In this video Jay from Wood Finishes Direct will explain what you should consider before purchasing Osmo Polyx Oil. However, this advice is also suitable for other Hard Wax Oils, such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil.
Hard Wax Oil FAQ
Do wood oils dry or remain greasy?
Wood oils penetrate into the surface fibres of the wood, where they oxidise with the air and harden. The result is a finish that is dry and non-greasy so will not stain or mark clothing or soft furnishings. If a wood oil does remain sticky or greasy, it has been over applied.
What is the advantage of using wood oil?
Wood oils help to protect and preserve interior and exterior wood by feeding the timber to to keep it nourished and supple. They are the easiest of all wood finishes to maintain and repair. A patch repair, for example, where a scuff, scratch, stain or areas of wear has occurred can be easily fixed by simply sanding the affected area and applying more wood oil.
Can I apply wood oil over varnish?
In short, no. Varnish is a coating type product that coats the wood with a plastic shell or skin. Wood oils work by penetrating into the wood but can’t with a varnish covering the wood grain. All varnish coatings need to be fully removed by sanding before an oil can be applied.
Before you Buy – Osmo Polyx Oil transcript.
Hi I’m Jay from Wood Finishes Direct, In this video I’m going to be highlighting the key things you should consider before starting your project with the Osmo Polyx Oil Range. First off, what is it?
Osmo Polyx Oil is the original hard wax oil a combination of natural oils and waxes for use on almost any interior project. Hard Wax Oil is almost as hard as a varnish but easier to repair. All you need is a rag apply the oil over the affected areas without having to remove any previous finish.
Let me show you a very simple test called the water test.All you need is a drop of water, apply a drop to the wood and leave for 30 seconds, easy right? If the water beads then you know there is an existing finish on there. If the water sinks in this would indicate that there is an untreated surface so you can move straight on to application.
It’s always a great idea to start with the best canvas possible, sand your wood through the grits upto P120, this is a fine sand on bare timber in preparation for finishing not suitable for removing varnish or paint. Always sand with the grain of
the wood to avoid scratch marks.
What’s the deal with clear? A clear product suggests it doesn’t change the colour of the wood, but it actually does. Clear Polyx Oil will bring out the natural tone and patina of the wood, enhancing the grain giving it will appear darker and what we call the “wet look”.
If this isn’t for you, then we recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw 3044. This will lessen the wet look on lighter timbers such as Oak or Pine. Raw gets mixed results on hardwoods especially darker hardwoods as it contains white pigment. If you are looking to change the colour of your wood then you can go across to the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints which come in a range of colours. The whole Polyx Oil range comes in handy 5ml sachets to do your test areas before purchasing a bigger tin.
Over application isn’t uncommon with Polyx Oil but is avoidable by using the P.A.R.S.E. Method
- Prepare properly – sand the wood to P120
- Apply thinly – always working with the grain
- Remove excess – using a microfibre cloth
- Sand lightly – abrade the surface with a finishing pad once dry
- End coat – Apply and leave to dry
Nice and easy!
Without following the P.A.R.S.E method over application
issues you may face are:
A sticky feeling surface longer drying times a patchy finish and product pooling on the surface
The last thing to consider is sheen! Sheen refers to the amount of light the finish reflects from the surface. Contrary to popular belief this does not have any influence over durability.
Matt – Gives you a flat matt look and feel Semi Matt – A slight sheen added to the wood for those who don’t want dead matt Satin – The halfway house between matt and gloss Gloss – Gives the light a good surface to reflect off
Do you need further technical assistance or advice on your project? Why not put us to the test by messaging us or giving us a call. Links to all the products used are in the description on Youtube. We hope you enjoyed the video, don’t forget to like and subscribe for future content.
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Hi, we have purchased some oak veneers doors and it recommends osmo door oil, however using some test samples they only come in a clear or raw and both of these darken the wood far to much for our liking
A test of the polyx raw is a perfect finish for us but is this suitable for oak veneered doors?
Hi Martyn – The Osmo Polyx Oil is not suitable for veneered doors. It has to be the Osmo Door Oil as it is manufactured in a way that dries quicker and can’t affect the glue that holds the veneers on. I am surprised the Dorr Oil Raw darkened the grain any more than the Polyx Oil Raw as they contain exactly the same amount of white pigment which is what keeps the wood lighter (1.25%) Maybe it is worth doing another test area with the Door oil Raw making sure that the sachet or tin is mixed thoroughly.
Please come back to me if required – Alison
Hi my husband has applied 3 coats of polyx raw l (following instructions on the tin) to an oak table top but it now looks white and has visible streaks is there anything he can do to fix/darken it back to its original tone without starting from scratch?
