The sun is out and temperatures are on the rise. This is the time when we venture out to the garden to survey the surroundings and draw up the list of maintenance tasks.
When talking about exterior wood finishes, there’s always an assumption that it’s about treating your decking, garden shed or fence. Although these are indeed the most common garden features that need maintenance after a winter of wind, rain and freezing temperatures, wooden window frames, doors and porches should also be checked and given attention if required.
It’s all about the knowledge
A question we get asked a lot here at Wood Finishes Direct is “What is the best exterior wood treatment?”. Unfortunately, there’s no single product that is better than another for every project and type of wood. In fact, deciding what product should be used can be a complex matter. That’s why we invest heavily in the training of our sales and service team, or as we call them, the SAS team. All of our support staff are rigorously trained so that they’re familiar with the products we stock, their properties and their suitability for any number of given scenarios. This means that we’re always able to give expert advice and guidance on which products and brands are best suited to your project.
Exterior wood finishing types
Essentially, there are two types of exterior wood treatments, those that are absorbed into the surface of the wood such as oil based products and those that form a protective coating on the surface of the wood, both of which have their own unique characteristics and benefits.
Penetrative Wood Treatments
Penetrative wood treatments are the type of products that soak into the wood and protect from within such as decking oils, shed & fence treatments. These products are predominantly oil and wax based. They work by penetrating then drying in the surface grain of the timber to provide a tough, durable, weather resistant surface.
The key benefit of this type of product is that they are very easy to apply and maintain. When the finished surface starts to look tired and worn, it’s simply a case of re-applying a fresh coat. No need to sand, strip back or remove the old finish. Wood oils are very forgiving for patch repairs meaning that localised areas of wear are very easy to repair and blend in with the surrounding areas. Leading brands that specialise in these types of exterior wood finishing products include Osmo, Ronseal, Barrettine, and Cuprinol.
Exterior coating systems
What was once the realm of paints and exterior wood varnishes is now dominated by an array of ultra modern wood coating systems. Whereas old paints and varnishes had a reputation for cracking, flaking and peeling, modern coating systems have been scientifically developed to withstand the effects of weathering and the constant movement of the timber as a result of moisture and temperature changes.
Modern exterior wood coatings are flexible and durable meaning that they rarely need to be stripped back to bare wood if maintained correctly, a firm favourite for exterior joinery such as wooden window frames and doors. Brands such as Sadolin and Sikkens are designed in such a way that as the top coat wears over time, it starts to lose some of its colour and sheen. This is an indicator that the finish needs maintenance. Surfaces that require maintenance can be restored by following a few simple steps.
- Wipe down with Methylated Spirit to degrease the old finish.
- Lightly sand the surface to remove any ingrained surface dirt and debris. This also provides a key for the new top coat.
- Wipe down a second time after sanding with Methylated Spirit to remove all traces of sanding dust and any residual grease from hands and finger tips.
- Ones dry, a fresh top coat can be applied to restore the appearance and maximise protection of the timber.
Other brands that specialise in exterior coatings, translucent and opaque include Dulux Trade and Crown Paints. Also, see Sadolin’s Superdec Opaque Wood Protection finish.
Have a question about exterior wood care projects?
If you have an exterior wood care project to tackle and are not sure which product to choose, give our resident wood experts a call. They’re able to provide free, expert wood finishing advice, so that you can make a well-informed choice on which products are suitable for your project. Alternatively, visit our FAQ page which covers many of our most commonly asked questions.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your decking project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
Hi – I have some old pine floor joists I want to use on top of some concrete posts as a deck. I doubt the joists are pressure treated so my question is how best to treat them. I was thinking of wood preservative which I could paint on and dip the cut ends into. Would you suggest any additional or different treatment?
Good Afternoon Justine,
You have it exactly right, a good quality preserver is the best place to start Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver , this can be use all over the wood including the cut ends if you want. You can stand the ends in a bucket of preserver for an hour or two to allow the wood to really soak up the preserver. Or for the cut end you could consider and End Grain product such as the Barrettine End Grain Preserver which is high in wax content to repel moisture.
The more you can do before construction of the decking the better it will be for the wood and can certainly extend the life of the wood. You can then follow this with a top coat of Decking Oil that will repel moisture and for an oil that will also slow down UV damage you could have a look at the Barrettine Decking Oil which comes in a clear or coloured finish and it is fair to say that when you apply a coloured finish this will improve the level of UV protection that the wood gets.
I am here to help should need any further advice.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, i have an untreated log cabin, so i believe i need a base wood preserver then a stain then a protective top coat.
So im thinking Sadolin clear wood preserver, then one coat of Sadolin classic and 2 coats of Sadolin extra.This should last around 5 years before recoating. Sikkens sounds like a similar price/ quality.
Alternatively, much cheaper 2 coats of Barrettine wood preserver, and 2 coats of Barrettine log cabin treatment.
So how long would the cheaper option last before needing re coating? Would this provide similar protection levels, but just need re coating more often? Any other options you would suggest?
Many thanks.
Good Afternoon Richard,
You have all the right product combinations and options there. The Sikkens and Sadolin are as you say very similar products and are fairly equal in longevity and protection, so you can base this on colour required if you choose to use either of these products and they will last longer than the Preserver and Log Cabin Treatment.
However the Barrettine Preserver and Oil have benefits of there own, as products that penetrate the wood surface they will not peel and flake over time and they are very easy to maintain. When you feel the wood needs a refresher coat you are able to simply reapply the oil to a clean dry surface, no need for sanding. And in terms of how long it will last this will very much depend on exposure to the elements, south facing may need maintenance sooner than other sides for example.
To apply a coloured finish will also increase the UV protection of the wood and slow down the silvering process. With all product I would recommend a test area first to ensure you like the colour and finish that will be achieved.
And for further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Best regards Samantha.
Hi Samantha
I’m replacing the shingles on my porch roof with new red cedar shingles. Can you advise which product you would recommend I could treat these new shingles with to give them the best protection please?
