Part two in our series of three blog posts about garden decking maintenance takes a look at the most common issues faced by DIYers who want to make their decking beautiful, as well as recommending some of the best-performing treatments.

It depends on the issue with the deck. If it's simply dirt, debris and plant matter, decking can be cleaned by sweeping with a stiff bristle broom then treated with a dedicated decking cleaner. For decking that has been affected by mould and algae, sweep with a stiff broom or brush to remove as mush surface matter as possible then treat with a mould and mildew cleaner. heavily soiled decking may require a second treatment.

It depends on the type of wood and the finish you want to achieve. Have a look at the first in our series of three blog posts (Garden Decking Stain Treatments - Part #1) about garden decking treatments, how to prepare the wood beforehand and make a great job of it.

Black wood finishes on decking have become more popular as they provide a striking contrast against the green hues of grass, trees and other garden plants. Black wood finishes also help to keep the traditional look of exterior wooden beams, barns, doors and window frames. Read more about achieving the perfect black wood finish in our blog.

Algae growth is the most common cause of slippery decking and can be cleaned using a dedicated Mould and Mildew Cleaner. If the decking is bare wood, a wood preservative treatment should then be applied to help prevent future growth. Treating the decking with a decking oil once the preservative has fully dried will further protect the wood from biological growth and water penetration.

A concentrated cleaner can be mixed with water then applied by slightly dampening a cloth or mop. It is important to let the cleaner and not the water do the work. Using too much water on a varnish, wax or oil will take a little of your finish off each time it is used which in turn means your floor will have a shorter life. Visit our floor cleaners page to see our range of easy to use products.

We've got a great range of floor applicators that will save on time, money and back ache!.

Unfortunately not. Wood oils work by penetrating in to the surface grain of the timber and hardening in the surface of the wood. Wood that has been varnished will prevent this from happening and will likely result in a sticky mess on top of the varnish. Varnished floors must be sanded back to bare wood before a wood oil can be applied.

A varnish is the most hard-wearing finish to use for wood flooring. There are 2-part varnishes available which can be mixed with a hardener prior to application, allowing the two to dry together, thereby creating a much tougher and more durable surface finish.

If your wood flooring has been previously varnished, carry out a test area to ensure adhesion and compatibility and then lightly sand to create a key. If the wood floor has been previously oiled, waxed or polished, then the product would need to be completely removed by sanding back to bare wood or using a suitable wood stripper.

We always recommend Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish for internal veneered doors. It is a water-based clear varnish and is available in four sheen levels from Matt through to High Gloss.

Products such as Manns Premier Door Oil, Osmo Door Oil (3060) have been specially designed for use on veneered internal doors. It gives interior doors a tough, durable, clear, satin finish. Always check the door manufacturer's guidance before treating veneered doors as in some cases, it may invalidate the warranty of the door.

We recommend using a wax as it can be applied over previous wax, and oil finishes. This removes the need to sand back to bare wood, removing the wood's natural patina. We recommend trying Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish or an alternative furniture wax to revive your furniture

Unfinished furniture should be treated with a woodworm killer such as Barrettine Premier Woodworm Killer or Ronseal Woodworm Killer. The Furniture can then be treated with a suitable Interior wood preservative to help prevent future infestation.

Furniture that has been painted, waxed, varnished or oiled should be stripped back to bare wood before treating with a woodworm killer. This is to ensure that the woodworm treatment reaches all areas to kill any active woodworm or larvae. The furniture can then treated with an interior wood preservative and then refinished with your choice of wood finish.

First you need to fix the roof, clean all the surfaces and make sure the windows and doors are sealed nice and tight. Then it's time to pick your wood preservation weapons! Check out our blog post about garden shed renovation and maintenance.

Black wood finishes on garden sheds are becoming popular as they provide a striking contrast against the green of grass, trees and other garden plants. Read more about achieving the perfect black wood finish in our blog.

Black fence finishes have become more popular as they provide a striking contrast against the green of grass, trees and other garden plants. Read more about achieving the perfect black wood finish in our blog.

In our opinion, wood oils are one of the best options for wooden interior doors. They nourish the wood and prevent the door from drying out therefore protecting the door from shrinkage, splitting and warping. An oil finish is also very easy to maintain and repair if it becomes dirty, scuffed or scratched.

This can depend on the colour and type of finish that's desired. Wood stains such as Manns Classic Pine Stain are a great way to stain interior doors as they offer the widest range of colours and can often be intermixed (from the same product range) to achieve many thousands of wood tones and shades. Water-based and solvent-based liquid stains must be over-coated and sealed into the wood with a clear wood oil, varnish or wax. There are a wide range of pigmented or coloured wood oils, varnishes and waxes that both colour and seal the wood in one which are also ideal for interior doors.

If doors have been previously oiled or waxed, there's a good chance that paint will not effectively bond or adhere to the door surface. This could result in paint simply peeling off or in the case of water-based paints, simply running or dripping off the door surface. Our advice would be to get the doors professionally stripped. It is possible to remove the old finish by sanding or using a wax and polish remover but this could be time consuming and messy.

The Shabby Chic look can be easily achieved with a wide range of paint types including emulsion paint, clay paint and chalk paint. We supply a range of clay paint products from Earthborn which are ideal and environmentally friendly. Ronseal also offer a Chalky Furniture Paint that is perfect for Shabby Chic projects.

Whilst emulsion paints can be used we recommend chalk or clay paints becuase they are easy to rub down, allowing the wood or coating below the paint to show through.

Before attempting to strip a piece of wood furniture it's important to know what type of finish you are removing. Old coats of wax should be removed using a Wax and Polish Remover, oil finishes can be removed by scrubbing the wood with white spirit whilst layers of paint and varnish will require a paint stripper. See our full range of paint strippers and removers suitable for wooden furniture.

This is a difficult question as knowing which log cabin treatment is best can depend on the type of finish required, appearance, budget, log cabin condition, location and more.

For a clear finish, Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment is the perfect choice for new or bare wood log cabins. It's made from a blend of oils, waxes and resins that provide a durable and extremely weather resistant finish. This product provides an extra layer of protection for previously preserved or pressure treated timbers. For bare timbers, we recommend first treating with Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner to remove any biological growth, then treating wood with Barrettine Premier Universal Preservative to help protect against mould, algae growth and wood boring insects. The log cabin can then be finished with a clear exterior wood oil such as Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment.

If a coloured finish is preferred, consider Holzol Weather Oil. This product is available in a range of attractive colours and provides excellent protection against the elements. For more natural wood tone colours, consider Manns Premier UV Decking Oil or Barrettine Decking Oil.

Log cabins in exposed environments and that are subjected to extreme weathering can be first treated with Cuprinol 5 Star Complete Wood Treatment (WB) then coated with Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus followed by Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus.

If you are looking to retain the appearance of the wood grain rather than painting it, we recommend using a clear wood oil or varnish. Varnishes tend to offer better durability whereas wood oils are easier to patch repair and maintain if they become stained, scratched or worn. Pine can turn an orange or yellow shade when over-coated with a 'clear' product, there are however oil based products such as Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural that counteract this and help to retain the freshly sanded or unfinished appearance on light coloured woods.

Exterior wood preservers are designed to protect garden sheds and other garden wood from biological threats such as mould, algae, wood rot and insect attack. Whilst many wood preservers do contain a small amount of wax, they generally only offer limited weather protection. We recommend that any exterior wood is treated with a preservative first then a suitable exterior wood oil. Decking oils such as Manns Premier UV Decking Oil or Ronseal Decking Oil are ideal for use on garden sheds.

Many but not all wood preservatives contain a small amount of wax or silicon to offer a degree of weather protection, this can be problematic if looking to paint the shed and especially with a water based exterior paint. Wax and silicon free preservers are available such as Barrettine Premier Universal Preservative and Sadolin Quick Drying Wood Preserver. These can be applied then painted over when fully dry.

Traditional Creosote is no longer available to the general public and can only be supplied to farmers and other industrial businesses. While we do not stock Creosote, we do stock a substitute called Creosolve which is a more user and environmentally friendly version of Creosote. Barrettine Creosolve is available in both a light and dark brown formula, and it is perfectly suited for use on railway sleepers.

To allow railway sleepers to turn grey or silver over time, whilst protecting them from the elements, we recommend using a clear wood oil or decking oil which doesn't contain any UV filters. This will allow the appearance of the wood to age while keeping it nourished, supple and water-resistant, helping to protect the sleepers from water and frost damage.

This depends on what type of railway sleepers you have. Traditional reclaimed railway sleepers cannot be used for any form of seating or tables as the wood and any splinters can be toxic. However, new reproduction, untreated Pine and Oak railway sleepers are fine as long as they are not treated with a product that's unsuitable for skin or food contact.

In terms of the amount of fence treatment required, yes it does. This is because rough sawn woods are very porous and absorb more treatment than smooth planed wood. This should be taken into consideration if treating a large area of garden fencing. Our Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative page has colour swatches that show the potential colour difference between rough and smooth wood. This illustration should only be used as a guide and not as a substitute for doing a test area.

Because rough sawn fence panels absorb more wood finishing product than smooth planed wood, any colour pigment in the product is likely to look stronger or darker than it would on a smooth piece of timber. Always do a test area to be sure of the colour and final finish before starting any project. It's also worth noting that although wood finish colours may initially look stronger than expected when applied, they usually 'tone-down' after several weeks or months of weathering.

Most wood preservatives are similar in what they do even if specific formulations can differ slightly. Products labelled as 'Shed and Fence Preserver' are often no different from other exterior wood preservers. Using a general purpose exterior wood preservative such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative or Ronseal Total Wood Preservative is absolutely fine.

Using a wood oil on a garden fence is a great way of prolonging the life of fence panels and posts. Decking oils are perfect for use on fence panels as they help to protect the timber from cracking, splitting and warping. They provide excellent weather resistance and are available in both clear and coloured formulations.

When treating a new fence or a bare wood one that hasn't been treated for a number of years, we highly recommend treating the fence panels with 2 coats of an exterior wood preservative prior to oiling. This helps to protect the timber from biological threats such as mould, algae and wood boring insects.

Green algae can usually be cleaned from fence panels by first brushing with a stiff brush or broom to remove as much of the surface growth as possible, then treating with a mould and mildew cleaner such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner. Fence panels that have been become heavily soiled with biological growth may require a second treatment.

Once cleaned, treated and allowed to dry, fence panels should then be treated with a wood preservative, this will help to prevent future growth of mould and algae.

Wood oils help to protect and preserve interior and exterior wood by feeding the timber to to keep it nourished and supple. They are the easiest of all wood finishes to maintain and repair. A patch repair, for example, where a scuff, scratch, stain or areas of wear has occurred can be easily fixed by simply sanding the affected area and applying more wood oil.

Wood oils penetrate into the surface fibres of the wood, where they oxidise with the air and harden. The result is a finish that is dry and non-greasy so will not stain or mark clothing or soft furnishings. If a wood oil does remain sticky or greasy, it has been over applied.

It is always best to stick with the recommended number of coats. If additional coats of oil are applied or if it is applied too thickly, the surplus oil will remain on the surface of the wood. This could result in a number of problems including a sticky, tacky finish; a finish that could take days or longer to fully dry; or a finish that is easily scratched, scuffed and marked. In the worst cases, the surplus surface oil may just scrape or peel off.

In general, most interior wood oils are safe for use on wooden surfaces that are close or come in to direct contact with food. Danish Oils are a good example of an oil that can be used on kitchen worktops, chopping boards and wooden food or fruit bowls. Worktop Oils are a range of wood oils that are specifically formulated to be used on food preparation surfaces. These products offer increased durability whilst enhancing the natural beauty and character of the wood.

Varnish can be used on wooden worktops with some containing anti-bacterial properties. Our advice however is to use a worktop oil as they are easier to maintain and repair. Varnishes are fine all the while they remain intact. In kitchens however they are subjected to sharp objects that can break the seal between varnish and worktop allowing moisture penetration. Over time, this can lead to cracking, peeling and flaking, a situation that won't happen with a worktop oil.

We wouldn't recommend using a wood oil that is specifically formulated for exterior use on interior wood. This is because many exterior wood oils contain additional additives such as fungicides, insecticides and biocides to combat mould, algae, insect attack and wood rot, making them unsuitable for use on interior surfaces.

While both products provide a clear, satin finish with very low V.O.C content and are made from a unique combination of natural oils and waxes, the main difference between the Osmo UV Protection Oil (410) and Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra (420) is that the 420 contains fungicides and biocides to protect against mould, algae and fungal growth. For this reason, the 410, which doesn't contain fungicides and biocides, can be used on interior and exterior wood surfaces whereas the 420 is just for exterior use.

While you can oil exterior wood without using a preservative first, we recommend using a wood preservative. Whilst wood oils protect against the effects of weathering, rain and sun damage, a preserver will protect the wood against mould, algae, wood boring insects and rot, elements that a wood oil alone cannot protect against.

This depends on what sort of preservative and what sort of paint is being used. Normal tanalised wood for example can usually be painted with any suitable exterior wood paint. If the wood is to be treated with an exterior wood preservative, then painted with a water based exterior wood paint, it's important to ensure that the wood preservative being used does not contain any wax, oil or silicon, as these will repel the water content of the paint and prevent it from sticking or adhering to the wood. We recommend that when preserving and painting wood, a test area is treated first to check product suitability and compatibility.

The colour on the new fence panels is unlikely to match the colour of the old panels even when treated with the same product. Unfortunately, this is the nature of wood. Every piece of wood is affected by type, age and condition and will respond differently when a wood finishing product such as a coloured wood preservative is applied. If the older panels appear to be a lighter colour than the new treated ones, an additional coat of preservative can be applied to the older panels to strengthen the colour and achieve a better colour match to the new or vice versa. The colour of newly applied preservative will settle down after a couple of weeks of weathering.

Commercial bar tops are subjected to extreme wear and tear. the only products that we can confidently recommend for these conditions are Sadolin PV67 Heavy Duty Varnish and Manns Trade Bar Top Lacquer. Both are extremely durable but also extremely smelly during application, due to their high VOC content. Good ventilation is essential when applying these products.

The wood preservers we sell are safe for man, animal and plants when fully dry. This makes them suitable for use on dog kennels, horse stables and other animal enclosures. By their nature, wood preservatives are designed to protect wood from wood boring insects so are therefore not suitable for use on beehives or insect houses. if you would like to protect your beehive or insect house choose a product without biocides and insecticides.

Wood preservatives are harmful to aquatic systems such as fish ponds and will likely kill the fish if any is splashed or leaks in to the fish pond. If possible, the wood should be taken to a safe location away from the pond and treated. It should then be allowed to dry for the full manufacturers recommended drying time. We recommend treating the wood after preserving with a suitable exterior wood oil before relocating back to the pond areas. The oil will help to seal in the preservative and further protect the wood from the damp and moist environment.

Danish oil is perfectly fine for kitchen worktops as it's made from natural ingredients and is both food and child safe when dry. Dedicated worktop oils offer better durability, longevity and require less coats (typically 2 for new worktops or 1 for previously oiled worktops. They also require less maintenance than Danish Oils. Dedicated work top oils are also food and child safe when dry with some offering anti-bacterial properties. Worktop oils also tend to change the colour of the wooden worktops less than Danish Oils

A wood stain is anything that changes the colour and appearance of wood. Although there are dedicated wood stain products, there are also many wood oils, waxes, varnishes and preservatives that both treat and colour interior and exterior wood.

The type of wood stain largely depends on the type of project and the type of finish required. For example, there are a huge range of stain colours, many that are 'wood tone' colours and others that are the primary colours. Wood stains are divided into those that require a top coat of varnish, oil or wax to seal in the colour, and those that are an all-in-one stain and sealer such as coloured waxes, varnishes and oils.

The black stains around the taps and sink are likely to be mould spores in the work top as a result of prolonged water ingress in to the wood. If left untreated, this will ultimately lead to wood rot and decay. The affected areas should be sanded back to bare wood and treated with a mould and mildew cleaner such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner, several applications may be required if the discoloration is bad. Once fully dried the whole worktop should be treated with a worktop oil to prevent further water ingress and future mould. For additional protection, a coat of Osmo Wood Protector (4006) can be applied prior to oiling. This product offers excellent water repellency.

In the context of pure wood stains and dyes, wood dyes are simply more concentrated than stains allowing them to be thinned if required or intermixed with compatible products to colour and tint them.

Water-based stains are safe, low odour and very easy to apply. As they have very little smell, they're ideal for use on internal projects in confined spaces, such as for finishing wooden furniture and home crafts.

Solvent-based wood stains are very quick drying, usually just 5 to 10 minutes. Unlike water-based stains that may raise the grain of the wood slightly, solvent-based stains do not, meaning a smoother surface and finish can be achieved. Solvent-based stains are also more compatible with high moisture environment such as kitchens and bathrooms.

There are two types of wood stain. Most solvent or water-based stains just colour the wood. These stains need to be sealed in with a varnish, wax or oil. However, some products marketed as wood stains are all-in-one products that colour and protect / seal the wood. In the case of these products, there is no need to overcoat them with another product. If in doubt, always check the details on the back of the tin carefully before purchasing.

In simple terms yes. This can be done by either applying a wood stain then sealing the stain in with a wood oil or varnish, or by using a pigmented or coloured wood oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints, both of which are ideal for kitchen worktops, are food and child safe when dry and are easy to maintain and repair.

Varnishes are tough, hard wearing and easily cleaned. Wood varnish is generally more durable than a wax or oil but is not as easy to maintain or repair if it becomes worn or damaged.

In a word, no. The trade tends to refer to them as "lacquers" and the public tend to refer to them as "varnishes", but they are ultimately the same thing.

The retail market tends to search for Varnishes while the trade often refers to these products as Lacquers. Our lacquers section includes more solvent-based lacquers which tend to be used more by the trade. Varnishes are mostly water-based products which are recommended for use in the home. There isn't really a great deal of difference between them as a whole, its more familiar terminology

In the early days when water based varnishes were first introduced to the market they were a pale comparison to their solvent-based alternatives. Over the decades the formulations have been vastly improved and they are now as good if not better than many solvent based varnishes. For example, water-based varnishes tend to be clearer (not like the old toffee-apple varnishes of the 60's and 70's) are much less smelly to use in confined spaces, and are safer for both the user and the environment. Many of the toughest and most durable varnishes available today are water-based.

A wax finish has a unique look and feel to other finishes and can make a piece of furniture or other wood look and feel like it's worth much more. It can be re-waxed as many times as you like and buffed until the required sheen level is obtained or indeed left un-buffed if a more natural low sheen look is preferred.

If you are looking for a clear finish and do not need extra durability, we can recommend two types of wax polish depending on the project you are working on: Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish in 'light clear' and Manns Classic Beeswax Polish.

This depends on whether durability or ease of maintenance is the top priority. Varnish is the more durable option but requires a longer maintenance period when it becomes damaged or worn. Old varnish coatings need to be sanded or stripped off before applying fresh coats. Wood oils such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil and Osmo Polyx Oil are very durable, long lasting, easy to maintain and restore without having to strip off the old finish first. Simply clean the table top with a dedicated Ph balanced wood cleaner and apply a fresh coat of oil.

The most durable varnish we currently offer is Sadolin PV67 Heavy Duty Varnish. Normally used for commercial flooring, this product can be used on bar tops and table tops.It is extremely smelly and must be applied in a well ventilated environment, carefully following the manufacturer's instructions at all times.

A great alternative to clear waxes are a group of products that fall in to the 'hard wax oil' category. These products are made from a blend of waxes, oils, resins and solvents to produce a product that is extremely tough and durable, perfect for high wear areas such as wooden doors, floors and furniture. Examples of clear hard wax oils include Fiddes Hard Wax Oil and Osmo Polyx Oil. The main difference between waxes and a hard wax oils is that the oils penetrate in to the surface of the wood grain giving a slightly, almost damp like appearance to the wood. Hard wax oils also enhance and draw out the natural colour of the grain more than a wax. Another alternative is clear varnishes.

The easiest way to remove old wax finishes is to use a Wax and Polish Remover on an abrasive finishing pad. You'll need clean rags to wipe of the dissolved wax. It can then be re-waxed, oiled or varnished. If looking to varnish or paint the table top, it's imperative that all of the old wax is removed and may require several treatments with the wax and polish remover. After each application dampen the table top with water. If there are any areas where the water does not dampen the wood or beads on the surface, treat with the wax and polish remover again until it does.

As with any interior wooden floor, decking should be cleaned and maintained on a regular basis to keep it in tip top condition. There are some great decking cleaners that have been developed to keep decking clean all year round. Please refer to our blog post on how to clean decking for more information, hints and tips.

A concentrated wood cleaner can be mixed with water then applied by slightly dampening a cloth or mop. It is important to let the cleaner and not the water do the work. Using too much water on a varnish, wax or oil will take a little of your finish off each time it is used, which in turn means your floor will have a shorter life. Visit our Wood Cleaners page to see our range of easy to use products.

Oiled surfaces should be cleaned with a gentle, water-soluble cleaner. Everyday detergents contain Lipases, a chemical that is designed to break down natural oils and fats, so these should be avoided.

If this is a bare wood table top we recommend sticking with the manufacturer,s guide of 2 coats. Hard Wax Oils work by penetrating into the surface of the wood and hardening in the wood grain to provide a tough, durable, liquid resistant finish. Applying 3 or 4 coats may result in a build up of wax on the surface of the table top that can be easily marked, scuffed or scratched.

