Everyone has heard of wood preservers but what are they, why are they so important and how do they work?
Although wood is an amazingly versatile and durable material, it can be susceptible to deterioration especially where mould, algae, fungi and wood-boring insects are likely. The best way to protect and preserve wood, including timbers that have been tanalised or pressure-treated is to use a wood preservative.
In past years, treatments such as creosote and engine oil were used to preserve exterior timber, however, as a greater understanding of the toxic nature of these products became known many were banned or restricted for commercial use only by strict government legislation. Thankfully, todays domestic wood preservers are safer for both the user and environment.
Types of wood preservative
Most wood preservatives nowadays are manufactured with similar ingredients due to the government led restrictions, however the formulas and the strength of those ingredients do vary. In layman terms:
- Clear preservers help retain the natural appearance of the wood
- Coloured preservatives act as a dual purpose treatment and stain that change the colour of the timber
- Solvent-based formulas have been around longer and are known for their penetrative properties
- Water-based treatments confirm to strict V.O.C (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations being imposed by UK, European and Worldwide governments, making them safer for the environment
Why use a wood preservative?
In short, wood preservers help extend the useful life of wood by preventing wood rot and decay caused by mould, algae, fungi and wood boring insects. Interior and exterior wood that has been preserved, treated and maintained can last for many 100s if not 1000s of years, making it a very eco-positive option.
How do wood preservers work?
The key ingredients of wood preservers are biocides and insecticides with the most commonly used being Permethrin. Permethrin is an insecticide in the pyrethroid family. Pyrethroids are synthetic chemicals that act like natural extracts from the chrysanthemum flower. Other common ingredients include Iodo propynyl Butylcarbamate and Tebuconazole. Most modern wood preservers are safe for humans, animals and plants when dry, meaning that they can be used on sheds, fences, wooden trellis, dog kennels, stables, joinery and more.
Are wood preservers an all-in-one solution?
Although wood preservers are great at protecting wood from biological threats, they only offer limited weather protection and direct contact durability. Some wood preservers contain a small amount of wax which means that rainwater will initially bead and run off treated wood. Surfaces treated with just a wood preservative however, will likely need re-coating every couple of years. Ideally, wood that has been treated with a preserver should also be treated with a suitable top coat such as an wood oil, wood paint or wood varnish. These top-coat products seal in the preserver and provide protection against weathering and wear from direct contact.
If overcoating a wood preservative with a water-based paint or varnish, it’s important to select a preserver that does not contain wax.
5 of our top selling wood preservers
Although we sell dozens of wood preservatives, here are just a few of our best selling products.
Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver
Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative offers microporous protection against wood rot, fungi, decay and mould as a deep penetrating solvent-based formula with wax and resin ingredients that help with water repellency. Due to this we only recommend using a solvent-based oil, varnish, stain or paint as a top coat if you wish, as water-based top coats will not adhere to the wax and resin base. Available in clear and an attractive range of wood tone colours.
Customer Review – Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver
The product is easy to apply, provided you don’t overload the brush and soaks into the wood. The boards on the house had two coats 3 years ago and still look good with little sign of green fungus (shady side). My neighbour has now decided to use it on his property.
Ronseal Total Wood Preservative
A highly penetrative, solvent-based formula Ronseal Total Wood Preserver is perfect for use on all exterior timbers including garden sheds, fences, joists, doors and window frames.
Customer Review – Ronseal Total Wood Preservative
Used for both my deck and my fence. Good coverage and easily applied using a brush. Natural colour which brings out the grain. Would recommend.
Cuprinol 5 Star Complete Wood Treatment
Available in clear only, Cuprinol 5 Star Complete Wood Treatment is a water-based, low odour and low VOC wood preserver specifically formulated for the treatment of interior timber. Deep penetrating formula ensures long lasting protection against insect attack, re-infestation and fungal decay.
Customer Review – Cuprinol 5 Star Complete Wood Treatment
I ordered this product as I needed to apply a thin coating that got absorbed readily on old interior timbers and new Oak beams alike. Little evidence of any staining which was important. Applied via a spray nozzle and also a brush. Low odour and lasted a long time.
Osmo Wood Protector (4006)
A wood protective treatment that is free from biocides and preservatives. Osmo Wood Protector (4006) is ideal for treating wood in high moisture areas, such as wet rooms, kitchens and bathrooms. Especially suitable for woods that are susceptible to blue stain, such as Pine.