Thanks
Steve
Good Afternoon Steve,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Cedar shingle tend to not require a finish, certainly not immediately any how. Cedar is a naturally oil wood that is resistant to decay, which is why it is such a popular choice for cladding and shingles. If the tiles are new and fresh then application of any products could be problematic.
So allow them to weather and if over time you feel that some protection is still needed then have a look at a good quality preservative followed by a top coat of oils to help aid moisture repellency and UV damage.
If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello Samantha.
I am erecting an oak pergola to go above seats and shelving for which I have purchased iroko. This all fixes to white rendered walls and bases.
I have two questions:
In terms of protection, I would like to protect the colour of both woods and from reading your advice to others, the Osmo UV protection oil 250 seems a good option. Would you agree? Will this help protect the iroko from bumps and scratches (it is a slightly more delicate wood than I was expecting and will be subject to children, beer and bbqs (not necessarily all at the same time)).
In planning my layout I left the wood on their bases, and came back from a heavy rain shower to find both woods had bled tannins over the render. Is there anything I can do to prevent this once the wood is fixed in position? And would you recommend anything to remove tannin stains if this is an unavoidable issue?
Thank you!
Chris
Good Morning Chris,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Iroko being a tropical hardwood will require a period of weathering before you are able to apply a protective products on it, this is because it is naturally high in oil content already and this will prevent or cause problems with the uptake of any protective treatment you are looking to apply. During this period you are able to wipe away and tannins that are leeching out with Methylated Spirits to help avoid staining and doing this regularly will help reduce future staining.
When the wood has weathered and you are ready to apply a finish you could have a look at the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra this is a penetrating oil for exterior woods that will slow down the silvering effect of the sun. However for hardwoods such as the Iroko we more often recommend the Osmo Decking Oil because this is a thinner option more suited to hard woods. This one does not have UV protection however and will allow the wood to silver naturally.
These oils will offer a moisture repellent finish to the wood, however, no finish will prevent scratches or dents, if the wood is impacted with some force it will still dent no matter what product you apply. For further product advice please feel free to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi I am hoping you will be able to help. We have just bought a pressure treated wooden shed (not sure if the type of wood). The instructions say to give it a waterproof treatment. I’ve been looking at your website and I’m not sure she whether to go for a clear water seal treatment or a wood oil. To maintain the water seal would we need to sand/prep the wood once the original coat deteriorated? Or could we just add another coat (like I’ve read you can do with the oil wood stains).
Thanks Sam
Good Afternoon Sam,
So the pressure treatment is designed to help prevent mould and rot from forming, they vary from product to product and manufacturers can be vague in exactly what the protection offered. So here at Wood Finishes Direct we tend to recommend the use of a Preservative first, the Barrettine Premier Universal is a good clear one that will allow you apply most finishes over the top to then give a water repellent and UV protected finish.
Ideal finishes for exterior oils that we tend to recommend for exterior wood such as sheds, log cabins and decking, for ease of maintenance. Oils will also penetrate the surface of the wood and will not peel and flake over time and decking Oils are very versatile and can be used for a wide range of exterior projects. For more advice feel free to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hello Samatha,
I’m restoring a pine front door for some friends. It looks Victorian and originally it would have been painted but my friends bought it from a reclamation yard that had had it dipped/stripped so it is just bare pine now.
They like the unfinished look that it currently has so want a finish that will change the colour as little as possible and have the minimum sheen (preferably matt).
The door will be in an open porch so won’t get direct rainfall or sunshine but it’s Wales so it’s quite a damp environment and the sun has been known to shine.
I know that the wood has been dried out by the stripping process and needs ‘feeding’ so I would be grateful if you could factor that in.
Lastly, there is a little bit of filling required. Is there an external equivalent of the floor filling gels that can be mixed with sawdust?
Many thanks
Michael
Good Afternoon Michael,
Thank you for your question. As the wood will be exposed to a damp welsh environment I would normally recommend a preservative first, this will help to prevent any mould or rot from damaging the wood, however this will darken the wood somewhat, particularly if it is very dry. If you wipe a damp cloth over the bare wood this will show you how much it will darken. As you do not want to change the colour you will need to skip this part and go straight to the finishing coat.
For this I can recommend the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra in the Natural 429 finish. This is a clear oil with a minute amount of pigment to counteract the darkening you would normally get with a clear. It is designed to leave the wood looking as untouched as possible. However I would strongly recommend a test area first as the condition of the wood will impact on the finish and I do suspect that it may still darken a little. Sample sachets are available and if you have a read up of the product and get back to me if you have any questions.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi,
I’m about to start cladding a garden building with pine tongue and groove wood. I’ve been advised to put a first coat on the wood before I install it. I’m wondering if you could please advise me of an oil or varnish I can use that gives a light colour red cedar effect and is also a good wood preservative?
Regards,
Jason
Good Afternoon Jason,
Application of any protective product before construction will always be beneficial, as it will allow you to treat all surfaces fully and you can even give the cut ends a bit of extra care with a product such as Barrettine End Grain Preserver if needs be.
You can either get the red cedar tone with a colour preservative such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative followed by a clear top coat of oil like Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment
Or you can use a clear preservative Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver followed by a coloured decking oil such as Barrettine Decking Oil
Our for a more intense colour finish you could use coloured preservative and coloured oil.
If you take a look at these and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have. Always try a test area first.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi there,
I cladded a garage a few years ago with waney-edge Larch and it is a beautiful wood and very hard wearing and resilient which is why we chose it. It still looks great now but when it was first installed it had a deeper colour due to the natural moisture in the timber, it has dried out now so is a much lighter colour. Would an oil or something similar be any use it trying to get the deeper colour back as well as adding protection? I can show a picture of how it was if that is possible to add.
Thanks, Mike
Good Afternoon Mike,
Yes absolutely! Application of an oil will enhance, nourish and revive the appearance of the wood, on the condition that is has not totally silvered with UV damage. A clear oil will darken slightly to give what we call the ‘wet look’ and this will bring the appearance of the wood back to life.
You could have a look at the a product like the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment which is a clear oil or if you think you would like to add a little colour then Barrettine Decking Oil is a good option to consider.
