Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing Oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A little history of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in The UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age which is typically aged 20. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’ although it doesn’t quite have the same ring does it?
Treating Oak wood
With regards to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straight forward. These are the necessary considerations: –
- When water penetrates oak it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The Sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of: –
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection oil 420 extra
Osmo 420 extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3-5 coats of high quality Tung Oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing then scrub with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew C leaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients).
Finished Oak 
Unfinished Oak
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior Oak. These products include: –
- If an oiled finish is preferred then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter) then the colour is kept very natural indeed, it’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its’ colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe and can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000 years old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish Oak contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations. Alternatively, see our FAQ page which covers many of our most commonly asked questions about working with oak.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
Which products can be sprayed on decking.
Hi,
I have an untreated oak dining table that has a single panel of much darker wood in the centre (it is solid oak but built with several parts). Unfortunately it looks unnatural as its the entire cut panel that is a different shade. What would be the easiest way to lighten this darker patch a few shades to the colour of the surrounding wood? White wax?
Thanks
Hello Rob,
Lightening wood, whilst not impossible is a difficult thing to do and we don’t have a product that would work effectively for this purpose. It would be easier to darken the surrounding wood to match the out of place piece. You could look at the Manns Classic Oak Stain for this and then top coat of Osmo Polyx Oil I am sorry I could not be of more help.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hello Sam,
Have recently striped the 300 yr old painted beams, above the Windows, on the exterior of our home. The beams are sound and hard, but should I treat them ( feed).
I don’t mind them silvering over time, just don’t wish to cause any damage to them!
Hello Mark,
The first thing I would recommend is a wood preservative treatment to give the wood protection from Mould, Mildew and Rot. You can use use a wood preservative as a stand alone treatment but they tend to not offer much weatherproof protection and will need topping up every year or 2 depending on how much weathering it receives in terms of wind, rain and sun.
But for the best protection from water ingress applying an oil such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra over the wood preserver when dry is advised. This product goes a long way and will help to retain the natural colour of the wood for longer with its UV filters which act as a sun tan cream for the wood. An alternative is Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment. This is available in 5ltr tins so better for bigger jobs. This product does not contain UV filters so whilst it will help to keep the wood supple and weather resistant, it will not delay the onset of the greying process. I hope this helps and please do let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi Bob,
The best option if you can is to keep it covered. If this is not viable then warm water, with out any detergents. Some detergents are strong enough the cause damage to the wood or cause a patchy effect when applying the oil. When you do come to treat it, you can wipe down with some Meths and ensure wood is dry before application. Any marks or stains that don’t wash out may need to be lightly sanded.
We always like to see our customers projects so if you would like to send some photos in to share that would be great, you can send them to wood@finishes.direct
Kind Regards Sam.
That’s great, thanks Sam.
Any tips on cleaning the unprotected oak in the meantime?
Hi Sam,
Fantastic information and advice on this page!
We have installed a lovely American oak staircase in our house and having read your page are looking at using Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural to protect it.
At the moment we have been advised by the joiner who installed it to leave it untreated for a few months to make sure it has fully acclimatised, as it was in the house during some of the building works (plenty of moisture around with plastering, but not directly near the stairs which were loosely covered) and then spent a couple of weeks with the treads wrapped in protective plastic. The works were completed a couple of weeks ago and the house is dry and warm.
We are getting conflicting advice from our builder who is concerned that, left unprotected, black marks are likely to appear from skin contact which will be difficult to get out. There are already some dirty marks which don’t come out easily with a slightly damp microfibre cloth.
What is your view on this? Are we safe to protect the stairs now? And what is the best way to clean the unprotected stairs?
Thanks,
Bob
Hello Bob,
You will be fine to go ahead and treat the stairs now with the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural as it soaks into the surface of the wood and will flex and move with any movement that may occur in the wood, and so will not peel or flake. Just ensure the stairs and clean and dry before application and then 2 thin coats will give good protection. Please don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any other questions.
All the Best Sam.
Hi there,
I’m looking for an oil for a LIDGATE EXTENDING DINING TABLE I’ve just bought from Barker and Stonehouse,
I’d prefer for it to keep it’s current colour, as it matches well with oak veneered doors we have.
Please could you suggest an oil for me to buy and advise how many coats and how often they should be applied?
Many thanks
Hello Dave,
Thank you for your inquiry, I have had a look at the table and can see from the specifications that the table already has an oil product on there which should be offering good protection already.