Customer Review – Osmo Wood Protector (4006)
I can only say that I needed an undercoat to protect the bathroom wood door from steam, moisture and similar. So using the Osmo brand made sense before using Osmo oil.
Sadolin Quick Drying Wood Preserver
A clear water-based wood preserver suitable for new and bare timber Sadolin Quick Drying Wood Preserver is perfect as a pre-treatment before applying a wood stain, paint or other wood finish. Provides excellent protection for interior and exterior joinery against wood destroying fungi and blue stain.
Customer Review – Sadolin Quick Drying Wood Preserver
A great product that goes on easily. It’s protecting my log cabin even before I get round to getting the top coat on. Good preparation should result in a long life.
Top wood preserving tip!
All wood, new and old should be treated with a fungicidal wash or multicide wood cleaner before treating with a wood preserver. Why? Wood only needs to get wet or damp once for mould and algae spores to establish themselves in the wood grain. This can happen at any time in the transit or storage of the timber or the finished article including sheds, fences and decking boards. Although wood preservers will help to prevent mould, algae and fungi establishing itself on the wood, they are not always effective at killing off already established spores within the timber.
For this reason, we always recommend that all wood is initially treated with a fungicidal wash or mould and mildew cleaner to kill off any existing spores in the wood grain before applying a preserver.
Want to know even more about wood preservers?
For more information about wood preservers and their uses, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations. Alternatively, see our wood preserver FAQ page which covers many of the most commonly asked questions about wood preservers.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
I’m putting in an external door and door frame to my garden office that are both untreated timber (solid core fire door blank, and untreated pine for the frame). What would be your best recommendation for a wood preserver and top coat/s in this instance?
Hi Adam,
Please could you pop this enquiry over on our contact page as we will require some further information to recommend the best products for your project.
regards – Alison
I need your advice. Unfortunately, I made beginner’s error and I used Barrettine premier wood preserver for the inside of my log cabin. I didn’t read the instructions thoroughly and it says for external use only. I later read that only water based preservers should be used on the inside of a log cabin. Do you have any advice?
Hi Andrew, Solvent-based wood preservers are for exterior use only, that said, if the shed is only used for storage, it can’t do any harm. If you use it is a potting shed or a space where you spend a lot of time then I would recommend overcoating the preserver with a solvent based decking oil (Barrettine). This will make the wood completely plant and animal safe once dry.
Hope that helps-Alison.
I have a pre treated pergola that I would like to protect. Which product would you recommend to keep the natural look of the wood?
Hi Martin,
Please have a look at the Fiddes High Build Wood Oil; https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/fiddes-exterior-wood-oil It’s a great, clear product.
Hope that helps! Alison
hello , i am making caravan for my dog , help i need good wood preservative for it, it will be used outside for rest of life help , this is important to me as i am very sentimental with my dog
Hi Bob,
Please consider this product; Barrettine Wood Preservative is perfectly safe to use on any surface that comes into contact with animals when dry. This includes but is not limited to dog kennels, chicken sheds and houses, horse stables and more. It’s important to remember that this wood preservation treatment should be over-coated with a suitable exterior wood oil or decking oil. Animals should only come into contact with the surface of the wood when both the wood preserver and oil have fully dried. I will attach links below for you.
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/barrettine-premier-wood-preservative
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/barrettine-decking-oil
I hope this helps. Please do not hesitate to give me a call should you require any further information.
The facia and soffit of my house were painted with Sadolin Extra Teak 5-year sago. It’s now time for reapplication with the same product. How should I prepare the wood? Will I wash it all down, or should it be sanded?
Also, can a wood preserver be applied to pressure-treated timber? I have just built a lean-to using pressure-treated wood, and before I roof it, I would like to know if I should apply a wood preserver to the pressure-treated posts.
Hi Keith,
Thank you for your enquiry. On the Sadolin Extra, for general maintenance, lightly abrade in the direction of the wood grain and clean using warm water and a mild detergent, then rinse thoroughly with clean water. Once dry, a fresh coat of Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain can be applied.
Pressure treated timber shouldn’t need a wood preserver as it will do the same job as the pressure treatment. If you are not 100% satisfied with the quality of the pressure treatment, you can apply a wood preserver for additional protection.
I hope this helps. Please do not hesitate to give our team a call.
