Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing Oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A little history of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in The UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age which is typically aged 20. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’ although it doesn’t quite have the same ring does it?
Treating Oak wood
With regards to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straight forward. These are the necessary considerations: –
- When water penetrates oak it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The Sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of: –
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection oil 420 extra
Osmo 420 extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3-5 coats of high quality Tung Oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing then scrub with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew C leaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients).
Finished Oak 
Unfinished Oak
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior Oak. These products include: –
- If an oiled finish is preferred then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter) then the colour is kept very natural indeed, it’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its’ colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe and can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000 years old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish Oak contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations. Alternatively, see our FAQ page which covers many of our most commonly asked questions about working with oak.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
We have just had a green oak porch constructed and I have applied 2 coats of Fiddes high build wood oil and have made the mistake of not applying a clear preservative first. Is this a “panic situation” your advice would be welcome. Thanks. Stuart
Hello Stuart,
Unfortunately you will not the able to add a preservative now with out removing all the current finish first. That said its not the end of the world. The Fiddes will repel moisture which is the biggest cause of mould and mildew.
It would be fair to say the protection of the wood will be some what reduced with out the preservative however if you allow the oil to do its job over the winter months, it will wear naturally, and then when you feel the wood is ready, wipe down with White spirits or lightly sand and then see if the oil has worn away enough to accept a preservative, you may need to wait a little longer, if it doesn’t just keep an eye on the woods overall condition and try again after a few months.
I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please do let me know.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello Samantha,
My partner and I have purchased a small oak barrel with the intention of it being signed as a guest book for our upcoming wedding. As of now, the barrel is untreated. Our initial idea was to have guests use fine-tipped sharpies to sign it at our wedding and then stain and wax the wood afterwards. However, would the sharpie ink bleed through the natural wood? Is it best to stain the wood first before signing and then wax it afterwards? What would be your recommendation. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
Sincerely,
Kris Kucharik
Good Morning Kris,
I am sorry that I have not got back to you sooner. If you want to stain the barrel, you should this before the wedding. Sand the wood to give good base for the stain and you could have a look at the Morrells Light Fast which is a solvent based stain, it will give good colour to the wood and will not raise the grain. Test areas are strongly recommended and avoid the exposure to moisture before you are able to seal it.
Once you have all the signatures you can then seal with either a wax such as Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish or a for more durability a Varnish Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish Take care when applying not to over work, I don’t think the sharpies will smear but just in case.
Congratulations on your wedding and if you get chance I would love to see some photos of the Barrel.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi
I have just had oak work tops fitted in my kitchen and really like the look of the bare untreated oak, I don’t want to put Danish oil on them as it gives a yellowish tint.
What would be the best thing to use that also offers good protection from water etc.
Thanks
Julia
Good Afternoon Julia,
There are two products that you can have a look at, they are similar products and aimed at leaving the wood looking as natural as possible whilst still giving a moisture repellent protective finish.
The first is the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural this has a slightly high solvent content than the alternative and so will dry a little quicker. And the second is the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw which is made with more natural products and less solvent.
Both contain a minute amount of white pigment to counteract the darkening that you get with a clear product and leave the wood looking as untreated as possible. It is important to try a test area first, as you are applying to Oak, which is a hard wood, so a tighter grain that is less willing to absorb the oil and can sometimes result in a slight white residue on the surface, some people like this some don’t.
If you take a look at these and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions at all.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, I have made an outdoor table from new green oak sleepers which have been drying for a few months, I want to keep a natural look to the surface which has been sanded. I have read lots on this site and see that you generally recommend preservative before oil for outdoor use but I am wondering if this is safe for surfaces where food will be consumed or will it be OK once dried and oiled over? I have kept the whole thing covered with a tarpaulin but some rain got to it yesterday and it has left brown watermarks on the surface which I guess are tannin marks, will oil prevent this once I get it coated? Also as the the oak is dry externally but obviously still holding plenty of moisture inside, will it be able to escape once oil is applied? Looking in the local DIY shop last week there was no sign of Osmo products which you mention a lot but I saw Ultimate Hardwood Furniture Oil with UV filter made by Cuprinol, do you have an opinion on its suitability?
Hope you don’t mind so many questions but I would appreciate your opinion as you sound like you know what you’re talking about and other sources of advice seem contradictory, many thanks in advance, Phil.
Hello Phil,
Ask as many questions as you want, I am happy to help. Green Oak is always tricky as it does take a long time to dry, as a guide one year per 1 inch thickness, and I would not recommend applying anything until the wood is much more dry. You are effectively sealing in the moisture. Oils will allow some of the moisture to disperse but will slow down the drying process considerably and can cause long term problems with the wood. Covering with Tarpaulin will also slow down the natural drying process of the wood.
Often with green wood it is about allowing the wood to weather naturally and so accepting that the wood will change shape or colour as it weathers and dries. So that what you end up with when the wood does dry is a unique.
Once the wood is dry this is the time to apply a coat of preservative followed by two coats of exterior oil. Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil is suitable for use on your table and although does not specify ‘food safe’ will be fine once dry.
I hope that helps and if you have any questions or need help with ordering please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, I’ve just bought a 12 year old house in the Lakes, so there is a lot of water in the air, with picture windows in large light oak frames. These were originally treated with Osmo Oil but have not been maintained and there is now significant weathering and quite deep blackening in the grain in places. Can these be restored, which would be our preferable option, or do we have to resign ourselves to painting or a dark stain? Thanks, Peter
Good Morning Peter,
You may be able to save them yet. Osmo do a great Reviver Gel >>> Osmo Wood Reviver Gel which with a bit of elbow grease can restore the wood to its natural condition when it has silvered. The blackening you have is likely to be the result of water ingress or the natural process of oak and its tannins. And this can be sanded off or wiped over with Methylated Spirits and this will be the problem area, as removal will depend on how deep the staining goes.