If you wish to top this up I would recommend trying the Osmo Polyx Oil but you should do a test area first. This is to ensure compatibility between the previous and the new oil but also to see if the wood will absorb any more oil of if it is fully saturated. With this particular oil you need to apply thinly and depending on use of the table you can top up 1 a year or when required. Please let me know if you have any further questions – Sam.
Hi there. We are installing a white American oak staircase. It is going to be polyurethaned Along with the flooring it sits upon. What I am wanting to know is should we seal the underside of it, which will be open but not seen. Cheers Karen
Hello Karen,
Thank you for your inquiry, I would recommend application to the underside if it is open. It is not an absolute essential if no contact is to be made in anyway to the wood but temperature changes and changes in moisture levels that naturally occur over the seasons and years may have an effect on unprotected wood, subtle to start with but over a longer period that extra protection will extend the life and condition of your new stairs, so worth investing in the that extra protection I think. Please me know if you have any further questions and we would love to see some photos of the project.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hello,
I’ve bought essentially a large breakfast bar 2m x 1m x 40mm which I plan to use as a table top for an office desk. I’d like it to have a light finish rather than the darker orangy finishes
Would you be able to suggest the best type of finish for this purpose?
Thanks!
Warren
Hello Warren,
Thank you for the inquiry, the colour that you can achieve is very much dependent on the original colour of the wood. And what you can apply will depend on if you are treating bare wood or if there is already a finish on there.
If you are to be treating bare wood then you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil range. This product is available in clear and coloured formulations with Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints that colour and protect in one with just 2 thin coats. All of the Hard Wax Oils are available in sample sizes so that you can carry out test areas. I hope that helps and please let me know if there is any thing else you would like to know.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi I have a solid oak piece that i am using over a fireplace where there is a stove. It is approx a year and half matured and i want to sand it off a little first just to get rid of the dirt etc that is on it from storage and apply an oil or something to keep its natural look with no darkening or gloss. Can you please advise what i should do and use. It was recommended to me to use linseed oil or decking oil. What do you think? P.S i live in ireland so im hoping to be able to buy the product here.
Kind Regards
Julie
Hello Julie,
You could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural from Fiddes, this is designed to leave the wood looking untreated but still offering a hard wearing protective treatment. Other oils may darken the wood slightly on application.
Kind regards Sam.
Hello
I have oak doors,a oak kitchen, skirting boards and oak flooring in the bedrooms, it was stained about 6 months ago, its started to look a little dull, I don’t want to use spray polish, is there anything you can recommend please?
Kathryn
Hello Kathryn,
Could you tell me what the wood was stained with originally ? Generally speaking a Wax is a great product for bringing your wood back to life and will go on top of Varnish or oil finishes but it can make floors a little on the slippy side. I would prefer to know what product is currently on the wood before saying for sure what would be best – Sam
I’ve just sanded an 150 year old oak parquet floor in my home. It has come up beautifully compared to the original dark warn finish. I’d like to had a hard wearing gloss finish not too dark. I’d like to use a yacht varnish as this gives maximum strength. Is there any reason why I should not use this finish for internal use?
Hello Jonathon,
I would not be able to recommend our Yacht Varnish as this is for external use only and although many of our customers have used it for internal floors, I can recommend an alternative. Dulux Trade Diamond Glaze is a water based, low odour, extremely durable varnish that would be ideal for your floor. It comes in a Gloss finish and requires 2-3 coats. We also have some very good floor varnishes from Manns and Bona that are worth considering. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please let me know.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hey Sam,
I have new oak flooring with an oiled silver/grey finish, I would like to match this with brand new unfinished internal oak doors. Is there some way I can achieve this?
Kind regards
Jon
Hello Jon,
There are a number of products that you could have a look at that may create the effect you are looking for. The first is Osmo Oil Stain and is only recommended for use by professionals, it needs to be buffed into the wood and would need a top coat product such as Osmo Polyx Oil. The Osmo Wood Wax Finish Intensive also has a grey finish called Pebble. And finally the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints but look at the colours and not the names on this one. All of these come in samples sizes and need very thin application. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions do please let me know.
Kind regards Sam.
Hey Sam,
I just purchased an oak table that been sanded back and I was hoping to keep the natural look (as much as possible). However, the lady I purchased it off put a couple of coats of wax on it. Is it possible to re-sand and coat with he clear wax you have suggested in previous posts? or not that simple? Any chance of restoring back to natural shade I was hoping to maintain?