You might also want to consider the application of a preservative before the oil, and this will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. And of course always try a test area first.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi I have bought a used wooden garden set – the seller told me he used –
Fiddes Exterior High Build Wood Oil – contains UV filters
As it is so very expensive could you recommend anything that would do the same job please
My neighbour mentioned Linseed oil
Regards
Good Afternoon Eileen,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. My advice would be to stick with the Fiddes High Build wood Oil It appears slightly more pricey however a little goes a long way as all that is required is two very thin coats for new application or one thin coat for a top up. It can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3-5 years if kept at room temperature, for further maintenance at a later date.
It is a very durable finish and will protect better than many of the soft oils such as Linseed or Danish. However if this is the route you wish to take then I would definately recommend Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil as good option. I would recommend a test area with any product you apply to ensure the wood is accepting more oil and that you like the finish that will be achieved.
If there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to get int ouch via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi
I’m having a new shed delivered very soon. It’s a 10’x8′ apex shed in Tanalised wood.
I’d like to oil preserve it. Can I use oil based products over tanalised timber? Any recommendations?
And I’d like to paint on top a pale green – do you have any recommendations for this too?
Or do you do a pale green oil that would do the job?
Thanks
Cliff
Good Afternoon Cliff,
Thank you for coming over to Wood Finishes Direct with your question. The ideal product for your project will be the Cuprinol Garden Shades This has a wide range of colours that will suit your needs and can last for up to 5 years. If you take a look at the product and feel free to get back in touch via our contact us page if you have any further questions.
Always try a test area first.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi
What would you recommend to preserve a hardwood door exposed to a lot of wind and rain stained with Colron wood dye
Thanks Ian.
Good Afternoon Ian,
The Coloron is probably in Interior product and so not one recommended for the exterior area of a door, however it can be over coated with Colron Refined Teak Oil which is a suitable finish for an exterior area.
If you take a look at the product and read up to see if it is suitable for your project and also try a test area first. And if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello
I am having a new softwood shed built and the manufacturer says it will be delivered with one coat of ‘clear preservative’ on. I don’t know the type or brand. I want to achieve a final finish of a dark grey/charcoal colour with white window frames. The location is pretty damp as it is under trees so a treatment that is effective is important. If possible, I don’t want to be having to re-coat every couple of years and i don’t like the idea of a product that eventually flakes and needs removal before re-treatment. What can you suggest?
Regards
Andrew
Good Afternoon Andrew,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. To avoid a product that will peel and flake you could look at the Osmo Country Colour this is a penetrative oil that gives a paint like opaque finish. It has a great range of colours to choose from and may be ideal if you wood is smoothfinished and the preservative does not have any wax in it.
If the preservative that they have applied contains wax this will cause problems for application of many treatments including the Osmo above and paints. The wax will repal and cause adhesion problems and so if you are able to check with the manufacturers to see this will help with recommendations.
Please always try a test area first and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi,
I am installing a front porch using Meranti (new) hardwood frame and (used) mahogany doors. What would you recommend for maximum protection of both? A mixture of weather where I live but I suppose rain more so. Thanks.
Good Afternoon,
There are many product that you are able to consider for your project. As a starting point and assuming all the wood is sanded and with out any previous treatments remaining. I will advice the Sikkens Cetol Range as a long lasting protective finish for your wood. Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus one coat of this followed by two coats of the Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 the combination of the two will allow flexibility to cope with the changes in environment and is a moisture repellent finish. The colour will offer UV protection to slow down the silvering impact of the sun.
Good preparation and test areas are key to a good finish and wiping over with Methylated Spirits first to de grease and clean the surface before application is recommended.
If you have a read up of the products and of course I am here to help if you have any further questions, via our contact us page.
Kindest Regards Samantha.
Hi , I have a new corner shed /summerhouse fitted under conifers and will get a lot of damp in the future , I will use the Barrettine wood preserver on the viewed parts of the shed , what if I were to use a more sealed type of coating like a roof coating to keep out the damp on the hidden sides of the shed or would this starve the wood and make it dry out.
Regards
George.
Good Morning George,
Honestly, I am not sure about using a roof coating such as felt for the hidden sides. However I can recommend a very durable and waterproofing product that you could consider Barrettine Water Seal two coats of this will give an moisture repellent membrane to the surface of the wood.
If you take a look at this product and feel free to get back to me via our contact us page
Kind regards Samantha.
i have a house cladded completely with pine
The north face is ok but the south has taken a beating from the sun and cold winters and will need sanding completely and re-protecting
Its a very large property and i want to use the best product available
What would you suggest
Regards and Happy New Year
David
Hello David,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. There area wide range of options suitable for cladding so I will give you two options to consider. The first is the Sikkens HLS Plus this is a solvent based stain that will offer a long, durable and flexible finish. Three coats applied will last around 5 years although south facing can be reduced depending on the weather it is exposed to long term.
Alternatively you could consider an exterior oil such as Barrettine Decking Oil or Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain , this will penetrate the surface of the wood to give a moisture repellent surface. Oils will not last as long as the Sikkens for example but it is easier to maintain and repair. No peeling and flaking or stripping back, just patch repair or re apply a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it. I would expect this to be annually for an exposed South facing area.
If you take a look at the above and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. Always try a test area first.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi Samantha,
My husband & son are building a wooden studio (Billy oh), log-cabin type;
and previously they have built a lager cabin, using coats of Sadoline to preserve it.
In your opinion, is the Cuprinol equivalent to Sadoline in terms of performance
& lasting, or should we stick to Sadolin? (I like Cuprinol’s grey colour.)
Also is it necessary to lightly abrade both Sadoline & Cuprinol before applying a new coat?
Many thanks for your interesting replies.
Good Afternoon,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Both brands are very good and it will depend on the look you are hoping to achieve. The Cuprinol Garden Shades can offer up to 6 years protection when applied under the right circumstances, it will give an opaque paint finish.
Sadolin are also a very good range and have a variety of products from translucent natural wood coloured stains to opaque paints. Protection could be slightly longer with the Sadolin, however this very much depends on the conditions and weather it is exposed to over time. South facing sides for example can wear away quicker then other sides and require maintenance sooner rather than later.