If you manage to get the wood back to its original condition then this opens up your options for a treatment of your choice. And if you are looking to use Osmo Oil then the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is a clear or lightly coloured oil that will slow down the silvering process and with regular maintenance can keep the wood looking fresh.
Or alternatively you could have a look at the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain which comes in a range of colours and should you have some minor marking still on the wood this can help to mask it.
Both are available in sample sizes and I would always recommend test areas first to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please feel free to get in touch via our contact page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi we have a large amount of oak beams inside and oak doors currently treated with 4 -5 coats of liberon tung oil. I was wanting to look at finishing all the oak with a harder wearing coating. ( had lacquer suggested and osma oil.) Iv also have large amount outside that I was going to treat with osmo oil is that the best thing. Thanks dan
Good Afternoon Dan,
Thank you for getting in touch. For the most durable finish you could consider a varnish Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish this is surface sealer that will be hard wearing, comes in a range of of sheens and is non yellowing and low odour.
For a more natural look and feel but still with very good durability you could have a look at the Osmo Polyx Oil this soaks into the surface of the wood and protects, it does have the benefit of being easier to maintain or repair down the line. Just two very thin coats is required for this product and so a little goes a long way.
Both products will darken the very slightly to give what we call the ‘wet look’.
If you take a look at both products and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions. Always try a test area first to ensure that you like the finish that will be achieved.
Kindest Regards Samantha.
Hi, your website is excellent and I have gotten great guidance! I would like your opinion on one matter…I am fitting an oak stairs and I really love the colour of the natural oak before application of a laquer…I feel the laquer yellows the colour but I prefer the natural grey tone to the wood. What is the best way to preserve the natural colour on a stairs?
Good Afternoon Ciara,
Thank you for coming to Wood Finishes Direct with your question. Many clear products will highlight the natural tones of the wood and enhance the grain. For a treatment that leaves the wood looking as untouched as possible but still giving a protective and durable finish you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Natural it contains a minute mount of white pigment that counteracts the darkening impact.
This product is available in sample sizes and I would recommend a test area first to ensure you do like the colour and finish that will be achieved. if you take a look at that product and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi,
Excellent informative web site!
I hope that you can help. We are building a porch which is clad in new oak with new oak posts. I have experimented with Sadolin woodstain and found that we prefer their heritage oak finish on this new oak. We also have a gable with 60 year old rough sawn oak barge boards and vertical planking which I’m guessing had been creosoted. We also have a new gable that will have new rough sawn oak fitted. I am attempting to see if we can end up matching the oak colours as near as possible on all three areas.
I have sanded an off-cut of the 60 year old oak to remove most of the black colouring which has revealed grey oak. I have then tried the Osmo Wood Reviver Gel that you recommended which has worked well so that we now have a light oak colour on the 60 year old oak.
I would like to know what you would recommend that we use on the 60 year old oak to both preserve it and colour it up to something approaching the Sadolin heritage oak colour and if the Sadolin product is suitable for sawn oak or whether there is something else that we should be using to both preserve and colour it.
Many thanks,
Ian
Good Afternoon,
You could try a test area with the Sadolin to see if the match is close. It is likely that the rough sawn wood will absorb more of the Sadolin than expected and this could impact on the colour, its really difficult to tell until you do a test area. But if you are able to use the same product this is the best option for getting the colours as close as possible.
I appreciate that it has taken some time to get back to you and you may have completed your project but if you do need any advice please feel free to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello and thank you for this informative site. In the 90’s my husband and I represented an artist in Russia who carved magnificent sculpture from (mostly) fallen, dried oak that he gathered by hand from a forest nearby. We sold many of his works over the years and now have about 20 or so remaining that we have not “treated or touched” since we first received them.
We are ready to present them in an art show / sale and would like to know how to best “clean” the works. Other than a gentle dusting. We know the artist told us all those years ago to do something like wipe them gently with a soft cloth and then use something (maybe tung oil?) to “quench the wood’s thirst”….. but this is a vague memory and my notes on the artist are difficult to find in time for this exhibition. He has since died.
He created sculpture out of other woods native to the forest near his home, as well.
I would dearly appreciate any thoughts you might have to share with me and if you would require photographs of a few pieces before being able to make a reply I can provide them,
Thank you,
Pat M.
Hello Pat,
I would certainly love to see some of the sculptures, photos can be sent to helpme@wood-finishes-direct.com if you get chance.
In terms of how to clean and protect you could have a look at the Barrettine Mould and Mildew Spray This will eliminate any fungal spores before applying an oil. Wood oils are quite versatile and can be used on a number of different wood types. I highly recommend doing a test areas first, and with each sculpture if it is a different wood, to ensure that you like the finish achieved.
Wood oils will darken the wood slightly giving it an almost damp like appearance which will also enhance the natural colour and character of the wood. I hope that helps but if you do have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi,
I am excited to find this website as I have been wondering how to treat our oak front door for years.
The door is very likely as old as the house so 1932. The outside faces north and is reasonably well protected from rain and direct sunlight.
The outer surface is silvery and faded, though not much in the way of black deposits. In places when I draw a finger across the grain it is a little uneven.
I did try sanding it down but the sand paper kept clogging with wax, so I imagine it was previously treated with a wax preparation.
If possible I would like to find a treatment to restore the natural colour and protect it for the future. The inside of the door is in much better condition and a rich mid brown. Again I think it was wax treated.
The door knocker is probably brass and there is no reaction around this, but the letterbox surround, lock and handle are likely black painted iron and there is increased whitening around these. Would you recommend replacing these with brass? I have read that ferrous metals and oak don’t go well together.