Thank you!
Caz
Hello Carolyn,
Worry not, you can remove the wax easily with Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover and some Woodleys Finishing Pads this should remove most or all of the wax, you may need to give a light sand at this point and then you can proceed with applying the finish of your choice. If you would like any advice on which product to use and the application of, then please let me know – Sam.
Hi Sam
I have some French oak riddling racks that I would like to seperate and hang on an outside exposed wall as a feature.I would like to keep their natural colour.I wouldn’t like the tannins from the rain ingress to stain the wall or concrete floor. A hard one but any ideas? Thanks Gary
Hi Gary,
If you sand back to bare wood then you could use Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative first as this will protect against mould, mildew and rot. And then a top coat of Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra will make the wood water repellent help reduce the fading from the sun. I would love to see what you do, you can send photos to us if you would like.
Kind regards Sam.
Also! Do you do small quantities? The container you linked to would probably treat a small ship and my door is quite small ????
Thanks again
Hilary
Hi Sam,
Many thanks that’s very helpful. When is the best time to do this? As the mirror door is outside I m guessing not now!
Should I Wait for the spring?
The door is stuck to the mirror door and is therefore tricky to know how best to deal with in order not to spoil the mirror board? I guess lots of masking tape!
Thanks again
Hilary
Hello there,
We’ve just bought a solid oak kitchen table from harveys that arrives this week. It needs treating. The missus wants it to remain the same colour as in the showroom, (or as close as possible). Have read many of the earlier replies above, so have an idea what I am need. However in my kitchen the table will be in front of double glazed patio doors, with a large velux window directly above. The doors face West and so we get many hours of sunshine streaming in during the summer. Are up rays going to be a concern? What would you recommend, much obliged.
Marc
Hello Marc,
Thank you for your inquiry, it is fair to say that excessive sunlight will have an effect on the wood, causing it to fade and silver. You have 2 options here and both will fulfill one issue but not the other. The first product is Osmo Top Oil Natural (3068) this will leave the wood well protected against everyday use and will leave the wood as unaltered as possible. There is very little UV protection from this product however and you may need to apply regular coats to avoid the fading.
The alternative would be to go for the Osmo UV Protection Oil (410) this will give you the UV protection that you require ( although regular top ups may be necessary for excessive sunlight ) but it will darken the wood slightly, wiping a damp cloth over the bare wood will give you an indication of how much darker it will be. I hope this will help and if you have any further questions please let me know.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi there
I have an external illusion mirror on a brick wall in the garden. It is made from oak and is screwed and glued to mirror board..
It has been finished with external Danish oil containing uv protection.
The mirror went up in August 2015 and I ve noticed along a couple of the cross pieces a black discolouration is noticeable.
How can I get it off?
How can I prevent it?
With best wishes
Hilary
Many thanks for your help
Hello Hilary,
Black staining or discolouration on exterior wood is more often than not a mould that is a result of water penetration. We have a product for this called Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner. This will remove the black staining in the wood and kill off any mould spores present in the wood. This product is not a stripping product so any wood oil around the effected area will need to be removed with white spirit prior to treating the wood. Once done the frame can be re-oiled with Danish Oil or other suitable exterior wood oil. We always recommend doing a test area before starting any project.
Ideally, the frame should be stripped of oil, treated with the Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner, then treated with Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative in clear to help prevent future mould growth. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Kind regards Sam.
Hello Sam
Thanks for your advice, I have put my order in today and will be pleased to let you have some photos of the results.
I’ve been keeping an eye out for your blog on children’s play structures, but not seen it yet. Please would you point me in the right direction, or if it isn’t finished yet, perhaps you would be good enough to send me a rough copy by email so that I can read your advice before I make a start on the construction.
All the best
Andu
We have a white oak double door and frame , it was varnished and needs stripping, what product would you recommend to remove the clear yacht varnish.?
-Ant
Hello Antony,
There are 2 products that you can have a look at, the first is Barrettine Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover which is designed to make the the varnish/paint bubble up so that you can scrap it off with a filler knife or scraper such as the Mako Filler Knife or Peelaway Easy Grip Stripping Knife. The alternative would be to use Peelaway 7 which is a poultice based system that is left on the surface for 24/48 hours and then removed once the paint has been dissolved.
