking project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
I have just purchased a weathered acacia table. and it has arrived very pale as if it has been white washed.. they have assured me it hasn’t. But is there a finishing oil I can use to darken it. they have said it will darken with age..
Please can you help me as I am so disappointed with the result. I am not sure if they are
very helpful, also it was quite expensive.
Hello Jane,
If the wood has no product currently on it then you can apply an oil, a clear oil will darken the wood and you can get an idea of how much by wiping a damp cloth over the surface. A clear oil may well be enough to get the look that you want. Can you tell me if the table is for internal or external use and I will be able to recommend a finishing product that you can use.
If you think the clear oil will not darken enough then you could consider a coloured oil to darken. Feel free to email me with a photo if that will help to wood@finishes.direct
Kind Regards Samantha
Hello and thank you for this informative article! Can you recommend the best finish for wooden coasters? They have to be heat- and waterproof and finished in only two days.
Hello Arina,
We have some good products for finishing coasters and you could have a look at Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish. It is a water repellent and heat resistant varnish. We have carried out many tests with this product for liquid resistance and durability and it stands up well against most things as long as it is applied correctly. It has a quick drying time although a full cure is around 72 hours plus depending on conditions and temperature. Test areas are always recommended and if you have any further questions please feel free to let me know.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Please help we have an old farmhouse in France with a lot of oak beams showing all very old bur untreated which oil would it be best to use
Many thanks for your help
Hello Ted,
Thank you for your inquiry, we often recommend Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish for beams as they need little in the way of durability and more nourishment and many people like a natural look and feel to the beams.
If you need something a bit more durable than a wax you could have a look at a Hard Wax Oil which will soak in to the surface of the wood and is easy to keep clean and maintain over time, requiring far less top ups than a wax may do. If you have a look at the products and of course feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Samantha.
Hello Sam,
Excellent blog, apologies if you have already covered this one:
Indoor kitchen table, made from reclaimed teak, untreated, has quite a deep grain. The seller sold me a tin of Briwax to put on it, however I have read complaints that water lifts the briwax and leaves ring marks on the table.
What should I use to best protect this wooden table top? I want a finish as close as possible to the raw wood, not shiney, maybe a bit darker if necessary. But critically I want to be able to use it without fear of marking the table.
I read your how to guide at the top of this page, Tung oil seems to be the best option but difficult to apply, so perhaps Teak oil would be best?
Thanks
Hello Luke,
Thank you for your inquiry. I would recommend taking a look at the Osmo Extra Thin. It’s a durable hard wax oil that gives great protection and makes the wood water repellent. It is a thinner oil than standard, which is ideal for dense woods such as teak that will only absorb a very small amount due to its tight grain.
I would recommend a test area first to ensure that you like the finish that will be achieved, as this will darken the wood slightly. This product is available in sample sizes also. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi,
I have just acquired a hard wood garden bench (oak/elm) which hasn’t been treated in any way. Having read lots of posts and viewed websites I am confused as to whether teak oil or danish oil is the way to go.
I understand it’s all about keeping the wood ‘moist’ (!) / lubricated and that frequent coatings is the best way to look after it however which oil to use and how often is the question ?
Also something else I read suggested that once a year it’s a good idea to sand it all back and start again.
Any light you can shed on this would be most appreciated. I should say that because of space the bench will be in all weathers all year round.
Thank you
Hello Alwyn,
Thank you for your inquiry. Teak Oil or Danish Oil would both be suitable for your project and would need regular top ups through the year to maintain there protective benefits. I would not think you will need to remove yearly, more every few years to retreat.
Alternatively you could have a look at Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra which is much more durable than the other two and requires maintenance coats perhaps once a year or two, rather than every six months. And again this would not need removing, simply a clean and top up coat when you feel the wood needs it.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know.
All the Best Sam.
Hi
We’ve just recently purchased the following oak table from John Lewis
What would you recommend for this? My father-in-law has suggested Danish oil, but I have also been recommended that Osmo would be a good bet?
Thanks in advance.
Hello Mat,
The Polyx Oil will give a more durable finish than a Danish Oil for sure and will require less frequent maintenance coats.
A test area should be done, first to ensure that there are no compatibility issues with the current treatment, and secondly to check that the wood is not saturated and will accept more. And also to ensure that you will like the finish to be achieved.
This is not to say that the Danish Oil would not be suitable for your project because it certainly would and is a traditional treatment for wood finishing.