Many thanks,
Gavin
Good Afternoon Gavin,
If it is a wax you have on the door then you could first look at removing this with Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover this will strip away all then waxy finish currently on there and you could then consider the Osmo Wood Reviver Gel to restore the wood back to its original colour.
Once the exterior is clean and bare and as you would like it you can then consider which treatment you would like to finish the wood with for the best protection. For coloured oil finishes a recommended product would be the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain colours and protects at the same time. And the darker the colour the more UV protection it will give. And you may be able to find a colour that matches the interior.
It is possible that the wood and metal used for the the lock and handle etc are reacting and I would be happy to take a look if you would like to send in some photos to helpme@wood-finishes-direct.com
I hope that helps and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via a contact page contact us page.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi,
Great website, very informative.
I would be grateful for some advice:
I was forced to cut down a big old oak tree as it was dead and unsafe. Most of the trunk was rotten but we have managed to get some timber from it.
I have about a dozen pieces (approx 1.3m x 250mm x 65mm) that I would like to use as windowsills in a new cottage that I am building now.
As I don’t want to wait ages for them to air dry, what is the best thing for me to do to be able to use the timber straightaway? I know builders often work with green oak, but for windowsills I am concerned that if I use it as it is it will shrink away from all the edges, but am not sure if trying to get it kiln dried is a good idea either (assuming anyone would even do a small job like that!)
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks.
Good Afternoon Debbie,
Green Oak will shrink and move as it dries naturally, it can crack and age and this is why many people like using it but for window sills this could be a problem over time and my advice would be to allow the wood to weather. And as a guide it is estimates that 25mm will dry per year which show just how long it takes for wood to naturally dry.
I do not know if kiln drying is a service that you are able to get as you say but we do not recommend application of anything during this drying process either.
I know that these are not the answers that you may have been hoping for but if there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know.
Kind Regards Samantha
Hi
We have just had European Oak window sills fitted internally and would like to protect and finish them.
From other posts related for window sills it seems that a coat of Osmo Wood Protector 4006 followed by Osmo UV Protection Oil 410 will be ideal for indoor conditions.
Can you confirm these 2 products please?
Thanks Barry
Good Afternoon Barry,
Thank you for your question. The Osmo Wood Protector and the Osmo UV Protection Oil will be the perfect combination for your project. It will ensure the the wood is super moisture repellent and slow down the silvering process if the wood is particularly exposed to sunlight.
The Oil will require just two coats very thinly applied and as with all of our products I do recommend a test area first.
If there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to get back in touch.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi. We have waxed oak fireplace, doors and skirting boards in our kitchen and they are quite a warm yellow toned colour. We want to change the kitchen and the worktop to something cooler toned. Is it possible to change the colour of the oak without painting it. Many thanks
Good Afternoon Louise,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Can you tell me if the wax applied is clear and the yellow tones are the natural colours of the wood highlighted by the wax? Perhaps you could send through some photos to wfdhelp@wood-finishes-direct.com and I could take a look.
Do you mean that you would like a lighten the look of the wood? Other than more wax there is not a great deal you are able to apply over the top as wax will repel most products, so you would need to look at removing all the wax first. This can be done by scrubbing with Barrettine White Spirit which will remove most if not all of the wax. Some sanding may be required.
Once you are back to bare wood this opens up your options for achieving the finish you want and if you can get in touch with some ideas via our contact us page and maybe I can narrow down some options for you.
Best Regards Samantha.
We have recently moved into a 160year old house. The porch has 3 large, expose oak beams. They are quite a dull, dark grey and have several cracks in them.
I don’t mind the colour but would like to know how best to protect them?
Many thanks in advance
Good Afternoon Gabby,
My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. Oak Beams are very durable and hard wearing in their own right. But to give them a little bit of help will certainly prolong their life that little bit more and improve their appearance.
I can recommend the Morrells Tung Oil this will nourish the wood and offer moisture repellent protection to the wood. As this is for exterior Oak beams you can apply up to 4 coats, particularly if the wood is very dry.
If you take a look at this product and I am here to help if you have any questions.
All the Best Samantha.
Fantastic customer support here, thank you!.
I have oak windows in an NE facing extension, originally coated in tung oil I think (2010 when built) they have silvered but unevenly, no blackening that I can see but some splitting. Should I sand back, use preservative and something like the log cabin treatment mentioned a while ago to keep it protected but still allow it to silver further? or do you recommend something else?
Many thanks
Alison
Hello Alison,
For wood that has silvered we often recommend the Osmo Wood Reviver Gel this with a little elbow grease can help restore the wood to its original colour. This could give you a more even base for new application and also colour. When wood has silvered it takes colour in a different way and you may not get the expected finish, even with a clear finish.
Applying a preservative will help to protect the wood from mould, mildew and rot. And then a good quality oil to protect the wood and slow down the silvering process. A popular choice is the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment this is a clear oil that has UV stabalizer.
If you take a look at those products and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions, I am here to help.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi – I have already posted this question but can’t find where on your site I posted it…sorry! Anyway to repeat. We have a 1930s house. We are replacing the door with something new however we still have the original doorstep…..it is oak and I guess it would be 90 years old. It was blackened and knackered looking however I have planed it and sanded it and it now looks really nice and has a really nice colour. What do I do next??? it is a step and needs to be hard warring. I want to keep the colour as it is? the step is under a porch and so while it is outside it does not take the direct rain on it. Help please!!
Good Afternoon Jon,
Thank you for your enquiry. Threshold and doorsteps are particularly prone to wear and tear and we do not have a product specific to this area, however I often recommend Decking Oil as a good option. Decking Oil is designed for use on horizontal surfaces that are exposed and subjected to high traffic, the benefit of using and oil is that it can be topped up very easily when required to maintain that protection.