Both these products are very good at varnish removal. I recommend doing a test area first with each to see which is most effective on the finish you have. If you have any further questions please let me know – Sam.
i have just installed a green oak fire surround it has a wax coating and looks great but just by being in the house it has already started cracking which is ok at the moment it gives it some character but I don’t want the cracks to expand into gapping creavaces when we use the log burner, a lot of your comments tell me to use an oil to prevent cracking is this safe to use with a fire surround
Hello Tony,
Cracks like this are usually caused because the wood has either becoming too dry or because of extreme temperature changes from hot to cold regularly. Although the wax will offer some protection, I would recommend removing it ( with White Spirits or a wax and polish remover ) and applying an oil such as Osmo Wood Protector. This will feed and nourish the wood and help to prevent the wood from drying out. And then apply a good quality wood oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil that will nourish and protect it. Both these products will be suitable to use on a Fire surround. Let me know if you have any other questions – Sam
HiSam, I am helping renovate a cottage that has 200yr old beams inside used for internal lintels and archways. This oak has obviously been outside for some time as it has aged beautifully. My question is, a lot of new oak ( big pieces) have been used alongside the old oak inside, what can I put on the new oak to make it look aged like the existing or to take some of the newness out? I look forward to your reply Dave
Hello Dave,
Matching New wood to Old wood can be as difficult as colour matching I’m afraid but you could have a look at the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish as there are some colours in this range.
Or it is worth having a look at the Manns Classic Oak Stain or even the Manns Classic Pine Wood Stain to see if there is a colour in there that will give the wood an aged look. With both these stains you can intermix to change colours and dilute with water to lighten. Multiple layers applied onto the wood will add depth of colour, so with a little bit of experimenting its possible that you could achieve the look you want. If the wood has grayed then Driftwood is a good colour to consider.
You could use a wood wax or hard wax oil to seal the stain when you have achieved the desired colour.
Hi Sam, further to my earlier message, I tried a blob of cooking oil on a corner that is not damaged and it remained. It did not soak into the wood so I presume it is varnished or lacquered, Alan
Hello Alan,
Because the Oil remained on the surface of the wood it would indicate that you have a Varnish/Lacquer on your table. If you where looking to restore this table yourself I would recommend stripping it back with Barrettine Paint Panther which will remove most paint and varnishes. Once this is done a light sand with a 150 grit sandpaper and the table should be ready for a new treatment.
Applying an Oil based product will make future maintenance much easier and will give the table a more natural finish. It will depend on the colour that you would be looking for but a couple of thin coats of Osmo Poly Oil which is a clear finish that will darken the wood slightly or for a colour you could look at the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints which will protect and colour at the same time. It is always advisable to do a test area first, to ensure you like the finish. And if you have any further questions do let me know – Sam
Hi Sam, I have an oak dining table which is used every day. The edges of the top surface (where we lean or rest our arms) has gone sticky and darkened. The wood is a golden colour. I have had a quote to have the table treated but it is cheaper to buy a new table. I think the original treatment was Swedish oil but I am not sure. What can I do to restore this table please
Hello
I have got some oak from part of a tree that fell down a couple of months ago. I am going to use 3′-6″ poles from it to make a play structure for my boys – maximum length will be about 12′. This it my first major project of this kind and I have not worked with oak before.
Having researched this for some days now, I have come to the conclusion that I will need to use stainless steel fixings because of the corrosive effect of the oak on zinc and regular steel. I am planning to use M10 or M12 threaded bar/rod and SS washers and nuts on most sections and M16 on the really key load bearing elements.
Whilst looking up advice on peeling the bark I came across your very helpful site. Please would you advise me on the following:
1 the best method for peeling bark from oak poles;
2 how I can prevent/minimise cracking. The uprights will need to be about 3′ into the ground and the remainder will be clear of the ground.
3 anything I might have not considered given my inexperience!
Thanks for your help.
Andy
Hello Andy,
Interestingly I have just written a Blog on Children’s Play Parks and equipment, and the maintenance and regulations involved in this. It is mostly about commercial play equipment but does give useful tips about making your own. Its not yet published but keep an eye out in the next week or so. In the mean time stripping the bark from the oak will speed up the drying time and that is when cracks in the wood could start to occur. To remove the bark ( which I have not done before ) I have been advised that you should use a chisel and scrapper and a lot of effort. It is worth applying a Decking Oil as this will help to keep the wood nourished and reduce the chance of it cracking.
But before the Oil use a good quality wood preservative to protect the wood from Mould, Mildew, Rot and more. Make sure to really soak the areas that is going into the ground, it will inevitably be the area that will begin to break down first but by soaking in the the preservative and treating with Oil before burying it, you will give it longer.