I would also recommend a good quality preserver to be applied first to help prevent mould, mildew and rot. The right preserver will depend on the product you choose to finish in and for further advice please feel free to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi there,
We are renovating a stone cottage and we have recently installed a new roof. The roof has new pine gluelam beams and is lined underneath with new pine planks. The beams and planks also extend to the exterior where they cross the stone walls, and there is also some pine planking outside on some of the vertical surfaces, for example just below the guttering.
So far, all this pine has been treated with linseed oil, inside and outside, but having just discovered your excellent website we are wondering if we should be using a different product.
Also, we have created some new windows using reclaimed sweet chestnut wood for the lintels. Based on other advice you have given we are planning to treat these with Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. Does this sound like a good choice?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Regards, David
Hello David,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. The Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is ideal for exterior areas. It is a penetrative oil that dries hard and will help to keep the wood moisture repellent. It will also slow down the silvering process caused by UV damage. This oil will certainly give more protection to the wood than a Linseed oil and although we do still recommend regular maintenance, annually or biannually, it will be less than that required of a Linseed oil.
For the interior areas you could look at the Osmo Polyx Oil which is also a clear penetrative oil that will protect the wood. A little goes a long way as just two very thin coats are required for application. Its easy to be put off by the price however its coverage is exceptional.
The clear oils will darken the wood very slightly to give the ‘wet look’ and sample sizes are available in both products that will allow you to carry out test areas first.
If you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to let me know.
Kind regards Samantha.
We have installed an external wooden door at the back of our house. It is made from Sapele hardwood. I do not want to paint it but rather leave the natural wood finish. Could you recommend which product or products I should use to weatherproof it?
thanks
John
Hello John,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. For a natural look and feel to the wood I would recommend and exterior oil such as the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra this is a clear protective finish that will slow down the silvering caused by sun and repel moisture.
I would strongly recommend a test area first as you have hard wood and you need to ensure that the UV Protection will soak in. If you do have problems with absorption and find you need a slightly thinner oil there is the Osmo Decking Oil this one does not have UV filters however and so will allow the wood to silver quicker. Both the above are available in sample sizes and both will darken the wood slightly, enhancing the grain.
I hope that helps and always try a test area first.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi
I’m building a fence from planed untreated softwood. I’m after a black finish. Not fussed if it is matt or has a sheen but not gloss. There’s a lot of timber so thinking of an easy (lazy) solution…. Would you recommend a couple of coats of bituminous paint? If so, which product is best. If not, how come, and can you recommend a better alternative please?
Many thanks
Jon
Good Afternoon Jon,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. There are a few products that can be considered for you project starting with a Black Preservative such as Ronseal Shed and Fence If this product is over-coated with a clear exterior wood oil or decking oil, it will retain its preserving properties for around 5 years. This is only if the exterior wood oil or decking oil is re-applied and maintained on a yearly basis.
There is also the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative in black.
For decking oils to complete the job you could have a look at the Ronseal Decking Oil or Barrettine Decking Oil in clear. Or alternatively the Osmo Decking Oil in Black 020. The Osmo is only advised for smooth wood however as take up on rough sawn will be very high.
Test areas are always advised and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi Samantha. I am sanding down a slice of horse chestnut, 1m diameter, to make an outdoor table. The colour of the wood is almost white, but with some interesting markings and quite a few fine radial cracks. I would like to retain the whitish the colour but protect it from the elements. What finish would you recommend?
Thanks, John
Hello John,
If the wood has been dried and is ready for treatment then I would recommend the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra in the 429 natural finish. This penetrative oil has a minute amount of white pigment in it to counteract the darkening effect that you would normally get with a clear product.
Two thin coats are all that is required for this product and I would recommend finishing your sanding at 120 – 150 grit. This ensures the grain is not too tight for accepting the oil. And test areas as always are recommended to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved and because we do not get many inquiries about Horse Chestnut its important to see how the oil works on this particular wood.
I would also recommend a top up coat annually if exposed to the elements all year round, the horizontal area of the table will wear quick than any other area and if you can avoid standing water this will prolong the life of the oil and in turn the life of the wood.
It is the best product available for leaving the wood looking as natural as possible.
If you have any other questions I am here to help.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi Samantha,
I’m making myself a gardening tool for a project and I was looking for a good finish for a wooden handle. It would have to be durable, water/weather resistant and ideally not have to be reapplied often. I was looking at penetrative treatments but I would be interested in whatever you thought was best.
Thanks very much,
Jack
Good Afternoon Jack,
Thank you for getting in touch with you enquiry. You could start with Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra as a starting point, this is a penetrative oil that will slow down the silvering process and help protect the wood from moisture. It requires just two very thin coats for application and so a little goes a long way. I suspect that the 125ml tin will be plenty for you and if stored well can be used for maintenance coat years down the line.
Another option would be to look at Morells Tung Oil. It is a natural, moisture repellent oil, that can be applied in a number of coats and topped up when you feel the wood needs it.
If you take a look at those two and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions or you can use or contact us page.
Many Thanks Samantha.
Hi Sam, We bought a few raised garden beds which come in pieces to assemble. The are the normal pre-treated softwood sleepers which are approx 300mm wide x 200mm thick. I thought it may be a good opportunity to protect these and wondered which product would be best. We would like a walnut colour but happy to keep the light green pre-treated colour.
Good Morning Subodh,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. You could have a look at a Decking Oil such as the Barrettine Decking Oil although marketed for decking it is a very versatile product that can be used for a wide range of projects including your raised bed. The oil will penetrate the wood to give a moisture repellent finish and the colour will slow down the silvering effect of UV damage.
The darkest colour in this range is the Dark Oak, you could also look at the Holzol Decking Oil which also has some slightly darker colour that may suit your needs.
If there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi Samantha,
We have just put up contemporary horizontal slat fences from Grange which are described as pressure treated ‘Green Timber’.
We want to use a stain that will give a natural warm golden light colour (like a red cedar, beech or walnut) we really dont want it to look painted.