You could have a look at the Barrettine Decking Oil comes in a clear or coloured finish and a test area is recommended to ensure you like the finish to be achieved.
Or alternatively and as it is just one very small area that needs finishing a sample tin of the Osmo Decking Oil is likely to be sufficient for two thin coats.
If you take a look at the recommendations and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi
I am considering having an Oak countertop for my bathroom sink and some shelves. Will this be OK and how should I protect it? I’d like to get a whitewash look ideally. Is the osmo oil right for htis job? Many thannks
Hi Clare,
Using a wood oil such as Osmo is a good choice as it will protect the wood from moisture and is very easy to maintain and replenish as an when required. There are also a number of oils in the range that will provide the ‘whitewash’ effect that you are looking for. Which product is best depends on how ‘White’ you want the finish to be.
Oils to consider are: –
Osmo Polyx Oil Tints (3040) White. To get a whiter finish, one coat of Osmo Wood Wax Finish Transparent (3111) White, followed by one coat of Polyx Oil Tints (3040) white for durability is an option.
We have an excellent blog post about white wood finishes here which covers this subject in detail. It includes details on which products to use to achieve everything from a subtle whitewash through to an almost opaque finish.
We always recommend trying some samples first on a small test area to check for suitability and final finish.
If you have any further queries, please call or email us and one of our resident wood experts will be happy to answer any questions you may have.
Hi, I’ve got a 250 year old oak slab with the bark still on one edge, I’m planning on using this in the bathroom as a counter top for my sink to sit on . It was cut during winter/spring I’m sanding it at present . I would love to know how to treat this so the wood is nourished and it has a rich gloss finish (kinda so it’s inpervious to damp and water ) help and advice much needed and appreciated
Good Afternoon Lee,
Thank you for your enquiry. Even though the wood was cut a few month ago it is possible that it still has a high moisture content and my advice would be to check this first. Sealing ‘Green’ wood can have a detrimental effect rather than a protective one. Particularly with Oak that is high in tannins.
As wood dries naturally over time it can shrink or crack and will change in appearance, weight and moisture levels. Applying a treatment will stop this natural drying process from occurring holding much of the moisture in. As a guide it will take one year per 1 inch thickness for the wood to air dry.
If it is in fact dry let me know and I can offer some advice on which products will best suit your project.
kind regards Samantha.
Hi , i have a number of oak sleepers that are used in my garden as raised bed (8 ) , they have been in place for about 3 years , i applied a preservative about 2 years ago , the garden is small ( raised beds / patio tiles – no grass ) , when the weather is good the sleepers look reasonable in a grey / silver natural state , but when it rains they look black on not too nice .. would like to apply an oil or stain to show a warm oak look all time .. what would you suggest ?
Hello Carl,
Thank you for your enquiry. My recommendation would be to look at Barrettine Decking Oil or the Manns Premier UV Decking Oil
Although marketed for decking this oil is very versatile and can be used for a wide range of exterior projects. It is likely to absorb a fair amount of the oil, depending on the condition of the wood. And test area can give an indication of this.
The oil will help to keep the wood moisture repellent and so rain will bead up on the surface. Regular maintenance will help to keep the wood looking good.
If you take a look at those products and feel free to get back to me with any questions.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, we have a lovely interior varnished oak table that I was hoping to use outside. The top is stone but the legs and supports are oak. The legs are visible all the way up and the ends of the grain are exposed but vatnished. It has been varnished all over.
I will happily leave it varnished rather than stripping back and using the solutions above, but can I? Is that at all possible.
Is it possible to use outside with just the varnish, should I do anything more. I will likely cover during winter and maybe even just when not in use.
Hello Graeme,
Thank you for your enquiry. An interesting question and one that I can not give a definitive answer to. The varnish applied will be an internal one but will give some short term protection to the wood. And will be protected to some extent for by the table top.
That said my best advice will be to strip the wood back to bare and then use a range of exterior products that include a good quality preservative Barrettine Premier Universal followed by an exterior oil like Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil this will help to make the wood moisture repellent and is also easy to maintain over time.
It is also possible that the stone top needs some sort of sealer as this could be porous. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, I have an oak church pew that I’m considering using as an outdoor garden bench. Any suggestions on protecting it please?
Good Afternoon Jon,
Thank you for your enquiry. can you tell me if the pew has any finish on it currently, such as a varnish or oil? Or are you planning to sand back to bare wood?
Sanding back to bare wood will allow you to apply a wood preservative such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative which will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. You can then apply a top coat product of wood oil such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra and this will slow down the silvering process of the wood caused by UV damage and repel moisture that causes mould and rot. Both products are clear finishes however they will darken the wood slightly to give a ‘damp look’ and I always recommend test areas first.
If you have a look at the products and do feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, I have recently put on 2 unfinished oak internal doors in the house… the Carpenter advice that if it stains I won’t be able to clean it.
He recommended oil but because I have kids and lots of visits usually teenagers in the house I don’t know what’s best if I need to clean it.
Could you please advise what’s the best? Many thanks.
Hello Martha,
There are a wide range of products that can be used on oak doors including waxes, oils and varnishes, each offering advantages and disadvantages. Hardwax Oils such as Fiddes Hardwax Oil and Osmo Door Oil give a protective finish that leaves the wood looking and feeling very natural. They require just 2 thin coats, are easy to apply, clean, maintain and patch repair should the need arise. The beauty of an oil is that if the finish becomes scuffed, lightly scratched, worn or dirty, it is very easy to patch repair the affected area and restore the look and finish of the door.
Alternatively, a varnish such as Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish provides a tougher, more durable finish that is easy to clean but more problematic if the doors become scratched or chipped. Varnishes also give a less natural look and feel than an oil.
I hope that the above helps but if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, I have just sanded our tired white oak toilet seat back to its natural beauty. What finish would you recommend I use on it before fitting it back on the toilet? Thanks. Tom.
This is a really good question!
It does depend on the effect you are after, if you went with a clear finish it will make it slightly darker as if the wood has been wiped with a damp cloth whilst enhancing the natural colour of the wood.
With the toilet seat being in the bathroom where moisture could interfere with the wood I recommend first of all using Osmo Wood Protector 4006. This is a base coat which works with the top coat to help protect against high moisture areas.
The top coat I would then suggest to use is Osmo Polyx Oil. It’s a blend of natural oils and waxes which offers excellent durability and easy application over 2 coats.
The alternative approach would be to use a varnish such as. Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish this is a highly durable varnish that is quick and easy to apply. Varnishes are more durable than an oil but wood oils are easier to maintain and patch repair. We always recommend doing a test area before starting any project to test the product suitability and final finish.
If there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to get in touch.
All the Best Samantha.
I am about to buy a secondhand oak coffee table that has been oiled, I want to return the oak to a lighter colour, how can I do this?
Hello Tim,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Sanding back the wood will return it to its original colour and this is likely to be lighter than it is currently. Sand in the direction of the grain. Depending on how much oil is left on there you could start at an 80 or 100 grit to remove and the finish with 120 grit. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove sanding dust.
Once you are back to bare wood, consider Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044). Both of these products are hard wearing and designed to retain the natural, light appearance of woods such as Oak. Always do a test area in an inconspicuous area before starting any project to test product suitability and final finish.
If you look at these products and have any questions, please feel free to contact us.
hello
i have made tankard out of solid oak should i treat it before use if so what with
dennis
Hello Dennis,
The wood may benefit from two thin coats of Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin (1101) to provide moisture repellency, although long term exposure to moisture could still mark or stain, the Osmo oil is very good at repelling most liquids and can help to prevent staining.
Apply two thin coats and wipe of any surface excess with a clean, lint free cloth in order to give this protection. The oil can be topped up as and when required with a thin maintenance coat, usually annually or when the surface starts to look dull, patchy or tired looking.
I hope that helps and if you have any questions or would like to share a photo with us please feel free to email us on wood@finishes.direct
All the Best Samantha.
Hi there,
We just installed a live edge oak mantel. The piece does not have the bark still on. One quarter of the live edge is a brown colour, while the other 3/4’s has started to gray due to weather. How can I make it a unified brown without losing the rough live edge of the oak and how do I get the browns in the wood to be enhanced without have a shine to it?
Thanks so much!
Good Morning Renée,
You could have a look at the Osmo Wood Reviver Power Gel. This product is designed to return the natural coloration of the wood. If the wood has been grey for a number of years it may require a second treatment. I would try a small test area first to see how it works on your Oak.
Once the wood has been treated with the Wood Reviver Gel, look at applying a Hardwax Oil such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil or Osmo Polyx Oil. These protective wood oils will leave the wood looking and feeling very natural. It comes in a range of sheens including matt and has sample sizes to allow you to try a test area first.
If you take a look at those products and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.
Kind regards Samantha.
I have just brought some Oak untreated ready planed internal window sills. They are going in the front part of the house that faces south. I was like to keep the wooden looking natural, but don’t know which ofthe products to use. I would quite like to use a clear varnish & also protect from the uv rays, scratches etc.
Not sure want to use. Plus one is going into the bathroom which is constantly in use with the family.
What would you advise please?
Many thanks.
Tracy
Hello Tracy,
Thank you for getting in touch. We have some great, durable varnishes that can be used for your windows sills and one that I would recommend is the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish. It is durable and hard wearing but like most interior wood varnishes, will not offer UV protection.
Osmo Uviwax is an interior product that will help prevent UV damage to the wood, it is not as durable as a varnish but will provide protection to the wood.
For Bathrooms we often recommend the use of Osmo Wood Protector to give wood extra protection from moisture and humidity changes. This can be used under the Osmo Uviwax but is not suitable for use as a base-coat under varnishes.
If you have a read up of those products and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions. Always try a test area first.
Kindest Regards Samantha.
Hello
I’m building an gazebo type structure in my garden out of (fairly) freshly sawn green oak. I would like to keep the colour rather than it going grey. as per your guide above, I have the preservative and the osmo 420. I noticed that it says on the tin that the wood should be weathered 6 weeks or so before application of osmo. The wood is currently in the garage. Should I build the structure, leave for a bit, then preserve and oil? Or should I preserve and oil before I build? Thanks, Andy
Hello Andy,
Green Oak is a popular choice for exterior projects, however because it is a fairly fresh cut wood, ‘green’, it will have a high moisture content and I would not advice any application at this stage. If you seal the moisture in to the wood it will still develop mould and mildew at a later date. Many people like the green oak as its natural drying process can cause the wood to develop cracks and natural features, this adds to the character but is unlikely to effect the strength of the wood. If you leave too dry out in situ it will naturally silver also.
If you wish to apply treatment you will need to let the wood dry out either in your garage, which will help to prevent silvering if out of the sun, or in the garden over a few months, which will result in the wood changing colour.
Once the wood is dry you can then look at applying a preservative to help prevent mould, mildew and rot and then a top coat of oil to give a moisture repellent finish. Many people will leave green oak untreated to allow it to continue to naturally change over time.
For more advice feel free to call or friendly team on 01303 213 838.
kind regards Samantha.
