How’s your garden shed looking? The spring sunshine is wonderful, but it tends to highlight winter damage and show up the tatty bits. It’s time to get your shed shipshape for what we’re hoping will be a long, hot summer. You need wood preservative… and you need it now!
Is your shed dying for wood preservation attention?
How do you tell if your shed needs attention? If the structure itself has suffered in the winter storms, you’ll need to get busy with DIY shed restoration before using a wood preserver. Replace shorn-off screws, hammer in replacement nails or add more if anything’s come loose.
Shed doors are exposed in all weathers and can bow and twist more than the body of the shed. If your door has come loose wait until the wood is dry then fix the doors so they close smoothly, sanding the edges if necessary. And clean the door frame clear of spider webs, compost, leaves and insects.
The less damp, the better. If any of the wood has rotted, see if you can replace it. Seal any gaps with plastic wood or gap filler foam. And replace any worn, cracked, bowed or tatty-looking shed roofing felt. The summer sun can make old felt go all crispy, then it cracks and leaks the following autumn.
How’s your putty? Old, brittle putty leads to leaking windows, which means condensation and damp inside. Make sure your shed windows are watertight and check the putty is good for another year. If not, it’s a ridiculously simple job to re-putty each window. Do it indoors and out for a really good, strong seal. Alternatively, you can use silicone to seal your shed windows, basically the same stuff used in fish tanks and aquariums.
Finally, give the entire outside and inside of your shed a good brush and wash to remove dust, dirt and webs. Top Tip: Don’t use a Karcher jet or power washer on your shed. It’s far too powerful!
Now you’re ready for shed maintenance. It’s time to choose your favourite wood preservative.
Garden shed renovation – Exterior wood finishes for sheds
The fine art of wood preservation is particularly important for garden sheds. You can easily suffer algae, rot and mould, all of which can shorten the useful life of your shed. The sun’s heat bleaches and bows wood, the damp makes it swell, snow puts pressure on the integrity of the roof. The list is endless.
Creosote is hard to get nowadays unless you are a farmer, it’s also a toxic and dangerous product. Luckily there are some excellent wood preserver products out there that are either solvent or oil-based and there’s something for every exterior wood preservative project and budget.
We recommend Ronseal Shed and Fence Preserver, which is brilliant at protecting your shed from rot and making it waterproof.  It penetrates deep into the wood, giving long lasting protection through all weathers. It can be applied to rough, sawn and smooth timber, and you can either brush it on or spray it using a garden spray system. Be aware however that not all garden spray systems are solvent-resistant meaning that the washers and seals may start to perish after a day or two, resulting in leaks. If you can get the job done in a day then it’s still a cost effective way of doing large areas quickly.Â
Top Tip: You can also use wood preservative on the inside of your shed for a belt-and-braces wood preserver job. Be sure however to allow for good ventilation during application and drying.
What if you have a brand new shed?
Most sheds come with a base coat of wood preservative already added. But you should always treat your new shed straight away, once it’s installed, with a good quality, water-resistant wood treatment. Exterior wood oils and decking oils can offer additional protection if used over the top of a wood preservative. If the preservative has been freshly applied, leave between 24 and 48 hours before applying any oil based products on top.
How often should I seal my shed?
Once a year is great. Doing so can keep wooden buildings in good condition for many years after their expected sell-by date.
Exterior wood dye for sheds
What about exterior wood stains and dyes for sheds? Our customers rate Ronseal Decking Stain pretty highly, an exterior varnish that protects and colours decking as well as any other type of exterior wood. It dries to a lovely semi-translucent matt finish, comes in all sorts of fab natural colours, repels water, includes UV filters to help prevent your shed going grey and works beautifully on hard and softwoods.  Best of all, it’s really easy to apply with a brush or roller.