Sheen levels are subjective to a degree as different paint manufacturers have different interpretations of how much reflectivity a matt, satin and gloss paint should have. In general, matt paints produce a finish that has no or very little sheen. These paints are usually used on walls and ceilings and are less likely to show any surface imperfections.

Another way to describe satin is eggshell. In other words, the sheen level is about the same as the surface of an egg when 1 coat has been applied. 2 coats will very slightly increase the sheen level.

Gloss finishes have a higher reflectivity than satin or satin-gloss paints. Some paints and varnishes are even labelled as super-gloss. Typically, you will be able to see a good reflection of objects in a gloss paint. Gloss paints are more commonly used for home fixtures such as skirting boards, architraves, doors and so on.

Chalk paint is a popular product for up-cycling interior furniture. It offers a little protection for surfaces; however it is more of an aesthetic finish. Wax is the most common surface sealer for chalk paints, but you can also use a varnish, taking care not to overwork the varnish, as this can pull the paint. Varnishing over chalk paint will typically 'warm' the colour. E.g. shades of white become creamier.

There are many wood oils that can be used on table tops but for the best durability and longevity, we recommend 'Hard Wax Oils' such as Manns Premier Top Oil or Osmo Top Oil. Hard wax Oils are quick and easy to apply, maintain and repair. Clear oils tend to draw out the natural coloration of the timber which with Pine, can be a can be a yellowy brown or orangey brown colour. To retain the 'freshly sanded' look, we recommend using Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044). These variations of Hard Wax Oil are formulated to counter the natural orange / yellow colouration that clear oils and varnishes can produce, to retain a more natural, unfinished appearance.

Wood waxes and polishes are a great way of increasing the sheen level of bare wooden surfaces without altering the overall appearance or colour too much. We recommend Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish and Manns Classic Beeswax Polish for improving the sheen of wooden surfaces. these products become shinier the more they are buffed and when more wax is applied.

This can depend on the colour and type of finish desired. If a varnished finish is required, the table top can be stained with a water or solvent-based wood stain then over-coated with a highly durable wood varnish. If an oil finish is preferred, there is the option of staining the table with a wood stain first then over-coating with a clear wood oil. Alternatively, there are a range of wood oil tints that colour and seal the table top in one process.

We've put together some useful tips and advice on how to use wood filler on both interior and exterior woodwork in our blog.

For the best overall protection, we recommend that wooden cladding is treated with a wood preservative and wood oil before being installed. Ideally, both sides, edges and cut ends should be treated with 2 coats of wood preservative followed by 2 coats of an exterior wood oil. To do this will likely take several days to allow the recommended drying times between the 4 coats but will be worth it in the long run.

Polyvinyl acetate adhesive (PVA glue) is a remarkably versatile, water-based glue that dries quickly at room temperature with good air circulation. It is non-toxic, doesn't emit harmful fumes and doesn't cause skin irritation. But it should not be ingested. Read more about the versatility of PVA adhesive and its remarkable and varied uses in our blog.

There are a number of exterior wood oils that contain UV filters and stabilisers that are designed to act much like a sun tan cream does to skin. Exterior wood oils such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra help to block moisture and UV rays that strip the natural tannin and pigments from the timber. Although these products greatly slow the greying process, they do not stop it completely.

No, the trade tend to refer to them as "lacquers" and the public tend to refer to them as "varnishes".

The public often feel they don't need a lacquer and sometimes the trade feel they don't need a varnish, so this way we cater for both markets. In our lacquers section we have mainly included solvent-based lacquers, which are mainly used by the trade and in our varnishes section we have water-based products which are recommended for use in the home.

Products such as Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (6609) can help to restore the natural colour of timber. This said, the process involves scrubbing the gel into the cladding and rinsing off with lots of water after around 15 minutes. This may not be practical for large areas of wooden cladding. An alternative is to use a coloured or pigmented UV resistant exterior wood oil to restore the colour such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra.

Although surfaces can be painted or varnished without using a primer, there are benefits to using them. Using a wood primer can offer a cost saving on just using the top-coat product over large areas, for example using a primer on a wooden floor before varnishing. 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of varnish rather than 3 straight coats of varnish. Primers help to provide a smoother, more professional looking finish. They help with adhesion and longevity of the top-coat. Paints that offer a specified time guarantee i.e. '10 years' usually require the use of a specified primer from their range to uphold the guarantee.

In simple terms yes but we would always recommend using a dedicated exterior wood oil over traditional oils such as Danish Oil or Teak Oil. Specialist exterior wood oils are formulated with a blend of oils, resins and UV filters that offer better durability, longevity and protection from Sun and weather damage, making them ideal for wooden cladding. These products tend to be available in both clear and coloured formulations so if cladding has been left untreated for a number of years and has turned grey or silver over time, the appearance can be restored.

Wooden cladding can be made from different wood types, Some such as Red Cedar are more resistant to weathering than others. This said, all woods slowly loose there natural oils becoming dry and brittle over time. For this reason we recommend that all cladding is treated with 2 coats of wood preservative followed by 2 coats of a suitable exterior wood oil, preferably prior to installation and on all sides and ends. This helps to keep the wood protected from mould, algae and insect attack as well as keeping the wood supple and weather resistant.

We are often asked questions about the best way to strip paint and varnish from wood. Luckily there are some great products available today that make it a breeze. But there are 3 approaches that you might take. Sanding, a hot air gun or some form of stripper. But there are things that you need to know in order to make the right choice. For example, a hot air gun is not good for removing varnish as it will simply melt the varnish and make it gooey.

We've put together a very comprehensive blog post which provides all the information you need to make the right paint stripping choice for your project.

We recommend the use of a dedicated wax and polish remover along with an abrasive scotch pad and lots of clean, lint free cloth such as an old cotton T-shirt or bedding to remove wax.

In most cases yes with the proper preparation. We offer a wide range of coloured paints and varnishes that can be brush or spray applied to change the appearance of old kitchen cabinet doors. Manns Classic Interior Paint is a fantastic product for kitchen cabinets. It is as strong and durable as a varnish but with the covering power and sleek, smooth finish of a paint. Available in a wide range of colours for almost any kitchen!

Essentially there is no difference between a stain and a dye, they are both coloured liquids that don't offer a sheen or protection, they simply colour the wood. Our wood dyes are very concentrated and are usually available in primary and secondary colours. Sometimes a product may have the word "stain" in its title even though it is a protective coating also. However, we believe that a wood stain should simply stain the wood and not do anything else because a better result will be achieved if clear coats are applied on top of a stain.

Yes. All of the colours in the Manns Classic Wood Dye range can be intermixed to create new shades and diluted with water up to 50/50 to lighten the shade.

This can vary depending on the type of dye being applied (water-based or solvent-based) but this stands as good general advice. Always read the manufacturers guidance on the product tin / container.

Mix the wood dye thoroughly before and periodically during use.

Best applied using a synthetic bristle brush, sponge, foam applicator or spray gun. A foam sponge is highly recommended when working on large flat pieces, as any heavily stained areas can be soaked up by the sponge as you work. Similarly by applying a little more pressure, more of the wood dye can be released to save time returning to the container for more.

Apply a generous coat in the direction of the wood grain leaving a little on the surface and wipe off any excess dye as you go with a clean, lint-free cloth. Allow the dye to fully dry.

Denib (lightly sand) using a fine finishing pad to loosen and remove any dry, powdery dye residue from the wood surface. Take care to remove all traces of dust with a vacuum cleaner or clean, dry microfibre cloth before sealing the dye with a suitable top coat.

Kitchen cabinets can become greasy and sticky over time if they're not cleaned on a regular basis. These build ups of grease, fat and other organic matter can be difficult to break down and remove. Barrettine Sugar Soap Concentrate is great at cutting through this sort of grime and will have kitchen cabinets looking like new in no time.

In simple terms yes. Care must be taken however when applying the first coat of varnish over the stain. If using a brush or roller the first coat of varnish should be lightly applied and not overworked by repeated brushing or rolling. Excessive working of the varnish on top of the stain will re-hydrate the stain and may result in the dragging of the colour or the colour becoming intermixed with the clear varnish. A way to avoid this is to use solvent-based stains under water-based varnishes or water-based stains under solvent-based varnishes.

There are a wide range of coloured or pigmented waxes that can be used to change the appearance or add character to new and old wooden furniture. Waxes such as Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish can be applied directly on to bare wood or previously waxed interior furniture. We stock a full range of furniture waxes that can be used to renew, revive, and restore wooden furniture.

Although steam cleaners are routinely advertised for cleaning wooden floors we strongly advice against this. The high-pressure steam introduced by steam cleaners is likely to degrade, damage or strip any wood finish over time. There's also a danger that the steam can penetrate the wood of the floor, potentially causing swelling, warping or splitting of the wood. For this reason, we always recommend that wooden floors are only dry swept, vacuumed or cleaned with a slightly dampened cloth or mop, using only a dedicated, Ph balanced wooden floor cleaner.

For day to day cleaning of wooden floors we recommend using a vacuum cleaner then dry sweeping with a microfibre cloth or mop. Vacuuming first picks up any loose grit and other sharp particles that could potentially scratch the surface of the floor finish. Using a dry microfibre cloth or floor mop that is statically charged will help to pick up any remaining dust or fluff from the floor. As part of a weekly cleaning program, wooden floors can be cleaned with a slightly dampened (never saturated or wet) cloth or mop in conjunction with a dedicated floor surface cleaner.

This is a difficult question to answer as it can depend on the type of substrate, the preparation of the substrate, the application and type of paint and the amount of weathering that the surface is subjected to. As an example, paint on a cliff top property that is subjected to high winds and sea air will wear more quickly than paint on a sheltered town house. Some manufacturers supply paints that are advertised lasting up to a specified number of years as long as the correct preparation and application conditions are met.

If the furniture is new, untreated or tanalised wood then the answer is likely to be yes. We recommend using a dedicated garden paint such as Cuprinol Garden Shades or Ronseal Garden Paint and doing a small test area, on the underside of the table or chair first to test colour and product suitability.

Old garden furniture that has been left untreated for a number of years and where the wood has turned grey or silver over time can usually be lightly sanded then painted. Water-based garden paints can be problematic on new garden furniture made from dense, exotic hardwoods such as Teak, or furniture that has an oiled finish.

Older garden furniture that has been affected by mould, algae and other biological matter must be thoroughly cleaned prior to painting with a mould and mildew cleaner.

If left unprotected and not maintained, wooden garden furniture can soon start to look tired and neglected. Common issues include green or black discolouration as a result of mould, algae and other biological growth. If left untreated for a number of years, the wood will eventually turn grey or silver. The good news is that these issues can usually be resolved.

For mould, algae and other biological growth we recommend using a garden furniture cleaner. Heavily soiled furniture may require 2 treatments.

To help restore the colour of wood that has turned grey or silver, we recommend using Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (6609) or Cuprinol Garden Furniture Restorer. Wood that has been grey / silver for a number of years may require 2 treatments of the selected wood restorer.

To protect cleaned and restored garden furniture prior to oiling, we recommend using an exterior wood preservative, suitable for garden furniture.

To re-nourish, protect and restore the appearance of wooden garden furniture, we recommend using a garden furniture oil.

Active woodworm needs to be treated with a woodworm killer. The wood should then be treated with a suitable interior or exterior wood preservative which will help to prevent future infestation. See our full range of woodworm treatment products and wood preservatives. Wood that has been finished such as furniture, floorboards and doors should be stripped of any wax, oil, varnish or paint to ensure that the woodworm treatment and following preservative is able to effectively penetrate in to the surface of the wood grain. If you want to use a water based paint over a preservative use one that does not contain wax.

There is no straight answer as to which is the best paint stripping product. This is because paints and varnishes are made to different formulations by the various manufacturers and where one paint stripper works well on one type of paint, it might not perform as well on another. For this we recommend buying a sample or the smallest tin size first to test the effectiveness of the stripper on the paint or varnish to be removed.

Products that have repeat positive feed back are Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover, PeelAway 1 and PeelAway 7 Paint Removers. Paint panther is more suited to normal day to day paint stripping whereas the PeelAway products are great for removing and restoring objects that originally had a highly decorated surface that has been infilled by paint over the years. The PeelAway paint removal system is especially useful for removing paint from ornate and highly detailed fireplaces, furniture, plaster coving, cornices and ceiling roses.

Removing paint from brick walls can be tricky because of the textured surface. For thick, multiple layers of paint, our first option would be the Peelaway removal system. We recommend trying the PeelAway 1 and 7 Sample Twin Pack first to find out which product is the most effective on your paint type.You could try a small test area using a conventional paint stripper such as Paint Panther, paint and varnish remover then rinsing off the treated area with a jet washer. It's worth noting that the pressure shouldn't be too high as to splash the stripper over other areas and plants. care should also be taken not to wash out any loose render between the bricks.

This depends on the type of wood stain used. Some wood stains are simply colouring liquids that colour the surface of the wood by soaking in to and staining the surface grain. These types of wood stains require a top coat of varnish, wax or oil to seal in and protect the colour and can be removed by scrubbing the surface with the relevant thinner. E.g. Water or white spirits. Sanding is also effective (or both).

Many products labelled as 'wood stains' in DIY chains are coloured varnishes, they are a sealer mixed with pigments that both colour and protect the wood. These types of wood stains can be removed with a paint and varnish remover.

When filling gaps in floorboards it's important to use a filler that is both strong and flexible. This is to allow for the movement of the floor boards when walked on plus the shrinking and expansion of the gaps because of temperature and moisture changes. General wood fillers can crack and fall into the gaps over time. We recommend Bona Gap Master or Osmo Interior Gap Sealer. Both fillers are ideal for sealing gaps between floor boards prior to sanding and finishing.

Minor scratches on stained wood can spoil the appearance of wooden furniture and other wooden surfaces. Using a product such as, Colron Liquid Scratch Cover can help to disguise the affected area.

For deeper scratches and other surface imperfections Colron Wax Repair Sticks or Morrells Wax Filler Sticks may be a better option. Wax filler sticks can be easily melted and intermixed to better match the colour of the surface to be repaired.

There are a wide range of wood fillers including water-based, solvent-based, single-part, 2-pack, coloured and neutral, which is best is largely down to the type of project and the requirements of the filler. For example, flexible fillers are better for filling gaps between floorboards, 2-pack fillers are more durable and can be nailed and screwed. Gel fillers that are mixed with sanding dust can produce a more natural 'wood like' repair that can be sanded and stained to match the surrounding wood. See our full range of wood fillers to find the one that's best for your project.

Interior Oak veneer doors can be treated with either a wax, oil or varnish. Using a clear door oil or varnish will enhance the natural grain and character of the wood, they will also slightly darken the wood to give it an almost damp-like appearance. Using a clear wax such as Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish will keep Oak veneered doors looking natural but offer less protection than oils and varnishes against scratches and scuffs.

For durability, varnishes offer the best protection. For ease of maintenance and repair from minor scratches, scuffs and scrapes, we recommend using a door oil or wax. Always check with the door manufacturer's guidance before applying a finish to a door.

Slippery decking usually occurs when timber decking boards develop mould, algae or other biological growth, usually identifiable by green or black staining in the wood. This normally happens on bare wood decking that hasn't been treated or previously oiled decking that hasn't been maintained for a number of years.

Remove as much of the surface growth as possible with a stiff broom, brush or scraper. When done, treat the decking with a decking cleaner and one that is designed to kill off mould and algae spores in the wood. Heavily soiled decking may require a second treatment. Then apply an exterior wood preservative to help prevent future biological growth before applying a decking oil. For additional anti-slip properties, use a slip resistant decking oil such as Osmo Anti Slip Decking Oil (430) which is especially good for decking steps.

To stop decking from becoming slippery again, keep well maintained by regularly sweeping off any leaves or other organic matter, cleaning from time to time with a dedicated decking cleaner and then re-oiling as and when necessary.

The ability to repair scratches on wood floors largely depends on the type of finish the floor has and how deep the scratches are. Minor scratches on oiled floors can usually be repaired with ease. Vacuum the floor first to remove all traces of dust and dirt. Clean the affected area with a dedicated Ph balanced wood floor cleaner. Apply a thin coat of floor oil, preferably the same brand and sheen as the one already applied, and work into the surface of the wood. This will restore the look of the affected area.

The appearance of minor scratches and dull patches on varnished floors can be improved by treating the floor with a varnish maintenance product such as Bona Freshen Up. This product cannot be used on varnishes floors that have then been waxed or polished, unless all the wax and polish is removed first. For varnished floors that have been waxed and polished, we recommend Bona Polish.

Minor scratches on waxed floors can be repaired in much the same way as oiled floors. Clean the affected area first then apply fresh wax, preferably the same brand and type as that already used on the floor. This will restore the damaged area and will blend in with the rest of the floor.

Yes, almost any interior wood coating can be over coated with a wax polish to improve the look and sheen. In some cases, a wax polish is applied to decrease the gloss level. For example, a glossy lacquer with a glass like shine can have more of a silky sheen when wax is applied.

Buffing machines are ideal for large floor areas, for example when using Bona Polish. Cloths are used for other areas when using something like Manns Classic Beeswax Polish. Good quality Stockinette Cloth is ideal due to its woven, coarse structure.

We do not recommend using these products between floorboards as they don't offer enough flexibility. This product is designed for engineered and parquet flooring. We would recommend the Bona Gap Master or the Osmo Interior Gap Sealer.

Yes. Wax can be applied over almost any other wood finish including stain, oil, varnish and paint. Although we do always recommend a test area to ensure that you are happy with the result.

We always recommend the Manns trade extra tough pro lacquer for internal projects that have heavy wear and tear. This is a two part water based lacquer that provides excellent water resistant and durability. We always get excellent feedback and it can be recommended for domestic and commercial environments.

The Bona Vertical is the best adhesive for finger parquet flooring and very narrow boards. It offers good 'elasticity' and is a one component adhesive.

Yes, over-application of wood oil can be easily remedied by dampening a clean, lint free cloth in white spirit and wiping off the excess oil. Take care not to use too much white spirit and wipe in the direction of the wood grain. This will break down and remove the surplus oil from the surface of the wood.

PU Glue is just an abbreviation for Polyurethane Glue. Polyurethane glues are made from chemicals sharing similar chemistry. It is a polymer composed of units of organic chains joined by urethane or carbamate links.

PU Glues have many benefits and can be used to stick most things including different materials together. It is successful in bonding non porous materials such as metal to wood, or mirrors to walls. Some compositions have a long work time of 20 or more. This allows for leisurely working and clamping time. Depending on the glue it can set quite quickly after clamping and allow the user to continue work as the glue completes its curing. A major advantage over many adhesives is its ability to set in high moisture conditions. IN fact it needs moisture to set and will cure faster in conditions where other glues, such as epoxy, cannot be used.

Water-based wood lacquers are very easy to apply. They are low odour and easy to work with in small spaces or confined areas. Solvent-based lacquers are also relatively easy to apply. Some however have a very strong smell and should only be used in well ventilated or open spaces to allow for the fumes to dissipate and escape. Care should be taken when applying a water-based lacquer over a water-based stain or a solvent-based lacquer over a solvent stain to avoid dragging of the colour. Apply the first coat thinly and carefully, subsequent coats can then be applied in the normal way.

Single part lacquers can be used straight from the container or tin and are perfect for use in most domestic environments. 2-pack or 2-part lacquers come with a hardener that is inter-mixed with the lacquer. 2-pack lacquers tend to be more durable than single part lacquers and dry more quickly, making them ideal for commercial flooring and other high wear surfaces.

The advice on how to protect wooden garden furniture can depend on if the furniture is new or old, untreated or pre-treated, and what type of wood it is made from.

Generally speaking, most wooden garden furniture is either tanalised or oiled. New and old softwood and hardwood garden furniture is usually maintained by periodically applying a garden furniture oil. If the furniture has not been treated for a number of years, has green or black staining, or has turned grey or silver, it will need several treatments to restore its appearance. See the question on 'how to clean garden furniture' for a step by step guide and the products we recommend.

Read our blog posts on how Your Wooden Garden Furniture Can Outlive You and How to Put Spring Back Into Garden Furniture for further tips and advice.

Teak garden furniture is highly resistant to weathering and usually just needs cleaning with a garden furniture cleaner and a fresh treatment of Teak Oil to restore the appearance of tired looking wood.

Teak garden furniture that has turned grey or silver should be treated with a wood restorer such as Cuprinol Garden Furniture Restorer or Osmo Wood Reviver Power Gel prior to applying garden furniture oil. This will help to restore the original colour of the wood prior to oiling.

Knowing what type of wood finish a piece of furniture has may not always be obvious. For example, matt varnish can look like a wax or oil finish whereas a gloss oil or a highly buffed wax finish may look like a varnish.

One simple test is to lightly scrape the surface of the wood with a finger nail or the edge of a coin in an inconspicuous area, such as the underside of a table or chair or near the bottom, inside edge of a leg. If the furniture has been waxed, small traces of the wax will easily come away when scraped.

Another test is to lightly dampen a 'white' cloth with white spirit and gently rub an inconspicuous area. If the furniture has been oiled, the white spirit will remove some of the oil, making it visible on the cloth.

If neither of the above methods remove any finish, it's pretty much safe to say that the furniture has been varnished.

There are a number of clear and coloured exterior varnishes suitable for garden furniture. An alternative to an exterior varnish is a clear or coloured exterior wood oil. These are easier to maintain and less problematic in the long term.

The type of wood treatment required to preserve and protect railway sleepers depends on the type of sleeper and the desired effect. Reclaimed Oak or other exotic hardwood railway sleepers are likely to last for at least 25 years as long as they are not buried in the ground or submerged in water. Left untreated they are likely to just turn silver or grey over time as the tanning in the surface fibres of the timber are bleached out by the sun and removed by water. For many, the grey, weathered appearance is exactly what is required. If you're looking to retain the colour for longer, a clear decking oil with UV filters will help. The oil will nourish the wood and repel water, helping to prevent the wood from cracking and splitting over time. It's worth noting that some reclaimed railway sleepers can go very dark, almost black, when a clear wood oil is applied.

New reproduction sleepers are available in both Oak and Pine. Oak reproduction sleepers will naturally last longer than their softwood alternative. Both types should be treated with an exterior wood preservative on all sides prior to installation and paying special attention to any sawn ends. They can then be treated with a clear or coloured decking oil, again preferably on all sides and cut ends prior to installation.

This depends on the type of railway sleepers you have. Reclaimed railway sleepers are usually made from high grade Oak or other dense exotic hardwood, and have usually been treated with Creasote, Tar or some other industrial grade preservative. Reclaimed railway sleepers are likely to last for decades above ground if left untreated. This said, applying a wood preservative or wood oil will help to protect the timber for longer.

Reproduction railway sleepers are usually made from Oak or Pine. They can be bought untreated and pre-preserved. It is worth checking this with the supplier if you are unsure. A new, preserved sleeper will have a greenish brown tinge much like a new fence panel.

New reproduction sleepers will benefit from the use of a wood preserver and an exterior wood oil such as Manns Premier UV Decking Oil. Where possible, treat all sides and cut ends prior to installation.

Wooden summerhouses can be treated with a variety of wood care products to protect, preserve and enhance the appearance of these outdoor structures. exterior wood paints can add colour whilst protecting the wood from weathering. An alternative to paint is a clear or coloured exterior wood varnish.

For larger summer-houses, our recommendation is to use an exterior wood oil such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra or Fiddes Exterior High Build Wood Oil. Wood oils help to keep the wood nourished and supple therefore helping to prevent cracking, splitting and warping of the summerhouse timbers. They are also easy to apply and maintain and will not crack, peel or flake off. Another great alternative is Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment.

This depends on what the summerhouse is being used for and how often it's being used. Although interior walls and floors can be left untreated, treating them can help to protect the wood, make cleaning far easier and add some colour and style to the interior of your summer house.

For floors, use a dedicated flooring product such as Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Paint, Ronseal Diamond Hard Coloured Floor Varnish or for a clear finish, Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish.

Hard Wax Oils such as Osmo Polyx Oil and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil will help to protect the natural wood of the floor from dust, dirt and grime whilst making it easier to clean. Walls and ceilings can also be painted, varnished or oiled if desired. It's worth noting that clear oils and varnishes on pine timbers will draw out the natural colour and grain of the wood. In some cases this can produce a fairly strong orange or yellow colouration to the wood. For this reason we always recommend trialling a test area before proceeding with the project.

In a word, yes. Interior wood oils are durable, long lasting, easy to clean and easy to maintain and repair. This makes them ideal for use on summerhouse walls and floors to keep them protected.

Using an exterior wood preservative prior to painting will help to protect the wood from mould, algae and insect attack. When selecting a wood preserver however, be sure to pick one that is wax, oil and silicon free. Preservers that contain any of these elements may prevent or reduce the ability of the paint to bond with the surface of the summer-house. For this reason we always recommend doing a test area before starting any project.

Exterior wood preservers that contain wax or oil are fine to use if the summerhouse is going to be oiled rather than painted.

Green and black staining on the wood is usually a result of mould, mildew or fungi growth in and on the surface of the wood. Our recommendation is to clean the wood with a dedicated wood cleaner such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner or other exterior wood cleaner, to remove and kill any biological growth on the wood. For heavy soiling, a second application of wood cleaner may be required. If there is a large physical build up of moss and mould, scrape off as much of the surface matter as possible before applying the wood cleaner.

If the summer house was previously untreated, we recommend that once thoroughly cleaned, the bare wood is treated with 2 coats of an exterior wood preservative such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative

Our advice on how to waterproof a shed, especially a new shed is to treat all exterior facing sides and panel edges with 2 coats of an exterior wood preservative, followed by 2 coats of an exterior wood oil prior to the shed being constructed.

Older sheds or sheds that have recently been constructed should first be cleaned with a wood cleaner such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner. This is to remove and kill off any mould, mildew or algae spores that are either on the surface or in the surface of the wood fibres. once this has been done, treat all visible surfaces as above with 2 coats of an exterior wood preserver followed by 2 coats of an exterior wood oil suitable for sheds or a decking oil. This will provide an excellent weather protective finish that can be easily maintained year after year by simply applying a maintenance coat of wood oil.

An alternative to the above is to use a high quality exterior wood paint or an Exterior wood varnish.

Garden paints that are suitable for garden fences come in a wide range of colours and formulations. All are designed to colour and protect garden fences from weathering. Two popular products we offer are Cuprinol Garden Shades Paint and Ronseal Garden Paint, both of which are ideal for wooden fence panels and posts.

It's worth noting that there are a wide range of wood preservatives and exterior wood oils that also colour and protect garden wood and can also be used on wooden fence panels and posts. See our full range of garden fence treatments here.

There are many ways to colour the exterior of a log cabin depending on the colour and type of finish required. New or previously untreated log cabins can be coloured with a pigmented wood preserver such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative, then sealed with a clear exterior wood oil such as Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment. This will provide excellent weather protection and is easily maintained year after year by simply applying a maintenance coat of log cabin treatment. An alternative approach is to use a clear exterior wood preservative such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative then overcoat with a coloured exterior wood oil suitable for log cabins, again very easy to apply and maintain year on year.

An alternative approach to wood oils is to use either a clear or coloured exterior varnish or an exterior garden paint such as Cuprinol Garden Shades or Ronseal Garden Paint.

In this country, log cabins typically don't look like the log cabins made from whole or half cut logs. Log cabins are usually bigger than a typical shed and are made from thicker lengths of timber than a garden shed. They are structurally stronger and better insulated making them perfect for use as an external dwelling if required. Sometimes log cabins are referred to as summer houses and vice versa.

This sounds like biological growth of mould, mildew or algae and is often the result of damp conditions. To clean this and help prevent occurrence in the future we recommend the following. Scrape off as much surface growth as possible with a paint scraper, stiff brush or broom. Use Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner to clean off any remaining growth, this product will also kill off any remaining mould or algae spores in the surface of the wood. Two treatments may be required if the log cabin timbers are heavily soiled.

For new or untreated log cabins, follow the above then treat with 2 coats of Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative which will help protect the wood from future biological growth and woodworm etc. Finally treat with Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment which will protect the wood from moisture and water ingress.

Exterior wood naturally turns grey over time as a result of sun and water damage. The best way to protect the timber from turning grey is to use a coloured wood oil such as Holzol Weather Oil. The combination of UV filters and coloured pigments in the oil help to reduce the bleaching effects of the sun whilst nourishing the timber This helps to keep the wood supple therefore helping to prevent cracking, warping and splitting of the wood fibres.

If a clear finish is desired, use a clear decking oil such as Manns Premier UV Decking Oil or Barrettine Decking Oil. These products contain UV filters or stabilisers and will slow down the damaging effects of sun and water damage, much like a sun tan cream does for skin. Although these products slow down the bleaching and discoloration of the natural wood colour they will not stop it completely.

Using a lightly pigmented or coloured wood oil offers better protection than a clear finish. This said, maintaining the oil with a fresh maintenance coat each year will help to maintain the colour of the final finish.

The amount of garden fence treatment needed for a given project can vary and is dependent on the type of product being used, the area of wooden fence to be treated and to a degree, the type and the condition of the wood. For this reason, each of the product pages on our site have a handy 'coverage calculator'. Simply calculate the area to be covered, in either feet or meters and our coverage calculator will give you an estimate of how many litres of fence treatment are required. It's worth remembering that the figure given is an estimate as factors such as the porosity of wood, condition and application method can all have an influence on the coverage of a product. That said it's rare we hear from customers saying the amount of product ordered was not enough.

To protect and maintain the appearance of a new Oak staircase, either a wood varnish, oil or wax can be applied.

Wood waxes have been used for centuries on wooden floors and staircases. Although clear wax polishes are good at retaining the untreated appearance of the wood, they don't offer much durability and can wear quickly requiring frequent re-application of the wax. Wood waxes tend to mark easily with liquid spillages.

Another consideration is that the sheen of a wax increases the more it is buffed. It's worth noting that with repeated 'sock traffic', areas of the stair treads will become more shiny than the surrounding wood as the wax is effectively buffed by the socks.

Wood varnishes offer excellent durability with some such as Bona Traffic HD Anti Slip offering anti slip properties. Using a clear varnish will darken the wood grain giving it a slightly damp-like appearance. Varnishes also enhance the natural character, grain and colouration of the Oak. A good test is to dampen a clean kitchen sponge or cloth and wipe over one of the stairs. This will give an approximation of what the staircase will look like when varnished in terms of colour and tone.

Wood oils also provide excellent durability, are easy to apply and maintain. One of the main benefits of a wood oil is that they are very easy to patch repair if an area becomes worn, scuffed or lightly scratched. The affected area can usually be restored by re-applying a thin coat of oil to the damaged area. As with varnishes, clear wood oils will give a slightly darker, damp like appearance and will enhance the natural colour and grain of the timber. Products such as Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are designed to counter this keeping the wood looking more like its untreated state whilst still offering the same level of protection. As with varnish, there are anti-slip wood oils such as Osmo Polyx Oil Anti-Slip.

Although an unlikely option for a new Oak staircase, the final option is to paint it with a wood paint that is suitable for staircases. If painting a staircase, it's important to only use a paint that is durable enough to withstand the day to day wear and tear of foot traffic. Paints that are not specifically designed for floors and staircases will soon start to wear or come away from the wood.

Only use a paint that is specifically formulated and durable enough for use on wooden floors such as Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Paint. General purpose paints are likely to wear quickly requiring the staircase to be stripped or repainted.

If the staircase is new or has recently been stripped back to bare wood, it can be treated with an anti-slip varnish such as Bona Traffic HD Anti Slip or a wood oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil Anti-Slip.

Previously oiled starcases can be treated with a thin maintenance coat of Osmo Polyx Oil Anti-Slip.

Changing the colour and appearance of a Pine staircase can be done by either staining the wood with a liquid wood stain such as Manns Classic Pine Stain, Manns Trade Light Fast Wood Stain or Morrells Light Fast Wood Stain. These types of wood stains must be overcoated and sealed into the wood with a top coat of clear varnish or clear wood oil.

An alternative approach is to stain the stairs or staircase with a pre-tinted wood oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or a coloured varnish such as Ronseal Diamond Hard Coloured Floor Varnish.

Coloured wood oils tend to look good but tinted varnishes obscure the grain to an extent. They are convenient and save having to stain separately but they don't enhance tthe grain in the same way.

See our full range of clear and coloured finishes for wooden stairs and staircases here.

Areas of wear and minor damage such as surface scratches on an oiled wooden staircase can be easily repaired. Simply clean the affected area with a dedicated interior wood cleaner to remove all traces of surface dirt, dust and debris. Allow the area to fully dry, especially if the water / cleaner has penetrated in to the surface of the wood. Apply a thin coat of clear wood oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil to the affected areas. This will restore the appearance of the oiled staircase finish making it look like new again.

The wooden floor of a log cabin can be protected and sealed like any wooden floor with a floor oil or floor varnish. This will help to protect the floor and prevent dirt, grime and moisture from penetrating into the wood and ruining it over time. Finishing the floor also makes them easier to clean and maintain.

Interior walls and ceiling can be oiled, varnished or painted to personal preference. This again protects the wood from dirt and moisture making the interior of log cabin easier to clean and maintain.

Exterior wood naturally turns grey or silver over time (especially Oak, Iroko and Idigbo) as a result of sun and water damage. This happens fastest with unprotected or bare wood, or wood that has been treated with a clear wood finish that doesn't contain any UV filters or stabilisers.

For a bare wood log cabin or one that hasn't been treated for a number of years, the natural colour of the wood can be restored by using Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (6609). This product must be scrubbed into the surface of the wood with a scotch pad, stiff brush or other abrasive pad. After around 20 minutes, the gel must be rinsed off with lots of clean water. The natural colour of the wood will start to return within a couple of hours but can take up to 24 hours. For wood that has been grey for a long time, a second application and rinse down may be required.

We have a number of wood paints suitable for exterior windows, frames and sills, one of these is Ronseal 10 Year Weatherproof Wood Paint - Gloss. Available in a range of colours including pure brilliant white and black, this weatherproof wood paint offers up to 10 years wood protection. If a satin finish is preferred, consider Ronseal 10 Year Weatherproof Wood Paint - Satin..

As with all wood finishing products, the key to a long-lasting finish is in the preparation and the application of the product.

Before filling any rotten areas, it's important to remove as much loose and rotten wood as possible. We recommend treating the affected area with Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener first to stabilise and harden the damaged and immediately surrounding areas. Once treated and prepped, any rotten or damaged areas can be filled using Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler. Once this has set hard the repaired area should be sanded smooth ready for applying an exterior wood primer and paint.

This can depend on which part of the window frame is to be filled and what type of finish the window frame will be coated with once repaired. Some wood fillers are only suitable for interior use while others are formulated for exterior use. If the window frame is to be painted after repair it doesn't matter if you use a filler that has a solid opaque colour as it will be covered by the paint. If the window is being treated with a semi-translucent coating system such as Sikkens or Sadolin, you'll need the repaired area to look more like wood so we recommend Fiddes Wood Filler Gel. These types of filler are mixed with sanding dust, (it is preferable to use dust from the wood that is to be filled which helps to produce a better colour match), to produce a wood filler paste that is essentially half made of wood and therefore will absorb the wood finishing product in a more similar way to the wood surrounding it. Once coated with a semi-translucent finish, the repaired area will be less visible than with a standard opaque wood filler.

See our full range of fillers suitable for windows, frames and sills.

There are several flexible wood fillers that are ideal for sealing small gaps between window frames and walls. Bona Gap Master comes in a range of colours and is ideal for sealing interior gaps between window frames and walls. Cuprinol All Purpose Wood Filler, also available in several colours can be used for both interior and exterior gaps.

Although there are many coloured exterior varnishes, 2 brands that are considered by many to be the best in the market are Sadolin and Sikkens. These stain systems offer excellent durability by combining a base stain with a matching colour top coat. These top coats have a wear layer that can be easily maintained by re-coating when it starts to lose it's sheen or weatherproofing properties.

This products are ideal for all soft and hardwood timbers although some exotic hardwoods such as Teak and Iroko require more careful preparation prior to staining.

Removing paint from a brick wall with a conventional paint stripper such as Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover can be fiddly due to the nature of the textured surface of bricks and stone, and not easily being able to use a paint scraper. An alternative product that works well on brick, concrete and plaster walls, interior and exterior, is PeelAway. This is a poultice (paste like product) that is applied to the surface of the wall to be stripped, then covered with a plastic blanket (supplied) to prevent the paste from drying out too quickly. The poultice works by dissolving and absorbing the paint and pulling it away from the wall when the poultice is removed. It's perfect for removing paint from textured surfaces or surfaces with detailing. Our recommendation is to try the PeelAway 1 and 7 Sample Twin Pack to find out which remover is effective on the paint that is to be removed. It may be the case that PeelAway 7 is needed for the top coats and PeelAway 1 for deeper, older coats of paint.

The PeelAway paint removal system comes in 2 variations. PeelAway 1 Paint Remover is a caustic based paint stripper that is better on older paints from the 1970's and prior, that may contain Lead or other metal substances, PeelAway 7 Paint Remover is better on modern paint formulation from the mid 1970's onwards.

When removing paint from exterior walls we strongly recommend doing a test area before starting any project, to test product suitability and effectiveness.

This depends on if it is an interior or exterior wall. For masonry and brick walls we recommend Sandtex exterior masonry paints. For interior walls we have a range of Interior wall and ceiling paints.

For gaps between interior walls, window and door frames we recommend Osmo Interior Gap Sealer or Bona Gap Master. These highly versatile gap fillers can be used on stone, concrete and brick walls to seal gaps between walls and fixtures.

To remove green growth from concrete, stone and brick walls we recommend Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner. For heavily soiled walls a second application may be required. We recommend that before treating, clean the wall with a scraper, stiff broom or brush to remove as much surface matter as possible prior to treating.

Earthborn Clay Paint is made from purely natural ingredients and is perfect for use on interior walls and ceilings. It is wipable and available in a wide range of attractive colours. It dries to a luxurious ultra-matt finish, can benefit allergy and asthma sufferers, is odourless and virtually V.O.C free.

Filling the gaps between skirting boards and floor boards can be done using Bona Gap Master or Osmo Interior Gap Sealer. Both of these wood fillers are flexible and can be sanded smooth once fully dry, making them a better option than mastic based bathroom and kitchen sealers. These products are also available in a range of colours to better blend in with walls and flooring.

Picking the best paint for skirting boards is dependent on the type of finish required. For example, some prefer a classic high gloss white whilst others may prefer an eggshell finish. Skirting boards can also be painted in different colours and for some, using a low VOC eco-friendly paint is what they require. See our full range of skirting board paint products to find the one for your project.

Wooden skirting boards have traditionally been sealed with a wood paint or wood varnish such as Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish to protect against knocks, scuffs, dust and dirt. An alternative to using a wood paint or varnish is to use a wood oil. Wood oils provide excellent protection whilst enhancing the natural wood grain and character of the wood. Wood oils such as Osmo Polyx Oil are quick and easy to apply and are very easy to patch repair if an area of skirtingboard becomes worn, scuffed or lightly scratched.

When using a clear varnish or wood oil they tend to darken the wood slightly giving it a 'damp-like' appearance. They also draw out the natural character and colouration of the timber. In the case of pine, this can often lead to a yellowy, orangey or warm brown coloration. Using a clear wax such as Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish in light / clear offers a solution but only limited protection against scuffs and knocks. The benefit of using a wax is that any lightly damaged or worn areas can be easily restored by simply applying more clear wax to the affected area.

An alternative would be to use Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural. These wood oils are extremely durable and offer excellent protection against knocks, scuffs dust and dirt. They are specifically formulated to better retain the natural, untreated appearance of the wood and are easy to clean and maintain.

New, bare wood skirting boards, or boards that have recently been stripped back to bare wood, can be easily stained using a wood stain or a coloured varnish. Use a water-based stain such as Manns Classic Pine Stain for softwood skirting boards such as pine or Manns Classic Oak Stain for hardwood skirting boards such as oak. Alternatively, use a solvent-based stain such as Manns Trade Light Fast Wood Stain or Morrells Light Fast Wood Stain if preferred. Stain the boards first then seal in the colour with a clear wood oil or an varnish which tend to 'brighten' the look of the stain. Alternatively, use a coloured wood oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints.

Barrettine Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover has been a popular choice with our customers and is effective at removing a wide range of interior paints and varnishes from skirting boards and other interior wood.

An alternative product is PeelAway. Peelaway is a poultice or paste based paint stripper and varnish remover that is effective at removing many layers of paint or varnish, in one treatment. We recommend trying the PeelAway 1 and 7 Sample Twin Pack first to establish which product works best on the paint or varnish to be removed.

The best way to stop any wood from being bleached by the sun and going grey is to treat it with a product with dedicated UV inhibitors which absorb the harmful rays before it reaches the wood. One such product is Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. This is available in a clear and a selection of attractive wood colours. They have been designed to act like sun-tan lotion for the wood. Although these products greatly slow the greying process, they will not stop it completely. They require regular maintenance and re-application every 18-24 months to get the best out of the product and to keep the grey away!

Interior handrails can be treated in a number of ways. If you're trying to match the colour to the floor or stair treads, staining the wood with a wood stain is usually the best course of action and then sealing with a wood wax, wood oil or varnish, if necessary.

Exterior handrails are a similar story, using an exterior coloured woodstain such as Sadolin Classic Wood Protection or Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain will not only colour the wood to match or contrast any surround wood but will offer protection from the elements and the inevitable finger marks.

Wood oils are just one way of effectively treating Oak hand rails. Whether it's a natural oil such as Tung Oil, Teak oil or Linseed oil, or a blended oil such as Danish oil. A more modern alternative that is quicker drying, requires fewer coats, is durable yet easy to maintain are the range of hard wax oils.

If the paint on your hand rails is tired or loose and flaky, you might want to consider stripping them and refinishing with another paint to match the previous finish. The best place to start is with a traditional paint stripper like Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover or other paint stripper or remover. These are a viscous liquid, with a custard-like consistency and can be applied directly to the wood and left for a short amount of time, before being scraped off with a flat knife into a suitable container. This can be repeated as many times as necessary. Once all excess product is removed, a light sanding to smooth out all of the edges and remove the last small areas of old product and you are ready to go!

Another type of paint remover is PeelAway. It is poultice-like in consistency, so ideal for areas where drips might cause issues with surrounding areas. This product is available in two different formulas, PeelAway 7 for modern or water-based paints and PeelAway 1 for pre-1970's lead based paint. There may be occasions where modern, water-based paints have coated pre-1970's paints, so test areas are vitally important and the PeelAway 1 and 7 Sample Pack is a must try!

Colour matching wood is one of the most difficult tasks. It may look the same, but different species of wood can have vastly different reactions to a wood stain, even in the same piece of wood. This is where test areas come into play. Wood stains such as Manns Classic Pine Stain have small tester pots available, helping you to do a suitable test area to help achieve the perfect match.

There are many ways to treat oak beams and still retain their character, depending on the desired look. For best results and maximum compatibility, make sure all previous coatings are removed with a suitable wood stripper / remover. If a colour change is required, a wood stain such as Manns Classic Oak Stain can be used, or alternatively any other suitable product from our wood stain range. The beams should then be sealed with a wood wax, oil or varnish, depending on the desired result.

Any of our range of woodworm treatments can be considered an effective treatment, from cost effective treatment for larger areas to treatment with a fine tipped nozzle or spray for smaller areas.

It is recommended that once the woodworm treatment is dry, affected areas should be treated with a suitable wood preserver, both interior and exterior projects alike. This now protected area can then be finished with your chosen wood oil, paint, woodstain or varnish or lacquer.

It is always recommended to preserve exterior wood. This will protect it from wood boring insects, rot, mould and fungi. Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver does all of this and is available in a range of wood colours and a clear option for an all-in-one solution that contains wax so will not require a top coat.

Alternatively, Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver is also available but does not contain any wax. This, as it's name suggests, is compatible with nearly any suitable top coating of wood paint, wood stain, or exterior wood varnish for the perfect look.

For a traditional black look on new exterior beams, consider Ronseal Total Wood Preservative which will both colour the wood black and protect the beams from mould, algae and insect attack.

To keep wood nourished and protected, it is recommended to use an oil. There are many types of oils and they all have different looks. Traditional oils like Linseed oil, available as both boiled linseed oil, for a quicker drying finish with an attractive ruby tint and raw linseed oil for the most natural, nourishing finish you can can put on wood. Morrells Tung Oil is another traditional oil, derived from nuts from the Tung tree, giving a luxurious, matt finish.

Rustins Danish Oil is blended from natural oils and polymers. It dries to a satin finish giving wood a warm tint after several coats.

Absolutely. It is recommended that it is first treated with a wood preservative that does not contain wax, such as Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver and then treated with a suitable exterior wood paint.

Wearing gloves and a mask, decant a woodworm treatment into a suitable container. Lift the floorboards and treat the joists and headers, treat the underneath, top, sides and ends of the floorboards.

Woodworm infestation in furniture can be recognised by small round holes on the surface of the timber and the gritty bore-dust that is left behind. These holes are most likely to be found near joints or on the undersides or backs of furniture. If the furniture has a surface coating such as paint or varnish, the thorough advice is to completely strip the furniture by sanding or stripping then treating with a woodworm killer such as Barrettine Premier Woodworm Killer Spray or Cuprinol Woodworm Killer (WB). However, some customers just treat the affected area and re-coat or paint.

Any previous finish such as varnish, stain or paint should be completely removed prior to treating with a woodworm treatment. Once the woodworm treatment has been applied to all areas and allowed to dry, the wood can be re-coated or painted. Some people manage by only removing the paint from the affected area then treating. The potential problem with this is that the woodworm may have penetrated further than the area treated, and the re-finished area may not totally blend in with the old finish.

Yes you can. Worktop oils such as Manns Premier Top Oil and Osmo Top Oil offer excellent durability and protection again liquid spillages, scuffs, knocks and stains. They are very easy to apply, clean and maintain making them ideal for real wood table tops.

Active insect attack can be recognised by small round holes on the surface of the timber and small piles of dust.

In some cases, manufacturer's simply call their products different things, either woodworm killer or woodworm treatment. This said, some products are more specific to killing off existing infestations whilst others are geared towards preventing future attack.

If unsure as to whether you have an active infestation or just old woodworm damage, our advice would be to use a woodworm killer first, then a wood preservative after. This will kill off any existing infestations and will also help to protect the wood against future attack. most wood preservatives also protect against mould and algae.

Traditionally, Oak beams were painted black in the 19th century with a primitive paint with ingredients which included coal and tar deposits, giving them a black colour. This can be reproduced using modern, water based paints including this range of Dulux Trade paints, which include gloss, satin and more contemporary matt finishes.

You can also achieve this look in a number of other ways. With a wood stain / dye such as Manns Classic Wood Dye in black and then overcoating with a hard wax oil. Some hard wax oils do contain a colour, such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints. "Onyx" is a dark, black colour and would be the perfect top coat for your black stained beams to give them a natural-looking finish.

Yes. It's always a good idea to treat all wood, especially in high moisture environments like kitchens and bathrooms. Moisture can get into the grain of the wood, make it swell or contract and at the very worst cause fungal episodes such as mould. Even central heating can make wood dry out which leads to cracking and warping. Application of an oil or wax every 2-3 years can maintain a seal and keep your wood looking it's best.

Woodworm won't 'enjoy' being covered in Teak Oil per se but no, Teak oil will not kill woodworm. If you have active woodworm or wood boring insects a woodworm killer such as Barrettine Premier Woodworm Killer or Ronseal Woodworm Killer must be used to eradicate the infestation. Once treated, a suitable wood preservative should be used to help prevent future infestations.

The most common insecticide used to control woodworm is Permethrin though growth inhibitors are used by some manufacturers. Permethrin is found in most woodworm killers.

Typically starting between May & September which is the adult emergence season for Woodworm. The woodworm should be treated as soon as possible to avoid the beetle laying larvae and the lifecycle recurring.

There are several types of woodworm in the UK. All species will be killed with any of the woodworm treatments from our range.

Generally speaking, woodworm do prefer damp wood. A Woodworm treatment should be used to eradicate any existing infestations then a wood preservative to protect against re-infestation, ensuring effective protection for years to come.

Mould needs to be treated separately with a dedicated mould and mildew cleaner. Once all traces of mould have been removed, and the wood has been allowed to dry, a wood oil, varnish, paint or other type of wood finish can be applied to protect the wood and complete the project.

There are many woodworm treatments on the market from different brands. Some are suitable for both interior and exterior use whilst other are formulated for just interior use so take care to select the appropriate one. Most wooden surfaces such as floors, doors, furniture and wooden beams are over-coated once treated with a wood oil, wax, paint or varnish to ensure there is no direct contact with the wood. However, wooden surfaces treated with a woodworm killer are safe for pets and children once the treatment has fully dried.

In terms of smell, this is largely down to if the woodworm treatment is solvent-based or water-based. Solvent based products usually have a high VOC so therefore have a much stronger smell than the water-based equivalents.

Woodworm killers are specifically formulated to kill woodworm, wood boring insects, their larvae and eggs. As long as the woodworm killer is used following the manufacturer’s instructions, the manufacturer’s guarantee that their product will work. Basically, if the larvae are covered then they will die. It's important to treat all areas.

As a preventative treatment, look for a wood preservative that specifically states that it prevents woodworm (some don't). For interior timbers we recommend Cuprinol 5 Star Complete Wood Treatment (WB) which is a low odour water-based formulation. For exterior timbers, we recommend Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative.

To eradicate existing woodworm infestations, we recommend Cuprinol Woodworm Killer (WB) for interior timbers and Barrettine Premier Woodworm Killer for exterior timbers.

This depends on the type of wooden beams you have. If they are very old, uneven rustic beams, sanding may be difficult. If they are more modern, reproduction beams that have a smooth surface then it is always a good idea to sand structurally sound wood before applying any product. This removes any traces of previous product or contaminates, smooths out any defects and re-opens pores on the wood surface so it's ready to accept the wood stain or oil.

For previously oiled or bare wood beams, this can depend on how dry the timber is. Any type of wood oil should be applied thinly and evenly then allowed to dry in accordance with the drying time on the tin or container. Most types of oil require just 2 or 3 thin coats but if the beams still feel dry, additional thin coats can be applied.

If the oil finish becomes tacky or sticky, this is an indication that too much oil has been applied. In this instance, the over applied excess oil can be removed with a lint-free or microfibre cloth dampened with white spirit.

This entirely depends on their current state. If they are painted you then have two options: strip them using a dedicated paint stripper / remover and then use a beeswax polish to show off their natural beauty or repaint them to rejuvenate the finish. If re-painting, it should be noted that you should only paint over sound coatings and not paint that is flaking or peeling.

Bare wood can be treated with a beeswax polish or a nourishing wood oil.

Knowing which is the best radiator paint depends on the type of finish required. For a gloss finish, consider Dulux Trade Quick Dry Gloss or Dulux Trade High Gloss. For an eggshell finish, consider Dulux Trade Eggshell or for a flatter, more matt-like finish consider Dulux Trade Satinwood or Dulux Trade Quick Dry Satinwood.

Ronseal also produce a specific radiator paint, Ronseal Stays White Radiator Paint or in a handy aerosol can for ease of application: Ronseal Quick Drying Radiator Paint.

Alternatively, Crown Paints. For a gloss finish, consider Crown Quick Dry Gloss. For a satin finish, try Crown Non Drip Satin or Crown Solo One Coat Satin.

The period between painting a radiator and switching them back on will probably depend on the type of paint used, the natural temperature and humidity of the room and on the number of coats applied. Typically speaking, paint manufacturer's usually say 24 to 48 hours after the final coat but always check the drying instructions on the back of the tin before switching radiators back on.

Switching radiators on before the paint has dried may result in the finish remaining tacky for longer. In the worst cases it may ruin the final finish.

When removing paint from radiators, it's important to cover and protect all surrounding areas, especially if the radiator is being stripped in situ rather than being removed.

2 paint strippers that our customers have used to good effect are Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover and PeelAway 7 Paint Remover. The first is a traditional gel paint stripper whilst PeelAway is a poultice or paste system.

Due to the differences in paint formulations, we always recommend doing a small test area first to establish the effectiveness of a product. Peelaway comes in a handy PeelAway 1 and 7 Sample Twin Pack whilst Barrettine Paint Panther is available in a small 250ml tin that is ideal for testing.

Many of the large paint manufacturers such as Dulux Trade and Crown Paints produce both water-based and solvent-based paints that are suitable for use on radiators. Modern formulations are as good as each other.

The main differences are usually to do with ease of application, odour of the product and the desired finish. Some paints are formulated to require several coats whilst others just need one. All the different formulations however have been tested to ensure that they give a long lasting, durable finish to radiators.

When applying paint to a radiator, it's important to wash any brushes thoroughly before painting. This is also true for new brushes and rollers straight out of the pack as they often have some lose bristles or fluff from the manufacturing process. Washing them thoroughly first will dislodge and remove any lose bristles and roller fibres so they don't land up in the painted radiator finish.

As a general rule, we recommend using a natural bristle brush with solvent-based paints and synthetic bristle brushes such as the ProDec Premier Synthetic Brush with water-based paints. In terms of rollers we recommend using a microfibre roller such as the Marshall Microfibre Roller or Osmo Premium Microfibre Rollers.

You may be able to find out from the supplier if the wood is already treated and it will certainly help to know as it can impact on what can be advised.

If you are not able to find this out however, then there are a couple of tests that may help determine if there is any current finish. So an oil test, somewhere inconspicuous, leave a small drop of oil on the surface of the wood and leave for 30 minutes to an hour and see how it reacts.

If the oil remains totally unmoved then you are likely to have a varnished finish. If the oil soaks in or moves then this will indicate that either there is oil currently on the floor or if it soaks in totally, that there is nothing on there at all. This is not an exact science but may give some indication of the current finish.

To test for a wax finish simply scratch a nail over the surface and see if any comes away or it marks easily.

When seeking a specific wood stain or dye colour, it's always better to search through colour swatches for a colour match rather than by a colour name. It's common for paints, stains and other coloured products to be given a name by the manufacturer which is their interpretation of the colour. The best way to show this is to do a Google image search for 'Medium Oak Wood' and see the multitude of colours all labelled as medium Oak.

Wood preservatives help to protect wood from mould, algae and insect attack but usually only offer limited weather protection. This means that it will need to be re-applied every year or two depending on the product used.

Our recommendation would be to first treat the shed with Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner to ensure that any mould spores in the surface of the wood have been dealt with, then treat with a shed preservative of your choice.

To extend the life of the preservative and offer the structure better weather protection, we recommend the use of an exterior wood oil to seal in the preserver. The oil top-coat can then be replenished as and when required, usually every year or 2 depending on the amount of weathering that the shed is exposed to.

In short, the answer is no. for the wood oil or worktop oil to penetrate and cure in the surface of the wood, the work top needs to have been dry for at least 3 or 4 days. Chances are that if the wood has been wet for an extended period, it may have or will develop black mould and algae stains. Once the worktop has fully dried, we recommend treating the wood thoroughly with a mould and mildew cleaner and then allowing it to dry again. The surface of the wood may require a light sanding if it no longer feels smooth to the touch. Once the work top has been dried, treated for mould and algae and sanded, it can then be oiled with a worktop oil to prevent future water ingress. It's worth remembering that areas such as around the taps where water often collects should be wiped dry where possible and re-oiled as and when required to retain the woods water-repellent properties.

For kitchen worktops, we tend to recommend using a wood oil or specifically a wooden worktop oil. Wood oils are durable, liquid and stain resistant, easy to maintain, patch repair and to keep looking like new. Osmo Top Oil is perfect for bamboo but needs to be applied very thinly as the grain will be tighter than softer wood work tops made from Oak, Beech and Ash.

Metal tins and cans can stain oiled finishes if the bottom of the tin has been or is sitting in water. The oxidisation of the metal can stain the finish or the wood if left long enough. The benefit of an oiled finish is that they are very easy to repair and when done will blend in with the surrounding area with no sign of a repair being done. Depending on how bad the stain is, it may be possible to remove it by lightly sanding with an abrasive pad such as a Woodleys Finishing Pad and then re-oiling the affected area. If the stain runs deeper into the actual wood, sand the area with a p120 grit sandpaper sheet until the stain has been sanded out and then re-oil the affected area.

Metal tins and cans can stain oiled finishes if the bottom of the tin has been or is sitting in water. The oxidisation of the metal can stain the finish or the wood if left long enough. The benefit of an oiled finish is that they are very easy to repair and when done will blend in with the surrounding area with no sign of a repair being done. Depending on how bad the stain is, it may be possible to remove it by lightly sanding with an abrasive pad such as a Woodleys Finishing Pad and then re-oiling the affected area. If the stain runs deeper into the actual wood, sand the area with a p120 grit sandpaper sheet until the stain has been sanded out and then re-oil the affected area.

The colour of Meranti can vary from pale-red to a darker reddish brown. Applying a clear oil will enhance the natural colour and character of the wood but will also darken it giving it almost damp-like appearance. A way to test how the doors may look with an oil or varnish is to dampen a section with a clean sponge dampened with water. If this colour is desirable, Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin (1101) is perfect for protecting hardwoods, such as Meranti as it is thinner and can penetrate deeply into the tighter grain, whilst still giving a high level of protection from dirt, scuffs and abrasions.

Oils such as Osmo Door Oil Raw 3033 and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are perfect for lighter species of hardwoods such as Oak and will keep the wood looking as natural as possible, whilst still offering protection from moisture, fingerprints and knocks.

It is very important to do a test area when considering these products and especially so with darker shades of Meranti, Walnut and other hardwoods as these oils will often leave a slightly milky looking finish.

Applying a clear oil or varnish will likely darken the wood and enhance the natural grain and character of the timber. This can be tested by wiping over a section of the freshly stripped doors with a clean sponge dampened with water. How the wood looks when damp is a good indication of how they will look with a clear oil or varnish.

To retain the natural untreated look of the wood, either a clear wax or specialist wood oil will work. Wood waxes are easy to apply, maintain and repair but offer little resistance to liquid stains, scuffs and scratches. Oils such as Osmo Door Oil Raw (3033) and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are again easy to apply, maintain and repair but offer much better protection whilst better retaining the natural, untreated appearance of the wood.

Doors can be varnished at any time prior to hanging if they have been given enough time to fully dry as per the manufacturers specified drying time on the packaging. It's worth mentioning that although most varnishes only require a matter of hours to dry, the full curing or hardening time can in fact be days, sometimes as much as 5 to 7 days to achieve full hardness. If doors can be varnished and allowed to dry for longer then there is potentially less risk of them being scratched or damaged during hanging.

Colour matching different types of wood can be difficult especially if looking to achieve an exact match. This said, a close match can usually be achieved by using a wood stain. The important factor is to go by the colour of the product rather than by the colour name. For example, a medium oak stain from one manufacturer is likely to be different from a medium oak stain from any other. Another important factor to take into consideration is how the natural colouration of the timber influences any stain that is applied. For example, the same colour stain applied to pine, oak and beech will produce 3 different colours. The only way to work around this is to experiment with various stains and test areas on the wood to be stained. Most spirit and water-based stains such as Manns Classic Oak Stains for hardwoods, Manns Classic Pine Stain for softwoods can be thinned with water and intermixed to achieve virtually any colour or shade. See our full range of interior and exterior wood stains here.

Knowing how to repair surface scratches and gouges on a table top depends on how bad they are and the type of finish on the table i.e. an oil, wax, varnish or paint. If the table top is painted, the best approach is to sand the table top back to bare wood, fill any gouges and deep scratches with a suitable wood filler, re sand the repaired areas for a smooth surface, then re-paint.

For varnished and waxed furniture a range of repair crayons, pens and wax filler sticks can be used to repair or lessen the impact of scratches and gouges. If the damage is particularly bad, the only option may be to sand the table top back to bare wood and re-finish with a clear or coloured interior varnish that is suitable and durable enough for table tops.

Table tops that have been oiled or waxed are by far the easiest to repair. In most cases the table top simply needs a light sanding then re-oiling or waxing to restore the finish once any deeper gouges have been filled. Take care to remove all traces of sanding dust prior to oiling or waxing to prevent dust getting stuck in the finish. To strip a build-up of old wax coatings, a wax and polish remover is more effective than sanding alone.

Most waxes are compatible with each other so if you want to change the appearance of a piece of furniture or other wooden surface, applying a darker wax over a clear wax or lighter coloured wax shouldn't be a problem. If applying a dark wax over a lighter colour, it's worth remembering that the lighter colour may still have an influence on the end colour. For this reason we always recommend doing a test area before starting any project. If the old wax needs to be removed, we recommend using a wax and polish remover to remove the old wax.

The amount of product required to treat a door can vary on the type of product being used. All of our product pages have a coverage calculater which gives an estimation of how much product is required based on a given area. This calculation is only an estimate as the actual amount depends on the type and condition of the wood.

In terms of doors, we usually say to allow 3.5 square meters per door which allows for the treatment of both sides. As an example, 5 interior doors would require enough product to cover approximately 17.5 square meters (3.5 x 5).

There are 2 wood oils that come to mind which would be perfect for this project. Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are both Hardwax Oils which offer excellent durability, are scratch, scuff and liquid resistant, are easy to apply, maintain and patch repair if required. These 2 particular products have been specially formulated to better retain the natural, untreated look of the wood whereas a clear wood oil or varnish would darken the wood and enhance the natural character and colouration of the timber.

When removing old coats of wax or polish with a wax and polish remover, or by sanding, we recommend that surfaces are wiped over with a damp cloth when finished. Where the water soaks in to and darkens the wood, it's fairly safe to assume that the wax and polish has been adequately removed. If there are areas where the water does not penetrate and beads on the surface, then further stripping is required. Repeat this process untill all traces of wax and polish have been removed. This process is less important if a fresh coat of wax, polish or an oil based product is being appllied to finish the wood. It is however critical if a water-based product such as a paint or varnish is being applied. Any wax or polish that remains in the wood is likely to affect the adhesion and life of any water-based top-coat.

Determining if a varnished floor can be repaired can depend on the type of varnish and the extent of the damage. Minor surface scratches and scuffs might be repairable or made less noticeable by cleaning the floor first and using a polyurethane maintenance product such as Bona Freshen Up or Bona Polish. These products in-fill minor scuffs and scratches and apply a thin maintenance goat of polyurethan varnish over the surface. These products maynot however be compatible with all types of varnish so a test area is strongly recommended to test adhesion and effectivness.

If the damage is more extensive, a skilled, professional floor finisher may be able to repair or lessen the impact of the damage. The safest way to deal with a damaged, varnish floor is to sand it back to bare wood and use a highly durable or commercial grade floor varnish.

If the worktop is bare wood, little preparation is required. It can be wiped down with methylated spirit to clean and degrease the surface if required. This will clean and remove any surface dirt or grease that has marked the surface during installation.

Many new wooden worktops are supplied having already been given a thin maintenance coat of oil to protect the surface. Always read the manufacturer’s instructions before treating but most are ready for oiling with a dedicated work top oil.

The dark area where the rug has been is likely due to the floor being protected from sunlight resulting in less bleaching of the wood from the sun's rays. The lighter areas could also be due to the high foot traffic wearing away the original finish of the uncovered flooring area. It's possible that the covered area will always remain darker than the rest unless the whole floor is sanded. If a rug of the same size or bigger is being put back, then this won't be an issue.

Re-oiling the floor should restore the overall appearance and even out many of the colour differences. As the floor is made of Mahogany, our recommendation would be to use Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin (1101). This oil is very thin and will be able to penetrate in to the wood grain whereas other types of wood oil may not be able to penetrate as well.

Apply the oil thinly working it in to the surface of the wood blocks. Where possible, try to avoid too much of the oil running down between the wood blocks as this may affect the glue or bitumen used to stick the parquet down.

Wood oils or more specifically 'hard wax oils' are more durable and water resistant than waxes. Waxes are softer, less durable and are easily stained and marked when in contact with water. It's worth mentioning that although new or freshly sanded pine can look pale in colour, when a clear oil or varnish is applied it tends to draw out the natural orange or yellow of the wood. A way to test this is to wipe over a section of bare wood board with a damp cloth to get an indication of how it will look once finished. To better retain the natural, untreated look of the pine, we recommend using either Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044).

With venerred doors, it's always important to check with the door manufacturer as to which type of product is suitable i.e. a wax, oil or varnish? Some manufacturers may stipulate one type of finish over another and warn that some finishes should not be used. In our experience, we have never had an issue with any product being used on a veneered door, but using one that is not recommended will likely invalidate any warranty on the door.

The best products for retaining the natural, untreated look of the wood are clear waxes or specially formulated hardwax oils. Waxes offer limited protection and are easily scuffed, stained and marked. This said, waxes are easily applied, maintained and repaired if an area does become worn or damaged. An alternative to clear waxes are hard wax oils, specifically Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural and Osmo Door Oil Raw (3033). These products are designed to better retain the natural, untreated look of the wood whilst providing excellent durability and protection against stains, scuffs, scratches, liquid spillages and more. They are also easy to apply, maintain and patch repair if required.

It's common for door manufacturers or suppliers to only recommend their own door finishing products such as an own brand varnish, oil or wax. In reality, these are just white label products that they brand as their own meaning that other similar products will be fine which in this case, would be other water-based varnishes.

It's also common for many door manufacturers to recommend that you don't use certain types of products such as wood oils or waxes. In our experience we have never encountered an issue with anyone using these products on Oak veneered doors. Using non recommended products however will likely invalidate any warranty on the door so it's always worth double checking with the door manufacturer or supplier before treating doors with alternative products.

When staining wood, we recommend that the wood stain is applied directly to new bare wood or freshly sanded wood. Applying a sanding sealer would prevent the stain from penetrating in to the wood grain.

This can be tricky on appearance alone as varnishes used to traditionally be high-gloss whereas now, varnishes are available in satin, matt and ultra matt making them look more like an oil or wax finish. This said, and although not an exact science, there are ways to establish what type of finish a floor has.

Always carry out these tests in an inconspicuous area such as behind a door or on the floor under a piece of furniture, as there is potential for the testing to leave a small mark or stain.

Scrape test

Using the edge of a coin or finger nail gently scrape the surface of the floor. If the floor has a wax or polish finish the scraping will remove some of the wax or polish and it will be visible on the coin or nail.

Oil test

Apply a small drop of cooking oil such as Olive Oil to the floor and leave for 30 mins to an hour. If the oil partially or fully soaks in to the floor then this is an indication that the floor has been oiled. If the oil droplet remains on the surface, then it is likely to be a varnished floor.

Danish Oil is perfectly fine for kitchen worktops and has always been one of the more traditional oils used. Wood oil technology has moved on over the years with new types of oils that are much more durable, longer lasting and only require 2 coats, as apposed to Danish Oil, Teak Oil or Tung Oil, that require more coats and more frequent re-application to maintain the finish.

Our recommendation would be to look at the range of 'Worktop Oils'. They are extremely tough, durable, stain, scratch and water resistant. They are very easy to apply, maintain and patch repair if a particular area becomes worn or damaged.

An alternative to 'worktop oils' are the range of Hardwax Oils. Hardwax oils are as durable and long lasting as top oils, are available in clear and a range of colours, are also food and child safe when dry and equally as easy to apply, maintain and repair if required. If unsure about a particular colour try one or more of the Hardwax Oil samples.

To prepare the wooden worktop it may be necessary to strip the old Danish Oil finish by either lightly sanding the surface or wiping down with a clean, uncoloured cloth dampened with white spirit. Once the worktop has been prepared as above, simply apply 2 thin coats of Top Oil to the surface following the manufacturers preparation and application instructions on the tin. If the worktop is made from a dense exotic hardwood such as Teak, Mahogany, Ipe or Iroko, it may require an extra thin oil like Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin (1101) to achieve maximum penetration.

Bona Quantum is widely considered to be one of the best "all-rounder" adhesives on the market today and is the direct replacement for the Bona R850 Adhesive that has now been discontinued. It has good initial grab and is perfect for engineered and solid wood planks and parquet. It causes practically no swelling of the wood as it's water and solvent free.

Osmo MS Advance Wood Floor Adhesive is another similar adhesive also formulated for the installation of interior wood block parquet, engineered wood plank and pre-finished and unfinished solid wood flooring. It has a moisture inhibitor and some sound reducing properties.

Bona Titan is one of the strongest wood flooring adhesives currently on the market. With very high bonding strength and high initial grab, it's suitable for all physically sound subfloors, for installing end grain flooring and very wide, over-sized solid boards.

In short, yes. But you can also use Bona Vertical which comes in a smaller size, 310ml mastic tube for easier application in a mastic gun for minimal wastage.

Bona R410 DPM is a a highly effective moisture barrier on cementitious sub-floors, even where the relative humidity is as high as 90 - 100%. This can block the moisture and form a good base to applying your flooring adhesive to before laying your wooden flooring. It's also an effective primer for weaker sub-floors too.

Danish oils have always been one of the more traditional oils used for kitchen worktops. This said, Danish Oils do require regular maintenance with additional coats and depending on the brand, can add a warm or slightly orange hue to the wood.

The modern alternative to Danish Oils are Hard Wax Oils. These modern oils are made from a blend of oils, waxes and resins that require just 2 coats on new, bare wood. They are highly durable, resistant to scuffs, scratches, water and other liquid spillages. They require little maintenance and when maintenance is required, simply require one thin maintenance coat.

This is a difficult question to answer without further information. Are they softwood or hardwood reproduction railway sleepers or genuine reclaimed sleepers? How bad is the wood rot?

If the wood has started to rot there's probably little that can be done to stop this. You may be able to slow down the inevitable and improve the appearance of the wood by removing as much of the rotted wood as possible, then applying a wood hardener like Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener to the affected areas. Repair any holes, gaps or uneven surfaces with a suitable exterior wood filler and treat all sound, good wood with an exterior wood preservative. To preserve the sleepers further, we would recommend treating them with an exterior wood oil or decking oil, ideally twice a year in Spring and Autumn. This will help to repel water and prevent water ingress, the main cause of wood rot.

Unfortunately, if the sleepers are being used to retain soil and the soil is in contact with the wood, there's probably not much that can be done to protect the soil facing surface.

The black spotting is likely mould spores in the timber that have started to react with moisture and the tannin in the Oak. Before refinishing the door it's important to treat and kill any mould spores with a mould and mildew remover such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner. This will clean the black spotting from the wood and kill the spores within the fibres of the wood. Once this has been done, we recommend that the door is treated with a wood preservative such as Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver. When this has fully dried, usually 48 hours, the door can be treated with a suitable exterior wood finish.

If the door is to be oiled, we recommend using Osmo WR Base Coat (4001), an excellent water repellent base-coat followed by 2 thin coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra, a clear exterior wood oil that contains biocides to protect against mould, algae and fungal attack. It also contains UV filters to protect the wood from the Suns UV rays.

If the door is to be painted or varnished, this can be done once the wood preservative has fully dried.

Using a wood oil will retain the appearance of the Oak, is easy to apply and maintain and will never crack, peel or flake off.

This depends on the type of black finish required. There are a number of ways to achieve a black table top finish but all will give a different depth of colour or sheen so doing test areas is the key to achieving the desired finish. For a semi translucent black where the grain of the wood is still partially visible, consider trying Osmo Polyx Oil Tints in black or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints in Onyx. For a deeper, darker black, the table top can first be stained with a black wood stain such as Manns Classic Pine Stain for softwood tables and Manns Classic Oak Stain for hardwood tables. Once stained, the table top must be denibbed or lightly sanded to remove any powdery residue left over from the staining process. It should then be wiped over with a dry cloth or vacuumed to remove all traces of sanding dust. Do not wipe down with a damp cloth as this will remove some of the stain.

Once dry, the stain can be over-coated with 2 thin coats of one of the black tinted wood oils mentioned above. The benefit of using wood oils is that whilst they are tough and durable, they are also easy to apply, maintain and if required repair should the finish get scuffed, scratched or marked in some other way.

Alternatively, stained or dyed table tops can be over-coated with a durable varnish such as Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish or Polyvine Heavy Duty Interior Wood Varnish. Varnishes are available in a range of sheen levels and offer the best all-round protection.

Another approach for a totally opaque finish is to use a black paint or varnish such as Manns Classic Interior Paint.

It is common for Black and White wood finishes to produce a wide variety of effects so it is highly recommended to always carry out a series of test areas before starting any project.

In short, no. Varnish is a coating type product that coats the wood with a plastic shell or skin. Wood oils work by penetrating into the wood but can't with a varnish covering the wood grain. All varnish coatings need to be fully removed by sanding before an oil can be applied.

Now you've gotten the colour just perfect to match the stairs, now it's time to protect it.

Wood oils are a fantastic option for the natural feel to the wood. They penetrate into the surface to protect against contact, scuffs, stains and minor scratches. Wood oils are very easy to maintain and repair and offer excellent coverage.

Another option is a wood varnish, the most durable type of wood finish. Varnishes effectively coat the wood with a tough, durable plastic coating. Highly recommended for banisters and balustrades which are subject to a high degree of contact.

If there is space to treat or paint doors prior to hanging then it can be beneficial to do so. Having doors laying flat on some sort of work benches or platform means that there's no stretching or bending to reach all areas. The top, bottom and side edges can also be treated or painted for a more complete finish. Being laid flat means that finishes such as paints and varnishes are less likely to run and will level to give a nice even finish.

One potential downside of treating doors prior to hanging, especially if painted or varnished is that there is the risk of scuffs, scratches or chips in the finish when manoeuvring or fitting the doors if adequate care and precautions aren't taken.

Another consideration is where are the doors being finished? Being treated in a garden shed or garage may not be the best option as dust may stick to the finish. If the environment is damp or temperatures drop overnight, this can effect drying times and the finish.

Due to the success of last year's Osmo oil promotion, we have again secured a stock of Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra (420) Clear 3L tins. This means 3L of oil for the price of 2.5L, an extra 20% or half a litre for free. That's enough to treat up to an additional 10 square meters of wood depending on the wood type, condition and porosity of the wood grain.

This offer is only valid whilst stocks last and if last year was anything to go by you'll need to be quick. Once its gone its gone!

This really depends on what you're going to be finishing it with. If you're going to be using a wood paint or a wood oil, you're better off using Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver or Sadolin Quick Drying Wood Preserver which are compatible with most types of top coats.

If you want an all-in-one product which colours, seals and protects, then products such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver, Ronseal Total Wood Preservative or Cuprinol Ultimate Garden Wood Preserver will do all of the above. Alternatively, see our wood preservative treatments page for more information.

This really depends on what you're going to be finishing it with. If you're going to be using a wood paint or a wood oil, you're better off using Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver or Sadolin Quick Drying Wood Preserver which are compatible with most types of top coats.

If you want an all-in-one product which colours, seals and protects, then products such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver, Ronseal Total Wood Preservative or Cuprinol Ultimate Garden Wood Preserver will do all of the above. Alternatively, see our wood preservative treatments page for more information.

With freshly sanded, solid doors, you can have a choice of any of the internal finishes we offer: wood wax, wood oil or solvent-based wood varnish/lacquer. All three will do the job but will look and feel very different:

• Varnish/Lacquer sits on the top of the wood and forms a highly durable, protective layer over the wood
• Oil will penetrate into the surface. It won't be as durable as the varnish/lacquer but will be far easier to repair and maintain if and when necessary
• Wood waxes are almost like shoe polish for the wood. They are applied with a soft cloth and buffed once dry. Not the most durable but is the easiest to repair. Wood waxes however are easily marked and stained by water splashes so are not recommended if the door is located near the bath or shower

With veneered or laminated doors, it's always best to double check with what the manufacturers recommend first before choosing your wood finish. This means you won't void any warranty offered or get any nasty surprises.

Polyvine Decorators Varnish is an exterior-grade clear, water-based acrylic varnish for use on wood, paintwork, wallpaper, fabric, plaster and much more. It contains UV filters to protect coloured surfaces from fading and biocides that protect against algae, mildew and fungal attack.

Oils would not be suitable as they need to penetrate into the wood and cannot if the paint has formed a coating on the wood. They are also more likely to discolour the finish due to the nature of the ingredients they are made from.

We can never guarantee one manufacturers product over another and a test area is essential to test product suitability and final finish.

Polyvine Decorators Varnish is an exterior-grade clear, water-based acrylic varnish for use on wood, paintwork, wallpaper, fabric, plaster and much more. It contains UV filters to protect coloured surfaces from fading and biocides that protect against algae, mildew and fungal attack.

Oils would not be suitable as they need to penetrate into the wood and cannot if the paint has formed a coating on the wood. They are also more likely to discolour the finish due to the nature of the ingredients they are made from.

We can never guarantee one manufacturers product over another and a test area is essential to test product suitability and final finish.

Polyvine Decorators Varnish is an exterior-grade clear, water-based acrylic varnish for use on wood, paintwork, wallpaper, fabric, plaster and much more. It contains UV filters to protect coloured surfaces from fading and biocides that protect against algae, mildew and fungal attack.

Oils would not be suitable as they need to penetrate into the wood and cannot if the paint has formed a coating on the wood. They are also more likely to discolour the finish due to the nature of the ingredients they are made from.

We can never guarantee one manufacturers product over another and a test area is essential to test product suitability and final finish.

Polyvine Decorators Varnish is an exterior-grade clear, water-based acrylic varnish for use on wood, paintwork, wallpaper, fabric, plaster and much more. It contains UV filters to protect coloured surfaces from fading and biocides that protect against algae, mildew and fungal attack.

Oils would not be suitable as they need to penetrate into the wood and cannot if the paint has formed a coating on the wood. They are also more likely to discolour the finish due to the nature of the ingredients they are made from.

We can never guarantee one manufacturers product over another and a test area is essential to test product suitability and final finish.

Unfortunately this will be quite difficult to remove as the Creocote dries by absorption into the wood, rather than by forming a film, so may transfer for some time.

If the application was recent, it may be possible to remove the worst by wiping down thoroughly with white spirit and plenty of rags. However, the colour will not be removed and there will still be some risk of transference.

However, once the bench has thoroughly dried then it should be possible to seal in the remaining Creocote with a solvent-based product such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver in Clear or Coloured. Barrettine Decking Oil in Clear would also be suitable, but the coloured versions of this would not be.

Unfortunately this will be quite difficult to remove as the Creocote dries by absorption into the wood, rather than by forming a film, so may transfer for some time.

If the application was recent, it may be possible to remove the worst by wiping down thoroughly with white spirit and plenty of rags. However, the colour will not be removed and there will still be some risk of transference.

However, once the bench has thoroughly dried then it should be possible to seal in the remaining Creocote with a solvent-based product such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver in Clear or Coloured. Barrettine Decking Oil in Clear would also be suitable, but the coloured versions of this would not be.

Unfortunately this will be quite difficult to remove as the Creocote dries by absorption into the wood, rather than by forming a film, so may transfer for some time.

If the application was recent, it may be possible to remove the worst by wiping down thoroughly with white spirit and plenty of rags. However, the colour will not be removed and there will still be some risk of transference.

However, once the bench has thoroughly dried then it should be possible to seal in the remaining Creocote with a solvent-based product such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver in Clear or Coloured. Barrettine Decking Oil in Clear would also be suitable, but the coloured versions of this would not be.

Woodleys Sandpaper Sheets are fantastic sandpaper sheets great for almost any woodworking project. For lightly keying between coats, also known as de-nibbing, the finer grit of either P240 or P320 is advised for a fantastic finish. Also available in a larger quantity, as a large roll: Woodleys Sandpaper Roll Aluminium Oxide 115mm x 50m.

Alternatively, Woodleys Flexible Sanding Pads are double sided, abrasive pads with a flexible foam centre. They smooth microscopic "nibs" or "bumps" that can occur in-between varnish coats from settled, trapped dust.

No. A knotting agents job is to make a seal over the knot, blocking naturally-forming resins found in wood from being dissolved by the solvents in paints, which then seep to the surface. This then marks and discoulours the paint finish. Wood oils are not able to penetrate this seal and will not be able to bind to the wood fibres like they are supposed to, so they are not compatible.

Wiping the knot with methylated spirit and allowing it to dry before the application of the wood oil should normally be sufficient. The solvents in the wood oil should prevent the knots from bleeding and ultimately discolouring the final finish.

Most exterior wood preservatives will do the trick with a wide range of clear and colour options to consider. A few popular options are Ronseal Total Wood Preservative and Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver. Both of these products are solvent-based and contain a small amount of wax. If a water-based option is preferred, consider Cuprinol Ultimate Garden Wood Preserver which is a low VOC, water-based formulation.

If painting the frames with a water-based paint or varnish, it's important to use a wax-free preserver, such as Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver before painting for maximum possible compatibility.

Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is the perfect treatment for any interior or exterior mould. It's also available in a handy spray: Barrettine Mould and Mildew Spray.

Once mould has been eradicated, make sure the area is treated with a suitable wood preservative, to make sure the mould doesn't return.

If you don't fancy the shabby chic look you can strengthen a surface coated with clay or chalk paint with a perfectly clear varnish. These are usually water-based and need to be non-yellowing to avoid the discolouration of the paint.

Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is a clear, non-yellowing, polyurethane interior varnish that is suitable for any interior wooden project, including flooring. It is also available in 4 separate sheen levels to add a unique twist to the project if you require. Another great example is Polyvine Decorators Varnish. This ideal for almost any interior project including wood, fabric, wallpaper and much more. Unbeatable protection against finger marks, stains, scuffing and fading.

If you don't fancy the shabby chic look you can strengthen a surface coated with clay or chalk paint with a perfectly clear varnish. These are usually water-based and need to be non-yellowing to avoid the discolouration of the paint.

Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is a clear, non-yellowing, polyurethane interior varnish that is suitable for any interior wooden project, including flooring. It is also available in 4 separate sheen levels to add a unique twist to the project if you require. Another great example is Polyvine Decorators Varnish. This ideal for almost any interior project including wood, fabric, wallpaper and much more. Unbeatable protection against finger marks, stains, scuffing and fading.

This is entirely dependent on the product. Some products have wax in their recipe which hardens after a few days. This is a part of the protection so it can repel rain water and other spillages. If this is the case you might struggle to apply the second coat after a longer period of time after the first coat. Double check with the instructions on the tin to be sure.

This is entirely dependent on the product. Some products have wax in their recipe which hardens after a few days. This is a part of the protection so it can repel rain water and other spillages. If this is the case you might struggle to apply the second coat after a longer period of time after the first coat. Double check with the instructions on the tin to be sure.

Yes. These products are designed to destroy organic life and make sure they don't come back. The surrounding plants and grass will suffer the same fate if they come in contact with these types of products.

To help protect the colour of the timber by slowing down the natural greying process caused by UV exposure, we recommend using Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. this product offers superb durability against weathering including the greying effects of the sun. It also contains biocides to protect the wood against mould, algae and fungal attack.

One thing to bare in mind is that cedar is naturally prone to silvering quickly. Although this is often a reason it is chosen, many customers prefer to retain the natural warm colour of the cedar. Although a clear UV protection Oil will slow down the silvering effects of the sun, it cannot stop it all together and regular maintenance is required to upkeep the level of protection.

An alternative to the clear version of this oil is Osmo UV Protection Oil extra (428) Cedar. The (Cedar) version contains coloured pigments that better protect the natural colour of the wood. It's worth noting that although this product is called 'Cedar' it's likely that it will not specifically match the colour of your Cedar cladding. Both of these products are available in sample sizes. We always recommend doing test areas before starting any project. Apply in an inconspicuous area to assess the final finish.

If required, wipe the cladding with methylated spirits prior to applying the oil to remove any surface dirt or grease from the wood.

If you are referring to the Sikkens Cetol TSI Satin Plus, then this is not one that we would recommend for use on kitchen worktops, it is far more suited to flooring, skirting, doors and architraves.

For worktops, we have a wide range of products that include varnishes such as Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish which offer a long lasting protective seal.

Alternatively, for a finish that is easy to maintain over time, we recommend using a work top oil such as Manns Premier Top Oil or Osmo Top Oil. For additional protection, a coat of Osmo Wood Protector (4006) can be applied as a base-coat prior to applying the top oil but this is not necessary. It is however a good combination, particularly for sink areas that require more protection against moisture.

It is perfectly fine to treat new fence panels that have been tanalised or pressure treated, the finish will not run off.

Matching the colour of old and new fence panels can be difficult and its unlikely that they will look exactly the same. This said however, it may be possible to get them looking similar over time.

It's important to remember that any coloured fence treatment can look 'bright' when first applied but will tone down after several weeks or months of weathering. One possible approach could be to treat the older panels with just one coat of treatment but apply 2 coats to the newer panels. This will give a darker, stronger colour to the new which should tone down to better match the older panels after a couple of weeks or months. After this time you will be able to assess weather to leave as they are, re-coat just the new panels again or re treat the whole fence to achieve a better colour match. The newer panels will naturally start to blend in with the older as more years pass and they are re-treated.

Before starting this project we strongly recommend that test patches are done on the new and old panels to access the success of the above.

It can be really difficult when you inherit/move into a new property and you do not know what the wood is or what the current finish is. This also makes it very difficult for us to advice on a suitable way to move forward with your project. There are some small tests that can help, but ultimately sanding back to bare wood and starting again is the best option and the most likely to get an even well protected finish for your wooden surfaces.

A glossy finish may be an indication of a varnish, however the fact that it marks so easily could also be an indication of a wax or soft oil, so it's really difficult to advice on what to use. Moving forward, worktops and tables need a finish that is durable and that will repel moisture.

If you do decide to sand back to bare wood I can recommend any of the worktop oils we offer. These penetrate the surface and enhance the natural character and feel to the wood, whilst offering a very durable and easy to maintain finish.

Do these holes go right through the wood or only partially through? If they only go partially through then you should be able to fill them with an exterior wood filler. If the hole goes right through the decking board, the best option may be to fill the main bulk of these holes with a piece of wood wedged in then filled as best as possible. Such a large gap or hole that goes all the way through is possibly too big for most fillers to be able to cope with without some sort of mesh of bridge to stop the filler falling through.

So if you are able to get some small pieces to fill these holes as best as possible, and then fill with an exterior filler such as Ronseal Multi Purpose Wood Filler. This filler is durable and has some flexibility, please bare in mind however that decking gets more use and exposure to the elements than any other wood in the garden being horizontal and this can reduce the life of the filler over all, particularly if exposed to standing water. This is a quick fix only option.

For damaged areas of decking it may be better to replace the boards altogether. For further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch to speak with one of our friendly advisers via our contact us page.

I'm afraid that coating or varnish type decking stains such as the Cuprinol one and penetrative decking oils are not compatible with each other. Many decking stains are surface sealers that dry on top of the wood, giving colour and protection. Deckiing oils are penetrating products that are designed to soak into the the surface of the wood to colour and protect the wood from within.

They are both protective treatments in their own right. So you would need to use one or the other. We often recommend an oiled finish for decking over surface sealers as oils are easier to apply, maintain and repair over time. With any and nearly all decking finishes, good maintenance is the only way to upkeep the protection and a top up annually or bi annually will prevent more work in the long run. We have some great blog posts all about how to best look after your decking which can be found at the bottom of this page.

If it has been over 24 hour since the last coat then a light key over the surface to aid grip is advised. Once lightly sanded, hoover and wipe over with a damp cloth to remove sanding dust and then you are able to apply Bona Mega over the top. Always do a test area first to ensure you like the finish before starting the main project.

Wood boring insects tend to be more active during the warmer months of the year and if you have wood that has been or is impacted by woodworm, one of the best way to tell is by leaving a sheet of paper under the effected wood. If the woodworm is active you will find small piles of wood dust on the paper.

Barrettine Woodworm Killer kills all common insects, including Common Furniture Beetle, House Longhorn Beetle, Powder Post Beetle, wood boring Weevils their larvae and eggs.

Because the oil penetrates the surface of the wood rather than dries on the top it will leave a very natural feel to the surface unlike varnish which will cover and dry as a far smother surface finish. It does sound like the oil has raised the grain slightly and we do recommend denibbing the surface between coats to smooth and bring the grain back down, preparing the wood for the second coat.

You can do this with a Woodleys Finishing Pad, sanding in the direction of the grain.

Ultimately using a wood oil will preserve the natural texture of the wood surface.

With veneered or laminated doors, it's always best to double check with what the manufacturer recommends before choosing a wood finish. This is so that any warranty isn't voided by using a product that is not suitable.

Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural is a good option that is designed to leave the wood looking and feeling natural whilst protecting doors from dirt and moisture. Oils are also very easy to apply and maintain. This product however has a high V.O.C content.

If the door manufacturer recommends a varnish instead of an oil, Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is a good option. As the name suggests, it's a very durable, water-based interior varnish that is perfect for interior doors. Unlike the oil, it will likely darken the wood slightly and enhance the natural colour and character of the timber but less than many other clear finishes. Being water-based, this product is classified as 'Low V.O.C'

Having looked at the pictures of the Argos furniture you are trying to match, I would say that it is likely that the furniture already has a finish of some sort on it and it will be difficult to recommend anything without knowing what that treatment is. It may be worth contacting Argos to see if they can find out from the manufacturer what the grey finish is. Sanding your garden furniture back to bare wood would open up you options for achieving the grey, stained look.

On bare wood, consider products such as Holzol Weather Oil and Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain. Both are penetrating oils that gives a translucent finish similar to that of the furniture you are trying to match.

Or if the current finish is an oil then you may be able to apply fresh coats in around a years time when the current one has worn slightly, however the current colour of the wood will also impact on the type of grey you will be able to achieve and this is why test areas are always important.

I hope this helps but if you have any further questions or need further assistance with your project, please do not hesitate in contacting us.

Decking is one of the hardest areas of wood to protect, it is exposed 24 hours a day, 365 days a year and any finish can be expected to last for around a year before requiring a top up, refresher or maintenance coat. Oils are the product that we recommend the most for decking, as it is far easier to maintain and repair over time than a surface sealer such as paint or varnish or coating type decking stain.

Oils penetrate the woods surface and protect from within so will not peel or flake over time. When it comes to maintenance, oiled decking can simply be cleaned and re-oiled once dry, no stripping required.

You could consider Ronseal Ultimate Protection Decking Oil that Ronseal claims lasts twice as long as the standard Ronseal Decking Oil. However the Ultimate Decking Oil is water-based where as the standard Ronseal Decking Oil is solvent-based, making them incompatible with each other. If the original oil is well worn away then you are able to clean the surface with Ronseal Decking Cleaner and Reviver and prepare the deck accordingly for application. It is important to do a test area once the decking has been cleaned and dried to ensure the Ultimate Decking Oil will take okay to the decking and that the desired finish will be achieved.

It depends what type of finish you are looking for. Varnishes are ultimately the most durable finish but if it becomes worn, scratched, chipped or damaged over time, there is little choice but to sand back to bare wood and re-varnish. Varnishes are available in Matt. For a table top, our recommendations would be...

• Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish : A water-based single component varnish
• Fiddes Clear Glaze : A solvent-based, high-build polyurethane varnish
• Polyvine Decorators Varnish : A clear, water-based acrylic varnish

Using a clear varnish will likely enhance the natural grain, colour and character of the timber. A good way to test this is to wipe over the wood with a clean cloth dampened with water. How the wood looks when damp can be an indication of how it may look once varnished. Dampening the table top is also a good way of testing to see if all the Beeswax has been removed. If the water beads on the surface, its a good indication that some of the beeswax is still present. This will need to be completely removed before varnishing using Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover.

• Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural
• Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044)

Sample sachets are available for both of the above products.

Have a look at the products above and if you have any further questions about these products or your project, feel free to contact us so that you can speak with one of our resident experts.

We often recommend a preservative to be applied before a finishing product, particularly with decking as this will give a better level of protection to the wood overall. The Preservative will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot, whilst decking oils that contain UV filters will slow down the natural silvering process caused by the suns UV rays as well as repelling rain, moisture and liquid spillages.

I would expect the products you have chosen to work together without issue, however as with any product, we always recommend doing test areas to access product compatibility and final finish before committing to any project.

Ronseal 10 Year Weatherproof Wood Paint is water-based and therefore cannot be used over an oil based finish, even if it is old and worn as it may not effectively bond to the surface of the oil-based paint. Potential issues include poor adhesion, reduced protection, colour variance and more. The best approach will be to remove the old paint by sanding or with a paint stripper, taking the surface back to clean, bare wood. This will provide the best surface for painting and will ensure any longevity guarantee stipulated by the paint manufacturer i.e. '10 years'.

Once stripped back to bare wood, cleaning the wood by wiping down with Methylated spirit can aid adhesion of any paint or primer used.

Our best recommendation is to apply in a period of time that ensures the weather is dry for the required drying and curing time of application. Of course the British weather is some what unpredictable and should a light show occur it is unlikely to cause too many problems. Some milkiness may occur and this will more often than not disperse on its own with some warm weather.

For application of further coats, should it rain in between coats, you may need to allow the wood to dry for 24 hours before the next coat. Again waiting for a period of dry weather to avoid delay between coats is the best option.

To achieve a natural look and feel whilst protecting the wood, we recommend using Osmo WR Base Coat (4001) to help prevent mould and rot.

Once dry, use Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra which will nourish and protect the wood whilst slowing down the natural silvering / greying process caused by the suns UV rays. The oil dries to a durable, moisture repellent finish that is easy to maintain. Both the Osmo WR Base Coat (4001) and Clear UV protection Oil Extra 420 will darken the wood slightly giving a 'damp' like appearance. You can get an idea of how this will look by wiping the untreated wood with a damp cloth.

If you feel this is too dark, then you could have a look at the Osmo UV Protection Oil Natural 429 from the same range, this one has a minute amount of white pigment in to counter the darkening. To reduce / avoid the darkening that the Osmo WR Basecoat would create whilst preserving the door prior to oiling, use a suitable wax free wood preservative prior to applying the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra.

Sample sachets of the Osmo oils are available and doing a test area is strongly recommended as the type, age and condition of the wood will influence the final finish. In other words, the same product applied to 5 pieces of different wood will likely give a different finish on each.

Yew is a wood that can react slightly different to many woods, the heartwood and the sap wood can vary in hardness and you can find that the sap wood can be slightly higher in natural oil content and also a tighter grain, which is the opposite to what is usually expected. This is likely to be why you have had a different result with the Polyx Oil. Thinner application on the sap wood area or as you have mentioned you could look at using Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin (1101) as an alternate option. It will blend well with the Polyx Oil in other areas.

It's worth mentioning that whilst scaffold boards are widely used for furniture, they can be prone to shrinkage and warping. It's probably best to buy new boards that have been kiln dried and allowed to acclimatise to normal room conditions in terms of temperature and humidity, before planning to achieve a consistent thickness and size. For the best finish, they should be sanded with a 120 to 150 grit abrasive. Sanding too finely can cause issues with any wood finish that you choose to use.

A popular choice of finish for interior wood is hard wax oils. Hard wax oil products are durable, hard wearing, liquid, dirt and heat resistant. They are available in both clear and coloured formulations, are easy to apply, maintain and patch repair if required. Hard wax oils are ideal for use on wooden furniture, floors, doors and kitchen worktops. When finishing the wood treat all sides including the edges and ends as this will help to prevent the wood from drying out.

In terms of glues, we can recommend the following...

• Osmo D3 Express Wood PVA Adhesive
• Morrells Probond PVA Adhesive
• Morrells Probond Polyurethane Glue

None of the products we supply will be flammable once applied and cured, it is only solvent-based products that when in their liquid state need to be kept away from flames etc. If you are unsure, it's worth checking the product data sheets for relevant information.

For the interior of a Log Cabin we often recommend products like Fiddes Hard Wax Oil or Osmo Polyx Oil, for a natural look and feel to the wood. Hard Wax Oils are durable, liquid repellent and resistant to dirt, dust and other marks. They work by penetrating into the surface of the wood and oxidising with the air to form a highly durable yet easy to apply, maintain and repair finish. These types of products tend to have a high V.O.C (volatile organic compounds) content so will be smelly when first applied. Always allow for good ventilation during application and drying. The solvents used in these products will evaporate and disperse over a week to leave a tough, durable yet perfectly safe finish. Hard wax oils are often used on wooden toys, kitchen worktops and other food preparation surfaces. They also have excellent coverage, a small amount goes a long way and only requires 2 thin coats.

Clear hard wax oils tend to darken the wood giving it an almost damp like appearance. They also tend to enhance the natural colour and character of the wood grain which in the case of pine can be golden or a yellowy orange colour. To better retain the natural untreated appearance of the wood, consider the raw or natural versions. Links below...

• Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044)
• Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural

It's important to note that Hard Wax Oils are not suitable for exterior use such as on the outside of sheds and log cabins.

Sample sizes are available and test areas are recommended to assess the final finish before starting any project.

The Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is a good option to consider for a smooth planed fence. The UV Protection Oil Extra will slow down the silvering of the wood caused by weathering and UV damage. Being an oil as apposed to a paint or varnish. It will not peel or flake over time.

An alternative approach would be to use a Decking Oil. Decking oils are very versatile and can be used for a wide range of exterior wood care projects project. Barrettine Decking Oil also contains UV filters to slow down the natural silvering process and is also available in a clear finish.

Unfortunately you didn't say what sort of look you wanted to achieve so we will make some general recommendations. Although we don't currently sell any products that are specifically labelled as 'barn paint' products, we do have a variety of paints, exterior wood stains and coloured wood preservatives that are perfectly suitable for wood barn structures.

For a traditional black barn look, consider Ronseal Total Wood Preservative in black. This popular wood preservative will give a traditional black barn look whilst also protecting the wood from mould, algae and wood boring insects. This wood preserver contains a small amount of wax so will provide some weather protection. Ideally, overcoat the black preservative with Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment for the best possible protection.

For a more colourful barn finish consider products such as Protek Royal Exterior Paint for an opaque finish or Protek Royal Exterior Stain for a semi translucent finish. Both of these products are available in a variety of reds, blues, greens and a range of other attractive colours to brighten up the appearance of barns and barn doors.

For other more traditional shades of brown or green consider Protek Stable Coat or any of the other excellent coloured wood preservers we offer.

As with any new exterior structure such as a shed, log cabin, summerhouse or barn it's always best to treat the wood with a wood preservative then overcoat with an exterior grade paint, stain or wood oil. We have an excellent range of exterior wood preservers, clear and coloured that are perfect for the job. They will help to protect the barn timbers from mould, algae, fungi and wood boring insects. Once fully dry, the barn can be treated with an exterior wood oil such as Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment to help protect the structure from weathering.

If you're looking to paint your barn with a water-based exterior paint or barn paint, use a preservative that doesn't contain any wax as this may repel the paint or cause adhesion issues.

You can find a variety of products suitable for use on wooden barns on our barn finishes page including preservers, paints, stains and more.

Traditional Cresote is now only commercially available to farmers and other industries under licence and cannot be supplied to the public or unlicensed businesses due to its toxic nature. There is however a modern alternative called Creosolve which is safer for both the user and the environment. Barrettine Creosolve is an oil-based creosote substitute that is ideal for wooden barns, sheds, fences and more and is available in both light and dark brown colours.

There are a couple of ways to achieve a traditional black barn finish. Firstly you can use a black wood preservative such as Ronseal Total Wood Preservative, Ronseal Shed and Fence Preserver or Cuprinol Exterior Wood Preserver to colour and protect the barn from mould, algae and wood boring insects. These products can be used as a standalone treatment or overcoated with a clear exterior wood oil or decking oil to give the wood additional protection from weathering. For this, consider Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment.

To help avoid the orange look of pine we often recommend Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044). These are penetrating wood oils that contain a small amount of white pigment. This pigment counteracts the darkening and colour enhancement that is usually associated with clear wood finishing products on lighter coloured woods such as Pine. This product will better retain the natural, untreated look of the wood, whilst giving a durable, water and dirt resistant finish. Although it contains a small amount of white, it will not turn the wood visibly white if applied correctly i.e. 2 thin coats and wiping off any excess.

A clear hard wax oil or wood varnish will give a darker, almost damp like appearance but will likely enhance the naturally golden / orange character of the pine. A good way to test how the wood will look with a clear coat is to slightly dampen the wood with a clean sponge and water. This will give an indication of how the wood might look with a clear wood oil or varnish. This will of course vanish as the damp area dries out.

We always recommend doing test areas in an inconspicuous area such as the underside or inside of furniture to assess any product, it's suitability and final finish. Sample sizes of these products are available on our website.

The key to this project is knowing what type of finish is currently on these pieces of furniture

If it's a varnish or paint you are looking to remove then consider Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover from Barrettine. It's a highly effective paint and varnish remover that works in just minutes and removes most types of paint and varnish.

We always recommend doing a test area somewhere inconspicuous first to ensure there is no reaction or damage to the wood, before starting your project. This should be done on each piece of furniture.

If the furniture has been waxed then a wax and polish remover such as Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover should be used. These products effectively strip off old or worn waxes or polishes to expose the bare wood underneath.

Alternatively, these pieces of furniture can be sanded but this can be messy and if coated with a pre 1970's paint, potentially dangerous. A light sanding can be done once the furniture has been stripped if required and prior to refinishing.

In terms of refinishing once stripped, this depends on the type of finish desired. We supply a wide range of wood oils, waxes, paints and varnishes that could be used to refinish these items. To get a better idea of the type of finish you would like and so that we can recommend some suitable products, please contact us so that one of our trained in-house experts can help you with this project.

Application of almost any wood oil will darken the wood to some degree and enhance the natural colour tones and character of the timber. The type, age and condition of the wood will all have an impact on the final, oiled colour. Teak, is generally a darker and slightly more red toned wood and any applied oil will highlight this richness.

It will be difficult to maintain the lighter, natural colour with a penetrating product. On a tropical hard wood such as Teak, you could consider Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra Natural (429), however I would strongly recommend a test area first because of the type of wood you are applying to. This product contains a small amount of white pigment that counteracts the darkening effect of the oil. Whilst it works very well on lighter coloured timbers, is can leave a slightly milky hue on darker woods. Some people like this and other don't, so trying the sample sachet is a good place to start.

To use this oil you would need to sand the furniture back to bare wood first, to remove the current finish.

The unevenness in the first finish could be just a result of the wood and the absorbsion of the oil. Wood is not uniform as it grows so some areas can be more dense than others. This means that the oils can be absorbed unevenly meaning that it may sink further into some areas than others. This can usually be rectified by applying another thin coat but it's important to not over apply the oil and to remove any excess from the surface of the wood with a clean, lint-free cloth.

For bathrooms we always recommend a coat of Osmo Wood Protector (4006) first, this gives a more moisture repellent finish to the wood and helps to prevent mould and rot. This will slightly darken the wood however as it penetrates the woods grain.

A clear oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil will maintain the natural appearance, but will darken the wood again, much like when you wipe water over bare wood, it will enhance and enrich the woods natural tones. sample sizes are available and I would recommend these although for a stool the 125ml tin will be more than enough to complete two thin coats required for a protective finish.

An alternative is Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044), this contains a minute amount of white pigment to counteract the darkening effect, however you can not use the Wood protector before hand as this will darken the wood. Again samples are available and a test area is recommended.

Wax is a great product and can be applied over most finishes as well as bare wood. However, you can not apply anything over the top of wax. Varnish will not adhere and oils, including Osmo Polyx Oil, will be unable to penetrate through the wax to the wood of the floor. Unfortunately, any wax currently on the floor will need to be removed before an oil can be applied.

Sanding the floor with a 120-150 grit abrasive is the best way of preparing the floor prior to oiling. Reclaimed boards and especially Pine can be unpredictable and results can vary, because the history of the wood used for the boards.

Depending on the size of the floor i.e. if its a small room. It may be possible to remove the wax with a wax and polish remover such as Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover. This will break down the wax on the wood and allow it to be wiped off with rags. If the wax is old and has many layers, it may require several treatments to get the boards back to bare wood.

Before applying the Polyx Oil, we strongly recommend some test areas in random places across the floor to test the finish produced on the reclaimed boards.

Wax is a very versatile finish and can be applied over bare wood and most finished woods very easily, it will add some protection, lustre and shine and give an over all refreshed appearance.

However you cannot apply any other product over a wax finish. Varnishes will not adhere and oils will be prevented from penetrating the wood as it should. So I am afraid the answer to your question is no, you will need to remove the wax first and this can be done with a product such as a Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover

Walnut is a fairly dense wood and for this reason we would recommend trying a sample tin of Osmo Decking Oil. The reason for this is that it is a thin, refined oil that will penetrate in to the wood grain better than some alternative wood oils. Oil is better for exterior projects as it will not peel and flake over time and is far easier to repair and maintain. Leaving the wood looking and feeling very natural. Only two very thin coats are required. A little oil goes a long way and by the sounds of it, a sample tin should be sufficient to complete this project.

Always do a test area to assess product suitability and final finish before starting the project.

The beauty of an oiled floor is that if the finish becomes worn or damaged, they are very easy to repair. It may be that if a good clean and refresh with the Kit is not doing the job, then lightly sanding the affected area to remove the stains and dirt may be required. This doesn't mean sanding the floor back to bare wood, just enough to remove the dirt and stains. Once done, simply re-oil the sanded area with a thin coat of the floor oil originally used which in this case was Fiddes Hard Wax Oil, taking care to remove any excess with a clean, lint free cloth and allow to dry. This should produce an invisible repair that blends in seamlessly with the surrounding floor

For the sanding, use a 120 to 150 grit sandpaper and sand gently. Take care to remove all traces of sanding dust with a vacuum cleaner or lint-free cloth prior to oiling.

Wood oils are a good option for exterior wood care projects. They are easy to apply, maintain and repair, should the need arise. They will also not crack, flake or peel off the surface.

The quickest and easiest approach for your worktop is to clean the surface by giving it a wipe down with a clean lint-free cloth dampened with methylated spirit. Once this is done simply re-oil the surface with a thin coat or 2 of oil taking care to remove any surplus from the surface. This should restore the worktop back to its former glory.

In terms of maintenance, a thin application of oil in spring and autumn and/or if the worktop is starting to look tired or worn should keep it protected and looking great all year around.

Always check the information leaflet or literature that came with the worktop to see if it advises against any products that could impact the worktop guarantee.

A good option to consider for your worktop is Osmo Top Oil. This oil will enhance and protect the worktop whilst giving a natural look and feel to the wood. A normal feature of most wood oils is that it will give the wood an almost damp like appearance making the worktop darker and enhancing the natural character and grain of the wood.

Unless treated with a wood oil, it's always better to remove any previous wood treatments and take the item back to clean, bare wood.

Wood oils are a good option for exterior wood as they penetrate into the wood grain and protect the wood from moisture and weathering. Oils are very easy to apply and maintain and will never crack, flake or peel over time. For Iroko, which is an oily tropical Hard wood, not all exterior wood oils would be suitable. Our recommendation for Iroko gates would be Osmo Decking Oil. This is because it is a thinner oil than others and more suited to exotic hardwoods. Although it is clear, it will darken the wood to some degree in the same way that water would. To get an indication of how the gates will look if oiled, once sanded back, wipe over a section with a clean sponge and water to dampen the wood. How this looks when damp is a good indication of how it will look ones oiled.

Alternatively, Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus followed by Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus could be an option. These are coloured, varnish type finishes that coat the surface of the wood. The pigments in these products act as UV filters to provide the wood additional protection from the greying effects of UV damage.

Both of these options will weather and require maintenance from time to time. It's always difficult to give a maintenance time frame as it really is dependent on how much wind, rain and sun the gates get. Saying this, it's normally easy to tell as the finish will start to loose some of its lustre and will start to look tired and perhaps a little dull.

Before starting any project we always recommend doing a test area to assess product suitability and final finish.

Your application of 1 coat of 3044 (Osmo Polyx Oil Raw) and 1 of 3032 (Polyx Oil Clear Satin) is one way of helping to retain the natural untreated look of your reclaimed Oak floor. This could however still result in some darkening or yellowing of the floor.

All the Osmo Oils require just two thin coats. Applying additional coats can actually make the finish softer and more prone to scuffs, scratches and stains. This is because the oils are designed to penetrate into the wood and harden within the surface rather than forming a skin on the surface of the wood.

If you like the finish achieved on the test area, with the combination used then there's no reason why this won't work, as long as only two thin coats are applied.

For even less darkening than you have achieved with the 3044 and the 3032 combination, you could try a test area with just two coats of Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044).

Check to see if the preserver contains any wax or not. If it did, you won't be able to apply the Cuprinol Garden Shades directly over the top as the wax in the preserver will repel the water-based garden shades. If the preserver was 'wax free' and has fully dried, baring in mind the colour difference that this may produce, you should be able to paint over the area treated with the preserver with the garden shades paint.

If the preservative used was a solvent-based preserver and contained wax, you may be able to soak and scrub the wax and some if not most of the colour out using methylated spirit and a clean absorbent cloth. The cloth should be white or uncoloured, otherwise the methylated spirit may cause any colour in the cloth to transfer to the wood.

It is for this reason that we always recommend doing a test area to assess a products suitability and final finish before starting any project.

You could take a look at the Dulux Trade Ultimate Woodstain. This product has a range of colours, including Rosewood, and is suitable for exterior doors and dries to a durable, satin finish.

It is a highly durable and flexible woodstain, that is resistant to peeling, flaking and blistering and is washable. And as a one coat system makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

There are a couple of options you are able to consider. The first is sticking with Cuprinol and looking at the Cuprinol Anti-Slip Decking Stain this is a surface sealer that will provide an anti slip finish for the bridge.

Alternatively, Holzol Decking Oil has a green within its range. This is a penetrating oil that gives a more natural look and feel to the wood, whilst still offering a durable finish. Oils are easier to maintain and repair than a surface sealers such as the Cuprinol Decking Stain as they will not crack, flake or peel.

It is true that Osmo 420 will not last as long on a horizontal surface and is not recommended by Osmo. It can be used if the sills have enough of an angle to allow any water to run off. Even if the sills have a suitable run off angle, they will still likely require more maintenance than vertical surfaces.

The issue with horizontal surfaces is that water pools on the surface of the finish / wood. Being microporous, if the standing water or moisture doesn't dry for a prolonged period, it can eventually penetrate through the finish and into the wood. This can cause issues for both the finish and the wood including the potential for mould, swelling and warping of the timber.

An alternative to using an oil is to use a coating-based system from brands such as Sikkens or Sadolin. These brands produce coating systems where a base-coat or colour is applied then over-coated with a highly durable top-coat. The benefit of these products is that they are more resistant to standing water and will require less maintenance than oils on a horizontal surface. This said, the top-coat will degrade over time and will require maintenance at some point to retain the protective properties of the finish.

To discuss the various products and options in more detail, we recommend that you contact us and speak with one of our resident wood care experts.

Morrells Light Fast Wood Stain will be ideal for your work top / desk top project. The surface should be sanded to no finer than 120 to 150 grit and wiped clean with methylated spirit and allowed to dry prior to staining.

Once stained, the wood will be ready for varnishing and any polyurethane varnish will be fine. If using a solvent-based varnish, take care when applying the first coat. Apply the varnish gently and with minimal brush strokes to avoid re-activating the stain and dragging the colour. Once the first coat is dry, the second coat will be fine as the stain would have been sealed into the wood by the dry first coat.

When staining then finishing wood, It is vital to carry out a test area with both the stain and varnish top-coat. The top-coat will enhance the colour and depth of the stain and can look very different to just the stain alone.

Once sanded down, we recommend using Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner. This will not only clean the mould from the wood but will also kill off any living mould spores deeper in the wood grain, therefore helping to prevent mould from growing back shortly after re-finishing.

Sikkens Cetol TSI Satin Plus is a great option for interior wooden sills and frames. This is a coloured varnish that will give a long lasting protective finish. The product is UV resistant so will protect the colour of the wood for longer, and dries to a satin finish.

For a clear option, consider Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish. This tough, durable interior varnish is water-based and is available in a range of sheen levels. It's also available in sample sizes.

For help with this project, it could be worth reading our recent blog about grey floor finishes.

We have a great range of grey finishes and some will be better for your floor than others. Pine can be problematic and it's for this reason that we recommend trying samples of various products, on test areas, to ensure that you're happy with the result before starting this project.

There are a number of ways and products that can be used to achieve the finish you desire. You can either stain the floor first then oil or use an all-in-one coloured wood oil. The method used will depend on the depth and strength of colour required.

For a project like this. It might be worth contacting us and speaking with one of our in-house experts about your project.

For a domestic Iroko worktop we would normally recommend a thin oil such as Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin (1101). However, whilst this product is durable, easy to maintain and repair, it probably won't stand up to the demands of a school science table.

The preferred alternative would be a durable, commercial grade varnish such as Sadolin PV67 Heavy Duty Varnish or Manns Trade Bar Top Lacquer which will provide an ultra tough and durable finish.

Before applying either of the above, it's essential that the work top surface is prepared by sanding then wiped down with methylated spirit. Iroko is a naturally oily wood and any oil in or near the surface must be dissolved and removed prior to applying the varnish. An isolating wood primer may also help with adhesion. Once sanded and wiped down with meths, the work top should be lacquered fairly quickly so that deeper oil in the wood doesn't have a chance to raise to the surface.

Most water-based lacquers or varnishes will last for at least a year if they are stored correctly and not allowed to freeze. Without knowing which specific lacquer you are referring to it's difficult to give a more specific answer.

The fact that it's 2-part or 2-pack doesn't really have any baring on the shelf life of the lacquer. The supplied catalyst only affects the product once mixed to provide a harder and usually quicker drying product.

Once the hardener or catalyst has been added to the lacquer it usually has a usable open time of around 4 hours. This can vary from one product to another so always check the manufacturers instructions and directions on the tin. It is recommended that only the amount required for each coat is mixed at any time to avoid product wastage. Any unused / unmixed product should last for 6 months to a year if stored correctly.

To get the best possible storage life out of the product, always follow the storage and usage instructions on the tin.

The short answer to this is yes. Choose the required stain and apply. Once dry it can be sealed with an oil or varnish. If you're specifically looking for an anti-slip finish then Bona Traffic HD Anti Slip Varnish is probably a good option. This commercial grade varnish is very durable and hard wearing making it ideal for staircases. If an oiled finish is preferred, consider Osmo Polyx Oil Anti-Slip. The benefit of an oil is that should the finish start to look tired or worn over time, it can be very easily restored and made to look like new again without having to sand the staircase back to bare wood.

We have a huge range of wood stains suitable for softwood and hardwood staircases. One thing to bare in mind is that when applying a top coat such as an oil or varnish over the stain, it tends to strengthen and deepen the colour of the stain. Our recommendation is to always try several stain samples with the top coat applied to get a more accurate idea of how the stairs will look once completed. In other words, never make a judgment on colour by using the stain alone without the top coat applied.

Horizontal surfaces are always the first to weather as they are typically more exposed to the elements, standing water and moisture ingress. Vertical surfaces tend to be less exposed and water just runs off.

The key to avoiding these issues is regular maintenance. To rectify this situation, use Methylated Spirits to remove dirt and grease from the exposed surface. Once cleaned, the exposed wood should be treated with a mould and mildew treatment such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner to kill off any mould spores embedded in the grain of the timber. Once dry, treat the area with a wood restorer such as Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (6609) or Barrettine Wood Reviver to restore the original colour of the timber and then re-apply 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra.

An additional layer of protection that can be added prior to oiling is one-coat of Osmo Wood Protector (4006). This product is a highly water resistant base-coat, preserver.

An alternative to the above would be to sand the horizontal surfaces to remove the grey surface and then re-oil once new, fresh wood is exposed. We would however recommend that the wood is still treated with a mould and mildew cleaner prior to oiling to be sure that all mould spores have been eliminated.

The maintenance period for these products is always difficult to estimate as it is literally down to how much wind, rain and sun the wood gets. For example, the windows on a cliff top, sea facing cottage will require more maintenance than a sheltered town house.

Colour matching a filler to a wood can be tricky and will likely require some experimentation to get the best match. Unfortunately Osmo Exterior Gap Sealer is not stainable so if choosing this product, either the 'Redwood' or 'Dark Brown' might be the better options to try. Generally speaking, it looks better if the filler is the same colour or darker than the surrounding wood.

The alternative to the Osmo Exterior Gap Sealer is to use a pre-coloured filler or a stainable, exterior wood filler. This means further experimentation with fillers and stains however to achieve the desired colour. Using a traditional filler instead of a tube like gap filler may also be more tricky to get a neat, tidy finish around a door frame and the adjoining brick work / masonry.

Colours are always subjective and the only way to get the finish that meets your expectations is through testing and experimentation.

It's worth mentioning that exterior Oak can be problematic as it has a tendency to split and crack fairly quickly once exposed to the elements. Another point worth mentioning is that oils tend to weather quicker on horizontal surfaces where moisture or water can sit for prolonged periods. They can be used but depending on where the property is situated and the amount of weathering it receives, may need semi-regular maintenance to retain the integrity and effectiveness of the finish. This is less of an issue if the window sills have an angled surface so that water runs off rather than pooling on the surface. In terms of exterior joinery there are a couple of options you could consider. These are...

• Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra
• Fiddes Exterior High Build Wood Oil

Both of these products are durable and contain UV filters to slow down the greying process caused by the suns UV rays. These penetrating wood oils are water / moisture repellent and help to keep the wood nourished and supple, therefore reducing the chances of the wood drying out and warping.

In terms of UV resistance, a coloured product always provides better UV protection than a clear product. This is because the colour pigments within the product essentially help to block some of the UV rays from reaching the wood.

A product that can be used to improve water resistance prior to applying the Osmo oil above is Osmo WR Base Coat (4001). This is a protective base-coat that can be used with most of the oils in the 'UV protection oil extra' range. This product however is not recommended for use as a basecoat under Osmo UV Protection Oil Natural (429).

An alternative approach to using a wood oil and possibly a better option for Oak would be to use a coating-based system from brands such as Sikkens or Sadolin. These brands produce coating systems where a base-coat or colour is applied then over-coated with a highly durable top-coat. The benefit of these products is that they are more resistant to standing water and will require less maintenance than oils on a horizontal surface. This said, the top-coat will degrade over time and will require maintenance at some point to retain the protective properties of the finish.

To discuss the various products and options in more detail, we recommend that you contact us and speak with one of our resident wood care experts.

Cuprinol Ultimate Garden Wood Preserver is an ideal product for your fence. It will help to prevent mould and rot and contains wax to repel moisture, which is the biggest cause of damage to wood.

Because this product is coloured it will also provide some protection against UV damage.

Sounds like an interesting project. Scaffold boards can be great for making things and we've seen them used for decking, flooring and to make furniture such as storage boxes and more. One thing to be aware of is that scaffold boards can be prone to shrinkage and warping so care should be taken to ensure that they are suitably dry, planed, sanded, secured and finished to protect from moisture.

In terms of wood stains, we wouldn't recommend a water-based stain where there is likely to be a lot of moisture. For kitchens and bathrooms, we tend to recommend solvent-based stains such as Manns Trade Light Fast Wood Stain or a coloured wood oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints. If a tinted wood oil is used a top oil is not necessary.

Worktops take a lot of punishment and are exposed to lots of moisture and water, especially around sink and tap areas. Although varnishes can be used, the ease of applying, maintaining and even repairing oiled surfaces makes them the preferred choice. Although varnishes can work well, if the surface becomes chipped or damaged, water can penetrate into the wood and beneath the varnish. This can ultimately lead to the varnish de-laminating from the wood and eventually cracking or peeling off. Some varnishes are better suited to wortops than others and if its a varnish you prefer, we recommend that you contact us to discuss the various options.

Osmo Top Oil is a popular choice for kitchen worktops and is available in a range of sheens and colours to give a variety of effects. Top oils are tough, durable and will protect the worktop from water, stains and heat (plates and cups but not the underside of saucepans or frying pans straight from the hob). For an additional level of protection worktops can be treated with Osmo Wood Protector (4006) prior to oiling. This product however is not recommended if using Osmo Top Oil White 3037.

When doing a project like this we always recommend that a test area is done to assess product suitability and final finish. If the wood is to be stained and then over-coated with a top coat, the test area should include both the stain and the top-coat.

The wood should be correctly and evenly sanded to ensure a consistent colour. Where possible, stain and oil / varnish all surfaces including edges, ends and underside to provide the best protection and resistance from moisture.

Unfortunately, a knot blocker would need to be applied before the paint. It blocks naturally-forming resins found in wood from being dissolved by the solvents in paints and seeping to the surface. This then discolours the paint finish.

Ultimately, you would need to take back to bare wood to apply the knotting solution. This will allow the solution to soak into the knotted area effectively and prevent the resins from being expelled.

Rather than sanding back everything, it may be possible to sand back just the areas where the knots have bled through. Sand these areas thoroughly all the way back to bare wood, apply the knot blocker and allow to fully dry, re-apply the primer to the sanded areas and when dry, re-paint and blend in with the non-sanded areas. The issue with this approach is that there may still be knots that have not yet bled through which may still do at a later date. It is possible however that this might not happen.

Osmo Polyx Oil Tint 3092 (Gold) is a clear oil with gold flecks added so it will not necessarily make it more golden.

For a warmer, more golden finish, we suggest trying the 'Amber (3072)' or 'Honey (3071)' from the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints range. Alternatively, perhaps a colour from the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Transparent range which has a wider choice of colours. Both products are available in sample sizes for testing.

Osmo Polyx Oil Tints will give you a slightly more durable finish, but both products are easy to apply and maintain if they start to look worn or tired over time. It is vital that the oil is applied very thinly and that any excess is removed with a lint free cloth. Normal application is 2 thin coats.

Cuprinol Ducksback can be used on rough sawn timber. If the timber has been planned or has a smooth surface then the product may not adhere properly. Cuprinol advise brush application for the best finish.

Working in the direction of the grain, allow 2-4 hours between coats, adding more coats for a stronger, more intensive colour finish.

A roller could be used, but may impact on uptake and when applying on the recommended rough sawn timber, may have issues such as snagging.

Preservers are always recommended before applying any exterior finish. Preservers help to prevent the wood from being affected by mould, algae and rot, giving the best possible protection. When applying a varnish or paint over the top it is important to ensure that any preserver used does not contain wax, as this will repel any water-based products that you try to apply over the top, causing adhesion issues.

Sticking with the same brand for compatibility is a better option. For example, Sadolin Yacht Varnish can be used over Sadolin Wood Preserver. If you find yourself using a different brands, we highly recommend that a test area is done to assess product suitability and compatibility. It's also worth keeping in mind that the top-coat manufacturer may not guarantee the performance of their topcoat if applied over a preservative from a different manufacturer.

Teak Oil is ideal for hardwoods such as Iroko, because it is thinner in viscosity and more suited for use with tropical hardwoods with a tight grain. Teak oil provides a reasonably good level of protection but will likely require more regular maintenance.

The Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin (1101) that you have seen on our site is ideal for exotic hardwoods. The main benefit with Osmo Extra Thin Oil is that it's more durable and longer lasting than Teak oil meaning less maintenance.

As the worktops have already been oiled there are a couple of choices.

• Allow the teak oil to wear for several months then re-oil with the Osmo Extra Thin once the teak oil starts to loose its water repellent, protective properties.
• Wipe down the worktops with methylated spirits to dissolve and remove most of the teak oil from the wood surface.

Option 1 means just leaving the worktops. Areas that get used the most will wear quicker than those that don't. Option 2 is the quick way of re-doing the worktops but will be smelly and messy. You will require several Woodleys Microfiber Cloths to mop up the meths and the dissolved teak oil. Good ventilation is also essential when removing and/or applying any oil.

Used cloths and rags should never be thrown directly in to the bin. They should be soaked in water and stored in an air tight container to prevent the risk of spontaneous combustion. They can be disposed of in the bin once they have dried.

The area around the sink will simply need a little more maintenance than the rest of the worktops. As soon as it starts to look tired, worn or loosing its water repellent properties, simply clean, dry then apply a thin application of oil to the affected area.

It's always a good idea to seal any gaps where water could penetrate, especially around wood. for this, we recommend Osmo Interior Gap Sealer, a waterproof, flexible gap sealer that is available in a wide range of colours.

If your up stand is also wood then yes it should absolutely be treated as well.

In terms of day to day cleaning, household detergents and cleaners should never be used. These products tend to contain detergents that are designed to breakdown oil and grease and could potentially strip the oil from the wood. Always use a dedicated worktop cleaner that's suitable for oiled surfaces. These will clean the worktop surfaces whilst maintaining the oiled finish.

For exterior wood, our recommendation would be to use a wood oil as they will not crack, flake or peel over time as varnishes can and often do. Osmo WR Base Coat (4001) is an oil-based wood preservative that will penetrate the wood surface, and help to protect the wood from mould, mildew and rot. A top coat of Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra gives a moisture repellent seal to the wood, that is easy to maintain and will not peel and flake over time.

This product contains UV filters and will slow down the silvering process of the wood. The coloured or pigmented versions offer slightly better UV protection than the clear (420) oil. As a general rule, the darker or stronger the colour is, the more UV protection it provides against sun damage.

Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is available in small 5ml sample sachets so that the colour and finish of the product can be tested on the wood to be treated. This oil has excellent coverage and even the 5ml sample sachet will cover an area of approximately 4 to 6 inches with 2 coats.

When treating the board, we recommend that all sides are treated with the preservative and oil including the edges and back. If possible, the board edges should be angled to allow any water to run off rather than sitting on flat edges. Flat edges and surfaces where water can collect and sit can be problematic and will likely require more regular maintenance.

If the finish is still quite rough then you may need to consider further sanding. We recommend sanding with a 120 to 150 Grit abrasive. If you find that cloths or sponges are catching when you wipe over and there are still lots of cracks or crevices, you will have trouble keeping the surface clean and germ/bacteria free. A wood filler may be required to fill and smooth out any deeper cracks, splits and surface imperfections in the wood.

There are two options when it comes to worktops, Oil or Varnish. Oils soak in to the surface of the wood to give a natural look and feel. They provide good durability, are easy to apply and maintain but you may find that the oil take-up is initially high for this wood as it is aged and textured.

The alternative is a Varnish. A varnish will seal the surface of the wood better including any minor surface imperfections. A varnish will also produce a smoother surface. Although varnishes are more durable than an oiled surface, they cannot be easily maintained or repaired. This means that if the varnish gets damaged, it could allow moisture and water to penetrate into the wood. This could eventually lead to the varnish lifting, cracking, splitting or flaking over time.

We always strongly recommend doing a test area to ensure you get the finish you want and to see how the product looks and performs on the wood you have, and especially so with reclaimed or re-purposed wood.

Some products to consider are Manns Premier Top Oil or Osmo Top Oil for an oiled finish.

For varnishes, consider Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish or Fiddes Clear Glaze.

Always wear the appropriate, protective clothing and face mask when applying woodworm treatments. The property should be well ventilated during and after application. Drying time from last coat is usually around 6- 8 hours at this time of year but is also dependent on the woodworm treatment being used. The treated wood should be left for 48 hours before applying any top-coat such as a paint, oil or varnish.

Permethrin is not dangerous to humans in these small doses, and you should be able to continue working in the property if required.  This said however, always read the guidelines, instructions and advice given by the manufacturer on the product packaging before use.

Ideally, the issue of condensation needs addressing first so that the wood can dry out fully. There are likely to be issues with any wood finish that is applied to wet wood or wood that has a high moisture content. This project is better left until spring or summer when a spell of warm, dry weather is forecast and the window can be left open for a couple of days to a week to fully dry out. Once dry, treatment can begin.

Once dry, any existing varnish must be removed by sanding or with a paint stripper or remover. When the old varnish has been removed and the bare wood is exposed, treat the wood with a mould and mildew cleaner such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Spray. This will remove the blackening of the wood and kill off any mould spores in the surface of the wood. If the blackening is particularly bad, a second application of the mould and mildew cleaner may be required.

If the wood has softened, it can be treated with Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener to restore the strength and integrity of the timber. Once this has fully dried, treat the wood with a suitable wood preserver. Our recommendation would be to use a wax-free wood preservative such as Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver. This will help to prevent further issues with mould and algae. Being a 'wax-free' preservative it's also fine to use prior to re-varnishing or painting the wood with a water-based product. If moisture is an on-going problem, an interior wood oil such as a hard wax oil could be a better option. Hard Wax Oils will never crack, flake or peel, are extremely water resistant and are very easy to apply and maintain.