Please could you recommend something?
Thanks,
Kate
Good Morning Kate,
Thank you for your question. You could have a look at the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain this is a penetrative oil that gives colour and protection with just two thin coats. There is a wide range of colours available and sample size sachets, I would recommend these for a test area first as the wood that you are applying to will have an impact on the colour that will be achieved.
The natural oil woodstain can also be intermixed to create an alternate colour if there is not one in the range that gives the desired look. Test areas are strongly recommended and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, i have a number of fence panels which i purchased about 6 months ago, they are pressure treated in a very pale oak looking finish ,however, i want to retain the original colour ( I don’t subscribe to the often description” my panels have turned into a ‘lovely silver’ shade). My query is what would you recommend to treat my fence panels, would a clear finish preservative help keep the present pale oak shade of the wood? Many Thanks.
Good Morning Clifford,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. It can be difficult to retain the natural colour of the wood and get good UV protection, so I will recommend two products for you to consider. The first is the Barrettine Decking Oil although marketed for decking it is a very versatile product and can be used for a wide range of exterior project. It has UV stabalisers to slow down the silvering, however it will not stop it. With regular maintenance you will be able to maintain a good natural colour for years to come.
The best way to protect wood from UV damage will always be to apply colour, even a light colour, the pigments act as sunscreen and the darker the pigment the better the protection.
The second product to consider is the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra if your wood is smooth this could be the best clear product on the market for UV protection. It requires two very thin coats for application and so a little goes a long way and is not suitable on rough sawn wood.
Both the above will darken the wood slightly and it is very important to try test areas first to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. And for extra protection I would also recommend the application of a good preservative first, this will help prevent mould, mildew and rot. A popular choice and one suitable for use under the oils is the Barrettine Premier Universal Preservative which is a clear treatment, that will slightly darken the wood.
If you take a look at the above options and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions at all.
Kind regards Samantha.
I have quite old wooden windows that have been maintained, since new, with sikkens cetol hls plus and cetol filter 7 . I want to take one of them from the current mahogany reddish brown colour to Anthracite Grey (to match RAL 7016). I don’t really want to spend too much as they are coming to their end of life. What product would you recommend? I was considering buying a sample of the OSMO country colour to see if the products were compatible but would be grateful for any advice.
Good Afternoon Giselle,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry, the Osmo and Sikkens are not compatible products and in order to use the Osmo Country Colour needs to be applied to bare wood as it has to soak into the surface of the wood. Two thin coats are all that is required and any remaining Sikkens will prevent this from occurring.
The Ral colours are not available in sample sizes as they are mixed to order and are non refundable or returnable unless faulty, this does make it difficult to try test areas, and we always recommend these at Wood Finishes Direct, as the wood that you are applying to will impact on the finish that will be achieved.
For further advice please feel free to get in touch with us via our contact us
page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi there
I have some garden furniture that I need to preserve . When I bought it last year it was treated with Lorson preservative that has now worn off . I want to treat it with another preservative that will preserve and be water resistant over the winter . Was going to go for clear for now (can’t decide on a colour ) as I intend to stain it in the spring . What do you advice . Thanks
Hello Maria,
You could have a look at the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative this is a great all rounder, it protects against mould, mildew and rot and also contains some wax to repel moisture.
I would strongly recommend test areas first to ensure compatibility with the pre existing treatment and that you like the finish that will be achieved.
For further advice or to order your can call our friendly team on 01303 213 838 or use our contact us
page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, can you help please, we have recently moved to a new property and we have a double garage made if wood, it has weathered as it under trees etc and needs treating, it appears to have some sort of wood stain on it which is fairly dark (walnut colour which we are happy with)the side and back are turning green which appears to be a light moss we have started rubbing this down with a grit sand paper, there is no rot anywhere that we can see, but don’t have a clue what we should paint it/treat it with and wondered if you could recommend the best product/products to use at this stage on it, we are wanting to keep it looking natural with something that will last and so we don’t have to repaint it too often there are loads of birds and squirrels around it look forward to any advice you may have?
Good Afternoon Pippa,
Thank you for sending in your question. It can be difficult to narrow down a suitable product when you are unsure of the current finish, this often happens when people move into new properties.
The green on the back is probably algae and can be cleaned up with Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner this will help to clean off any spores also.
In terms of what to apply over the top to protect it will depend on the current finish, perhaps if you could let me know if it is like a paint or surface sealer ? Or if it appears to have soaked into the surface of the wood? Is it moisture repellent, if you splash some water at it does it bead off or soak in? And is the wood rough sawn or smooth?
If you would like to get back to me with this information to wfd.advice@wood-finishes-direct.com and maybe send some photos in also, I may be able to help further and narrow down some options for you.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi,
we have a new external sliding door in the barn, made of spruce wood. How to protect them in the best way? We would like to colour them too.
Thank you, Ann
Good Afternoon Ann,
Thank you forgetting in touch with your question. There are a couple of products you could have a look at, preserver will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. And they can come in clear or coloured finishes, a popular choice is the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative
You could also look at an exterior oil such as a decking oil, although marketed for decking it is a very versatile product and can be used on a wide range of exterior projects. If you stick with same brand there is the Barrettine Decking Treatment which also comes in clear or a coloured finish.
For a long lasting protection you can apply one or two coats or the preservative followed by two coats of the oil. Always try a test area first and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, thank you for your web page packed with professional knowledge. We just purchased from you barretine products to protect our summer house and it looks works extreamly well on the wood ( assumed larch). Can you please advise if we can use barretine for our benches (with iron frames, which we rather would not like to cover for winter)?
Or is it better to use linseed oil – if so raw or boiled?
Thanks for any suggestion, Joanna
Hello Joanna,
Can you let me know which of the Barrettine products you purchased and used on your summer house and I can tell you if it will be suitable for your bench also.
Kind regards Samantha.
Morning, I had some new windows and bi-fold doors installed two years ago and now need to stain/refresh them. They are Indigbo wood and were factory finished with 2 coats of preservative primer, one undercoat and one top coat when they were installed. Can you suggest anything, is it better to stain or seal? Thanks, Bernie.