Any cracks that may appear should not be to much of a problem on a solid piece of Oak, just keep an eye on it not being a finger trap for the children and early signs of decay due to water sitting in the cracks. You can of course fill then in if needed. If you have any other questions do let me know and I would love to see the results of your project if you have time, you can send photos to wood@finishes.direct
Hello, We have recently renovated our living room which includes preparing a fireplace for a log-burner. We have also looked at building control/regulations for relevant requirements. We have placed a solid oak beam the appropriate distance above the log burner, rather like a mantelpiece but it is flush with the chimney breast. It will obviously become quite warm so we would like to know what product we could use safely that is obviously not going to react to the heat. We would like the oak to look naturally darker rather like the example given of the finished door above. Kindest regards Paula
Hello Paula,
One of the best products for you to use would be the Osmo polyx Oil It is a hard wearing and durable finish that will darken the wood in a similar way to the example above. And it is suitable for use on your Mantle as it is heat resistant. I would love to see a photo of the finished project if you get a chance, you can send images to wood@finishes.direct
Hello.
We brought 6 light Oak garden chairs 9 months ago and put the togeather and out in the garden about 3 months ago.They had some sort of coating on them but it appears that it is slowly washing off in the wet weather.I am going to Rub them down and need advise what to treat them with so they are weather protected but still look naturaul.can you advise us on the best treatments so they last
Thank you in advance.
Chris
Hello Chris,
Thank you for your question, the first thing I would advice you to put on is Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative this will ensure that the wood is protected from Mould, Mildew, Rot and Wood Boring Insects. Once this product has dried you need to use a top coat Oil to protect from UV and Water ingress.
If you would like a clear protective finish then any clear decking oil or Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra 420 (Clear) are good options, and are perfectly suitable for using on garden furniture. If you are thinking of adding some colour, then a coloured decking oil such as Ronseal Ultimate Protection Decking Oil would be good or Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain which has a good range of colours.
Hi,
I am considering building a garden pergola out of European green oak. I had assumed to leave it untreated and that it would gradually silver. However I read that it could turn black before silvering. Is that generally a big issue, or a short term thing? Are things like oak fences and posts usually treated in some way, or just left to go black and then silver?
Thanks for your help
Lee
Hello Lee,
Thank you for your inquiry. If any external wood turns black or has any black patches, speckles or marks it is usually a mould forming as a result of water ingress. To avoid this you can use a preservative that will prevent mould, mildew, algea, rot and more. Barretttine Premier Wood Preservative comes in a clear finish and doesn’t have UV Filters in it, so you will still get that silvering effect without any blackening, and your wood will be protected.
Hi there, the frontage of my listed house is reputed to be of old oak ship beams installed by a ships captain, the very first owner of the property.
My neighbours have been complaining that the beams look dried out and tatry and are no longer black. My neighbour has suggested that I get the beams painted black, but my friend a retired furniture antique dealer said that under no circumstances should I use ordinary black paint but a blackened oil product.
I am at my wits end, could you please suggest a product that will not dry out my old exterior oak beams but will nourish and weather seal them, I am bewildered as to what to use.
Your help would be gratefully appreciated,
Thank you
Angie.
Good Morning Angela,
Thank you for your inquiry, worry not I can recommend some products for you. Your friend the Antique dealer is right. The first thing that you need to do is remove or work out if there is any old product left on the wood. If you have had paint or varnish on there previously you will need to remove it, as it will prevent an Oil that you use from soaking in. If the Beams haven’t been treated for a while this should be easy enough.
The first thing that you will need to do is use a wood preserver. Cuprinol Exterior Wood Preserver comes in a black finish so is ideal for use as a base for a Black top coat product. Using a black or ebony oil based product is preferred as these soak into the surface of the wood to nourish it, are microporous, provide excellent water repellent properties and will not peel and flake over time. Maintenance just requires a fresh coat of oil every few years when the wood needs it. I hope that answers your question and if you have any more please feel free to ask. If you would like a different finish i.e clear/natural let me know and I will recommend the right products for you, and we would love to see some before and after pictures if you are able to send some the email is wood@finishes.direct
Hi there
We are looking at putting in two chunky pillars/posts on a porch and would like to use oak. is the maintenance on this difficult/expensive being external or should we be looking at a different timber that is better weathering? any advice?
many thanks
Hello Lorriane,
It will not be difficult to maintain at all. The trick to keeping your wood looking good is too ensure that you regularly treat when it is needed and don’t wait until the wood is looking old and tired.