I hope that helps and please do let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind regards Sam.
hi
i have a table that has fiddes stripped pine supreme wax on it
i love the look, but the protection against stains. water etc is terrible
it there anything i can use as a protective layer over the top that will keep the look?
if i use something like osmo poylx do i need to sand it right back to the wood (which is a much lighter colour than the wax)
many thanks
chris
Hello Christopher,
Wax is great for giving a beautiful finish, but not so great on the protection levels. Osmo Polyx Oil is a much more durable product that still leaves the wood looking and feeling natural. It does however require application to bare wood as it needs to penetrate into the surface and the wax will prevent or very much slow this process down.
We also have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel with tips about application. And if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi there, I hope you can help me. I am looking to buy a large antique cherrywood dining table that has been varnished. Unfortunately, I’m not keen on the high gloss look of varnish. Would it be possible to remove the varnish and oil the furniture instead? If so, can you recommend the best oil for the job? I would prefer the wood to look slightly darker too, if possible.
Thank you in advance, Kelly
Hello Kelly,
Thank you for your inquiry. It would be possible for you to remove the varnish with a product, such as the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover from Barrettine. It is a gel like substance that you can apply and leave for around 5 minutes. The varnish will bubble up to be scrapped off with a Filler Knife you should always try a test area first to ensure that it will work for your project.
Once all the varnish is removed, you can give a light sand and clean ready for application of an oil. A clear oil such as Holzol Top Oil is a good option. Clear oils will darken the wood slightly and you can get an idea of how much by wiping a damp (not wet) cloth over the surface of the bare wood.
If this is not dark enough then you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints range. If you have a look at the products recommended and let me know if you have any further questions. Always try a test area first.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi
I’ve made a drawer cabinet for cutlery and want to know the best way to protect the wood. I want a very natural look, like its not treated at all if possible. The exterior is oak, the drawers are ash with plywood inserts. The cutlery will only touch the plywood. Does the plywood treatment need to be ‘food-safe’. I planned to use teak oil but not sure if it suitable for both the exterior and drawers. Any advice would be great
Thanks
Hello Johanna,
A Hard Wax Oil is a good option. It is food safe and gives the wood great protection, whilst leaving it looking and feeling very natural. The clear will darken the wood slightly and it is advised to carry out a test area first to ensure that you will like the finish achieved.
And the link above will take you the extra thin oil that would be suitable for harder woods such as Oak and I would expect the 125 ml tin will cover approximately one and half to two meters squared. If you have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
We have some hard wood gates that seem to have a coating that can peel off, hence water is seeping in, I would like to remove this coating and just stain and oil them to make it easier in maintaining in future years without having to go to an enormous amount of work.
Hello Lesley,
As it is peeling and flaking it could be either a paint or a varnish and for stripping this you could consider Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover. It’s a fast acting stripper that makes the treatment bubble up for scrapping off with a Mako Filler Knife.
Once you are back to bare wood then I would recommend a good quality preservative such as Osmo WR Base Coat and then a top coat of the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra two thin coats will give great protection. And can be topped up annually or when you feel the wood needs it. If you have any further questions please do let me know.
Kind regards Sam.
We have ordered an unfinished oak worktop. What oil is best to protect it and also darken the colour too? (We have dark wood floors and didn’t want oak to look too orange in comparison) . Thanks.
Hello Liz,
You could have a look at the Holzol Worktop Oil it is a clear oil that will protect the wood and give good water repellency. It will darken the wood slightly for you and I would recommend a test area first to ensure that you are getting the finish that you want.
If you have a read up on the product and we have a helpful video on worktops on our YouTube Channel and if you have any further questions please do let me know.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hello,
My husband made and installed very solid iroko window frames in our house about 30 years ago, as well as fencing.They haven’t had much maintenance but the top halves of the window frames are still brown. The bottoms have greyed, along with the fencing. I’ve started sanding back the woodwork and it’s coming up well, but some parts of the window mouldings are looking worn and I’m worried the wood will deteriorate further. I don’t mind a grey finish but am thinking of using pure tung oil as protection. Temperatures range from -7 to +30 in my area, with a lot of sun. Do you think tung will do the job?
Hello Sue,
Yes the Tung Oil would be ideal for your project it allows the wood to be flexible in changing temperatures and climates and will help to keep the wood water repellent. Water ingress is the biggest problem when it comes to wood and so regular maintenance will help to prevent damage. There is very little UV protection in this oil however so wood may continue to silver a little over time.
Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Sam.
We just build pine book shelves. I bought tung oil and put it in the side. It looks the same though it probably gives protection. What will happen if we did not use tung or any other oil on the pine hook shelves? What is the worst thing that can happen? I am asking because we like how they look and smell raw without any oil. Thank you very much.