Good Afternoon Bernie,
I would really need to know what the current finish is ? Do you have a brand name ? As this will impact on what you can use moving forward, unless you are planning to sand back to bare wood first?
And are you looking to treat the interior, exterior or both areas of the joinery. You can get in touch via our contact us page and I can advice you further.
Kind Regards Samantha.
I’m trying to restore the balustrade on our balcony. So far I’ve sanded, removed the worst of the rot and applied Ronseal wood hardener. Later today I will use wood filler to repair where I’ve had to remove rotten wood. I guess that I’ll need to use a varnish type of finish rather than an oil because of the use of filler. Any recommendations – the wood is quite exposed being high up and facing the worst of teh weather and the best of the sun. Cheers Andy
Good Afternoon Andrew,
Thank you for getting in touch. You could stick with Ronseal as you have used there hardener and filler and look at the Ronseal Yacht Varnish this is a solvent based, long lasting protective varnish.
Or as an alternate option the Polyvine Decorators Varnish Regular checks and maintenance will help the upkeep of the wood and prevent future water ingress that causes rot. Any areas that begin to wear or peel and flake should be repaired sooner rather than later.
I hope that helps, if you have a look at the products and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi Sam I ve been reading with interest. We have a really old oak bench possibly 1920s which I’ve sanded down through layers of v old paint to mostly bare wood. I chose culprinol wood preserver to go under osmo UV protector for a clear finish. However, the culprinol packaging says it should only be used with varnish paint or woodstain. Will it not work with Osmo? Should I return the culprinol and just use Osmo’s UV? Appreciate your help.
Hello Sam,
I would recommend the Osmo WR Basecoat this is a protective treatment to use instead of the Cuprinol. And will work well with the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra and protect against mould, algae and fungal attack.
You will need to ensure that you have removed all of the previous treatment in order apply the Osmo effectively and test area are always recommended. If you purchased the Cuprinol from us just call our service team about returning on 01303 213 838 option 2.
And if there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi. I have a t&g fence treated with Barrettine premier wood preserver in rich mahogany. It needs retreating but the colour has been discontinued. I want to keep the mahogany colour, is there another product which I can use to recoat the fence and keep the mahogany shade? Thank you, Nicola
Good Afternoon Nicola,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. It is unfortunate that the Mahogany has been discontinued, it is not a popular colour at the moment as many brands have stopped the colour. Which is a shame as it is such a warm tone.
The only products that you could consider is the Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain which has a Mahogany in its range, although how close it can is to the colour that you currently have I can not guarantee. This product is more suited to joinery but could be used on smooth wood fence panels, or the Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus which also has a Mahogany in its range.
I hope that helps and of course if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know or get int ouch with one of our team on 01303 213838.
Warmest Regards Samantha.
I have two external wooden posted that have been treated with Morrells pre catalyst Lacquer. Is this suitable for external use? Or will I have to sand down and treat with something else
Good Afternoon Barbra,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. The Morrells 250 Pre Catalyst Lacquer is not suitable for use on exterior wood.
If you are looking for a clear protective finish for your posts then I would recommend sanding back to bare wood and looking at the Sadolin Extra Durable Clearcoat as a good option. This is a extremely durable and flexible varnish that is ideal for exterior use.
If you take a look at this and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions at all.
Always try a test area first.
Kindest Regards Samantha.
Two weeks ago we had an enormous branch fall off our beech tree after a storm and now it has been milled and made into a beautiful plank to put on two round lumps of the same beech to make a bench. The plank is about 4″ thick. What’s the best way to protect it? It will be living outdoors for as long as it’s safe to sit on! I’m thinking Barretine Wood Preserver (how many coats?) followed by a couple of coats of Osmo UV oil. We have a green oak framed extension and use the Osmo UV on that – it looks great and is doing a good job. Hope you can steer us in the right direction! Thanks, Sarah
Good Afternoon Sarah,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. I would not recommend applying any product at this stage. The wood is ‘green’ this means recently felled and will have a high moisture content. Typically wood can a take a year per inch of depth to dry out, this will vary dependant on type of wood and location, but as a guide it give an indication of the long time that it takes for wood to dry out.
Applying anything at this stage could result in sealing in the moisture which will damage the wood long term or the product not adhering to the surface in the way that it should. Allowing the wood to weather for while is the best option at this stage.
Once you do feel that the wood is dry then you can apply a good quality preservative such a the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative, two coats. And for the best protection an exterior oil to go over the top will help to give moisture repellency Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil is a great option for most wood types.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do no thesitate to get in touch.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi. Moved into a 1980s house with what looks like a walnut stain on all the facias barge boads ect . It looks in good condition but faded. I just want to freshen it up with a couple of coats of something similar that will weather well. What product would you recommend. In the old days it was oil based products that were best . Not sure anymore. Thanks in advance. Keith
Good Afternoon Keith,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. You could have a look at the Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain.
It will always be best to apply to well prepared bare wood, however this product can be applied to previously stains timber, lightly abrade, in the direction of the grain, ensuring not to break through the surface coating, and removing any remaining sanding dust afterwards.
If you take a look at this product and I am here to help if you have any further questions.
Here at Wood Finishes Direct we always recommend a test area first.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi again Samantha,
Thanks for the advice on the shed – I’ll take it up and will get my order in to you.
Here’s another one for you: We also have a lot of new slatted screen fencing, made of horizontal Western Red Cedar battens 38mm x 19mm nailed to posts. The battens are sawn, not planed or sanded, and are untreated.
We would like to keep the lovely natural cedar colour over time, and not let them weather to silver grey. The timber supplier recommends sanding them all down to open up the grain then applying a Sansin SDF treatment. Our installer says it’s better to use an oil (no specifics).
What do you think our best option is?
Thanks in anticipation,
Jeremy
Hello Again Jeremy,
The best way to stop the natural silvering process is to apply colour to the wood. Pigments act like sun cream the darker the colour the higher the factor, even a very light colour will improve the protection versus a clear product. So if you want to do that you could look at a Ronseal Decking Oil it has a range of natural colours including Cedar that may suit your needs and the ‘Natural’ in this range is a clear oil that will very slightly darken the wood.