I want to restore old outdoor Ratan furniture. What is the best wood preservative to accomplish this ?
Thank you .
Hi Rose,
Please have a look at the product below. It is packed with active ingredients that protect against all the nasty things such as mould, rot, woodworm etc. It alos has water repellent waxes so that water will bead off the surface.
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/barrettine-premier-wood-preservative
I would also recommend this product if there is any sign of any biocidal growth on the Ratan.
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/barrettine-fungicidal-wash-multicide
We have a cedar gazebo . Would like to use a wood preserver (armour all, brown tint) then use a water sealer ( thompson’s cedar colour.
Is this over kill?
(from Toronto)
Hi Mark,
Any exterior wood will always require 2 products. So in answer to your question this is not over kill at all. The wood preserver is packed with active ingredients that will protect against all the nasty things such as mould, rot and wood boring insects. You will then need to apply a product that will make the timber water repellent so that the rain beads off the surface. Please bear in mind that you will need to use a wax free wood preserver if you wish to use Thompsons water Seal type product.
Please do not hesitate to come back to me should you require any further information.
I am renovating my bathroom which has involved me removing the existing plasterboard on the walls to reveal the wooden studs behind (which are currently spaced 600mm apart). I plan to install additional studs to make them spaced 300mm apart. I have purchased treated CLS timber for these new additional studs. I intend to apply Barretine Premier Wood Preserver to the existing studs (as I don’t know if they are treated or not), as well as the ends that I will cut in the new pressure-treated studs.
My question is: do I need to add wood preserver to the treated CLS wood that I have bought, or is there a chance that the Barretine preserver might interfere with the pressure treatment that was applied to it? I don’t know exactly what chemical was used for the pressure treatment (e.g. tanalith or something else)
My reason to apply preserver is to protect it from the moisture that is present in the bathroom, and also in case a leak was to happen.
Regards
Nigel
Hello Nigel,
Thank you for your question. For interior wood projects in general a preserver is not required, however I can understand the need for some extra precaution in a bathroom. There is an interior preserver available, although this is designed more to repel insect attack, the Cuprinol 5 Star Complete Wood Treatment
Standard preservers are not really ideal for interior because of the Biocides although once cured they are generally not harmful inside, it really is not a recommended option. The interior preserver will not repel moisture and for this you may need to consider something else such as the Osmo Wood Protector which is extremely moisture repellent and ideal for soft woods, this is probably a more suitable product for your project, however if you have any questions at all please feel free to get in touch.
I am building a window above my bathtub that will get wet when rinsing off on the inside and rain and sunshine on the outside…any suggestions on what to use
Hello Brian,
Can you get in touch via our contact us page. If you can include details of the wood type? What appearance you are looking to achieve, for the inside and the outside? And I can narrow down some options for you to take a look at and consider for your project. Perhaps some photos also as these can help with ensuring you get the best products options.
Kind regards Samantha.
We are repairing a wall in a kitchen above a door where there was a water leak. We would like to treat the 2×4 framing with a wood protector – kill any existing fungus/mold and protect future dry rot – before we sheetrock.
Do you have a recommendation on the best treatment for interior framing that will not have the odors of something like Copper Green?
Hello Kevin,
There is an internal preserver that is going to be best for your project, the Cuprinol 5 Star Complete Wood Treatment It will help to prevent re infestation and rot, and is a low VOC product. I can not promise that it has no smell, however it should be minimal and with good ventilation any smells should disperse quite quickly.
if you take a look at this one and I am here to help if you have any questions at all.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi,
I have recently put up a log cabin in the garden and painted it with Sadolin superdec on the outside. I did this before realising that I ought to cover the whole exterior/interior with a preserver first.
Is there any preserver you know of that could be applied over the top of the sadolin and penetrate through?
I was advised that some solvent based preservatives may be suitable on top as they reactive the resins and pigment in the paint?
Or do you have any other solution that doesn’t involve stripping/sanding the paint back? Otherwise I will have to just preserver it internally and hope the best ?
Thank you
Adam
Hello Adam,
I am really sorry to say that you will not be able to apply a preserver now. They always need to be applied first, preservers penetrate into the wood to protect it. The Sadolin will be doing its job by preventing the preserver from soaking into the wood.
We have an interior preserver Cuprinol Five Star Wood Treatment which is suitable for interior spaces, however this is not really going too make a lot of difference to the exterior wood in terms of protection.