As you are working with bare wood (wood that has no product on ) the first thing to do is apply a wood preservative. Several such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver and Ronseal Total Wood Preservative come in a clear or coloured formulas that will protect against mould, mildew, rot and more.
Then a top coat product that is Oil based to give UV protection and makes the wood water repellent. A Decking Oil would be suitable for this and generally the darker the colour the more UV protection it will provide. However if you would like a clear or natural finish then use the Premier Wood Preservative in Clear and then Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra.
Maintenance coats will need to be done every couple of years depending on the weather over the years. You will just need to make sure the wood is clean and dry and then you can add a maintenance coat of the Oil on the top of previous products without any fuss. I hope that helps and if you have any more questions just let me know – Sam
Hi, I have just had all my internal doors, door linings and architrave replaced with solid oak in my house which I was so pleased with but came home today to find that my builder has somehow managed to use a natural oak satin varnish instead of clear so I am now left with shiny too dark oak everywhere instead of the lighter natural finish I wanted. I am distraught! Is there anything I can do!?? Grateful for any advice please. Thanks so much.
Hello Fran,
Firstly it is worth noting that even a clear varnish will darken the wood slightly, you can get an idea of how much by wiping a damp ( not wet ) cloth onto the bare wood. So deciding if the difference is significant enough may be the first consideration.
Then if you do decide to proceed there are a couple of products that can be used to remove varnish, the first and quickest would be the Barrettine Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover which is a gel like stripper that will make the varnish bubble so that you can scrap it off. The second product which is perhaps less messy but takes a while is Barrettine Peelaway 7. This paint and varnish stripper is a paste like poultice that you leave on for 24/ 48 hours and then peel off, bringing away the varnish with it. I would strongly recommend a test area first with whichever of these products you decided to use.
And for a totally natural finish that protects the wood but leaves it unchanged take a look at Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural
Excellent advice being given on your blog. Could you advise me as to whether
European light oak would be a suitable wood to use on a set of exterior, west facing doors? We want to have them made in Georgian window style but have been told that oak can. ‘move’. We do not wish to have doors that will warp and/or twist in years to come. Would appreciate your input as you seem to know your woods.
Thanks, Mike Orpwood (Southend-on-Sea, Essex)
Hello Mike,
It is true to say that Oak would not be the best option, for the reasons that you have talked about. It is known to ‘move’ over time, some people like this and choose to use Oak for the ‘Rustic’ look that can be achieved with it.
And so we would recommend a hard, tropical wood such as Teak or Sapele, these will naturally be rich in Oil and would need to weather a little before treatment can be applied. But they will not move or warp in the same way that Oak does. I hope that helps and we would love to see the progress of your project, if you would like to send us any photos you can do so to wood@finishes.direct
Hi, I made a sign for a customer out of solid air dried oak. Since mounting it has bled an orange stain down their white wall when it rains and they aren’t very happy obviously. I’ve never seen this problem before; could the oak have leached colour out? Or is the varnish faulty in some way possibly? It only had a very light coat of spray varnish as they wanted a natural look. Thanks I am at a loss and have had to refund but don’t want this issue again for future pieces.
Hello Bex,
I’m sorry to hear about the problem that you have had. It would be difficult for me to give an answer without seeing the problem. If you are able to send a photo to wood@finishes.direct we can take a look for you. It does sound like tannins leaking from the wood and it would be good to know what product you used on the sign – Sam
I have bought some oak poles to use as a banister……how do you suggest I treat them?
Would just a clear wax be suitable?
Hello Kathryn,
Thank you for you inquiry. The Fiddes Supremem Wax Polish would be an ideal product to finish your spindles in.
Hi, I’ve just finished two English oak Adirondack chairs with a preservative coat and two coats of Osmo 425 UV clear finish. I used a brushing technique rather than a roller or cloth.
They look great and I’m really confident about the preservation qualities but, in places, the finish is almost glossy and I am hoping for more of a soft sheen.
Is there an application technique that would achieve the desired finish?
Thanks very much,
Jon
Hi Sam
Thanks for your advice,I am going wait until the doors arrive and then try the damp cloth be for I decide. Paul
I have a modern oak table, but i have a couple of small patches where the varnish has been lifted, how can i repair this?