It would be fair to say that a rough sawn timber will absorb far more of any product applied to it and this is why I have recommended a decking oil, it is a very effective and durable protection that will be cost effective with the amount that you are likely to need.
Sanding the wood some, will help to reduce the amount of product absorbed but can be a difficult job with fencing and not something that I would necessarily recommend. If you take a look at the decking oil, we do also have others on the website and if you have any questions at all please do let me know.
And of course always try a test area first.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi Samantha,
I have a month-old tantalised T&G shed, 10’x6′, that is currently untreated apart from the original tantalising. Two sides have restricted, difficult access, with only about 12-18″ clearance from the garden fence. I can probably reach with a roller on a pole, but brushing is probably not possible. Any treatment I apply to these sides will not be repeated for a long time!
What treatment(s) and application methods would you advise? We would like a traditional wood shed colour, not too dark or too orange.
Thanks in advance!
Jeremy
Hello Jeremy,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. If you can bring yourself to apply two products and are looking for the best protection, my advice would be to apply two coats of the Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver followed by two coats of the Barrettine Decking Oil.
The preservative will give you protection against mould, mildew and rot and the Decking Oil will give a moisture repellent finish. If this is a bit to much of a task for the areas that are hard to reach then you can look at two coats of the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative this will protect in the same way as the Universal above but also has a small amount of wax to help repel moisture, it is not as effective as an oil however.
Application of with a roller is going to be a little messy as these products are quite thin but the more preservative you are able to get int o the wood the better. I hope that helps and if you do have any questions please do let me know.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi,
We have a Mahogany front door with side panels both with intricate detailing.
They are currently covered in ronseal satin stain and looking a bit tatty.
Can you recommend a product that will cover this up and bring back to a good finish please.
Would prefer not to have to sand back to bare wood if at all possible…..
Best regards
Adam
Good Afternoon Adam,
Are you able to send some photos in to me at helpme@wood-finishes-direct.com and I will be happy to take a look and see if I am able to make any suggestions.
Kind regards Samantha.
I have a wooden front porch and the timber along part of the base has rotted, I don’t want to renew the wood but would like to fill and paint over. What type of filler would you recommend ?
Good Morning Charlie,
My best advice would be to replace any rotting wood but I appreciate that this is not always an available option and in this event you could have look at the Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener its a cost-effective, long-term alternative to replacing joinery affected by wet rot and soaks deep into the fibres of rotted wood to strengthen the wood from within.
You can then follow this with Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler to fill and finish the damaged area.
If you take a look at these products and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions via our contact page contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi
We have recently purchased a log cabin and are miffed with what paint to use to achieve a solid painted look, It has been treated for rot, fungi, insects etc
we originally purchased the Cuprinol garden shades series but finding that requires 6 or more coats to even get near a solid colour (tested it on spare timber first) the log cabin is huge (5×4) and simply dont have the time (or patience) to paint it 6 or more times.
Wanting a solid colour finish (grey/blueish colour) with little to no wood grain showing through, but not something thats going to break the bank (like with osmo)
What would you suggest?
Michelle
Good Afternoon Michelle,
Thank you for your question, we have two exterior opaque finishing products that come in a wide range of colours. The first is the Cuprinol Garden Shades having used this myself on some cladding have found it to give a good opaque finish with two or three coats, it can depend on the colour you are using and the wood you are applying to but I would expect a timber log cabin to require just three coats to get the desired finish. The tin will need stirring all the way to the bottom to ensure the pigment is evenly distributed throughout the liquid, often pigments will sink to the bottom of the tin resulting in a slightly washed out look at the top.
Another option is the Ronseal Garden Paint this to has a great range of colour options and will only require two to three coats for application. The two products are comparable in finish and durability however. Again full stirring for at least 5 minute to ensure the pigment is evenly distributed.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions feel free to contact us via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
I have recently made a cross as a grave marker made in mahogany, it looked lovely the colour was bright. Finished with spray polyurethane clear satin.
One month later it looks vey tired, the sun has done it no favours an it looks in part quite grey and scruffy.
Any advice please?
Best
Phil
Good Afternoon Phil,
A clear product will give limited UV protection and if the product you have used does not have any UV protection this could be the reason that the wood has faded fairly quickly. Mahogany being a red in tone wood will be prone to fading slightly quicker than usual as this can be the nature of the colour red.
Are you able to let me know what product you have used Phil and if you are planning to sand back ? Details can be sent to me via our contact us page and I will happily advice further.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, I have just ordered a log cabin. It is made from untreated pine and will house a hot tub. What treatment/stain would you recommend internally and externally, keeping as natural colour ass possible?
So far I have looked at sadolin and sikkens. But not sure which is best. Thanks
Good Afternoon Vickie,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. The Sadolin and Sikkens are pretty much like for like in terms of quality and protection, and will give great protection to your Log Cabin. Both ranges will require a two coat or even three coat system to give the best level of protection to your wood and so if you would like to email me with which option you prefer and I will be happy to give further advice on application and number coats, in which order will best suit your needs.
These are both exterior ranges and so for the interior if you would like to look at a product such as the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil which will give a natural look and feel and will be easy to maintain over time.
If you take a look and feel free to email me with any questions you have via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha
Dear Samantha ,
Sorry lost your previous reply .
Am removing old bungalow facia .Intend to replace with ,new pine shiplap ,total area about 10sqm.
Please advise on best preservative undercoat and then Mahogany mat finish ,or suitable one coat /both sides application ,
Many thanks ,
John.
Hello John,
Thank s for getting back to me, I previously advised – For a long lasting finish you could have a look at the Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus. This has a range of colours and you can apply 2-3 coats for a semi gloss, natural looking finish. It is brush application and if you are able to apply to both sides before installing this will also prolong the protection to the wood.
I would expect this to last for a minimum of 5 years and possibly longer, depending on how exposed to the elements it is. A top up coat at the 5 year mark may help to prolong even further.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind regards Samantha.