Hello Maria,
You may find over time, depending on the environment that they are in that there is some warping, although this could equally not happen, it would be the result of changes of temperature or moisture levels through the year. And the wood may mark easily with for example cup stains or moisture. Or finger prints can mark the wood also. These would be difficult to clean off and may need sanding or degreasing. Dust and dirt will potentially be difficult to clean off also, but not impossible, it can collect and accumulate in the grain also which could be slightly harder to clean off
So essentially all of the things that the oil protects from are what the wood would be susceptible to. Any of these changes, marks or stains however could be very minimal if at all based on how you use the shelves over time. Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi,
I have recently had some rimu board placed along the top of my bath which has a shower over it. The builder has finished the rimu board with Danish Oil. Firstly, will the oil protect the wood against everyday showers with hot water? Secondly, the wood has been nailed in place; if I go over it again (wood and nails) with the oil, will this keep it waterproof where the nails have entered the wood?
Thank you
Hello Adrienne,
It would be fair to say that most oils give a fair to good level of water repellency, but no product, even varnish is fully waterproof. So any standing water or excessive exposure to water can result in stains or marks. Refreshing the oil regularly will help maintain the durability and ensuring good coverage around nailed areas, but any exposed wood will get damaged by water penetration.
If you would like a more durable product, you could have a look at the Osmo Polyx Oil with a base coat of the Osmo Wood Protector, which will help prevent the wood getting brittle when exposed to differing temperatures and humidity’s. Do let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi Sam,
Found your very interesting website and thought it best to ask my questions here.
I have recently oiled with teak oil in a spray can an unknown hardwood bench from Morrison’s without realising I needed to use preservative first. I ran out of oil after one coat,couldn’t get any more locally but could get some decking oil which I hoped would go on top ok using a brush or rag (cannot find out what oil decking oil consists of?) But wanted to ask you if it is too late to apply something like the Barretine preservative BETWEEN coats for extra protection? Thanks, Janet
Hello Janet,
Thank you for your inquiry, unfortunately you can not apply a preservative over the oil as the oil will prevent penetration. You can wait for a couple of years for the oil to wear away and then lightly sand to remove any left over, and then treat with the preservative. Or if you really want to apply the preservative then sand back now and start again. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
Afternoon
I have recently purchased a house with hardwood windows that are 40years old
I will be painting them grey externally with a opaque osmo product.
Internally I have rubbed them back to bear wood and was going to use a an osmo oil which is clear to show the wood off. However the oils such as osmo say for external use only? Could you recommend the best oil for my windows internally.
Also should I have any concerns about the bathroom area that has excessive condensation build up when using an oil?
Kind regards
Peter
Hello Peter,
An interior oil from Osmo is the Polyx Oil. This is a clear oil that will protect and enhance the look of the wood, darkening it slightly. It is available in sample sizes and I would recommend a test area first.
For the bathroom I would also recommend a first coat of the Osmo Wood Protector, which will prevent the wood from going brittle over time. Condensation can cause issues if the wood is not maintained well but the Osmo ranges are very good protective treatments. Have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any questions.
All the Best Sam.
Hi, I,m looking to treat the first two or thee boards of our oak floor next to the front door and the threshold, with something that will protect it more than the matte oil which is currently on it (I’m sorry, I don’t know exactly what it has been treated with). It has become slightly water damaged over the course of the year the floor has been down, because of heavy traffic and wet boots / pushchairs etc. If possible I would like to keep it as matte as possible, but don’t mind a slight sheen if necessary. Is there anything you can recommend? Thanks.
Hello Chris,
Hard Wax Oils are durable and hard wearing but will need topping up in areas such as doorways or high traffic areas sooner than others. The good thing about oils is that they are easy to patch repair and will blend well for situations such as yours.
A test area should be done first to check compatibility with your current oil and to ensure that you will get a finish that you like. The Hard Wax Oil is available in same sizes for you try, and please do let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hello
I’ve just had some renovation works in my house.
There was already dark walnut stained solid oak floors fitted downstairs and we had some caramel coloured oak hardwood installed upstairs.
Our decorators after cleaning washed the floor downstairs then applied teak oil.
The upstairs was new and not particularly dirty during the works but they real oiled it anyway.
It’s been 3 days and it remains sticky and has darkened the wood upstairs.
Can I ‘undo’ anything for the upstairs and how best to clean and polish the downstairs after they’ve teak oiled it ??? What can I do to stop the stickiness.
I feel really stupid that I just let them do whatever to my floor.