I would recommend keeping and eye on the Sadolin to ensure its always in good condition, any wear or tear can be fixed quickly and then an occasional clean with Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner will help to reduce any damage to the wood caused by algae, or mould.
Hello
I’ve a few windows and doors to paint in Sadolin extra durable woodstain. They are in good condition but a couple of threshold steps have been worn bare.
I find that Sadolin have a preparatory wood preservative but only in 2.5 litres, which is far too much; I only require 500ml. Could you recommend a smaller and more affordable preservative that would suit as an alternative.
Many thanks.
Yrs Tony
Hi Tony,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. I would have to say it is always best if you are able to use products from the same brand, as they are designed to be used together with out any issues.
For a wax free alternative in a smaller size, you could have a look at the Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver this is a clear preserver that is likely to be suitable under the Sadolin, however I would have to recommend a test area first to be sure.
All the Best.
Hi, I need to re-preserve a wooden stable/garage block consisting of 4 stables, 2 garages and a tack room. The block is about 20 years old having been re-treated every 5 years with ‘old’ Cuprinol (the good stuf you cannot get anymore! 🙁 ). What would you recommend as a re-treatment this year? I apply with a compressed air spray-gun.
Hello David,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. One product you could take a look at is the Protek Stable Coat ideal for use on out door animal housing or storage areas. It is animal and plant friendly and easy to apply, for great protection.
I am not familiar with the Cuprinol product you are referring to, however if you take a look at this one to see if it might suit your needs and if you have any questions at all feel free to get in touch,
Hello Samantha,
From trees downed for one year I cut off 4 inch thick slabs, one red oak and one hard cherry, I have planed them flat and plan to use them to make end tables for around our fire pit. They are about 20 inches in diameter. They will reside outside. What product would you recommend to protect the wood? I want the natural wood look to be revealed. A light stain may be appropriate. Thanks for your help.
Hello Robert,
I love projects like this, keeps the feel of the garden space very natural. If the slabs have been inside for the last year then I would expect them to be on the way to being dry however, you may find they still need a little longer to reduce that moisture content. As a rough guide it takes around a year for 1 inch depth to dry. This is really dependant on many factors however, including storage, environment and wood type. If you have a moisture meter or can borrow one, I would measure the content first to see where you are at.
Ideally you want the moisture content to be 15% or below, any more than that and you can start to have problems with application, either straight away or fairly soon down the line.
When the wood is dry enough, then an oil is a good product to consider, it is micro porous and so any moisture that is still in the wood can disperse, you still need to wait for the percentage to be low enough however, there is a limit to how much moisture can naturally pass through the oil, the rest can get trapped under the surface and may cause mould or other problems in the future.
Oils will help maintain a natural appearance, are very moisture repellent and easy to apply, clean and maintain. I would recommend a couple of coats of the Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil over one or two coats of a preserver such as the Barrettine Universal Preserver which will help to reduce mould and decay.
I hope this help and do let me know if you have any further questions. We always love to see our customers projects and so feel free to share on any of our Social Media Pages or contact us.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi. Can you advise, if the Barrettine wood preserver is safe (once dry) for use on untreated smooth pine furniture which will be used indoors?
Many thanks
Mandy
Good Afternoon Mandy,
Generally speaking exterior preservers, such as the Barrettine, are safe once fully dried, however its not ideal using them for interior project and they target things that are more likely to occur in an exterior environment.
There is and interior preserver from Cuprinol called Cuprinol 5 Star Complete Wood Treatment and this would be more suited to the type of insects and issues that are common for interior wood and is well worth a look.
Thank you Samantha. I really appreciate your advice and will consider the product you recommend.
Regards Mandy.
I live in a warm humid climate. The crawlspace over the years has experienced growth of surface fungi that is discoloring the joists, and it needs some remediation. The proposals that I have received recommend cleaning the joists with a disinfectant product, which will remove the existing mold but won’t prevent future mold growth. Is there a product that can be applied after the disinfectant treatment that will be substantive to the wood and prevent future fungal growth? How long could I expect the efficacy to last, because once the insulation is replaced, it won’t be possible to treat the joists again.
Hello Tom,
Your best bet is a good quality preserver such as the Premier Wood Preserver you can apply three liberal coats of this to your joists and it will last a few years as I suspect they will be mostly covered.