And is there a better choice from the osmo range than raw as the table top is now a completely different colour to the legs!
Thanks
Maggie
Hi Maggie,
The Raw contains 1.25% white pigment and for this reason, it is extremely important that the oil is applied thinly. Try wiping over the surface of the wood with a cloth dampened with Methylated Spirit, this sometimes removes the excess white pigment. If this doesn’t help, the only option will be to sand back and reapply. You may want to consider the clear Polyx Oil which will darken the grain as much as water does.
Hope that helps!
Thanks Alison!
I want to refinish an oak table and give it the aged look with a matte finish and a lime wax/wash. Do you think the Osmo white wax would do the job? Do I need to add anything over the white wax to further protect it or will the 2 coats of wax be durable for a kitchen table?
Hi Jen,
You can either apply 2 coats of the Osmo Polyx Oil Tint in white or 1 coat of the Osmo Wood Finish in White followed by 1 coat of the Osmo Polyx Tint in White. There is only enough room in the grain for 2 coats of oil in total and the top coat must be the Polyx.
Hope that helps!
Hi
I’ve stripped back years worth of paint from my old Victoria bannister, and I think the wood is hemlock (it’s a darker, fairly uniform shade of brown).
I’m not sure what to use on it now it’s all stripped back. I was considering a satin look so it’s not too glossy but has a slight sheen.
Would the original Osmo be best or the raw version? Or something else altogether?
I don’t really want the wood to get any darker either, or not too much darker anyway as I’m having engineered oak parquet flooring laid.
Thanks!
Ben
Hi Ben,
Thank you for your enquiry. The Polyx Oil contains 1.25% white pigment which is designed to keep blond woods lighter. It does have a Matt finish. If you would prefer a Satin finish please consider the Fiddes Natural instead which is also designed to keep the wood lighter but is a Satin finish;
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening
This product is available in a sample sachet and we always recommend test areas to ensure that you are 100% happy with the finish.
I hope this helps. Please do not hesitate to contact us
I am considering finishing my new Ash cabinets with Osmo Wood Wax Finish – either Clear, or Birch. I am hoping to maintain the light ash appearance and am wondering if this finish will yellow over time.
Hi Karmen,
The clear version of this product will enrich the natural colours in the grain and make the Ash look as it does when it is wet. If you rub a damp cloth on the surface of the wood this will show you exactly how the wood will look with a clear oil applied. The finish won’t yellow over time but the wood can natural oxidise under the finish. This can appear yellow. Using a product with a UV filter will delay this process dramatically. Please consider this product;
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/polyvine-wood-oil
Greetings– I have an oak butcher block kitchen island. Can I use the poly tints with the Osmo Top Oil? I am looking for a bit more color than clear, but I wasn’t sure if I could mix and match products.
Thanks!
Good Morning Tracy,
Thank you for your enquiry. Yes, as long as you only apply 2 coats of oil in total; you can either apply 2 coats of the tinted oil. Alternatively you can apply 1 coat of the tinted oil followed by 1 coat of the clear Top Oil.
I hope this helps!
I used Osmo Polyx Oil in matte on an oak floor. Now that the floor has had a chance to dry I am sort of regretting not getting a bit more shine on it. I have already applied both coats. Is there a product I can apply on top or do I need to sand off what is there and start over? Thanks.
Hi Nathan,
There is only enough room in the grain for 2 coats of Polyx in total. If more than 2 coats of oil are applied then the 3rd coat would sit on the surface of the wood rather than penetrating into the grain and binding to the wood fibres. You have 2 options to make the flooring a bit shinier; you can either wait for approximately 12 months for the oil to shrink and then you can apply a maintenance coat in a higher sheen level. Alternatively you could give it a coat of the Osmo Liquid Wax Cleaner which will achieve a satin finish. The Liquid Wax Cleaner contains all of the ingredients that the Poly Oil does apart from the solvent so this can be applied immediately. This will also give you an extra layer of durability. I will pop a link below for you;
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-liquid-wax-cleaner
Please do not hesitate to come back to me should you require any further information.
Hi,
I’m going to be building a kitchen from birch plywood and am trying to decide on the finish. I was thinking about using osmo wood protector but then can’t decide whether to use top oil or polyx as the top coat. Which would be best and how many coats would go on top of the wood protector?