Hello Kez,
Really they should have carried out a test area first to ensure that they where using the right products for your stairs. It could be over application that is causing the long drying time or stickiness. You can try wiping over with some white spirits to remove the excess oil that is not drying.
The Oil is supposed to soak into the surface of the wood and as it is oak is likely to need a thin application. When oil remains tacky this is usually the result of it being unable to absorb due to over application or something on the wood that is preventing penetration. Try the white spirits and see how you get on. You can always come back to me if it doesn’t work and you need more advice.
Kind regards Sam.
I recently purchased 2 vintage Wegner wishbone chairs. They were previously oiled but not maintained by the owners. The joints where re-glued with epoxy and there were numerous water stains. All this to say that I decided to lightly sand them in order to remove the areas where epoxy had run and the areas with water spots. I had hoped to keep the patina and just oil them. Now that I’ve sanded them, I’m trying to determine what is the best oil to use. Teak, Lemon, Tung???? I’d like to keep the chairs as natural as possible and don’t mind if they develop a patina
Thanks for your help
Ryan
Hello Ryan,
Tung Oil is the oil that will change the wood the least. With a drying time of around 18 hours, it requires 3-5 coats and then regular maintenance, depending on use.
Alternatively, for a slightly more durable finish you could look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil, although like many oils this will darken the wood slightly. Test areas are essential not only to ensure you like the finish that you will achieve but also to check there is no adverse reaction to any previous treatment or that absorption is prevented. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know.
Kind regards Sam.
I have a pitch pine pew to preserve for outside use what is the best way to protect it .it lives in a very sunny quite wind position. Many thanks.peter.
Hello Peter,
Thank you for your inquiry, my first recommendation would be to use a Preservative from Osmo this will help prevent mould, mildew and rot. I recommend this one as it available in a smaller size tin, whereas many of our other are only in 5 Litre tins.
Then an Oil top coat to protect Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra for a clear finish or Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain for a coloured finish. Test areas are always advised and these products are available in sample sizes. If you have any other questions please do get back in touch.
Kind regards Sam.
Dear Sam,
I am restore a horse shaped child’s desk for a community auction later this year. It is a pine desk and the lid has warped. We were able to sand it down, restore moisture an used some weights to press it back down to straight. We left the weight on for about 24-30 hours but 12 hours after taking the weight off, the bow began to come back. Would tung oil help to keep the bow out? What else can we do?
Thank you much!
Hello Tiffany,
Sorry I am not sure that I can help you with this one. Oil will definitely help the wood, but not reduce the bow. You may be better asking advice from the many wood work forums on the net. Sorry I could not be of more help.
Good Luck Sam.
Dear Sam,
I have had a Danish teak dining table sanded and oiled using ordinary Osmo oil but I am concerned because if any small drops of oil or grease land on the table they seem to be penetrating the surface and staining it. We are trying to decide what to do and have had conflicting advice. Some people say to strip it back and use Osmo extra thin, others to use teak or danish oil and others to lacquer it. Please could you let me know what you would do.
Many thanks,
Pamela
Hello Pamela,
You have been recommended Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin because Teak is a hardwood with a tight grain that will absorb less oil. And so a thinner oil is more suited, however as long as the Osmo Polyx Oil has absorbed into the surface of the wood there should be no problems. The oil is water repellent and resists many liquids but if anything oil based is spilt it will start to absorb if not removed promptly. The good thing about the Polyx Oil is that it is easy to patch repair, simply sand back the area effected and re apply some oil, it will blend well.
Varnish / Lacquer will give more resistance to liquids, but even that can get marked by oils that are not wiped up promptly. All that said both products dry hard and as look as they are applied correctly then the issue of stains and marks are likely to be very limited if at all. I hope that sets your mind at rest and if you have any other questions please do let me know.
All the Best Sam.
Hi there
We have cedar fences which have lost their lovely natural colour. The sun has bleached them I’m guessing. They are not grey yet as only been up for 6 months. How do I get the lovely colour back and protect the wood? We’ve tried stains but they come out a horrible orange colour. Would Danish oil be any good? All the best Katie
Hello Katie,
You may find that a clear oil is all you need to bring back the colour of the wood. Clear oils will enhance the natural colour and grain of the wood. You could try wiping with a damp cloth as this will give an indication of what a clear oil will achieve. The problem with clear oil however is that the UV Protection is limited and regular top ups are required to prevent the natural silvering of the wood.
I would recommend Manns Premier UV Decking Oil as a good option if the wet test works. Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions.
All the Best Sam.
Sorry, another question too.
Do the clear versions of the decking oils still have the same UV resistance as the tinted versions?
Regards,
Haydn
Hi Sam, thanls for the reply. However, I did ask a second question earlier:
I have a teak table and chairs to re-finish outside. In the past I’ve used teak oil, but was thinking of using something with UV filters this time, as I prefer the orange teak look to the silvered, weathered look. Which out of all the oils you do is most water resistant and has the highest UV and wear resistance?
regards,
Haydn
I have cedar installed on the ceiling of my shower, and as trim around the windows. The shower is new and the wood is still raw. I have read that boiled linseed oil is what I should use to protect the wood from water damage. I have several questions:
1. Do you agree about the linseed oil or is there another product I should use. I am in the US and trying to get the project wrapped up soon.
2. How many coats of oil do I need to anticipate applying for the best protection?
Thank you for any guidance!
Hello Jessica,
Here at WFD we would recommend the use of the Osmo Wood Protector to go on first. This will help to keep the wood flexible and nourished through the varying temperature and humidity changes. And then a coat of a Hard Wax Oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil for water repellency. Two thin coats of this would be enough and then regular maintenance. Unfortunately we do not deliver to the States but I do believe that Osmo have some suppliers out there.
All the Best Sam.
Having used up my 500ml bottle of Barrettine teak oil halfway through oiling my oak garden furniture, I ordered the 2 litre bottle from yourselves.
Unlike the smaller bottle this one states ‘Not recommended for use on oak’.
Have I damaged the wood ?
Why not recommended ?
Hello Ron,
Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I have just been and checked both bottles and they do both state ‘Not recommended for use on Oak’ it is only Barrettine that state this as other brands such as Ronseal are happy for the product to be used on Oak. The reason that Barrettine do not advise use on Oak is to do with the Tannins in oak when mixed with some oils, can cause blackening of the wood. However in the last 10 years WFD has traded we have only heard of this happening once.
It would also be fair to say that if the Oak is older and more weathered it is less likely to result in any black patches than fresh new or green oak would. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get back in touch.
Kind regards Sam.
I’m looking to apply some oil over the top of the black Ronseal Total Wood Preserver I bought from you and was wondering if you could recomend something suiutable? It’s going on a log store and will be outside (obviously). Cheaper option would pre preferable as it’s large and I fear that Osmo etc. would be prohibitive.
Also, I have a teak table and chairs to re-finish outside. In the past I’ve used teak oil, but was thinking of using something with UV filters this time, as I prefer the orange teak look to the silvered, weathered look. Which out of all the oils you do is most water resistant and has the highest UV and wear resistance?
Thanks.
Hello Haydn,
The best option would be to apply a black oil over the top. I would recommend the Osmo Country Colour in Charcoal. Although some what pricey the Osmo needs to be applied very thinly and so is really quite cost effective as a little goes a long way. Applying an opaque black finish such as this will also greatly improve the UV resistance. And it just requires a top up coat when you feel that the wood needs it.
Alternatively, you can apply a clear oil over the top without losing the black effect finish that you have achieved with the Ronseal Total Wood Preserver and any clear Decking Oil with UV Filters would be suitable. Manns Premier UV Decking Oil is a popular choice, as is Ronseal Decking Oil.
I hope this helps and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Sam.
Hi… I’ve just bought a van which has been ply lined. I would like to protect it. I carry pallets which are slid in as well wooden furniture. My last van had some kind of dark coating that protected it but I don’t know if it was stain or varnish or both? Do you know what would be best to protect the ply on the floor.
Hello John,
You could have a look at the Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish which is an easy to apply hard wearing and durable finish. And with a range of colours you can get a dark or light finish to the interior of your van. I hope that helps and please do let me know if you have any other questions.
Kind regards Sam.
I am replacing the wood slats in an outdoor park bench. I am using White oak. What kind of oil would I use to best protect from the weather and UV.
Hello James,
I would first recommend a Preservative which will protect against mould, mildew and rot and then any of the decking oils with UV Filters in, such as Manns Premier UV Decking Oil or Ronseal Decking Oil.
These Oils will soak into the surface of the wood and is easy to patch repair and to maintain over time. Always try a test area first and if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to let me know.
All the Best Ben.
Hello,
What a great find this website has been and I’ve gleaned a lot if useful information. I’m looking for some advice on how best to treat external Iroko staircases as I’ve got a lot of differing opinions.
I’d like to keep and enhance the natural look and thought that Danish oil would be the best option, however this seems to be fairly maintenance intensive. Being external I’m keen to avoid making them slippery in wet weather and would ideally like to keep maintenance to a minimum.
Any advice would be very gratefully received.