Dark damp places are a perfect space for mould and algae to grow and so it is likely to return, however a preserver will certainly help to keep it away for longer and protect the wood for a good period of time.
Hi,
a couple of questions specifically regarding the solvent based ‘Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver’
1…is it ok to mix one of the coloured variants with the clear one in order to get a slightly lighter shade of colour? (I’ve just purchased both from you.)
2…can this be applied to damp wood? (I’ve had a fair bit of rain while constructing my new shed!)
Thanks.
Good Afternoon Steve,
Yes, there is no reason why you could not mix the colour and the clear to reduce the tone of the coloured option. I would recommend a very thorough mixing once combined to ensure even colour throughout and perhaps a smaller ratio mix and test area to make sure you are getting the desired result.
However I would not recommend application to wet or damp wood, even wood that appears dry may be holding moisture if it has been subjected to lots of rain over a period of weeks and I would have to recommend a period of a few days of dry weather before considering the application of any products. I know it is not always easy in the UK with the unpredictable weather, however it will ensure a longer life for the product and help to avoid trapping moisture in the wood, which can lead to mould and decay.
I hope that helps with your project, if you do have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
All the best Samantha.
Hello,
I’m building a workshop / shed / log store out of marine ply and tantalised wood. What Would you suggest is the best preservative / treatment for it.
Many thanks
Ian
Good Afternoon Ian,
Thank you for getting in touch, quite a project! I would recommend the Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver as a good place to start. Its a clear preserver and wax free so you are able to apply most top coat products over the top to achieve your desired colour result.
Then for the top coat which will help prevent UV damage and moisture ingress, I would recommend considering an oiled product, such as Barrettine Decking Oil its very versatile and can be used for a wide range of projects as well as decking. The oil penetrates the wood surface and adds colour and protection, whilst still looking and feeling very natural. there is also a clear option in this range and this will still slow down UV damage, although not as much as a coloured oil will.
Another option to consider is the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain again a penetrating oil, however this one comes in sample sachets or tins to allow you to do a test area. And I would recommend this, the wood type, age and condition, will all impact on the result to be achieved and can sometimes be unpredictable.
And the benefit of using an oil is that they are super easy to maintain over time, as the protection or colour fades you are are able to simply clean the surface and once dry apply a fresh coat to top up. Again a test area is recommended for this to ensure the wood is ready for more oil uptake. You do not want the oil to be over applied as this results in drying on the surface of the wood and can mark easily
For more help and advice please do feel free to get in touch with our friendly team.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hello – I have a log cabin that has been treated with a single coat of Blackfriar Wood Protector
What would be a good product to use as a top coat? I’ve been recommended Sadolin Classic but like the colour of the cabin so would something like Sadolin Clear Coat be suitable?
Thank you.
Hello Simon,
The Blackfriars looks to be a preserver that contains wax, this is what gives it the moisture repellent element. This means that not all products will adhere well over the top and I think Sadolin is likely to be one of those products.
As a general rule for exterior finishes, if you want to use a paint, varnish or top coats stain, you need to use a wax free preserver. Preservers that do contain wax can be used as stand alone products for fencing for example or if you are applying an oil over the top.
For Log Cabins I do tend to recommend an oiled finish anyhow, oils penetrate the wood and will not peel and flake down the line. Its fair to say they are not as long lasting as some stains or paints, however the benefit comes with ease of maintenance. No stripping required just apply a fresh coat a clean dry surface when the wood needs it, usually annually or bi annually. I recommend the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment as a good option to consider.
If you did want to go with a Sadolin Extra Durable Clearcoat its best to try a test area first and see if the product will adhere to the surface of the wood, bearing in mind that if it does there will be no guarantees for longevity, or wait for a period of 6 months for the wax to naturally start to wear and then consider application.
Its also worth bearing in mind that application of a clear product, oil or varnish, offer little UV protection whereas the application of a colour, even a very light one will greatly reduce the silvering from UV damage.
All the Best Samantha.
Thank you for the quick and detailed reply.
My tongue and groove pine cladding on my summer house needs treated do I stain a colour first then apply a clear oil such as osmos or barratime? The front sees a lot of sun.
Thanks
Hello Marc,
Great question, you do have a few options for this project. A coloured preserver and clear oil or a clear preserver and coloured oil. Both options will give great protection from the sun and also from the rain. Which to go for can simply be down to the colour you want to achieve.
For a clear preserver I often recommend the Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver because it does not contain wax it is great for what ever top coat you want to apply, oils, paints or stains. It is a clear preserver and so the colour can come from a product such as the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain or alternatively a coloured Decking Oil, perhaps one of the Barrettine Decking Oils if there is a colour with in that range you like.
The darker the colour the better the UV protection, however even with a lighter colour the results will be good and the benefit of oils is they are easy to clean and maintain over time.
For a coloured preserver Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver followed by a clear oil such as the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment.
With the combination of two products you tend to get a better over all level of protection and its only the top coat of oil that will need maintaining for a few years, as long as you look after the finish.
If you want just a one product finish then the Premier Wood Preserver can be used as a stand alone product with 3 coats applied for the best protection.
Kind regards Samantha.
I have moved to a house with a wooden porch which is made of Idigbo timber, installed about 10 years ago. I don’t know how it has been maintained but looks in reasonable condition with no rot. What wood preservative and pre-treatment would you recommend I use? I would like to use a solvent based clear finish.
Hello Alan,
Thank you for your question. Idigbo is a very durable wood in its own right, even with out a treatment applied. A hard wood resistant to decay and is quite stable over time with little movement.
If the wood currently appears to have no treatment applied then a preserver such as the Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver is a good place to start, this is a clear product that will help to prevent any decay or rot, it will darken the wood some, more if it is dry and silvered.
Then you could consider a clear oil, although many products claim they are not suitable for Idigbo, this is because it can often leach yellow when the wood becomes wet and can discolour or stain. However with the age of the wood I would expect you to be able to get an oil of some kind on there, and you could perhaps take a look at a Barrettine Teak Oil as an option, ideal for hard woods and very moisture resistant.
I hope that helps.
Hi what is the best and safe preserver for raised beds
Thanks
Hello Pete,
Thank you for your question, I can reassure you that all preservers are safe once dry. When in their wet state they could damage plant life and be harmful to humans and animals if ingested, so care should be taken at the application stage. However once dry on the wood there is not risk to human, animal or plant life. The only real exception is aquatics, of which no products are recommended other than those specific to aquatic use.
I hope that helps and if you need any further advice or product recommendation please feel free to get in touch.
Hello. My son made me a wonderful garden seat from various wood including some pallet and decking pieces. It needs protecting before I put it in the garden but I have Multi Chemical Sensitivities and cannot cope with voc’s, even when they are just ‘lingering.’ I would hate to use something that would cause problems and result in my not being able to get near the chair!
I would appreciate some advice as to what might preserve this precious seat. TIA
Hello Carron,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Many and most products for the exterior will contain biocodes to help prevent mould. We often recommend a Preserver for exterior woods to help prevent rot and decay from occurring, these are likely to be unsuitable for you health wise.
So you are likely to need to skip this stage of protection, it will leave the wood slightly vulnerable, however a regular clean will make all the difference. To give the wood some protection against the weather a water based paint, may be the best option for you, these tend to be lower in VOC although they are not free of.
Ronseal Garden Paint is a great option to consider and has a lot of colour options and also Cuprinol Garden Shades are probably the best to choose from. Both are available in sample sizes and so if you are unsure then perhaps see how you get on around the samples first.
I would say that once fully cured all products from our website are safe and so even if you went for something with a little higher VOC if you are able to treat and leave for a few weeks before using this may also help.
I can give no guarantees as to what will work best for you, those samples sizes could be a great help for you however and for more help and advice please feel free to get in touch.
Hi.
I’m doing some double garage doors, some cladding over the old window’s and along the side of the garage and a side gate too, I’m using new match tongue and groove board’s, can you please tell me what I need to get and do before I start please. The finished colour will most likely be a summer tan or similar!
Many thanks
Keith.
Hello Keith,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. It would be good to have a product or set of products that you can use for all these projects and I would recommend taking a look at a couple of options, both require a preserver and top coat and both will protect all areas of your wood.
For all exterior projects a preserver is recommended first, this helps to prevent mould, decay and rot in the wood. And you could take a look at the Barrettine Premier Protective Treatment this is a bit like an all in one product that has some biocides in for preserving, and builds to a surface sealer for exterior wood, it is a cost effective option and can be topped up when needed.
And from Sadolin there is the Sadolin Quick Drying Preserver followed by coat of the Sadolin Classic Wood Protection and then one or two coats of the Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain.
This will give longer lasting, better protection to your wood and with occasional care and maintenance can protect for many years to come.
Dear Sir / Madam, I have just purchased a Victorian property that has timber-framed windows. The timber windows are about 20 years old. I have been advised by the surveyor that as the timber windows are constructed of hardwood and in fairly good condition, I should retain and maintain them as oppose to replacing them. However, there is slight damage to the 2 window sills due to condensation. Ideally, I would like to preserve them for as long as I can but which products would you propose. I am inclined to go for the Sadelin range. I can apply the Sadelin classic first; leave it for 16 hours before applying the Sadelin extra followed by a second coat of Sadelin extra after 16 hours. However, the wood surface needs to be cleaned beforehand. What can I used to clean the window frames so that any underlying microbial spores can be destroyed?
Although I’m thinking of using Sadelin as a wood preserver, I am open to suggestions. I look forward to hearing from you. Cheers.
Adam 0745 329 0002
Hello Adam,
Thank you for getting in touch, although it sounds like you have everything in hand. The Sadolin range is a good option to go for with exterior projects. It is very durable and gives a really attractive finish. As you are considering the Sadolin Classic Wood Protection and the Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain , it makes sense to stick with a Sadolin Quick Drying Preserver
I would recommend a good clean with some Methylated Spirits before hand, this will degrease, remove any residue or natural oils in the wood and prep for better adhesion. Test areas are vital to ensure you are getting the desired result.
Hi,
I have a new shed, I thought it had been treated so I stained it. The rain came and soaked right through from outside to inside. Which product do you reccomend to keep the outside waterproof?
Thank you
Good Morning Dawn,
I am sorry to hear that you have had this issue. The structure of the shed, in itself, should keep any rain or moisture out, even before any product is applied and it is worrying that you have had this problem.
When you apply a wood finish product, it is purely to protect the wood and repel moisture from the wood, and so prevent mould and rot from damaging the wood. Paints, stains, varnishes and oils are not designed to seal the structure of the shed, and prevent water from getting in and I would perhaps get in touch with the shed manufacturer or supplier to see why this has happened.
I would also be happy to take a look at any photos you would like to send along with details of the product you have used to the contact us page.
kind regards Samantha.
I have used Cuprinol clear water based wood preserver on some new garage doors.
Can I now use sadolin classic sprit based top coats?
Hello Simon,
If you have used the wax free preserver then yes you should have no issue with application of the Sadolin over the top. As with any advice, I always recommend that test area, to make sure not only that you like the result to be achieved but also that there is no adverse reaction.
All the Best Samantha.
I have an old Japanese cabinet that has been in storage for some time , dampness has affected the dry finish and affected the glue. I can stick the loose joints together and clean the carved ivory and mother of Pearl but need to treat the Wood. I used a wet cloth to remove the dirt but it has removed some of the old finish which was a brown colour I thought was teak. What would you suggest I should use to treat the Wood?
Hello Rory,
This sound like quite a specialist piece. I would be happy to see if I can make some suggestions for you to consider, but I do think I need to see some images of the item and the current colours and condition, in order to make the best suggestions. You can email photos over to me and we can go from there.
Can you suggest a preserver/stain for Tanalised Gates made from soft wood. I’ve used Cuprinol Ducksback (5 year Guarantee) on a previous set of gates and was not impressed at all. These new gates (direct from manufacturer) are waiting for me to apply some sort of treatment before I fit ironwork and hang . Ideal colour would be Forest Green.
Good Morning,
Exterior woods are so exposed to all the element and it can be difficult to give a long life protection even with the best products. Often we recommend oils as these penetrate the wood and will not peel and flake over time. They do not last as long as some other products, however a refresher coat can be applied to clean dry wood, when needed, with out the need to strip back to bare wood.
For a green exterior oil, you could have a look at the Holzol Weather Oil or you can achieve that colour by using a green preserver and then applying a green or clear top coal of the oil.
I hope that helps and for further advice please feel free to get in touch via our contact us page
Kind regards Samantha.
Where do you get rustic oak paint grain ronseal as It does not seem to be in the diy shops
Hello Gerry,
Sorry to say this is not one that we supply either. It may have been discontinued. if you get int ouch with Ronseal directly they may be able to tell you if it is available and if so where you are able to get it from. 0114 2409 469 or enquiry@Ronseal.co.uk
Kind Regards Samantha.