And how about wood preserving paints? We love Sadolin’s Superdec, as it’s so much better than ordinary gloss paint. It is flexible, resists cracking, peeling and flaking, doesn’t need a primer or undercoat and can be painted over existing gloss paint or wood stain. It dries in four hours or less, delivers a gorgeous opaque finish and gives your garden shed up to eight years of protection. Nice!
Garden shed restoration and decor – Next steps
Once you’ve restored your shed to its pre-winter glory, think about ongoing garden shed maintenance. Make it a habit to check your shed every time you’re in the garden, and fix problems as soon as they arise.
Even if your shed is already old, there’s plenty you can do to keep it in good nick for years to come. Take a look at this article, from the Chiswick Herald, about one of Britain’s oldest sheds.
If you’d like to take things a step further and transform an ordinary wooden outbuilding into a stunning outdoor living and fun space, here’s a link to loads of photos of fabulous creative garden shed ideas.
Your garden shed repair tips
Do you have any tips to share about shed repair, making your shed last longer or look better? Leave a comment below.
Hello, I have a 40 year old shed that has been neglected, looks a bit like the one in your picture here: https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/blog/5-top-wood-preservers-to-protect-preserve/
We have put a plastic roof on and will use it as a wood shed and maybe a greenhouse. There is some rot and white fungus and probably some insect activity in places, but complete restoration is not worth it. What can we use on the exterior to protect it from rain without spending a fortune. I’d like to give it a bit of colour but nothing brown or orange and would rather only use one product that is as eco friendly as poss as we have a lot of wildlife and a pond nearby.
Hi Claire,
There are 2 products for you to consider that are water based with low VOC content that are much better for the environment. Please pay particular attention to the preparation guidelines.
Product 1 is heavily wax enriched so will make the timber completely water repellent and is suitable for rough sawn timber;
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/cuprinol-five-year-ducksback
Product 2 is a paint so it will completely block out the colour of the wood;
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/cuprinol-garden-shades
Thanks Alison, The ducksback looks suitable but it is a shame the colours are very dark! I prefer the garden shades as I like a light blues/greens, but don’t want to lose the patina of the old wood
Hi Sam,
I had a new shiplap clad shed built for me last week. I noticed the shiplap is pressure treated but the facia board are untreated pine as is some trimming.
I was told to paint this untreated exterior with something like danish oil, which I did. However I’m worried now that I should’ve used preservative instead.
Can I add preservative or creocote later when the oil starts to wear & before next coat?
Thanks
Dan
Hi Dan,
Wood preservers are designed to penetrate the grain so that the active ingredients (fungicides & biocides) can protect the timber from the inside. As the Danish Oil has already been applied the preserver will not be able to get through the film and will stay sticky on the surface. You have 2 options; you can either sand off the Danish Oil until the surface of the wood is porous again and then apply the preserver or you can wait for approximately 12 months until the oil shrinks and then apply the preserver.
Hi Sam, just bought a new pressure treated and tanalised shed. Knew it would be a lovely colour with a greenish tinge but it has dark green half to one inch stripes at odd angles going over two of the panels. On complaining about this told they will fade over time. Can’t see how this can happen, how these what looks like concentrated tantalising solution can fade to the background colour? What do you think? We’re told it’s a common occurance. Thanks very much
Hello,
Its quite common to be able to see a slight tinge of green on tanalised wood and over time this will naturally fade. Depending on location, exposure and time of the year, this can take between 6 – 12 months. You do sometimes get a more concentrated area or some marking a little out of the ordinary and I would need to see these to say for sure, but I do suspect they will still fade and eventually disappear. If they are prominent then fading could take longer I guess, but if you send me a photo to contact us page and I can take a look for you.
Kind regards Samantha.
I’ve just bought and shed and hope to assemble asap. The base is coated in a ‘temporary water based preserver’. Do i need to add a further preserver to the underside of the base? It is to be located on a tiled patio
Good Afternoon Toby,
I would recommend further application of preserver before construction, especially if its an area that you may not be able to get to again in the future. The Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver is a good option, you can apply 2 or 3 coats and it will soak into the wood and help to prevent mould and decay. I would recommend particular attention to any cut ends also, applying the preserver very liberally. This preserver contains wax and so will repel moisture as well.