Good Morning Frank,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. The Osmo Wood Protector is a good place to start as it will give a really good protection against moisture ingress, particularly the area around the sink. It will darken the wood slightly as if it is wet and then I would recommend two thin coats of the Osmo Top Oil to be applied over the top. This combination gives a really natural but durable result, the Top oil is resistant to most spillages and easy to care for and maintain. Both are available in sample sizes and so you are able to try test areas first and I would recommend this.
Do not hesitate to get in touch if there is anything further that we are able to help with via our contact us page.
All the Best Samantha.
Hello,
I recent used Osmo 1101 Clear Satin Extra Thin Wood Wax Finish on my Walnut block kitchen worktop. The tin said two coats, but the worktop manufacturer recommended 3-5 coats. I went for 3 coats and although the worktop is now dry, it feels ever so slightly tacky when leaning on it and appears streaky when you look at it in a certain light. I’m not sure what to do. Should I leave it alone to cure for a couple of weeks, use some meth spirit to degrease the top layer, or maybe sand it down? Also, would buffing help it? I can’t find much info on buffing, so not sure if that’s a thing. Thank you.
Hi Tom,
Thank you for getting in touch, always follow the manufacturers guidelines. Two coats is all that is needed, especially on a hardwood worktop. Think of the wood like a sponge, once saturated it will take no more water, the same can be said for wood. Once the grain is full with oil, surplus will remain on the surface of the wood. It will dry, however it is going to be a little tacky to the touch for a while and may mark easily.
I would see how you get on in the next week or so and if it does start to mark easily then perhaps a light sand to remove the excess, a wipe down with Methylated spirits and the result should be better.
Buffing is not really something that helps with these oils, they dry hard and although they do contain some waxes or resins they do not increase much in shine when you buff them. The oil is inside the wood and so there is little for light to bounce off unlike wax that remains on the surface of the wood and is much more reflective.
I hope that helps and please do let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi,
I have recently bought a Pre finished Holdenby oak door and unfortunately was scratched when putting up. i have sanded the scratches down and they’ve now gone but its left a white ‘shadow’ where I’ve sanded. Also where the door has had to be plained on the edges its not quite the finish anymore. Would you recommend the Omso oil to regain wood colour again?
Thanks.
Good Morning Steve,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry, ideally you will need to patch repair with the same as the current finish, which if it is oil then Osmo Door Oil may be a good option. Sample sachets are available in a range of sheens and these are a good way to test if the result will match. If you are able to get in touch with your supplier however to get that information, this would help with picking the right product to use for the repair.
Another small test you can try is to wipe a damp cloth over the wood to be repaired, this will darken the wood in the same way an oil will and could give you an idea of the potential result. If you find this to be too dark then there is also the Raw in the Door Oil range, number 3033, which is designed to leave the wood looking almost untreated.
If you take a look at these and do feel free to get back to me via our contact us page if you have any questions at all.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello, I have traditional pine doors that I would like to give an oak effect and reduce the yellow pine colour but avoid the orange/yellow that some oak has so more brown/grey undertones. Can you suggest something? staircase is hemlock with polyx raw on which looks nice but the pine doors are far more yellow, could I stain and then go over with the polyx raw??
Thanks
Good Morning Hayley,
A common question that we get asked, is if Pine can be made to look like or get closer to an Oak appearance. The answer is not really, they are two very different wood types, in colour, grain pattern, and how they accept products. So to get a match is very difficult. That said however you are able to bring them closer in appearance for sure.
My first recommendation will be to take a look at the Manns Classic Pine Stain and the reason for this is versatility. This is a water based stain, it will soak into the woods surface and colour it, there is a wide range of colour options and you are able to intermix these colours to create new ones. You also have the benefit of sample sizes, so you are able to select a few and try some small test areas on your wood. And this will be vital as the wood type, age and condition will all impact on the colour result that will be achieved. If you do get into mixing the colours, then be sure to record ratios and measure exactly so that future larger mixes will be the same.
The alternative will be to take a look at some of the coloured oils that will colour and protect like the Polyx you have already used. Bear in mind that when oils soak into a wood they will naturally highlight the tones of the wood and so for Pine this can be oranges or pinks, and this can happen even if the oil is pigmented. So again those test areas are vital.
I would recommend taking a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints and the Blanchon Hard Wax Oil Tints as possible options to consider too.
It can be a bit of trial and error, however a close result is achievable with the right preparation and product. For more advice please feel free to get in touch with our friendly team via the contact us page.
Hi,
Very informative. Can polyx wax oil Matt be used on a oak slab bathroom vanity in regards to water repelling durability?
Thank you.