Kind regards
Stuart
Hello Stuart,
Because you are looking to treat Iroko, which is a hard tropical wood, I would recommend Teak Oil. These are generally thinner than other exterior wood oils making them more suitable for exotic hard woods that have a tight grain. This would need regular maintenance due to the fact that there is no UV Protection in this product.
You could look at applying the Osmo Anti Slip Decking Oil if the wood will take this, test areas will show, both these products are available in sample sizes.
Although regular (annually or bi-annually) maintenance is needed with oil application it is easier to re oil than when varnish is used, because although a varnish will last longer it will eventually peel and flake and need removing in order to retreat.
I hope that helps and please let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Sam.
Hello, I have an oak dresser where some of the top coat (assume it’s varnish or poly) has been worn off from a perfume bottle that leaked onto the top. What is the best way to repair a small spot (ring) without sanding down the entire piece?
Hello Carol,
We have a blog about repairing a varnished floor and the principles will be the same. It is not as easy to repair an varnished surface as it is and oiled one, and it may not be completely invisible but have a read of this blog and you can decide from there.
And if you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hello,
I have oiled some oak skirting and was planning on varnishing as a finishing cost. But decided against it as I have read varnish is water based and shouldn’t be mixed with oil.
Could I protect the oil by waxing instead of varnishing or should I just leave the oiled skirting and re-oil every 6 months.
Hello Harris,
No you can not apply varnish over an oil. Can you tell me which type/brand of oil you have used and I will be able to advice you further.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi,
I’m about to build a dining table out of American oak. I would prefer an oiled finish.
And was wondering if I should use boiled linseed oil or the osmo polix oil?
Thanks nick
Hello Nick,
The Osmo Polyx Oil will give a better level of protection and water repellency than a linseed oil. It will also have a quicker drying time and require less coats. The Polyx is available in sample sizes and I would always recommend a test area first. Please feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Sam.
Hello sam, I have 3 oak veneer doors that I have just been fitted and are brand new I have been told to use danish oil on just want to know if this is the right advice .thanks in advance , dave
Hello Dave,
As long as there are no instructions from the manufacturers that state you should not use oils, then a Danish Oil would be an ideal product to use on you doors. Let me know if you have any further questions and don’t forget to do a test area first.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi there
I have had oak unfinished work tops made into a large vanity shelf/ unit for my bathroom on which a sink will sit on top. Could you please advise of treatments to use to protect the wood and waterproof it as much as possible. From reading previous replies I am thinking a preservative then a wax oil? I would like the wood to be as natural as possible with a slight sheen.
Many thanks
Paula
Hello Paula,
This is a common question and I nearly always recommend the Osmo Wood Protector first, as this will help to keep the wood flexible and nourished in the different temperature and humidity changes that occur in a bathroom.
As a top coat product I would recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil the clear oil will protect and enhance the natural finish of the wood, creating a water repellent surface that is easy to clean and maintain. Always try a test area first and if you have any further questions please feel free to get in touch.
Kind regards Sam.
hi
i am building an outdoor run for a small animal from sanded down reclaimed wood, the base of which will be about 1ft underground to allow some burrowing
i have already coated the base with 2 coats “universal wood care oil” from aldi, without having done proper research first
is there anything i can do now to make this survive better underground/outside or do i need to start from scratch with new wood and do it properly with a preservative and oil or water-based paint??
thanks
Hello,
For the best protection I would always recommend applying a good Preservative first this will protect from mould, mildew and rot. And then a top coat products such as Decking Oil will give good UV protection and water repellency.
Both products advised are not suitable around animals during the application process but once dried they are animal safe. If you have any further questions please do let me know – Sam
Hi, We have purchase a house that has oak windows and they have been painted. We recently dry ice blasted one inside and like the result. We now need a finish but confused on what would be best. the area we are treating will be inside and the windows have original lead lights. would prefer a lighter finish
thank you in advance.
ray
.
Hello Ray,
Thank you for your inquiry, would you be able to tell me if the cleaning process you have used has removed all previous products from the wood and you are looking to treat bare wood? It may be easier if you where to send me some photos of the areas that you would like to treat, lightening wood can be difficult but I would be happy to have a look and see if there is anything suitable that I could recommend. You can send details to wood@finishes.direct FAO Sam.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi,
We have original 1960s teak staircases which we are planning to restore. I’m not sure but I think there is a small amount of Matt varnish left currently on the wood. Is sanding the best way to remove this prior to refinishing? And could you advise what would be best to use to refinish the wood following this? We would like to use an oil but unsure what type would be best.
Many thanks!