I just installed oak butcher block countertops. They are looking more orangey and clashing with the floors. Is there a foodsafe way to bring out the browns? or to keep it light looking as it does when raw? I would appreciate any help on getting away from the orange look mineral oil is bringing out.
Good Morning Jen,
Clear oils will often bring out the natural tones of the wood and for many types of wood this will be orange. The Polyx Oil Raw is often the answer and can leave the wood looking and feeling very natural. I would recommend a test area and this product is available in sample size.
Another option would be the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural which is a very similar to the Raw.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi
My external oak door has blackened & split, I used yacht varnish.What can I do, will it be best to paint the door.
Hello Carole,
If the wood has blackened this is likely to be mould spores that have resulted from water ingress, although without seeing photos its difficult to diagnose for sure. You can send photos to wood@finishes.direct and I will be happy to take a look. It sounds likely that the wood will need to be stripped back to bare wood and treated with a mould and mildew cleaner such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner to remove the mould and kill off the spores in the surface grain of the wood. If the black staining is very bad a second treatment may be required followed by a light sanding.
Once back to bare wood I recommend applying a good quality wood preservative such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative or an alternative wood preservative treatment to help prevent mould and mildew from returning. Once dry, the wood preservative should be over-coated with a suitable exterior door finish. For more advice on this feel free to email me to let me know what look you would hope to achieve.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, we have an oak staircase that I need to seal what would you recommend using? I would like to keep the natural look, need it to be hard wearing as have a large family. The treads are being carpeted so it’s just the hand rails and spindles. Thanks in advance
Hello Rebecca,
There area number of options but as a starting point you could look at Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. This product gives a tough, durable finish but leaves the wood looking and feeling very natural. It just requires two thin coats applied to bare wood. Fiddes Hardwax Oil will darken the wood slightly and give what we call the ‘damp look’. You can get an idea of how the finish will look by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the wood.
An alternative option is Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural. This product is designed to leave the wood looking and feeling as Natural as possible with little change in colour.
I hope this helps and please always try a test area first.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi
We have just had a new untreated Oak window seat fitted in a bathroom and looking for best options to treat it. Some advice has been to use a lacquer but we want something that maintains the natural wood but will withstand the warm moist bathroom environment and not get marked with the occasional wet item being placed on it. We have used oil on an oak kitchen worktop in past but found it marked quite easily. We’re getting conflicting advice lacquer, oil, liquid wax …. Fortunately we have some off cuts to test with.
What would you recommend?
Thanks
Hello Mark,
Hard Wax oils are a good option. When applied correctly, two thin coats will give an effective moisture repellent, natural finish to the wood. For bathrooms we do recommend a coat of Osmo Wood Protector (4006) to help protect timber exposed to humidity, temperature and moisture changes. One coat of this followed by two thin coats of the Osmo Polyx Oil.
If you find that the oiled surface is marking easily it could be an indication of over or under application. A simple oil test can determine this. If the oil is absorbed then a refresher coat can be applied to increase durability. If it does not absorb it could be that over application has resulted in the oil drying on the surface rather than soaking in. When this happens, protection is reduced as the wax and oil on the surface rather than in the wood is actually more easily scratched, marked or stained.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions I am here to help.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi Sam,
I’ve got a white oak table with a few darkish brown marks on it and some slight black water damage from condensation on a glass. Two of the marks are where some olive oil was dripped and not wiped off properly during dinner. They’re not exactly horrific, but they’re annoying me! Do you think necessary to have to remove the finish and re-apply a new one or is there a trick that I’m missing? I live in an apartment and am reluctant to do some sanding inside. I would be ok dropping the shade of the table slightly, it would probably then match the oil marks. I can then keep topping up over the years to prevent further marks appearing. But, ideally, I’d rather keep it as light as possible! Any help would be massively appreciated.
Hello Darren,
It will depend on what the current finish is on the table. An oiled finish can be patch repaired by simply sanding back the effected areas and re oiling with the same or a similar oil. If the table is varnished this is unfortunately a harder issue to repair and will need fully sanding back to bare wood in order to remove the marks and re varnish or oil. Feel free to let me know if you know which product is on the table or if you have any further questions. Or you can email me direct at wood@finishes.direct
Many Thanks Samantha.
Thank you Sam. So would you suggest the natural 429 is better to keep the natural freshly sanded look over the clear 420? I could buy a pot of each and test obviously but just wondered on your advice. Thanks again for your help.
Hello. I have just had some new oak sleepers and two 8ft oak gate posts put in my front drive. I have started to sand the gate posts and they finished look is exactly as I desire. How do I treat it and keep it looking as smooth and unfinished as possible? I have looked at previous posts and wanted to check if it’s a coat of wood preserver, 2 coats of osmo extra clear? I read about the white product or something but got a little confused. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hello Ryan,
Yes a wood preservative such as Osmo WR Base coat (4001) or an alternative exterior wood preservative is the best way to help prevent mould, mildew and rot. Once treated and allowed to fully dry, the wood can then be treated with two coats of protective oil to give UV protection and water repellency.
Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra 420 is a clear finish that will darken the wood slightly to give what we call the ‘damp look’ and the natural 429 contains a small amount of white pigment that counteracts the darkening of a clear oil to leave the wood looking more natural in colour. Test areas are vital as the natural is not always suitable for darker exotic hardwoods and may leave a slightly milky looking finish.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know.
Kind Regards Samantha.
We have had some landscaping done with some chunky oak edging (5″ x 10″).
Within weeks we can see some blackening, and also some ‘mould’ appearing
We *do* want to oak to go silvery over time….& do NOT really want to be oiling it every year – any advice, or have we made a massive (expensive!) mistake?!!
thanks!
Hello Mike,
To tackle the mould you are getting I recommend using Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner. This will remove the black that has resulted from water ingress.