Hello Susan,
We would normally recommend that you remove the remaining varnish and start again with a fresh treatment. The main reason for this is that once the seal of the varnish is broken it leaves the wood underneath and the remaining varnish vulnerable. If you don’t wish to do this is it possible to repair the damaged areas and we have a blog post about varnish repairs on flooring but the principle will be the same for your table I hope this helps and if you have any more questions please let me know – Sam
Hi Sam
I am having three exterior oak doors made and have been looking for the right product to treat them with.I want to keep them as natural as possible but don’t want them to go black or silver.Having read all the advice I had decided on 2 coats of Barrettine clear wood preservative followed by 2coats of osmo uv protection oil 420 extra but In a reply posted on Jan 30th you suggest that osmo uv oil should not be used inside as it contains biocides so do I have to treat the inside of the door differently to the out side thanks Paul.
Good Morning Paul,
We can not recommend that you use the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra inside because of the Biocides, we do however have many customers who do so anyway. The alternative product for the internal side of the door is the Osmo Polyx Oil this will give the same finish as the UV Protection Oil. It is worth noting that these two products will darken the wood slightly, if you wipe a damp cloth on the surface of the bare wood, that will give you an indication of how much. If you would like a product that darkens less you could consider Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra Natural (429) and the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw these will give the same level of protection but will not darken the wood as much if at all.
Hi
Hoping someone will have the answer! Just sandblasted the black paint of our 500yearold oak wall & ceiling beams. Oak very dry and old woodworm holes. How can I feed and what with? Not looking to change colour of wood, just make it look healthy and not so dry. Thanks
Hello Katina,
A good quality Wax such as Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish this is an ideal choice for nourishing and and restoring character to your beams. It comes in a clear finish or colour and is very easy to apply. Woodleys Stockinette Cloth is the ideal cloth to apply with and if you apply sparingly allowing 10 mins for the Wax to dry, you can then buff to a required shine.
Thank u so much đŸ™‚
Can you please help me. We have just had a modern kitchen fitted the oak worktops were the perfect colour. Now my husband has oiled them the colour is far too dark and dates the kitchen, plus no longer matches the floor. What can we do to restore and preserve the untreated colour? Please please help is it too late ?
Hello Lydia,
The Oil that you have applied can be removed using Barrettine White Spirit. You may need to do some light sanding as well but a majority will come off with a good scrub, using some finishing pads and then you could apply a product such as Osmo Top Oil Natural this is still a protective Oil but is design not to darken the wood as much.You should always do a test area first to ensure that you like the finished effect. Hope this helps and you get the finish you are looking for.
Dear Sam/ Nick,
Thank you for this extremely useful advice on oak finishes. It has been a pleasure to read!
I am an architect and we are specifying a lot of high-quality external joinery in European Oak and Oak glulam for a big project in Cambridge. We would like all the oak to be pre-weathered or bleached so that it has the silvery weathered appearance from day one. Research has led us to an American product called Cabot Bleaching Oil but they will not ship this from the US to the UK. Therefore we need to find an available alternative.
Are you aware of products that may be suitable? Ideally we would find something that does not require ‘staining’ the oak grey to achieve the weathered appearance. The Contractor has suggested Osmo Natural Oil Wood Stain (silver grey 905) but it would be good to find a ‘bleaching’ product.
Would the 1 coat clear wood preservative and 3-5 coats tung oil be suitable?
Many thanks for your help.
Tom
Hello Tom,
My apologies in the delay in getting back to you, I have been speaking to our wood finishing expert Merv about this one as its not something I know a lot about. Here at WFD we don’t do any bleaching products or really encourage people to use them, but merely to allow the natural weather process to occur, if you would like that silvered effect. You can do this by using a clear product that doesn’t have UV filters in it such as the Osmo Decking Oil. And I would recommend using the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative as a first coat treatment before the Decking Oil I appreciate that in your case you may not have the time to be able to do this and as suggested the Osmo Natural Oil Wood Stain 905 will be the closest finish that we would recommend. You should do a test area as I’m sure you are aware different woods will take have an effect of the final colour that is achieved. I hope that your are able to get the look you require.
Hi Sam
15 years ago, in return for a donation to the charity, the Woodland Trust provided a bench in memory of my belated parents which was sited in woodland in Yorkshire. It was made from a recently felled oak, and was or rustic design, with the both the seat and backrest sawn about 4″ thick from the trunk. The planks retained the sapwood and bark on each edge. On each pilgrimage to the bench, the family lovingly applied oil, but this has done little to stop the sapwood rotting out (the heart is still sound) and the bench needs replacing. If we replace “like for like”, what is the best way to treat a bench made from unseasoned wood.