Good Afternoon Lou,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. The Osmo Polyx Oil is a great option for a bathroom space. It will protect the wood and repel moisture really well. For sink areas I would also recommend the application of the Osmo Wood Protector before the Osmo Polyx Oil, this will give a really thorough level of protection in area that is high moisture or humidity.
As always I would recommend a test area first to ensure you like the result achieved, on rare occasions if applying to a mid to darker wood the matt can give a slightly milky effect if over applied. Ensuring the wood is well prepared before hand and application is very thin will help to avoid this.
If you need any help or support for you project, please do not hesitate to get in touch with our friendly team via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi
I need advise regarding preserving
Front fascia of my mu home which has got wood.
One decoratar has advised osmo oil
While other says sadolin
Please can you advise
I can send pics ?
Hello Vidy,
Thank you for getting in touch. Perhaps you could send in some photos to wood@finishes.direct and details of any current finishes applied? What preparation you are able to carry out and your preferred look? And I can narrow down some options for you to consider.
Kind regards Samantha.
Great video. I am going to use Osmo Polyx Oil Rapid on my oak floor and I wondered how long I should wait before putting the furniture back in the room. I have read it takes 2-3 weeks to fully cure but obviously it will be difficult to keep the room clear for that long!
Hello Rob,
Its a great question, ideally the longer you are able to leave the floor to cure the better, however this is not always practical of course. So the floor will be suitable for light use after around 24 hours. Light foot traffic and furniture can be placed back in the room if needed. Please make sure you lift, don’t drag, the last thing you want is scratches across the floor from furniture placement.
Any thing that covers a large are of the floor, for example a settee or sideboard, particularly if the they are low could potentially slow down the curing process slightly, so if possible have a temporary location for a week and then move and expose that area for curing after. Its not vital, however could help with even curing and appearance over time, be practical however as in life sometimes makes it difficult to do these things.
One thing I would avoid for at least 2 weeks it putting down any rugs, this will certainly slow down the curing process and result in a patch on you floor when in the future you come to lift the rug.
The oil will reach full hardness after around 10 days to 2 weeks, time frame can depend on temperatures, and good air circulation will speed this up.
I hope that helps and please do get in touch if you have any questions at all.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi. He did stairs in polyx oil that had to be sanded down for dog scratches. We think contractor put down first coat too thick (although dried ok). Did extremely light second coat as we sanded down to what we thought was bare wood and now sticky after a week. Have done multiple rounds with denatured alcohol as recommended. It is taking off sheen but still sticky. Halp! Do we need to sand down again? Steel wool?
Thanks!
Good Morning Marnee,
My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I think from what you have said, you are going to need to sand back and start again. If you remove all the current oil, finish sanding on a 120 – 150 grit paper and wipe down with Methylated Spirits first. I often recommend with stairs that you apply in the evening, allow the stairs to dry over night with minimum or no use ready for the next day, when the second coat can be applied.
Thin application is the key to the best result, for both the first and the second coat. This will ensure the oil penetrates the surface of the wood, and is not slow to dry or tacky. It is also vital to ensure all previous products have been removed and that nothing is preventing the oil from soaking in. For more help and advice please do not hesitate to contact the team via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
What osmo product should I use on a butcher block kitchen counter?
Hello Frank,
Great question, most Osmo finishes are food safe, check the tin for details on this or you can see all the information via the technical sheets on the website.
The best option to consider for a Worktop or Butchers Block will be the Osmo Top Oil which comes in a range of sheens and colour options for you to consider. I would recommend a test areas first, as the wood type, age and condition will all impact on the result that will be achieved.
if you take a look at this product and do feel free to get in touch via our contact us page if you have any more questions.
Kind Regards Samantha.
We finished our mahogany kitchen cabinets with the Osmo wood wax finish (high solid, transparent, 3133 mahogany). Seven years later as a rental they are still gorgeous. Such s as lovely finish to work with. Very very easy to wipe over small scratches and they disappear. My question: can I use Osmo liquid wax cleaner to more thoroughly wipe the cupboards down? There are small spots where something dripped it where small grime spots built up. Then overall, for daily cleaning, is just a damp cloth ok? Or should the Osmo cleaner be used regularly?
Good Afternoon Jeanne,
Thank you for getting in touch, its great to hear the Osmo is still looking and protecting so well after 7 years. This is great!
For regular cleaning I would recommend the Osmo Wash and Care and then every so often a clean with the Liquid Wax Cleaner for a more intense clean.
Regular household cleaners can tend to wear the oil quicker as they are often a little acidic. If you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello.
I have recently bought an Ercol table which was refinished with Poly x oil 3032 by the supplier.