Once clean and dry an oil will be the best option. However regular top ups are the best way to slow down the silvering process of the wood. Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is a clear oil that has UV filters in it and is a good option if you want a clear finish. It will also help to make the wood water repellent. I would also recommend Osmo WR Base Coat, a preservative that helps to prevent mould, mildew and rot.
To slow down the silvering process even more applying a colour will help, even a light colour will improve the UV protection and the darker the colour the more protection in the same way as the higher the factor in sun cream the more protection you get.
An alternative option is Sikken Cetol Filter 7 Plus which is a coating system, much like an exterior varnish. This product requires less maintenance than an oil, typically 3 to 5 years depending on location and weathering, but must be maintained to ensure that the coating stays intact. Unlike a wood oil, if the coating starts to crack, flake or peel, the old finish must be removed and the wood prepared again so that a new finish can be applied.
If you have a look at the recommendations and let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, we have just had some oak worktops installed in our kitchen. When they arrived they were a lovely light colour. We used Rustins clear worktop oil and they have now gone a dark brown colour. Although I know some people like this, I was really after a very light un-oiled look. Is there anything I can do to change them? Thank you! Jas
Hello Jas,
Clear Oils will often darken the wood to give what we call the ‘wet look ‘ to avoid this we have a product called Osmo Top Oil in natural.
The Natural has a small amount of White Pigment that will counteract the darkening effect. You will need to remove the current oil and this can be done by scrubbing with a White Spirits such as Barrettine White Spirit and a Woodleys Finishing Pad.
Once back to bare wood then two very thin coats of the Natural Oil can be applied, a test area should be carried out first. If you have a read up of the product and feel free to get back to me.
Kind Regards Samantha.
We have two oak pillars supporting an overhang on our courtyard and the pillars have not been kept protected. There are cracks, greying and areas where the previous stain/sealant? remain. Please, how can we clean these up and refinish them?
Also have a lovely oak table that has water rings on it from flower containers. How can we restore the table top?
Thank you.
If you have already covered these questions on the website I apologise for repeating them, my eyes have got rather tired trying to scan the Q & A.s …..
Hello Avril,
No worries, I am always happy to help. Osmo Wood Reviver Power Gel is a great product for restoring the colour of greyed wood. Its difficult for me to recommend a product to further protect the wood without knowing what is currently on there. If you would like to email me directly at wood@finishes.direct with the details of the current finish and how you would like the wood to look and I can make some suggestions.
For the table, water marks from pots can be difficult to remove as a concentration of water has repeatedly effected the area and staining may be deep, sanding may be the only option. Please send some pictures and we may be able to assess this further.
All the Best Samantha.
We’ve used Osmo on white oak before and have been thrilled with the results. We would like to use it on a red oak table top, but we are unsure of what the oiled red would look like with the clear or natural Osmo. Will this be too red or too dark? We want something very natural and pale. I was considering the white tint Polyx, but would that make the red have a pink tint after a few applications? Thanks for the help!
Hello Joseph,
It would be fair to say that a clear oil is likely to enhance the natural tones of the wood and so may well bring our the red tones that you have in the Oak. Wiping a damp cloth over the bare wood will give an indication of what the wood will look like. It is definitely worth getting some sample sachets to try first as even the white oil may pull out some natural tones of the wood.
Try some test area and get back to me if you have any further questions.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi Sam
Great website!
I am building an outdoor kitchen area and was considering installing solid oak worktops to match adjacent sleepers and posts. I have treated other areas with preserver and Osmo oil clear but appreciate the horizontal work tops are likely to suffer more from water / sun exposure. Any suggestions on best products to use?
James
Hello James,
This is still likely to be your best option because of the ease of maintenance and repair. You are right in that the horizontal surface is more susceptible to damage and faster wear and tear and so more regular top ups with the oil when the wood needs it will help to protect for longer.
You could go down the route of applying a varnish and this may certainly offer longer protection and better durability, maintenance is more difficult however and should the seal brake or the varnish flakes, due to moisture getting underneath, it can be harder to repair, with the need to strip back and start again. One option would be the Sadolin Classic Wood Protection which comes in a range of colours.
If you have a read up of the products and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Thanks Sam
I have been advised to use oxalic acid to remove the black marks – is that something you would recommend?
Can I apply the UV Protection Oil Extra direct to the oak (omitting the Preservative?)
Can I order it online and what is the delivery time?
Steve
Hi Sam,
I have just erected a fresh sawn, heartwood oak, post and beam veranda. It looks amazing but has got some black ‘rub’ marks from the fork lift,etc. How can I clean these marks off?
We want to retain the fresh sawn look and resist the oak from silvering. What’s the best way/product to use?
Thank you in anticipation
Steve Griffiths
Hi Steve,
If the black marks don’t come off with using a medium or course Woodleys Finishing Pad then you may have to consider sanding those off.
For protection, with the natural look I would recommend a coat of Osmo WR Base Coat (4001) first and then two thin coats of the UV Protection Oil Extra . You will need to carry out a test area first as you are applying to heart wood. I would normally recommend the Teak Oil as it is slightly thinner and more suited, however it does not have UV filters in it.
For even better protection from the sun, applying a product that has a small amount of pigment will increase the UV filters. So for example Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
If you have a read up of the product and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.
All the Best Samantha
Hi, I have just bought two pieces of 30mm thick waney oak to use as internal windowsills in a bright kitchen, the oak table and doors are a light oak. Could you please advise what would be suitable to seal and protect. Is the bark edge likely to fall off? Thanks
Hello Colin,
Thank you for your enquiry, you could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin (1101) which is ideal for hardwoods such as Oak. It will give a natural look and feel to the wood, whilst helping to protect and make the wood water repellent. It will darken slightly to give what we call the ‘damp look’. You can get an idea of how the oiled wood will look by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the bare wood.