Key to the long term success of this project however is trying to resolve the condensation issue. If you have any further questions or queries regarding this project or any of the products suggested above, feel free to contact us.

It is not necessary but if a preservative is required or desired, use a biocide free preserver such as Osmo Wood Protector (4006).

The inside of log cabins can be treated the same as the inside of a property, with interior floor oils or floor varnishes. These products can also be used on the walls and ceiling if required to achieve a desired finish and protect surfaces from dirt, dust and moisture. For some product suggestions, see our wall and ceiling finishes page and our floor finishes page.

Floor oils are generally very easy to maintain and repair. You should be able to use the oil originally used to do a top up or maintenance coat (depending on the condition of the wood and following the manufacturers instructions at all times). The floor may require cleaning with a dedicated wood floor cleaner prior to re-oiling. It's interesting to note that only 1 coat of oil was applied when the floor was installed. As far as we are aware, most Hard Wax Oils require 2 thin coats for the best protection and finish.

If you no longer have the original oil used, an alternative hard wax oil can be used. Hard wax oils offer exceptional protection and durability, are scratch, scuff, dirt and liquid resistant. They are available in a range of sheen levels including matt, satin, semi-gloss and gloss finishes as well as in clear and coloured variations.

As we are not familiar with the Saico Premium Hard Wax Oil originally used, we strongly recommend doing a test areas with the selected, alternative hardwax oil before starting this project, to assess product suitability and final finish. Most of the hard wax oils we supply are available in sample or small tin sizes.

If the floor is badly worn, it may benefit from a light sanding to prep the surface. This is just a quick rub-down with a P120 grit sandpaper rather than using an industrial sander to strip the surface. Once sanded, use a vacuum cleaner to remove all traces of sanding dust before re-oiling the floor.

Apply 1 thin maintenance coat then allow to fully dry. If the floor is particularly dry and worn a second thin coat may be required. before applying the second coat, do a small test area in the corner of the room or behind a door to ensure that the floor is able to absorb the second coat. If the test area remains sticky or tacky after the published drying time then it doesn't require a second coat. If it dries completely and looks good then a second thin coat can be applied. Don't be tempted to apply more than 2 coats or to apply thickly as this will cause problems. Apply thinly at all times and wipe off any excess oil with a clean, uncoloured, lint-free cloth.

In terms of long term care and maintenance, simply repeat the above process as and when required. This will usually be once every 2 to 5 years depending on how much foot traffic the floor gets. The great thing is that if the finish wears only in specific patches, these patches can be treated in isolation without having to re-oil the whole floor and will blend in seamlessly with the surrounding floor.

If you require any further assistance with this project, you can send us some photos of the floor and contact us here.

This can be done by applying one thin coat of the Tint Oil or Wood Wax Finish, and one thin coat of the Polyx Oil Anti-Slip on top. Most Osmo products require just two thin coats of oil to be applied to the floor. Applying more than 2 thin coats can result in drying issues and the finish actually being less tough and durable, meaning it can be more easily scuffed, scratched and marked.

White finishes are more complex however and the clear, anti-slip oil should not be used on top of white oils or stains. Using a clear oil or varnish over a white wood stain or oil can result in a yellow or off-white finish. For more information on White finishes, please see our Blog on Beautiful White Interiors or alternatively, contact us here.

Test areas are strongly advised before starting any project to assess product suitability and final finish.

The above recommendation is based on application to barewood.

Matching woods to other woods or imitation woods can be difficult, but not impossible. Experimentation will be required to achieve the nearest colour match. A good place to start is Manns Classic Pine Stain. It's a highly versatile, water-based wood stain that can be inter-mixed or diluted with water to achieve an almost unlimited number of colours and shades. The depth and intensity of the colour can be made darker/stronger by applying more coats. Test areas are key and must include the top-coat (oil or varnish). Applying the top-coat usually deepens and/or intensifies the colour of the wood stain.

As this is a water-based stain it is likely to raise the grain of the pine handrail meaning that it will feel less smooth. To counter this, the handrail can be wet sanded before application to raise and reduce the grain first or lightly dry sanded after each coat of the stain. It's important to only lightly sand the wood after applying the stain to keep the wood smooth, heavy sanding can potentially sand some of the stain out of the wood. Our recommendation would be to use a 120 to 150 grit Woodleys Finishing Pad or other abrasive such as sandpaper sheets.

Manns wood stains must be finished with a varnish or oil top-coat such as Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish. Varnishes tend to be more durable and are better for a higher gloss finish if this is desired/required. Oils are better if a more natural appearance is required and are easier to maintain if they start to look worn over time.

If using a water-based top coat such as a varnish, apply the first coat thinly, passing over the surface with few strokes to avoid any lifting or dragging of the stain. Apply the second coat as normal, denibbing between coats.

Are you able to confirm what type of wood the gates are made from please? This will help with the advice we can provide.

Knowing how long the oil finish will last is dependent on how much wind, rain and sun the gates are exposed to. Because of this, Osmo are unable to give a specific time frame of how long the oil finish will last but as a very rough guide from other users experiences, the finish will probably be good for 2 plus years, before requiring a maintenance coat. This is just an estimation and is very dependent on the amount of weathering they receive.

Before oiling the gates we recommend that they are treated with a mould and mildew cleaner. This includes all edges, top and bottom, and especially any 'cut ends' or 'end grain'. Although there may not be any visible signs of mould or algae when the gates are delivered or installed, If the wood has at anytime been damp or wet, mould spores could already be present in the surface grain of the timber. Using a mould and mildew cleaner will kill off any spores in the wood prior to oiling.

The next phase would be to treat the wood with a wood preservative. Using a wood preserver will help to protect the wood from mould, algae and insect attack. Osmo WR Base Coat (4001) is a good choice and compatible with Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra.

It's worth checking the gates on a semi-regular basis for signs of mould, algae and water penetration. The first places to be affected are usually the flat, horizontal surfaces where water can collect and sit. This can degrade the finish and promote organic growth over-time. If there is any sign that these surfaces have lost there ability to repel water, simply apply a thin maintenance coat of oil when the wood is dry. In the event of mould or algae appearing, re-treat with the mould and mildew cleaner then re-oil the affected area once dry

In general, hardwood gates made from exotic hardwoods such as teak and Iroko are naturally more resistant to weathering, biological threats and rot. Gates made from Oak or softwoods need more care and maintenance but if well maintained, can last for many decades.

This is a common issue with stairs where UV and general wear have affected the wood at the sides and the middle area has been protected by a carpet runner. It can sometimes be as simple as further sanding with a coarser 40 to 80 grit sandpaper, to really remove the surface layer of the wood. This should bring back the original wood colour and an even appearance. If sanding with a coarse 40 to 80 grit abrasive, it's important to sand again afterwards with a 120 to 150 grit abrasive to restore a smooth surface that is suitable for finishing with a wood oil, varnish or stain.

An alternative approach to consider would be Fiddes Oxalic Acid Crystals to restore the original colour of the wood. I would strongly recommend a test area first to ensure it gives the desired result. Any test area should include the final finish be it a wood oil or varnish to get the full effect before starting the project. The test area should overlap the two different coloured areas to ensure that the reaction is the same and that you are happy with the appearance.

Essentially the wood has aged differently and so although you may be able to bring the natural appearance of the wood close by sanding or bleaching, the finish may still highlight a lesser difference because of variances in how the wood has aged over many years.

One thing to mention is that pine has a naturally yellowy or golden appearance and when sanded, cleaned then finished with an oil or varnish, can become orange or golden looking. This isn't always to everyone's taste. Your test area will give you a good indication of how the final finish will look. If you wish to better retain the natural, untreated look of the sanded pine, it's worth considering wood oils like Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural, or varnishes such as Bona Mega Natural or Liberon Natural Finish Floor Varnish. These products are designed to counter the natural yellowing that standard, clear finishing products can produce and better retain the natural, untreated look of the wood. Varnishes are generally more durable than wood oils but cannot be patch repaired if they become worn, chipped or damaged. Oils are only slightly less durable than varnishes but are much easier to maintain and patch repair if required.

If you have any further questions or queries regarding this project, please feel free to contact us.

If the Duck board doesn't currently have a finish applied to it, wipe it over with Methylated Spirits followed by two very thin coats of Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin (1101). This product is thin enough to penetrate in to the tight grain of the Teak and will offer a good level of moisture repellecy to the wood. It is also very easy to maintain by simply applying a thin maintenance coat as and when required. If it is new Teak it will likely repel moisture for a while anyway. If this is the case and the Osmo Extra Thin does not absorb well in to the wood, wait for around 12 weeks and try a test area again.

Another option to consider is Colron Refined Teak Oil. This is ideal for use on Teak but will require more coats, has a slower drying time and will require more regular maintenance over time. It does however have excellent water repellent properties like the Osmo Extra Thin 1101.

Whichever option you choose, when treating the wood with the oil and if possible before installation, take care to oil all surfaces including the edges and especially the cut ends or end grain. Always do a test area to assess product suitability and final finish before starting any project.

The decking protector is designed to go onto bare wood or pressure treated timber, because it needs to penetrate the wood surface. It cannot go over a stain as this will prevent the protector from penetrating the wood.

Any clear wood finishing product such as an oil or varnish will darken the wood slightly. To get an idea of how this will likely look, you can wipe the bare wood with a clean cloth dampened with water. Water, the clearest of liquids will darken the porous surface of the wood despite being totally colourless. It would be fair to say that wood oils will change the wood more than a varnish as it penetrates the woods surface. Water-based varnishes tend to change the colour of the wood the least.

In terms of rectifying the situation you could try dampening a clean, uncoloured, lint-free cloth or rag with White Spirit and wiping over the door. The white spirit will break down the Polyx Oil and should remove much of it from the wood. Take care not to soak the door with white spirit as this may cause issues with the glue that holds the veneer in place. Sanding may also be a solution but without knowing how thick the veneer is, its probably better to hand sand rather than use a power sander. A combination of white spirit and then light sanding may be required. When sanding, use a 120 Grit abrasive and no finer. Finer sand paper can cause absorption issues when re-oiling the doors. When doing any of the above, do a small test area on one of the doors to assess effectiveness and final results. It might be worth checking with the door manufacturer first to find out what they say about using white-spirit or sanding the doors. They may advise against one, the other or both methods.

To avoid this darkening effect, there are some oils specially developed to retain the natural, untreated look of the wood such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural and Osmo Door Oil Raw 3033. These products contain a small amount of white pigment that counteracts the darkening associated with clear products. The amount of white is minimal and if applied correctly, will not appear white on the wood. These products are only suitable for lighter coloured timbers such as Oak, Pine, Fire and Spruce as examples. If applied to dark exotic hard woods they may give a slightly milky appearance.

This depends if the oak door is interior or exterior. Oak is usually used more for interior doors as it can be prone to cracking and splitting when used for exterior joinery. basic options available for oak interior doors are lacquer / varnish or oil / hardwax oil. The right finish for your door depends on personal taste regarding the look and ensuring that the finish is suitable for the expected use of the door.

For interior oak doors, solid wood and veenered, most people go for a door oil such as Osmo Door Oil or Manns Premier Door Oil. These products seal and protect doors from dirt, grease, scuffs, moisture, hand and finger marks. They are very easy to apply and maintain. These oils tend to darken the appearance of the oak giving it an almost damp like appearance and will enhance the natural character and grain of the wood. To better retain the natural, untreated look of oak doors, consider Osmo Door Oil (Raw 3033), this has been specifically designed to offer the same level of protection as the standard Osmo Door Oil whilst retaining the untreated look.

Interior door varnishes or lacquers can offer better protection in heavy use or commercial environments. Unlike door oils however, if the varnish or lacquer becomes scratched, chipped or worn, there is little that can be done to repair the damage whereas oils can simply be cleaned and re-oiled to produce an invisible repair to scratched or worn areas.

When applying a door oil, always do a test area to assess product suitability and finish before starting the project.

There are a range of excellent interior door oils that are suitable for solid oak and oak veneered doors. Manns Premier Door Oil is made with 100% natural oils and waxes. It is a great way of protecting all bare interior wood doors against finger marks, knocks, stains, and scuffs. Not only this, but the hard-wax oil dries to a clear matt finish which brings out the natural tones and textures of the wood.

An alternatives to Manns Premier Door Oil include Osmo Door Oil. All of these oils will enhance the natural character and grain of the door by darkening the wood slightly to give it an almost damp like appearance. This can be tested before applying the oil by using a damp (not wet) clean cloth and slightly dampening the wood of the door. How the wood looks when damp is a good indication of how the door will look once oiled.

If looking to better retain the natural, untreated look of the door whilst still offering the same level of protection, consider Osmo Door Oil (Raw 3033).

As with any door and especially with veneered doors, always check with the door manufacturer the suitability of any door oils, varnishes or stains. Always do a test area to assess product suitability and final finish and follow the product manufacturers instructions at all times.

Osmo Polyx Oil is a hardwax oil which combines all the advantages of oils and waxes in one product. it goes on and gives the appearance of a traditional oil but offers a durability comparable to some varnishes. It is resistant to water, dirt, wine, coffee etc and is microporous, so will not crack, peel or blister. A better option could be Osmo Top Oil that is specifically formulated for kitchen worktops and is available in a range of finish types including clear matt and satin, natural, white, acacia and more. Osmo oils are very easy to apply, maintain and patch repair.

Anti-slip decking stains and oils are a great choice for decking steps, decked areas around pools and for commercial decking situated at pubs, clubs, community centers and more. Anti-slip or slip-resistant decking treatments work because they contain small, microscopic particles or beads that dry within the oil or stain once applied. These particles mean that on a microscopic level the surface is covered with tiny lumps and bumps which create more friction between shoes, feet and the treated surface than a standard decking oil or stain. Increased friction means greater slip resistance.

Popular anti-slip or slip resistant decking treatments include...

• Osmo Anti Slip Decking Oil (430)
• Cuprinol Anti-Slip Decking Stain
• Barrettine Anti-Slip Decking Oil

In terms of anti-slip decking oils, many of these are designed as a top-coat treatment that can be used over existing decking oils, clear and coloured.

Always read the manufacturers information on the tin before starting any project and always do a test area to assess product suitability and final finish.

This is like the 'How long is a piece of string' question. Every deck has its own unique characteristics that can include how new or old it is, what type of wood is it made from, Is it south facing or a different direction, how much weather exposure does it get, how much wear does it get and which type of decking oil has been used. Because of all these factors it is impossible to say exactly how long a decking oil will last or to recommend a set maintenance period.

In most cases, oiled decking should be given a fresh maintenance coat at least twice a year, usually in Spring and early Autumn when the day and night air temperatures are above 10° (to assist with drying times) and when dry periods of at least 2 to 3 days can be expected. Decking oil should never be applied in damp, wet or cold conditions.

Decking oils are very easy to apply and maintain, so our recommendation would be to periodically inspect the surface and if the deck is starting to look worn, tired or is losing any of its water repellent properties, simply apply a fresh maintenance coat to restore its look and protective properties.

Bathrooms are high moisture environments so surfaces need to be sealed to prevent water or moisture ingress, into wood or plaster surfaces, that can then go on to develop mould, algae, or wood rot.

There are various options available from Dulux paints, including paints for wood, metal, walls and ceilings. Dulux Easycare Bathroom Soft Sheen is specifically designed for bathrooms. Available in over 30 attractive colour tones, this water-based emulsion paint is perfect for bathroom walls and ceilings. It is steam and moisture resistance and offers a 5 years mould protection guarantee. This paint can be brush or roller applied and dries to a soft sheen finish.

For wooden and metal surfaces such as bathroom skirting boards, doors, architraves, pipes and radiators, see our full range of Dulux paint products.

Kitchen walls and ceilings can be subjected to a wide range of issues including moisture, grease, stains and more. For this reason, you'll need an emulsion paint that is tough, durable and washable. Dulux Easycare Kitchen Matt is perfect as it ticks all of these boxes and is available in around 30 paint colour shades, making it ideal for any style of kitchen. It is a durable, water-based emulsion for kitchen walls and ceilings, that can be applied by brush or roller. It is highly resistant to grease and stains, and dries to an attractive, stylish, matt finish.

For wooden and metal surfaces, see our full range of Dulux paints.

Picking the right fence paint for your project can come down to a number of factors, but more often than not, the main deciding factors are colour and cost.

We stock a range of fence paints from Cuprinol, Ronseal and more, all of which will colour and protect garden fences from weathering and the damaging effects of wind, rain and sun. If you are not sure which fence paint is best for your project, call our inhouse experts who are always on hand to answer any questions you may have.

The choice of paint colour for a garden fence is largely down to personal preference. The perfect colour for one garden or person may be totally wrong for another. When considering colours, its worth remembering a couple of things. Wood paints for garden sheds and fences tend to have a stronger, more vibrant colour when first applied. This usually tones down a little as the wood is subjected to weathering. Soft grain woods are more porous than hard woods. Because of this, they absorb more of the paint which mean that colours will tend to be stronger and darker. We always recommend doing a test area to assess the paint suitability and colour before starting any project. It's far easier to paint over or sand out a small test patch than having to live with a colour you don't like or repaint a whole fence.

In terms of popular colours black, green or grey fence paint colours have seen a surge in popularity over recent years, with darker colours enhancing the natural greens and other colours around the garden. Other popular choices are shades of blue and purple.

We're going to make some assumptions about your question as unfortunately, it wasn't very specific. In terms of walls and ceilings, the norm is to paint these with a durable emulsion paint. For ceilings, most people usually go for a white or brilliant white paint but this isn't always the case. We're assuming that in terms of the walls, you'll be looking for an emulsion paint that is available in a range of colours.

In terms of sheen level, there is a choice of either going for a paint that gives a soft sheen, or one that provides a matt finish. Matt emulsion paints are more forgiving as they are better at hiding any slight imperfections if the walls are not perfectly straight. Many would also say that a matt finish gives a more modern look.

Both Crown paints and Dulux offer a range of paints for walls and ceilings as well as others for interior wood and metal if you have skirting boards, architraves and other fixtures to paint. One option that could work well for walls is Dulux Matt Paint for walls and ceilings. This is a durable emulsion paint that is available in a wide range of Dulux colours.

For alternative options, see our full range of Crown paints and Dulux paints.

We're going to make some assumptions about your question as unfortunately, it wasn't very specific. In terms of walls and ceilings, the norm is to paint these with a durable emulsion paint. For ceilings, most people usually go for a white or brilliant white paint but this isn't always the case. We're assuming that in terms of the walls, you'll be looking for an emulsion paint that is available in a range of colours.

In terms of sheen level, there is a choice of either going for a paint that gives a soft sheen, or one that provides a matt finish. Matt emulsion paints are more forgiving as they are better at hiding any slight imperfections if the walls are not perfectly straight. Many would also say that a matt finish gives a more modern look.

Both Crown paints and Dulux offer a range of paints for walls and ceilings as well as others for interior wood and metal if you have skirting boards, architraves and other fixtures to paint. One option that could work well for walls is Dulux Matt Paint for walls and ceilings. This is a durable emulsion paint that is available in a wide range of Dulux colours.

For alternative options, see our full range of Crown paints and Dulux paints.

Emulsion paints are the norm for walls and ceilings in most rooms but in the past, emulsions used to be susceptible to scuffs, marks, stains, and dirt. When trying to wipe these clean, it often resulted in an amount of paint also being wiped off. This was far from ideal in busy hallways, living rooms, and children's bedrooms, where dirty marks and scuffs are common.

Thankfully, paint technology has evolved over the years and newer emulsion paints are much more durable than they used to be. A great example of this is Dulux Easycare Washable and Tough Matt , this emulsion paint has been developed to be 20 times tougher than standard matt emulsion, contains unique stain repellent technology to prevent staining, and can be wiped down without causing damage or colour fade. This makes it especially suitable for hallways, living rooms, and children's bedrooms. Dulux Easycare Washable and Tough is also available in a wide range of Dulux colours.

Emulsion paints are the norm for walls and ceilings in most rooms but in the past, emulsions used to be susceptible to scuffs, marks, stains, and dirt. When trying to wipe these clean, it often resulted in an amount of paint also being wiped off. This was far from ideal in busy hallways, living rooms, and children's bedrooms, where dirty marks and scuffs are common.

Thankfully, paint technology has evolved over the years and newer emulsion paints are much more durable than they used to be. A great example of this is Dulux Easycare Washable and Tough Matt , this emulsion paint has been developed to be 20 times tougher than standard matt emulsion, contains unique stain repellent technology to prevent staining, and can be wiped down without causing damage or colour fade. This makes it especially suitable for hallways, living rooms, and children's bedrooms. Dulux Easycare Washable and Tough is also available in a wide range of Dulux colours.

We stock a whole range of Dulux wall and ceiling paints. Modern paint technology has come a long way over the years and modern emulsion paints are now far more durable and washable than paints of yesteryear.

For kitchens and bathrooms, where moisture, stains, and grease can be an issue, consider Dulux Easycare Bathroom Soft Sheen and Dulux Easycare Kitchen Matt. For small rooms, consider Dulux Light and Space Matt Paint which is designed to make small spaces lighter, thus making them feel bigger, by using special light reflecting pigments in the paint.

The Dulux paint range offers a full range of white and Dulux colour paint finishes making them ideal for a project like this.

There are a range of paints that can be used on both interior wood and metal. One of these is the 'Dulux Once' paint range. Depending on what type of finish you prefer in terms of gloss or satin, you could consider either Dulux Once Satinwood or Dulux Once Gloss. Both are available in a range of Dulux paint colours and can be used on both radiators and woodwork such as skirtingboards and architraves.