Hello Johanna,
Thank you for your inquiry, the remove any stubborn varnish you could have a look at the Peelaway. It is a great stripper for old and new paints and varnishes but test areas are strongly recommended to ensure there are no adverse reactions.
Once you are back to bare wood then you could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin as this is designed for hardwoods such as Teak. It will give what we call the wet look and you can get an idea of this by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the wood. The darkening that occurs from doing that will show you roughly how the oil will affect the wood. Please let me know if you have any other questions about products or application.
Kind regards Sam.
I have recently had a wooden loft ladder fitted and want to know what oil to use.
Hello,
The Osmo Polyx Oil is a hard-wearing and durable Oil that is easy to patch repair and maintain. It will keep the wood looking natural, but will slightly darken. I hope that helps and please let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Sam
Im upcycling teak furniture (interior not exterior furniture) and want to put life back into the wood.. its looking dull and scratched a bit (i like the scratches for character so not intending to fill these in/sand down). but i read that Teak Oil natural with no finish and no varnish is the best product to use. Would you agree? I want the natural wood and the natural colour of the teak – I don’t want to stain it with any colours. I was also warned never ever use a finish such as varnish, varathane, urethane or any finish that will seal the wood. Once done the benefit of using teak oil is forever gone. Is that true as well? There are a few makes from use/abuse (nt sure what caused them e.g. water damage or what) but you keep suggested a wipe with white spirit. would that apply to teak as well? Thanks!
Hello Terrie,
As a tropical Hard wood when Teak is new it often has a high content of its own natural oil in it and so it makes sense that applying and oil to it is the best option. Because it is a hardwood you do need an oil that is slightly thinner than a standard to ensure good absorption and I can recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin as this is specifically designed for tight grained wood such as Teak and Ipe.
It is fair to say that applying Varnish will prevent you from using an oil, but not forever. Removing the varnish back to bare wood will allow you to again re apply an oil to the wood. But applying varnish and then removing can be a messy business and although varnish is good for many things I would recommend using an oil for your Teak Furniture. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the Best Ben.
Hi Sam,
I am in the process of finishing some yellow pine floorboards for a customer. I was keen to use a hard wax oil but the customer wanted to use Danish oil, as he believed that was what had been used before.
Unfortunately, after sanding back and applying the first coat of Danish oil, my customer does not like the result as it has heavily emphasised the red grain. I am thinking of using a Fiddes American tinted hard wax oil to even out the colour difference but Fiddes tell me that I would need to sand back again. I was suppressed at this as both are spirit based products. Do you think I need to sand back or would a wipe over with white spirit do the job. Only one thin coat was applied.
I would be grateful for any advice.
Regards
Nick
Hello Nick,
Thank you for your inquiry, yes wiping over with White Spirit is the way to go. Generally speaking one oil will go over another without problem but as Fiddes have already adviced to remove the Danish Oil, you should go ahead with that plan.
I would also recommend a test area with the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints to ensure that you are getting the colour that you and your client want. Please let me know if there is anything else I can help with or you have any further questions.
All the best Sam.
Hi
We have bought a new unfinished rosewood table. We have used it a few times and it has developed a few oily marks from food spills/wiping. Do I need to clean it before I oil it and if so, how?
Thanks!
Gail
Hello Gail,
Yes I would advise to clean the stains before oiling. You could try wiping with White Spirit first and then lightly sanding any stains that are not removed with the white spirit. Try not to over sand in one particular area as this will close the grain. This in turn will make the oil appear patchy when applied.
For a hard wearing and protective oil you could look at the Osmo Polyx Oil which require two thin coats and is available in a range of sheen levels. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Ben.
Hi Sam,
I have a mid-century Elm and Beech wood Ercol table with an oiled finish that I am hoping to revive (minor stains from years of use). When wiping the table with a wet cloth, there is a brown stain coming off, although I am certain the table has not been stained (nor does it smell of tobacco). Could you advise on the best natural oil to use on it (soaking in / drying quickly to allow for it to be used again as quickly as possible) and what the stain might say about previously used products?
Many thanks,
Anna
Hello Anna,
It is difficult for me to say what the stain may be but if it is coming off with just water then, maybe a simple water based stain that just colours but offers no protection.
For an Oil to use you could have a look at the Osmo Polyx Oil. This has a drying time of approximately eight hours but if you can leave it a little longer before putting back into full use that would allow the oil to cure better. You should do a test area first to ensure that the Polyx Oil is compatible with any previous oil treatment or remove the previous oil with White Spirits and sanding before applying a fresh treatment. I hope that makes sense and if you have any further questions please don’t hesitate to let me know.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi , I need 6 oak veneer doors treated but want 2 leave them as natural as possible so no colour change , can u advise me please
Hello Dean,
The first thing for me to say is, are there any manufacturers instructions or stickers on the doors that tell you what you can not use? Many veneer doors say that you can not use oils or stains and to go ahead and using these products will invalidate any guarantee that you have.