The bark edge should not fall off but it is better to avoid allowing the wood to dry out too much. I hope this helps, if you have a read up of the product and feel free to let me know if you have any questions. Always try a test area first.
Kind Regards Samantha.
What’s the best varnish for oak stairs
Hello,
You could have a look at the Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish for stairs. It is a clear, non yellowing varnish that is durable and hard wearing. It is available in sample sizes and a test area is always recommended first.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, we are wondering the best way to seal our oak kitchen island countertop. We want a matte finish with a very light natural oak look. I want it to be very durable, of course, and easy to maintain. Could you let me know the best way to do this? I would like to to be very waterproof, not shiny, and not orange! I was looking at the Osmo Top Oil Natural. Is that a good idea? I’ve read that that requires a base coat of the Osmo Wood Protector. Is that true? Will it darken the color of the wood? Thanks so much for your help!
Hello Kelly,
My apologies for not getting back to you sooner. You are considering the right products for sure. The Osmo Wood Protector and the Osmo Top Oil will give durability to the wood, helping to make it water repellent. It is easy to apply and maintain and we have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel with hints and tips for application methods.
The Top Oil will darken the wood to give what we call the ‘wet look’ and you can get an idea of this buy wiping a damp cloth over the bare wood. If you find this to be too dark then you could consider the ‘Natural’ in the Top Oil range, this has a small amount of white pigment in it to counteract the darkening effect.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get back in touch. Always try a test area first.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, can you tell me the best way to clean untreated oak doors? I want to wax them but before that need to clean off grubby prints from the babies! Thanks!!
Hi Nick
I’m hoping to buy an oak veneer or oak table – if funds allow (!) – table. Several of the models I’m interested in are oiled, but I don’t like the colour. Can I apply varnish / lacquer on top without sanding? I’m trying to achieve a slightly warmer and darker look than light oak.
Thanks
Tricia (in London)
Hello Tricia,
It is not viable to apply a varnish over an oiled finish as there will be adhesion problems. If you do not want to remove the current oil you could have look at a tinted wood oil such as Fiddes Hardwax Oil Tints or Osmo Polyx Oil Tints. These products can be applied over an existing oil, although its important to carry out a test area first. This will show you the colour that will be achieved and if the wood will accept the oil without any reaction to the current finish.
If you have a look at the product and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi,
I am wondering what to do with some ‘green’ oak that has got some timber decay and would like some advice please. I have an external timber staircase and balcony which is constructed from green oak, in 2010. It was never treated with anything originally. It is now suffering from timber decay and beetle attack. Can you recommend anything to slow the process of decay and prolong the life of the wood? I understand that the most affected timber will have to be replaced/repaired. It has silvered nicely and I would like to keep that aesthetic if possible.
Thanks.
Hello Rob,
Freshly cut green oak is unlikely to take any treatment effectively, it will simply be too wet. If yours has weathered for 10 years then you are likely to be at a point where you can apply a treatment.
The first thing to start with is a preservative and one of our most popular is the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative. This preservative will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. It won’t kill current infestations and for this you may need a specialist treatment or the Barrettine Woodworm Killer
If you have a read up of products and feel free to come back to me if you have any questions.
All the Best Samantha.
Please Help! I have (had?) a pale, stripped oak school desk that is very precious to me, and my husband randomly decided while I was away that it was “looking a bit pale and flaky” and wiped it down with sunflower oil. Yes, you read that right. Sunflower oil.
It is now a hideous orangey-tan colour, with darker patches here and there. Is there anything I can do to save my desk?
Hi Tessa,
Naughty Husband! did the desk have any other treatment on it originally? If not then you could try wiping the surface down with a lint free cloth dampened with a quality white spirit such as Barrettine White Spirit. This should dissolve the sunflower oil and enable you to wipe it off with an absorbent rag or towel. Lightly sanding the desk is an alternative but the whole desk will probably need to be done.
Carry out a test area first, if there is anything from the original state of the desk that you do not wish to remove then take care with the spirits. Or if you are unsure feel free to send me a photo to wood@finishes.direct and we can go from there.
All the Best Samantha.
I have built flower beds in the garden with upright and flat laying oak beams. They are untreated and I was surprised by how good the garden looks! They have been in over winter and are now turning gray and developing dark areas. Having put so much work in I’m now paranoid about the wood rotting and not lasting for the years and years I’m hoping to stay in the house.
Does anyone have any suggestions on whether or not I should perhaps pull back the soil and line the beds with plastic to keep the soil/moisture away from the wood.
And also am I write in thinking the best way to now treat the wood would be with a fungicidal wash, then perhaps a restorer to bring back some of the colour, then with a clear coat, then a uv protection? I’d love to upload a pic but I can t 🙁
Hello Jamie,
Its a common question and there is no right or wrong way to protect the wood, just giving the wood the best chance possible is is better than doing nothing at all. So a membrane will help for sure. Nearly all wood damage is the result of moisture ingress into the wood. This causes mould and mildew and long term it causes rot. The membrane will keep most moisture away from the wood surface, however can cause an issues if moisture gets trapped behind the membrane. This is likely to be far less than when there is direct contact with the soil however.
Also treating the wood with a wood preservative will help to prevent mould mildew and rot. Soaking the ends in the preservative for an hour or two will ensure that the end grain is well protected. And a top coat of the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra will help to protect against silvering and give extra water repellency to the exposed areas of the wood. This oil only requires very thin application.
Keep the oil topped up regularly will help to maintain the wood. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions or would like to send any photos the email address is wood@finishes.direct FAO Sam.
All the Best Samantha