Thanking you in anticipation. Richard.
Hello Richard,
Thank you for your inquiry, because the wood is new it will have a high moisture content and so is unlikely to take a protective product such as an Oil or varnish initially . What I would recommend is to use the Premier Wood preservative for a couple of years until the wood has weathered more and able to take a product such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra which is durable hard wearing product. It would need a maintenance coat every 2/3 years dependent on weathering and general wear and tear. Hope this helps – Sam.
Hi Sam
Thanks for reply, I added your suggestion to my basket, but before I complete can I ask one more question. I have used pine planks about 20mm x 200mm for the horizontals and found in the past they have over time warped across the width to kind of curl. Can treating stop this?
Dont want to postage costs, so if this is treatable I can order at the same time.
Thanks for your time
Jamie
hello sam
i am a builder and the architect has specified a no. of european oak feature walls externally.
he does not want a shiplapped or weatherboard look so i was thinking of using an engineered floorboard with a 6mm oak veneer and then sealing it with an oil based marine varnish, do you have any advice on this.
thank you in advance.
regards
matt
Hello Matt,
I had a word with some of my colleagues about this one and we all agree that this would not be a viable option that we would recommend. We believe de-lamination would occur sooner rather than later and would not provide adequate protection. It is difficult for us to advise you on this as we are not specialist in cladding or external features, but rather the best finishing products to use. It has been suggested however that you would be better off using solid Oak tongue and groove, that should be treated with a good quality finishing product on both sides before installing. We would recommend the Sadolin Quick Drying Wood Preserver as a first coat protective treatment and then a product such as Sadolin Classic Wood Protection followed by Sadolin Extra Durable Clearcoat Sadolin produce the best exterior varnish due to its flexibility and durability. Hope this helps – Sam
Hi Sam
I have purchased some untreated planks of European Oak to make the uprights to shelf units (indoors) and want to keep them as natural as possible.
It looks like a clear wax is possibly the answer, I have some Autentico Furniture Wax in the garage, but not sure this is suitable.
Considering the outlay for the oak I want to protect it best I can and would rather spend a little more to treat it correctly.
Many Thanks – Jamie
Hello Jamie,
A wax will give the wood a great natural finish but minimal protection. But you might want to consider a hard wax oil such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural. This product will give more protection than a wax and still leave a Natural look to your wood. A little oil goes a long way as it must be applied thinly and worked in to the surface of the wood with any excess or surface oil being wiped off. Hard wax oils are very durable, easy to apply, maintain and to patch repair worn areas if required.
good evening i rubbed down all my oak window frames to remove the o;d brown stain just sand paper and hard work no chemicals but now i just want a clear light golden Finnish but every time i put on a osmo oil or varnish the wood turns very dark.i also bleached one window frame but still the same effect when applying a product is there anything out there that will not change the colour from a light golden colour to a dark stain many thanks mr lee flint
Hello Mr Flint,
There is a product that is designed to keep the wood looking as Natural as possible called Osmo Polyx Oil Raw if you have a wood that’s Natural colour is particularly affected by oil, there may still be some minimal darkening, but this is the best product to use. Always do a test area first.
Thanks for the advice, Sam!
Hi Sam,
We are in the middle of converting a barn and so now the high old beams will appear in bedrooms and I am wondering how to clean them. My main concern is what to do about the shakes (the horizontal gaps in the wood – don’t know if I’ve used the right word!). They have a lot of dust and debris in them. Can I fill them with something or would it be better to leave them as they are? I thought I would gently clean the beams with a duster and damp cloth and then beeswax them but I’m not sure how to clean out the shakes.
Thanks for your help!
Sarah
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for your inquiry. ‘Shakes’ is the right term for those horizontal gaps in the beams. If you can find a long bristled soft brush to get as much of the dust and debris out as possible and then filling the gaps will be down to personal preference. Many people do like the character that they add to the beams and leave them unfilled. But I guess it will depend on the overall look of the room, that you are trying to achieve.If you do decide to use a filler you may need to build it up in layers if some of the gaps are quite big. A good filler to use would be the Osmo Interior Wood Filler or the Bona Mix and Fill The only thing to watch out for is if you do leave them and apply beeswax, just have a cloth or brush handy to remove the build up of wax that can leave a white residue that can build up in the cracks and crevices. And of course we would love to see some photo if you get a chance, you can send them to helpme@wood-finishes-direct.com