Having said that, here at Wood Finishes Direct we believe that oils do not have a negative effect on veneers and so we recommend them, but it is at your risk should you go ahead. So that said I would recommend the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural which is designed to leave the wood looking untreated and natural but still offering good protection. 2 thin coats is all that is required for application.
If you would like to avoid the Oils the the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is the alternative option and although it will darken slightly it will give a great finish that will enhance the beauty of the wood and protect it. I hope that helps and please let me know should you have any more questions.
All the best Ben.
Hi,
I have a walnut worktop in my kitchen, been in about 8 years now and it was treated throughout the years with Speedstone oil & wax based clear sealant (various veg oils, linseed oil etc with wax and parafin etc).
I’ve just sanded it back as it was wearing in places and so I have a smooth surface again but some areas are clearly more like the original unprotected wood with others clearly still having the Speedstone protection on. I’ve run out of the Speedstone & can’t find it on sale anywhere now!
Will a few coats of Danish oil over the top now do the trick? (I have the Danish oil & cloth already) I wasn’t 100% sure & don’t want to ruin the surface or have to re-sand it all for a second time.
Thanks in advance.
Hello Adam,
Danish Oil is suitable for worktops. The best thing to do is to a small test area to see what it makes your wood look like. If you don’t like it you can remove quite easily with some White Spirit. There is also a another product that you might consider looking at Manns Premier Top Oil. This is a more durable product that only requires 2 thin coats and will not need refreshing as often as Danish Oil.Please let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Sam.
Thanks! 🙂
Hi Sam
We have just had a solid light oak stair fitted and I am wondering which oil would be best to treat it with. Keeping the treads bare so don’t want to varnish but have children and want to protect the wood and obviously bring out the best in the lovely wood. What would you recommend? Danish? Teak?…
Thanks. Julie
Hello Julie,
To keep the wood looking Natural but protected take a look at these two products Osmo Polyx Oil and Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
Both these products will protect the wood and are easy to patch repair should damage or stains occur. The Polyx Oil Clear with slightly darken the wood and enhance the grain, wiping a damp cloth across the surface will give you an idea of how this will look. And the Raw Polyx Oil is designed to avoid this darkening effect and leave the wood as natural as possible. Both are also available in sample sizes and I strongly recommend test areas first.
They are both more durable than some of the traditional oils such as Danish or Teak and will last longer with fewer coats required, let me know if you have any further questions or if I can help with anything – Sam.
Hello,
We just bought a brand new Eucalyptus hardwood outdoor furniture set of tables and chairs. It says it has a natural timber oil finish.
Do we need to oil this again before we start using this ?
Eventually we will need to re oil but wondered if we could just apply Outdoor Furniture Oil over it without prior sanding. Can we just clean the wood and apply the new oil ?
Thank you v. much
Hello Albert,
Eucalyptus has a naturally high oil content, and so adding more oil may not be an option or a necessity. You can do a small test, and that is to put a couple of small drops of oil on an inconspicuous area of the furniture for around an hour and see how it reacts. If it remains unmoved then the wood is already saturated and will not accept any more, if the oil has moved slightly (spread around the edges) then there is some room for more oil but very minimal and of course if it soaks in quite easily then you can apply another coat of oil with no problems.
When you are at a point where you can add more oil for protection then you could have a look at Garden Furniture Teak Oil from Cuprinol which offers protection and nourishment for your tropical wood. Or in a handy spray bottle there is Barrettine Teak Oil Spray which is also ideal for your hardwood furniture. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hello
I have oak window frames with steel crittal windows. I will be replacing all the old steel windows with new double glazed units. The oak frames were previously stained dark brown externally and have now been sanded back to bare oak. Before we install the new windows we need to finish the oak frames. I want them to end up with a natural silver appearance and am thinking of applying clear Barrettine wood preserver and then an oil. What would you recommend?
Regards
Philip
Hello Philip,
The Barrettine Premier Wood Protective Treatment is a good choice to start with and then an Oil for the top coat. As you are looking to let the wood go naturally silver you will need an oil that doesn’t have UV protection in it so I would recommend the Teak Oil, or alternative wood oil that doesn’t contain any UV filters. We always love to see photos of our customers project so if you have time to send some in that would be great – All the Best Sam.