I’ve bought a house with wood frame doors and windows that have not been maintained.
The insides of the doors/windows are in okay condition but the exterior surfaces are in bad condition so that doors/windows get soaked from rain and swell/jam making them difficult to open/close (after a decent hot spell allowing things to dry out they become easier to open/close again).
I am not sure what the wood they are made from is but think it is pine. The exterior surfaces are not rotted but do have a number of cracks. What do you recommend to bring the frames back to a maintained condition? To help stop the water penetration I was thinking of filling the cracks with an exterior filler – would this be sensible to do?
Regards,
Mike.
Good Morning Mike,
Thank you for getting in touch with your questions. The first thing to do is give the wood a good clean and perhaps a light sand. Good preparation is the key to a good finish. Once the wood is clean and ready I can recommend the Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus one coat followed by Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 two coats.
These two products will give exceptional durability and enhance the natural beauty and depth of the grain. You can use a filler such as Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler as this is very versatile and can be over painted. Areas that are filler may have a slightly different appearance and test area are recommended at all stages of the project.
If you take a look at the products to see if they are suitable for your needs and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi,
We have just built a 5.5 x 4.5m log cabin (from TUIN).
It comes untreated bare wood; TUIN have 6 different manufacturers they recommend, but they are all stains.
Ideally we would like to paint the cabin to our colour choice. I know i will add preservative first, but what concerns me is what paint/protection to use that are compatible and UV stable.
The cabin website says i need a micron thickness of 80-120um of protection??
1 of the treatments they recomend would work out at £1050 to treat it! (carefree is £37.5 x 28L)
What could we use that will afford it the same depth of protection, but at a sensible cost, and a colored finish?
Thank you in advance.
Good Morning Stuart,
I am sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I have to say that this is a set of requirement that I have not come across before when it comes to treating a Log Cabin, they are very specific. And I certainly would not expect a full treatment to protect the Cabin to come to that amount of money. I am not familiar with the Carefree and so its difficult to give comparison products, but I can recommend something that I believe will give a good level of protection and is easy to maintain over time.
It can be dependant on the type of wood used, but I can recommend the Barrettine Premier Universal this will prevents wood boring insects, wood rotting fungi and blue stain and gives long lasting protection.
Followed by two coats of a top coat product such as Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment this is a clear oil that will soak into the surface of the wood to give a moisture repellent finish that results in rain beading off the wood. As an estimet you will need to cover 40 m2 for your Cabin, this will require approximately 9-10 litre of the oil to complete 2 coats. Test areas are strongly advised.
The oil will protect the preservative and so if you maintain the oil with an annual or bi annual top up depending on how exposed the cabin is then the preservative will not requre a top up for afew years.
This is of course dependant on the type of wood you are applying to and if you have further details feel free to send via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi I’m getting a 6x6ft garden bar and would like to keep it to a light wood colour. What would be the best protection to put on it?
Thanks Tracy
Good Afternoon Tracey,
Thank you for getting in touch with us via our Blog. A garden bar is a great addition to any garden space and to keep a natural look to the wood, whilst offering great protection, my first recommendation will be to use a good quality preservative such as Barrettine Premier Universal Preservative this will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. It is a clear finish but it will darken the wood very slightly.
Then a top coat of exterior oil to give moisture repellency and slow down the silvering process of UV damage and for this there is a wide range of products but a couple to consider are the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra this requires just two very thin coats for application.
Another option is the Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil it will not peel and flake over time and is easy to maintain over time.
If you have a look at these two and feel free to let me know if you have any questions, I am here to help. If you feel the something more durable is required then let me know and I can offer some alternative suggestions.
Kind regards Samantha.
Have a bog standard garden fence and shed which have had to be painted with Cuprinol twice in the last four years despite the product saying it lasts five years. Is there a better product which would last longer?
Good Afternoon Maureen,
Durability of a treatment can depend on a number of factors that include, how exposed the fence is to the elements, what type of wood, any previous treatments, how well and often it is cleaned or maintained. 5 Years is a guide and quite optimistic for for a surface paint. Maintenance can be easy however if you tackle any areas of wear straight away this will help avoid damage and keep the paint lasting longer.
Alternatives are available but can give a similar length of durability and protection and still require regular top ups. For further advice please feel free to call and speak to one of our friendly team on 01303 213838.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello, I am currently constructing a greenhouse from reclaimed mahogany which will hopefully last a very long time. When it is completed I want it to be dark grey in colour, what would you recommend to both preserve and colour the wood
Regards Duncan
Hello Duncan,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. One option you could consider is the Osmo Country Colour this is a penetrative oil that colours and protects in just two thin coats. As you are applying to Mahogany this will impact on the colour that will be achieved and so a test area with a sample sachet is very important.
The Country Colour will give an opaque paint like finish but still with a natural feel to it. It does protect against moisture ingress however it does not contain Biocides and so a preservative is recommended for application before the oil and a good option is the Osmo WR Basecoat
Alternatively for a slight more natural and less opaque grey finish there is the Osmo Decking Oil which has a dark grey tone in its range. Although marketed for Decking it is very versatile and as long as it is applied thinly will also give great protection to your wood.
If you check out these products and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, we have recently installed 30m of new 2m high featheredge fencing around our garden and are obviously keen to get it into a preserved state asap. The boards are dry wood and untreated but have a greenish tinge which we quite like. Access at the moment is easy but will become more difficult as the project develops so we could do with something long lasting with either a clear or slightly green finish. We would be very grateful for your advice. Thanks, Ciaran
Hello Ciaran,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. I would recommend looking at the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative this is available in clear or coloured finishes and will give great protection to your fence. The clear will darken the wood very slightly should you choose that one and it will help to prevent mould mildew and rot as well as offer some moisture repelency to the wood as it contains wax.
As you are treating feather board it is likely that you will need more of the product than the coverage guide as the wood will be more porous and depending on how exposed the wood is to the elements, top ups can be done every few years, although for the best protection to your wood an annual refresher coat is recommended.
Always try a test area first and if there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha