There’s a lot of confusion about how, when and where to use wood oils. It’s no surprise really, when there are so many to choose from: Teak oil, Tung oil, Danish oil, Oak furniture oil and many more, some of which are specifically designed for certain types of wood.
We thought it’d be helpful to take a look at wood oils and how to use them, and answer some of the most common questions on the subject.
First, what is wood oil?
Oil is one of the most popular ways to finish wood. The protection delivered by oils isn’t quite as robust and effective as contemporary wood finishing products like varnishes. But on the plus side, oils tend to bring out the character of the wood better, they’re made of natural products, plus they’re very easy to apply and maintain.
Types of wood oil and how to use them
Danish oil and Teak oil dry faster than linseed oil, which is traditionally used on willow cricket bats. The finish they provide is also much more resilient.
If your wood already has linseed oil on it, it’s best to carry on using it. But if it’s a new project, something that hasn’t been oiled before, steer clear of linseed oil. While Teak oil delivers a slight sheen, Danish oil leaves a more lustrous finish. As you can imagine, Ronseal Teak Oil is a firm favourite with our customers.
- Apply Danish and Teak oil with a soft brush or cloth, being careful not to use too much at a time or it won’t sink in. Sand the wood in between coats with a fine sandpaper. You will probably find 3 or 4 coats of oil is your optimum, delivering the best results.
Standard linseed oil takes ages to dry, at least two or three days per coat, and you need multiple coats when applying it to new wood, normally three to five coats but in some cases, as many as fifteen to twenty coats can be applied. Boiled linseed oil, on the other hand, ‘only’ takes a day to dry. But neither are suitable for outdoor wood.
- Apply the oil with a cloth and rub it in well. Leave a day between coats and once you’re happy with the finish, buff it to a lovely sheen with a soft cloth
Mineral oil is actually a very effective laxative, which you should be able to buy at your local chemist. While it doesn’t give you the same sheen as the other oils we’ve talked about, it’s perfect for things like kitchen chopping boards where you need a non-toxic finish.
Tung oil is thought by many to be the finest natural finish for wood, with its legendary performance and stunning end results. As the Tung Oil website says:
“In over 100 years of development of synthetic resins and varnishes, no one has developed a coating that surpasses the overall performance of natural tung oil.
Tung oil is a drying oil obtained by pressing the seed from the nut of the Tung tree (Vernicia fordii). As a drying oil, Tung oil dries upon exposure to air. The resulting coating is transparent, waterproof, and flexible, a property exploited in most of its applications, which include wood finishing and the composition of traditional oil paints, caulks, mortar and India ink. Tung oil is used on wooden toys as it is naturally non-toxic when dry and is not affected by mould like linseed oil. Tung oil is able to move and flex as wooden surfaces expand and contract with age and changing temperature.
The Chinese have utilised the properties of Tung oil for hundreds, if not thousands, of years for caulking and painting of their boats, treating leather and waterproofing paper and cloth.”
The Tung tree originated in central and southern China, concentrated around the Yangtse River, and it appears in the writings of Confucius from about 400 B.C.
You need to apply Tung oil using a special method called wet-on-wet burnishing, more complex and involved than many other oil application methods. Most amateurs find this process difficult. While you apply Tung oil just like linseed oil, you need to sand the surface after each application of oil and it usually takes at least 3-5 coats plus 2-3 days drying time in between each coat. If you’d like to attempt it, here’s an excellent video…
What is the difference between a wood oil and a varnish?
Oil is a natural product. Oils cure slowly and penetrate into the surface of the wood. Multiple coatings can be applied until the wood is unable to absorb any more. Additional coats can be applied if desired to create a surface build or coating of oil. Varnish is a synthetic product made by cooking a natural oil like linseed oil, Tung oil or even soya oil with a resin like polyurethane. It’s used to build up layers on the surface of the wood to create a plastic-like coating that gives a hard wearing, protective finish or seal to floors and other wooden surfaces.
Can I varnish over wood oil?
In short, the answer is ‘No’. Because most modern varnishes are water-based, they are generally not compatible with oiled surfaces. The easy way to think of this is having water and oil in a frying pan – try to mix them and they separate. If a water-based varnish is applied on top of an oiled surface, it’s highly likely that it will not bond with the wood and will therefore peel off very quickly. Some types of varnish can be applied over an oiled surface but the process is difficult and needs specific primers and varnishes to achieve this.
The easiest approach to varnishing a previously oiled floor is to use a floor sander to remove the surface of the wood, including the wood oil. Wood oils never penetrate more than a couple of microns into the surface of the timber so it won’t require too much sanding to get back to clean, bare wood.
What is the best oil for Oak furniture?
- Oiling Oak worktops provides the best finish. It adds more depth and character than varnishes and lacquers, is easy to work with, and provides a water-resistant finish.
- For other interior Oak, an Oak furniture oil like Danish oil is a popular choice for preventing stains and cracking and providing a beautiful, lustrous finish.
- Danish oil makes an excellent wood floor oil, but modern proprietary products are sometimes easier to work with. If you’d like advice from the experts, feel free to call us.
- A common question is ‘What is the best outdoor furniture oil?’ We recommend using a high quality Teak oil or other specialist garden furniture oil to protect wooden garden furniture.
Can I use olive oil on wood furniture?
Yes, you can. Use a cloth to work the oil into the wood grain, rubbing back and forth. When the wood has absorbed the oil, leave it for ten minutes then wipe the excess off with a clean cloth. Untreated wood tends to take 2-3 coats, but if you’re unsure just stop when the wood stops absorbing the oil.
Although vegetable and other natural oils can be used, we would always recommend using a dedicated furniture oil as these contain a specially formulated blend of oils and resins, which provide additional durability and wear resistance. A great wood oil that can be used on most types of wooden furniture is clear Osmo Polyx Oil, or if additional colour of a stain is required, we recommend Osmo Polyx Oil Tints.
What is the difference between decking oil, decking preservative, decking paint and decking stain?
- Decking oil penetrates into the surface of the wood, protecting it from cracking splitting and warping, it also helps to repel rain and moisture. Available in clear and coloured variants.
- Decking stains are usually a coloured varnish-like coating that sit on top of the wood to provide colour and protection.
- Decking preservative is usually a spirit-based preserver that penetrates into the wood to protect against mould, algae, dry rot and insect attack, depending on the product you’re using. Many spirit-based wood preservatives are available in a range of colours that can be over-coated with a clear decking oil.
- Decking paint sits on the surface of the wood and helps keep moisture out. Decking paints are very similar to decking stains in that the paint produces a surface coating that sits on top of the decking timber.
Is there a substitute for linseed oil on a cricket bat?
Yes, but most cricket experts believe you can’t beat raw linseed oil. For a new bat with no finish, apply at least two coats of raw linseed oil to the front, back, edges and toe, using a soft rag. The face and edges of the bat should be rubbed down with fine sandpaper every 3-4 weeks during the cricket season and a light coat of linseed oil re-applied. When it has sunk in, wipe off the excess then buff your bat to a sheen using a clean cloth.
How do I refinish olive wood bowls?
If you’re using the bowls to store or present food, never use a vegetable oil. All you’ll get is a horrible smelly, sticky finish. Use a colourless, odour-free, light mineral oil instead, a safe and popular by-product of petroleum.
Tips for using wood oils safely and effectively
- If you want to stain the wood before you oil it, use a water-based stain. If you use an oil-based stain, it’ll block the pores in the wood and prevent the oil from doing its job properly.
- Never, ever leave an oily cloth rolled up. It can easily generate heat and catch fire. Dry it flat outdoors before storing it or chucking it in the bin.
Need help with choosing the right wood oil?
Do you have any questions about interior or exterior wood oils? We’ll be more than happy to answer them. Just get in touch. Alternatively, visit our FAQ page for any and all wood oil-related queries.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your decking project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
Hi,
I have some wood that has been coated with Osmo Cedar UV Protection Oil but need it to match the tone of the existing wood more, which is treated with Teak oil.
Is it possible to put Teak oil over the osmo?
Thanks
Hello Ria,
Generally speaking one oil will fine over another, but always do a test area to ensure compatibility. Osmo would not recommend using another brand over the top of the UV Protection Oil and they do have a Osmo Teak Oil that you could look at. And there is also Barrettine Teak Oil which should go over the existing oil without any issues. I hope that helps and if you need any further advice just let me know.
Regards Sam.
Hi Sam,
I’ve inherited a kitchen dining table and chairs from my grandparents which they’ve lovingly (thinly) varnished over the years. I believe it’s oak. It’s now patchy and I’ve been recommended to apply Danish Oil to it. I don’t use it too often so only needs a moderate level of durability.
Two questions:
1) What’s the best way to remove the varnish? I’ve tried patch sanding but there are some deep grained areas on the sides.
2) Will Danish Oil be okay for the chairs? I was concerned it’d transfer onto clothes.
Thanks in advance,
Anna
Hello Anna,
To remove the varnish from the chairs you could have a look at the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover, which is like a gel that you apply for around 5/10 mins and it bubbles up allowing you to scrap off the varnish.It is important to try a test area first to ensure firstly that it will work and also that it will not have any adverse effect on the wood underneath. A light sand is probably required after all the varnish is removed just to ensure a smooth surface.
Once you have removed all the varnish and you are looking to apply a treatment, I would recommend a product such as the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. It will give a clear hard wearing finish that will not come off on clothing when in regular use. It needs to be applied very thinly and only requires 2 coats so will be of a similar cost to Danish Oil but more durable. Please let me know if you need any further advice or help.
Kind regards Sam.
I bought an solid oak slab from a lumber yard and plan to use it as a worktop for a wash basin. Looking at your comments above, I assume my first step after sanding would be applying a coat of barrettine premier wood preservative. Now, as the worktop is at a south facing window, it will be exposed to the sun all day and as a worktop for a sink, it will be exposed to moisture. I’m not sure whether the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw or the Osmo UV Protection Oil. Any advice would be great
Regards
Warren
Hello Warren,
Thank you for your inquiry, it is fair to say that for the project you are working on, you will need a durable water repellent finish. The first product that I would advice is the Osmo Wood Protector as this will help keep the wood in good condition with all the temperature and humidity changes. And then a top coat product, such as Osmo Polyx Oil Raw, which leaves the wood looking as natural as possible or the Osmo Polyx Oil which can darken the wood slightly.
The Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is an external product so I can not recommend it for use inside but I know that many of our customer do just that with out any problems. It will offer the same protection as the Polyx Oil but with the UV protection. It is best to avoid standing liquid on any oiled surface for long periods, as although highly water repellent it will eventually mark. This is not a big problem as patch repairs are very easy with these oil products.
I hope that helps and please let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
Great website, I have two questions:-
1) I have just received a new solid oak table and sideboard, and the delivery man said I should use Danish oil to nourish/protect it. Any specific brands that are best? or should I be looking at a hard wax instead? I’d like to keep the neutral colour and don’t mind a soft sheen but don’t want a high gloss finish
2) I also have 8 oak veneer doors that had a natural very thin coat x 2 of Ronseal satin varnish applied to protect them, but unfortunately a couple of them have oily handprints on them (my daughter applied some almond oil and didn’t clean her hands before pushing them open without using the handle!). I’ve tried light application of white spirit and sanding the area lightly but the finger marks are still there, which makes me think the almond oil has penetrated the wood. I don’t want to rub the whole door down but are then any other things I could try on the patch affected? thank you!
Hello Sharon,
If the white spirit has not worked then your best option I’m afraid is to sand back. It is possible to patch repair varnish if you just wanted to do the effected areas, but you may not get the perfect finish. I am sorry, I know this is not the answer you are looking for.
For the Sideboard either Danish Oil or Hard Wax Oil would be suitable as a finish. Of the two the Hard Wax Oil is the more durable and hard wearing product and will last longer before needed a maintenance coat. The Hard Wax Oil will also go further as it requires a very thin couple of coats. I hope this helps and please let me know if you need any further help.
Kind regards Sam.
Thanks for the reply, I will give it a go.
What is the best oil to use on a mahogany bannister?
Hello Alan,
You could have a look at the Osmo Extra Thin 1101. This is a clear oil that is ideal for hardwoods such as Mahogany and Teak. Two very thin coats will enhance the wood beautifully, and protect, but always do a test area first to ensure you are getting the finish that you like – Sam.
Hi, I am making an Outdoor Poolside Chaise lounge out of spotted gum hardwood. I would like to oil it for the finish but I am unsure of what oil to use? I want the finish to be clear and bring out the natural grain of the timber as well as being protective to the weather.
Thanks,
Travis
Hello Travis,
I am aware that this is an Australian Hardwood, that can have a slightly greasy feel to it, but I am afraid I know little more than that. I would recommend an oil such as Barrettine Teak Oil. This is a slightly thinner finishing oil that is suitable for hardwood and will, as you requested, bring out the natural colours and grain of the wood. The only issue with this product is the lack of UV protection that you will get with it.
So another product for you to consider would be the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra which is also a clear oil but may be a little harder to work into the wood. Both of these products come in sample sizes and I would recommend a test area first to ensure that they will penetrate the wood as they should.
I would also recommend a Preservative before the oil application to give the wood the best protection against the elements. Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver is a good quality one that works well with the oils. If you have any other questions please let me know – Sam
Hi I have just been given an old French parquet dining table. It’s beautiful and I want to oil it but am u sure what to use. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Thanks Adam
Hello Adam,
As long as you are planning on sanding back to the bare wood then you will be able to use many of the oils on our website, it does depend on what finish you are looking for. A clear oil such as the Osmo Polyx Oil would be a good place to start, it is a durable water resistant product that would be ideal for your table. The Clear will darken the wood slightly or if you want to colour it you could look at the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints. If you are looking to leave the wood as natural as possible then the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw has a small amount of white pigment in it to counter the darkening effect of a clear oil. This would not work on a dark wood though as you may see the white. I hope this gives you some ideas to go forward with and if you have any more questions feel free to ask away – Sam.
Hi
We have a solid oiled oak ‘engineered'(?) floor. It was bought from floors to go as oiled finish but the fitter advised me to oil it when it was fitted saying the factory oiling was only a thin layer. He fitted and oiled the floor for me leaving me some oil to re do it every year. That was 4 years ago and having re oiled it once but I haven’t been able to find the oil again – it was a strange brand and there were no details as to what type of oil it was, just Floor oil. Now the floor desperately needs re oiling especially by the front door as water has made it expand and buckle at the joints but I don’t know what to use. Do I have to wait for the floor to dry out and shrink back down or will the oil push out the water?
Help urgently needed as my husband has already trimmed the floor back to try and remove the buckling but if he takes any more off it will be too small in the summer.
Thank
Hello Bethlehem,
As it is engineered flooring you may not be able to sand it back and it may not go back to its original state when dry, but you do need to dry it before applying as putting more oil on will hold the water in the wood and you are likely to get mould and mildew forming. You may need to speak to the supplier of the flooring to see what the best solution will be.
I terms of the finishing oil, generally speaking most oils will go over other oils with out any problems, I would strongly recommend a test area first however just to check compatibility. The Fiddes Hard Wax Oil would be a good option for you to have a look at and is available in sample sizes. If you need any further advice please let me know – Sam.
Hi
I’m making a duct board to go into a wet area of a shower, I’m using teak wood.
Could you advise me of the best product to coat the wood to protect from water ingress and mould?
Thanks
Stephen
Hello Stephen,
There are two products that you could put on the Duct Board that will give the wood a good level of water repellency, but any standing water left on the wood for a long period of time will soak in and stain. The first is the Osmo Wood Protector this is a base coat product that helps to keep the woods elasticity in the changeable conditions of the bathroom.
The second product is the Osmo Wood Wax Extra Thin which is a protective oil that is extra thin for tropical hard woods such as Teak. These two together will give the best protection.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi,
I have a solid oak external door that was fitted last winter. It was coated in linseed oil but the door seems to have dried since then and I was thinking of applying Osmo UV protection oil to the door. I imagine that some linseed oil will still be present in the oak, so would applying Osmo over this create any issues?
Thanks
Stewart
Hello Stewart,
It is unlikely to be an issue but I would always recommend trying a test area first to ensure that there are no compatibility issues. And remember the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra needs to be applied very thinly and a light sand between coats will give a superior finish.
Kind regards Sam
We are installed tongue & groove western cedar wainscoting walls with smooth sid exposed.
Our goal is to finish with something that will make the wood grain look wet.
It is a lake house and mildew can be an issue
What do you recommend ?
What method – brush /cloth?
How long will one coat help enhance the beauty of the new unfinished western cedar boards?
Your blog is great.
Sincerely
Hello Bill,
Can you tell me if we are talking about internal cladding or external please ?
Best Wishes Sam.
I’m receiving conflicting advice.
I have a new oak kitchen table and Some people are saying I should use Danish oil while others are saying Tong oil.
We’d like a satin finish at best, but it must stand up to the wear and tear of spillages etc as it’s a kitchen table.
Plus if it’s good I’d like to do my oak furniture in the living room as well.
What so you recommend?
Thanks
Hello Mark,
Of the two the Tung Oil will be slightly more durable and suitable for a Kitchen table that will generally get a lot of use. It is however more of a Matt finish. Danish Oil will still protect to a good level but you inevitably need more coats and may need to do maintenance more often, and generally speaking the more coats of the Danish that you apply the glossier it will become.
For an even more durable finish you could consider a Hard Wax Oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil which comes in a glossy finish, you only need to apply 2 thin coats of this product to get great protection. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions please let me know – Sam.
Hi there,
Firstly can I say I have immensely enjoyed reading all the comments on this thread, I’ve learned a lot in a short space of time 🙂
Ok my conundrum is that I have recently started studying furniture and have acquired a load of air dried spalted beech.
I love the character of this wood but have been reading it is rather dangerous to work with with spores etc always present.
Once I have made a cabinet and finish it with danish oil will this seal the wood and prevent any dangers of spores or fungal growth from the piece?
I was also thinking of perhaps using OSMO POLYX-OIL as a finish but I’m unsure if this would seal the wood properly?
Many thanks
Martin
Hi Martin,
Spalted Beach mainly gives of spores in the working stages while cutting and sanding and can not live on timber under 20% moisture so the fungus is no longer living on dry timber. As long as you keep the wood well oiled it should not release any spores. If you are using wood as a chopping board you may need to be careful as cutting into the wood can disturb the spores,but in most cases they are harmless unless you have an intolerance.
The Osmo Polyx Oil would be a good choice of product as it is durable and gives a beautiful natural finish and will seal the wood. Danish Oil would also be suitable and give an equally beautiful finish, it will just require more coats and regular maintenance coats. If you have any further questions please let me know.
Thanks for the advice Sam. What I’ll do for you is take before and after photographs. That’s always supposing I feel my workmanship warrants it!
My wife and I have just been given a small teak table. It was bought by my late father-in-law when he was stationed in Burma during the war. It is a fairly basic construction but is heavily carve and it doesn’t appear to have had any previous treatment. My question is, what is the best oil to treat it with? Obviously teak oil springs to mind but I’ve also read that Danish oil is another treatment I could use. Another question is, as it is heavily carved, how would I remove excess oil after application?
Hello Nick,
Intricate carving can be difficult and a build up of oil in crevices can leave a messy finish. As it a hard wood table a thinner oil would be better as it will soak into the tight grain better, so go with a product such as Teak Oil or the Osmo Extra Thin and then when applying, dip the brush in the oil and then wipe most of the oil off the brush before working into the wood. The oil needs to be applied thinly anyway so using only a very small amount of oil on the brush will help to reduce build up in those detailed areas. Have a lint free cloth handy as well. I hope this helps and we would love to see a photo when its done – Sam
Hi there, I have just acquired a large bear wood carving, which has been indoors for some months and is starting to crack, so I want to oil it with something before I put it outside in the garden. The previous owner thought it might have been oiled with linseed oil originially but my local hardware store recommended teak oil over linseed, and I have only ever used danish oil on wood so I am not at all sure what would be best here. I don’t know what wood the carving is but I assuming hardwood, it is also quite a rough surface so not really for sanding down. Grateful for any advice please.
Hello Beth,
The Oils that you are considering will offer some protection in the form of nourishing the wood and offering some water repellency. If you are looking to stop the silvering effect that the sun will have once you put it outside the you will need an oil with UV protection filters in it. So a Decking Oil would be a good option for you to consider.
If you like the silvering effect of the Sun then the Teak Oil requires less coats but has a longer drying time and the Danish Oil has a shorter drying time but needs more coats. So it really down to personal preference. If you have any more questions please let me know and I would love to see a photo – Sam
I followed your suggestion with some success, not perfect, but much better than it was previously.
Thanks
Hello,
We recently had custom cabinets built out of beetle kill wood. The builder of the cabinets used linseed oil on the wood first and then varnished it. Should we expect to have any problems with the wood since linseed oil and varnish were used?
Hello Ellen,
Applying a Varnish over an Oil is not something that we would recommend, however we have know people to do the combination you have mentioned with little or no trouble. We would expect the Varnish to delaminate when applied over an oil, this means it could potentially peel off the surface. So you may need to keep an eye on it, and if this does happen, remove the varnish and just use one or other of the products – Sam
Hi Sam, thanks for your comments.
This was the first time the wood had been oiled, unless that is when it leaves the factory they put oil onto the wood.
It certainly had an appearance of no oil at all prior to my efforts.
I have in the meantime tried vigorously rubbing the surface with a cotton clean towel, and although with some success, it’s very tiring !!.
We only used used a 1 litre bottle on a total area of about 40 sq meters, which had not seemed overly excessive.
I will try some white spirit
Thanks Peter
Hi we have engineered oak floors throughout the groundfloor, fitted about 3 years ago.
The fitter and the firm who sold us the wood suggested from time to time to oil the floor and on their advice we bought bona wood oil.
I spent 4 days using a rag rubbing in the oil, moving furniture all around the house, very tiring.
It has changed the colour of the floor, left is sticky and also with a sheen, any suggestions ?.
Ps I did not walk on any area after oiling for more that 24hrs
Hello Peter,
I’m sorry to say that it sounds like you have over applied the Oil, when this happens the Oil is unable to soak into the surface of the wood as it is supposed to, and so remains on the surface of the wood creating a film like sticky finish. Most Oils need to be applied very thinly on to the surface of the wood and when applying, you need to remove the excess. It is also true to say that most Oils will also darken the wood slightly, the wood may also have still had a lot of the previous oil still left in it from the older treatments and so it saturation levels may have been less than you thought. It is difficult to guess if this is the true cause but this is why test areas are so important.
You can solve this problem by wiping over the surface with some White Spirit do not scrub to hard as this will remove all the treatment and you only need to remove the surface film. And these Cotton Rags would be ideal for doing this. Please do a small test area first. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know – Sam.
Hi, I’m working on refinishing a mid century modern teak table. It was in pretty rough shape so I sanded it down a lot. I’m now using teak oil to get it back to that original redish/golden colour, but it’s staining so light (almost like a pine). Should I keep applying the oil until I get the desired colour? I’ve already applied 3 coats. Thanks.
Hello Danielle,
The wood will only take so much oil and will then be saturated. Any Oil applied after this will sit on the surface of the wood and may not dry properly. If you are looking to darken or change the colour you may have to think about removing the Oil and Staining the wood with a product such as Manns Classic Oak Stain and then finishing with the oil for protection.
Thanks for your help Sam!
Hi,
I’ve recently used a regular household polish on some 1960s Danish style furniture and have been horrified to see the colour coming off on the cloth. When we bought the furniture it smelt heavily of cigarette smoke for months, so I am hoping that this is accumulated tar build up (urgh) rather than the actual colour of the wood, but it made me search you out on the internet nonetheless. Presumably as Teak Oil is colourless I shouldn’t be seeing a colour coming off the wood, should I? If I shouldn’t be using polish then what can I use to clean my furniture? Either way the table has had a bodge varnish job over half of it (I’m guessing the rest is original oil) so I think I will have to sand the set down and start again. Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated!
Hello Dan,
It does sound like it could possibly be residue from the tobacco that is coming off the furniture, although some polishes and cleaners are known to remove oils or waxes when used. We have a pH-neutral cleaner on our website that could be worth a try, Bona Wood Floor Cleaner Spray although it is called a floor cleaner it would be suitable for your furniture and should remove all grease and dirt without affecting the finish of the furniture. Once the furniture is clean you could consider giving it a refresh with some Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish. This will go on top of previous wax or varnish that is on the furniture without any problems. Please let me know if you have any further questions – Sam.
Hi
A second question if I may. (A truly excellent website and enquiry service by the way.) We have internal doors, which I waxed 3 or 4 years ago, but which are now showing grubby / greasy finger marks. How would you recommend I remove the marks and maintain the doors?
Hi Geoff,
If the greasy marks won’t come off with a Neutral cleaning product you can try a light wipe with some White Spirit but be careful as this will remove the Wax as well. Once the greasy marks are removed and the door clean you can re wax which will give the door a fresh look.
The alternative would be to rub down and remove any wax that is left on there and once back to bare clean wood you can apply a Door Oil this will be more durable than the Wax and easier to keep clean. If you have any more questions please let me know – Sam
Hi
I have used Devon Oil to oil a new beech table top bought from a Swedish furniture supplier.
After the second application, it has remained sticky for a week, probably because I didn’t wipe off the excess soon enough. Will it eventually dry, or should I apply something like white spirit to it – and would I then need to apply a further coat?
Hello Geoff,
I am not familiar with Devon Oil but I would assume that it works much like other Oils in the terms of absorption and if over applied can take longer to dry or have trouble soaking in if the wood is too saturated. It may be worth rubbing over lightly with some White Spirit to remove that excess oil but be careful not to remove the first coat. Applying another very thin coat may be necessary after wiping with the White spirit but do a test area first to see that the wood will take it.
I have recently had a wood stove fitted with an oak beam above. It has some lovely knots and cracks. Can you please advise on the best product to treat it with? I want it to look a natural colour but it must be fire-proof.
Hello Val,
The only range of Fire Retardant products that we do are the Envirograf products. Its worth having a read up on the 3 products in this range to see exactly what is required when applying them.
We do often recommend Osmo Polyx Oil for Beams above fire places or wood stoves, the Oil copes well with heat and will not peel and flake. It leaves a natural and hard wearing finish to the wood and would be another product worth looking at, but doesn’t come with the Fire Retardant properties of Envirograf or a certificate. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please let me know – Sam
Hello Sam. I am prepping three wooden counters (beech and/or birch, I think) in my kitchen for coating with Osmo Polyx oil. Two are fairly new Ikea countertops that have had some light mineral oil applications; one is a beat-up old countertop original to the apartment that seems to have been finished over the years with mineral oil & wax, and has several spots where olive oil we spilled has soaked in. The wood is very absorbent, so I guess I’ve gotten most of the old coatings of whatever off, yet there are areas that still give up and brownish crud when I scrub with hot water and Dawn.
Will the polyx oil cure correctly if applied over mineral or olive oil? If not, what method do you recommend to strip the mineral and olive oils out? I’ve read you should use white spirits or citrus solvent, but is that wipe on/wipe off, or what? Many thanks for your advice!
Hello Deborah,
If there are visible marks on the surface of the wood there is a chance that these will show through when the Osmo Polyx Oil is applied or have an effect on the drying time. It may also have no effect at all as generally speaking one oil will go comfortably over another with no problems. The best way to find out is with a test area.
I would also recommend wiping down with the White Spirits first though to remove as much of the previous Oil first. By doing this you will get a more consistent and even finish. I hope that helps and if you do have any more questions please let me know – Sam
Hi I am currently building a table for inside my house using oak railway sleepers I have persuade the manns light oak stain and I don’t how what to use to protect it please could you give me some advise thanks
Hello Jodie,
Once the Stain is dry you can apply either an Oil based product such as Osmo Polyx Oil which will soak into the wood and give a natural finish that will darken it very slightly and is easy to maintian. Or you could use an Interior Varnish that will seal on the surface of the wood, it is slightly more durable but will give a slightly different finish. I hope this helps and let me know if you have any more question, plus i would love to see a before and after picture if you get a time to send one.
Hi, I want to use an Osmo oil product on my oak veneered doors but have been told that I cannot as the oil will soak through making the glue fail and causing the veneer to peal. Is this something you have experienced/heard or a myth? Thanks Sean
Hello Sean,
It is something that we come across a lot in our business. Nearly all manufacturers of veneered doors advice you not to use Oils, for the very reason that you have talked about. Here at Wood finishes Direct we believe that most veneers would be okay with oil, because the oil only soaks into the first 1mm of the surface of the wood, and many veneers are 3mm or more and so would not have an effect on the adhesive.
However if the paper work with the doors advice’s that you do not use oil, it would invalidate your guarantee if you do. It would be worth checking the depth of the veneer if you can, and then the choice is yours but always do a test area first.
I have a good quality oak dining table with a linseed oil finish. It has one or two very light scratches and a couple of small dents that require some attention. I am thinking of using Osmo Poly Oil, do I need to remove the linseed oil finish or is it compatable with Osmo?
Hello Malcolm,
Generally speaking one Oil will go on top of another without any problem, but I would always recommend a test area first to be sure.
The test area will show if the two oils are compatible and also if the wood will absorb any more oil or if the wood is saturated. If the wood is saturated with the Linseed oil then it will not absorb any more and if that is the case you may need to remove the Linseed Oil before applying the Osmo. You can do this by wiping with White Spirits or sanding back.
The Osmo is far superior to the Linseed Oil and will be more hard wearing and durable. Maintenance coats will only need to be done every few years depending on how much the table is used. The Osmo Polyx Oil needs to be applied very thinly and will dry quicker than the Linseed Oil.
Hi! What a wonderful site!
I have a 60 year old Burma teak hutch (which I will be stripping down to refinish) and am in the process of choosing a dining table which will be custom made.
First, what wood do you recommend for the table so that it withstands daily wear and tear? I am oscillating between walnut and oak. (I will be using a table cloth at meal times though.) I would like to do a wood oil finish. Can the same oil be used on the Burma teak hutch too? Or does an oak table need oak oil and a teak hutch teak oil? I would like them to have the same colour and finish so they look harmonious.
Thank you so much in advance!
Hello,
Thank you for your inquiry, with regard to which wood to use for the table both Oak and Walnut are suitable and durable woods so the choice is really down to personal preference.
If both pieces of furniture are for indoors then a Hard Wax Oil will be a good option, as it will finish and protect your wood. However, if you have two different woods then the overall finish will be different even if you use the same product to finish them. To bring the two together you may need to think about staining one of the items with a water-based Wood Stain and then finish with the Hard Wax Oil.
I hope that helps and if you have any more questions please feel free to email us on wood@finishes.direct or give us a call.
I’ve recently been fortunate come by some vintage eucalyptus timbers (2½×9×108″), courtesy of a local bridge refurbishment project. I intend to use it for garden decking. Being some seventy years old, they are a little worse for wear in parts, but also full of character and feature a well worn, highly textured grain. I don’t want to lose this all important grain texture in the process of cleaning up and preserving the wood, so what procedure and oils would you recommend? Varnishing is a strictly a no-no. I’d be happy to hear anyone’s suggestions. Thanks.
Hello Steve,
It sounds like you have some beautiful wood there!! The first thing I would recommend is a treatment with some Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative. It is a good quality preserver that will prevent mould, mildew, rot and wood boring insects, and if you can do these treatments before putting the wood in place that would be even better.
You are right to go with oil as a top coat treatment. It will maintain the natural look and texture of the wood, which is exactly what you want. There are a number of oils that would be suitable, so it depends on if you want to add a little colour to the wood or to keep its natural look but protect it from greying in the sun.
Any of the Decking Oils on our site would be suitable for you to use and they come in clear of coloured finishes. If you want to go for a top quality clear oil with a high UV Protection, to help stop the silvering process that naturally happens in the sunshine, you might want to look at Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. I hope that answers all your questions and we would love to see some photos of your project to share on our social media pages if you get a chance – wood@finishes.direct
Hello,
I am so happy I stumbled upon your website today. I recently decided to switch to using natural products for wood finishing but have little experience with any of them. I am in the process of builiding a two-level bar for my husband and the upper drink rail is a slab of live edge black cherry. I have applied several coats of mineral oil but my husband said he would prefer a glossy finish on it. I know I do not have the skills to use two-part epoxy, nor do I want to. Can you make any recommendations on any of the above mentioned oil products and methods that a relative beginner can handle and that would result in a glossier finish?
Hello Brenda,
You could try the Osmo Polyx Oil. There is a Glossy finish in this range and although it will not be as shiny as a high gloss varnish, it can be buffed to increase the shine by around 5%-10%. Please do a test area first as you have already applied an alternative oil, you need to ensure firstly that the wood is not already saturated with oil and secondly that the 2 oils are compatible. If you need to remove the original product you should be able to do this with White Spirits. The Osmo Polyx Oil is a hard wax oil made from all natural products. It requires only 2 coats and is also easy to patch repair if you do get any stains or damage, and you can easily apply maintenance coats every few years when you feel that it is needed.
We are renovating a thirty five year old home that has a variety of wood inside. Some appears to be finished with a laquer/varnish, singe looks quite dry. We were told teak oil, rubbed on, provide a revitalizing effect on the vanished surfaces, such as baseboard, etc. and allow us to avoid having to remove, sand, refinish etc. Told teak oil would remove minor scratches etc… Also, could teak oil be applied directly to wood ceiling beans that look quite dry, as if they may only have been stained originally? Finally, there are wood boards on some of the walls that look dry but may have at one time had a bit of a finish (very hard to tell). Teak oil again ok?
Hello Jean,
Thank you for your inquiry you can not apply Teak Oil over a varnished/lacquered finish. The teak oil is designed to be absorbed by the wood which will be prevented by any previous seal that is on the surface. You will need to remove any previous product before applying the Oil. If the beams have no product on them currently then you could use the Teak Oil to nourish then and enhance the natural finish of the wood.
An alternative product for the varnished areas would be Bona Freshen Up which is designed to go onto varnished surfaces and revive and enhance the finish. Helping to hide some of those fine scratches on the surface. Hope that helps and if you have any more questions please let me know.
Please help. My husband was oiling our oak sideboard and oak futon frame with the linseed oil about a month ago. He was over keen and rubbed the oil on the sides and legs of varnished oak coffee table and book case. Now they are dry and sticky. What can I use to remove the linseed oil from the varnished surfaces please. Many thanks
Hello Grace,
You can remove Linseed Oil with White Spirit, the White spirit shouldn’t have an effect on the Varnish but do a test area first to be on the safe side.
Hi I’m looking at some oak slabs for a kitchen worktop can you advise me on a suitable oil and the process il need to take
Thanks in advance
Hello Anrai,
You can use a Top Oil for your oak worktops, Manns Premier Top Oil is a good option, it dries to a Matt finish and is resistant to liquid spills and heat. If you would like a bit more shine to your finish then the Osmo Top Oil in Satin finish would be a good alternative. These products need to be applied thinly and just 2 coats are required.
Hi guys… Excellent website and fantastic information you provide.
If possible, could you answer a coupl of quick questions i have?.
1. We have two new pine internal doors which I want to stain and oil to match the old antique pitch pine doors we have elsewhere. I have osmo door oiled the old doors but want to stain the new pine doors to be a close match as possible as i worry that if I simply door oil them they will be too light in shade. Can I use osmo pine woodstain then door oil to simulate this colour tone ?
2. Lastly, I have gloss osmo’ door dining room floor but want a deeper shine similar to a varnish. Can I use the osmo wax cleaner to polish a deeper shine into the floor ? I was reluctant to varnish the floor instead of oil osmo as I prefer osmo and find it so easy to use.
Hope asking these questions are ok. Many that’s again.
Hello David,
It fine to ask as many questions as you like, that is what we are here for. In answer to your first question, you could use the Manns Classic Pine Stain to try to colour match you wood. As this is water based your are able to mix with water to lighten the tone or mix with other colours from the same range to achieve the desired tone. It is worth noting that when you apply the protective coat on top of the stain it is likely to darken slightly. For the top coat you could use the Osmo Polyx Oil
For your question about the floor, although the Hard wax Oil doesn’t polish up as much as a Wax would, you can still improve the shine slightly by buffing the wood. But the Osmo Liquid Wax Cleaner dries to a more satin finish so is unlikely to increase the sheen level that you already have – Sam
Hi,
I am in the middle of a kitchen cabinet update. All the new cabinets have been built of alder. I am finishing them all myself. After trying many different things, I settled on making my own stain with interior wall paint mixed with water. I wanted a rubbed in rather than painted on look, with some wood grain showing through. While they are turning out like I wanted, it has been very time consuming. I have been told I need a protective finish. I’ve sampled all the water based products like Minwax polycrylic and hate them. They seem like plastic. My nephew (a talented wood worker) told me to use wipe on poly oil to get the finish I want, or maybe teak oil. What is wipe on poly oil and where do I get it?
Hind sight of course is that I should have used oil based paint or stain in the first place.
Thanks
Shelley
Hello Shelly,
It may be the Osmo Polyx Oil that your nephew was talking about. The Oil is designed to soak into the surface of the wood so it may be that the stain that you have put on prevents this, a test area should be done first. If the oil doesn’t sink in to the wood, then you will need to consider a Varnish over the top, again a test area is advised to ensure that the varnish doesn’t have a effect on the stain that you have used.The Varnish will create a protective seal on the surface. Hope this helps – Sam.
Hi Sam. Thanks for the quick response. Apologies for not making it clear but it’s all the external woodwork that needs re-doing. The wood has warped and swelled where the varnish has weathered away and flaked off and water has penetrated, so it’s a question of replacing and protecting the wood going forwards. Happy to send photos, where Should I send them?
Hello Jon,
For External treatment you could consider the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. This is the external equivalent to the Polyx Oil. You might want to consider putting a Preservative on first for the best protection. If you would like to send some photos here is the email address – wood@finishes.direct
Hi
I have an oak and glass annex which has been neglected over the last few years and the original coat of varnish (I think) has flaked off to varying degrees, particularly where the wood is very exposed. Here it has gone silvery whilst elsewhere it remains more golden in colour. I’m planning on stripping it down and re-protecting with oil rather than varnish. I was going to use Danish oil, which I’ve used for some internal green oak beams, but someone recommended Osmo polyx oil as a more durable option. Would you recommend the Osmo polyx over the Danish oil for this or is there not much in it? Thanks!
Hello Jon,
If it is internal wood that you are treating then yes the Osmo Polyx Oil would be the better product to use. Danish will nourish and protect but it will require more coats and regular maintenance coats to be done around every 6 months. The Polyx Oil however is more durable and hard wearing and will only require a maintenance coat around 2/3 years for frames and sills, and slightly more regular for flooring. I would love to see some before and after photos of your project if you get a chance – Sam
I am in the process of building an out door dining table out of repurposed wood and I was thinking of just sanding and oiling it with teak oil but I want to retain the nutural color of the wood once it is sanded. Does teak oil change the color and if so would you have any recommendations
Hi Danny,
Teak Oils are classed as clear but like most oils it can darken the wood slightly when applied. The best way to get an idea of how much would be to wipe a damp cloth over the surface of the wood, that darkening will give an indication of how much it will change the tone of the wood. It may be that a teak oil will darken slightly more than a decking oil for example but only test areas will show truly how much. We are about to get a new product in from Osmo which is the first of its kind and is designed to leave the wood looking as Natural as possible. This should be on our website in the next couple of weeks if you would like to keep an eye out for it or you can email us for more information
Hi Sam,
Any reason I couldn’t use coconut oil to do plywood for a van? I just happen to have a lot of coconut oil that needs to be used for something anyway; I figure maybe it’s just not used for wood as it’s so expensive?!
And if you ran out of one type of oil, can you do further coats in another type, or does that not work?
Hello Jodie
I know there is a lot of benefits to be had from Coconut Oil but it is not something that we use or know enough about to be able to recommend its use on wood. Our flooring expert thinks that it will offer some protection but that there is a good chance that you would not be able to put anything else on top at a later date. I hope you manage to find an answer or use for the the coconut oil.
Thanks Sam…. Is there a product you would recommend?
You could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil or the Manns Premier Top Oil both are good quality oils that will protect your splash back, and are easy to patch repair and maintain. Hope that helps.
I have acquired a beautiful slice of aged oak approx 2800 x 800 x 25mm, which i want to use as a splash back in my kitchen.. I have sanded it back, and now need to seal and finish it. I intend to use danish oil, as I like the finish and the way it brings out the grain, but am a little worried about protection against cleaning products and food splashes. Would you recommend any other product that may perform better in this use?
Hello,
The Danish Oil will give a nice and protective finish as you anticipate, but it will need refreshing regularly and may mark easily with general kitchen use. A Hard Wax Oil will be more durable and protective than the Danish Oil, whilst still giving a natural finish. I will darken the wood slightly in the same way that a Danish Oil would and you can get an idea of how much by wiping a damp cloth across the surface of the bare wood. But it only requires 2 coats and a maintenance coat every couple of years (sooner if you feel that it needs it.)
I have just made a chair out of hazel – what is the best thing to treat the wood with?
Hello Jo,
It will depend on the type of finish you are looking for, if the chair is for indoor or outdoor use. If you want to leave the wood looking natural with an enhanced grain then an oil-based product like the Osmo Polyx Oil that will give good protection. If you want to add some colour then you could use the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints will protect and colour at the same time. These are products for indoor furniture if you have any other questions please feel free to contact us
Kind Regards Sam
Also we have an engineered wood floor downstairs in the house, engineered wood as underfloor heating is present under the wooden boards.
It’s been down for a couple of years and we have got a couple of scratches and it needs protecting with some oil / preservative but don’t want to make it shiny or slippy compared to what we have now.
Again any thoughts, help or advice would be gratefully received.
Many thanks
Dan
If the flooring is bare wood then its worth giving it a good clean to ensure it is dirt and grease free, and then you could consider a couple of coats of Osmo Polyx Oil this product comes in a number of sheen levels and is perfect for high traffic areas and is dirt and water resistant. It will darken the wood slightly and the best way to get an idea of how much is by wiping a damp cloth across the bare wood. This product won’t hide any scratches however and you may want to consider a Filler depending how deep the scratches are.
Just had tanilised wood sleepers put in the garden as retaining walls.
Also have new garden close board fencing put in on the back boundary with an older fence to the left.
Also have a child’s cedar wood climbing frame.
I’d like to paint / oil / preserve all of the outdoor wood into a darker oak colour, so any advice on what I should be using please ?
Many thanks in advance
Dan
Hello Dan,
We would always recommend starting with a good preservative on all external woods, Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative comes in a clear finish and will protect against Mould, Mildew, Rot and Wood Boring insects. Once this has dried a good quality wood oil such as Ronseal Ultimate Protection Decking Oil which comes in a range of colours including Natural and Dark Oak will give good protection and resistance against foot traffic and weathering. And although it is called Decking Oil it would be suitable to use on all of the above, we do recommend a test area first however with all products to ensure that you like the colour achieved on each individual piece of wood. This Oil can then be topped up as and when you feel it needs it every 1 to 2 years.
we have a teak dining room table without a finish on it, bought used, to finish it do we use Danish oil or wipe on polyurethane. We do not want to get rings on it from glasses. We use coasters now and when anything is wet or even with hot plates marks are left. What is good satin finish?
Hello Lynn
Both Varnish and Hard Wax Oil will protect the surface from heat and liquid when applied correctly. Of the two products the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil can be the easiest to maintain. This hard wax oil comes in a Satin finish and a little goes a long way as this product needs to be applied thinly. It is child safe and quick drying and the sample size of 250ml can cover up to 6 metres squared.
I have received conflicting advice about care of Danish Modern furniture with rosewood veneer. Mine is drying out and developing minute cracks. I think the original finish is lacquer? Should I apply teak oil, wax, or leave it alone? My wife claims that she was told to apply oil when she bought the furniture 45 years ago, but I never believed that because the wood probably has a lacquer finish. What is your advice?
Many Thanks,
Steve
Hi Stephen,
It can sometimes be difficult to know if a surface has been oiled or varnished.
To identify what type of finish you have, put a couple of drops of Olive Oil or other cooking oil on the surface, perhaps on a corner or back edge and leave for 3 or 4 hours. If the oil soaks into the surface of the wood and leaves a small mark or stain, the furniture has been oiled. If the drops of oil remain on the surface, it’s fairly safe to say that it has been varnished.
If the furniture has been oiled, you will be able to re-oil or use a good quality liquid Beeswax polish to feed the wood and prevent it from drying out. Unfortunately, if it is a varnish that has started to crack and split, there’s not much that can be done other than having the old varnish removed and the furniture renovated.
Hope this helps.