It has marked very badly, despite putting cork mats down to insulate from hot dishes and there are other marks from glasses etc.
Is this an application problem, or the wrong product?
Thank you.
John.
Hello John,
Thank you for getting in touch. Its difficult to give a definitive answer to that without a little more information. My first thoughts would be that Polyx oil is likely to be fine for your table, however it can depend on the wood type, the preparation carried out and how the product was applied.
What I can tell you is that easy marking is a sign of over or under application of the oil, over application being the most common. Over application can be too much oil applied to the surface, or because the wood is a tight grained, hardwood, or because it has been over sanded and this has closed the grain.
Oils need to penetrate the surface of the wood, once the wood is saturated and will not accept any more, excess oil drys on the surface and this is what marks easily. It is not only the type of wood that can effect this, also the method of application. Rollers application, for example, will apply more per area than cloth application, and so may not be ideal for hardwoods.
If you are able to email me via our contact us page with further details of the wood type or perhaps some photos, I can perhaps offer some more advice and guidance on how to resolve the problem.
Kind regards Samantha.
Can you recommend a varnish for kitchen worktops?
Good Afternoon David,
You could take a look at the Polyvine Heavy Duty Interior Wood Varnish resistant to heat, water, alcohol, chemical usage and stains, it is ideal for kitchen worktops.
When using a varnish on worktops, especially around the sink area, it is vital to ensure the seal does not break, or get damaged and allow moisture to get underneath, this will quickly result in peeling and flaking of the varnish, allowing moisture to damage the wood below.
Sample sizes of the product are available and I would recommend these for test areas to ensure you like the result that will be achieved on your wood.
And if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
We have used Polyx Oil (clear) on a staircase that we sanded back. However we didn’t sand it well enough and the paint that had been applied either side of the old stair runner is still showing as a white shadow. We are wondering whether a coloured Osmo Hard Wax Oil would meld with the existing Polyx Oil and end up looking something like stained wood that’s been waxed over. Just trying to avoid sanding back to the bare wood again. Messy nightmare!
Thoughts?
Hello Jez,
I am sorry there is no cutting corners when it comes to application of an oil. The wood needs to be well sanded and all previous products fully removed. Any remaining paint in the wood can prevent the oil from penetrating the wood as it needs to. Resulting in reduce protection and easy, marking.
If you need any further advice please do get in touch with the team via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
The coat I applied on a walnut beam came out with a milky tint. How would you go about correcting it? What advice do you have?
Hello Chris,
Its hard to say for sure what you best option is with out seeing the beam and the issue you are having. You can send some photos and I will be happy to take a look, to wfd.advice@wood-finishes-direct.com.
The white build up could be a couple of issues, if you have used the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw , this product has a small amount of white pigment to counteract the darkening you get with a clear oil. Against a darker wood the white will show through and you get that milky appearance.
Or if the wood is aged and textured the oil build up in the cracks and crevices can appear white and milky, too much oil, and this could potentially be removed with a hard bristled brush, a bit like wax, but you risk damaging other area of the oiled finish.
With any project a test area is always recommended, this can help to rule out any possible issues and help you to decide on the right colour for your wood.
Once you get back to me with a photo, perhaps I can advice further on the next steps you can take.
All the best Samantha.
Hello, are you able to use the polyx wax oil Matt finish on charcuterie
Or cheese boards??
Hello Rina,
Thank you for your question. Yes you are able to use the Polyx Oil for these types of food preparation or presentation products. Interior Osmo oils are food safe once dry and really quite durable once fully cured. Do always check the tin or data sheets to be sure.
I would recommend allowing the oil a period of at least 1 week, possibly 2 at this time of year, before putting into full use, to allow the oil to fully cure and give the best protection to the wood. And use a suitable cleaner such as the Osmo Spray Cleaner will prolong the life of the oil as it is PH neutral so will not damage the finish.
If you need any further help or advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi I am looking at refurbishing kitchen hard wood doors how hard wearing is the oil wax compared to vanish like diamond dinesh from dulax
Hello Chandresh,
Thank you for your question. There is no doubt that varnishes in general are more durable than Hard Wax Oiled Finishes and will have the benefit of lasting longer. That said Hard Wax Oil are also very durable in a kitchen setting and for worktops in particular I would recommend oils. The reason being that oils are easier to maintain, they will not peel and flake and are better suited for areas around sinks for example.
For cupboard doors the Hard Wax Oil will certainly be durable enough with two very thin coats applied as per guidelines. And will give a very natural appearance to the wood.
I can recommend or the Osmo Polyx Oil as great options to consider, if you have a read up of the details and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.