For further help and advise please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi, we have just gotten a log cabin installed and want to treat it ASAP. Its made with Scandinavian pine and its 4×3 meters. I initially was going to paint it a colour but I now like the raw wood look in the garden. The company that we bought it from said to prime first with a primer that treats knots and then paint. If I want to leave the wood look what do yiu recommend I use?
Hello Brenda,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. My first recommendation is always for a preserver, this is a product that soaks well into the wood and helps to protect from mould attacks, algae and rot. For a clear option you could take a look at the Barrettine Universal Preserver it will darken the wood slightly, however maintains the natural appearance. This preserver can be used under most top coat finishes, because it is wax free, such as paints, stain and oils.
It is not vital to apply a paint to your exterior projects, there are a lot of options available for great protection as well as to achieve the appearance you want.
For a clear, natural option I would recommend taking a look at a penetrating oil such as the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment it will maintain that natural appearance, although it darkens a little, like water does. Or a coloured Decking Oil which will also then increase the UV protection because the pigments act like filters.
If you did decide you wanted to add some colour to your Log Cabin then there is the Protek Royal Exterior Paint which has a wide range of colour options and some handy little samples for test areas.
If you take a look at these and still feel a little unsure then why not get in touch with our friendly team via the contact us page and they will be happy to help.
All the Best Samantha.
My shed needs new shiplap, and I’ve had some delivered which is the right size and profile but is planed white wood, not rough-sawn. I’ve like it to end up a dark oak colour to match the rest of the shed, but the preservative I’ve got says it’s only for use on rough-sawn wood. What can you recommend please?
Good Morning David,
If you would like to get in touch with your enquiry via our contact us
page and a photo of the new and old wood, i can perhaps advice further on what may get you the desired result.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi Sam
I have had my shed for several years, it’s still looking good. I have given it several coats of clear preservative each year. It is waterproof. I want to keep the natural look of the wood. I have a few questions.
1. How often should I paint preservative on?
2. Should I have used preservative inside the shed? Should I do this now? It looks good inside.
3. I’ve never used a decking oil on top of the preservative. Should I do this? If so should I add preservative then oil this year? If I do add an oil what should my maintenance be in future? Yearly? Bi annual? Oil or preservative and oil?
Many thanks.
Hello Lynda,
Thank you for getting in touch with your questions. It sounds like you are doing a great job of looking after your shed already.Some preservers contain wax and it sounds like the one you are using does, as the wax is what will be repelling the rain.
And if this is working well for you then I would say carry on. Preservers that contain wax are good all rounders for some exterior projects and an annual top up will maintain the protective quality. I say annual, however it really depends on how exposed the shed is and it could be bi annually if the shed is well sheltered from the elements. Interior application is not necessary, however many of our customer do so for that extra protection if the inside does get damp or wet.
It is also fair to say that the application of a top coat oil is beneficial to the wood as it will repel moisture better than the preserver, it will also give some UV Protection and slow down any silvering. So it will depend on how much care you wish to give you shed and what you feel it needs.
Another factor to consider is colour, when you apply pigments to the wood, it improves the UV protection and vastly reduces the silvering of the wood from UV damage. So a coloured oil will always be better than a clear oil.
If you do go the route of applying an oil, this will also protect the preserver for a while and so you could just top up the oil for a few years until you feel the wood needs some new preserver. Its really all about keeping an eye on the condition of the wood year by year.
I hope that helps and if you do need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi,
We had a shed built a couple of weeks ago from untreated wood. It was soaking wet when they installed it and the wood has blue mould (?) on it. I’ve been drying out the inside with a heater but the we had had at least some rain every day and it is still too damp to treat. Will the shed be OK until we have enough dry weather to get it good and dry, or should I put a coat of wood preserver on now, even though the wood is still damp to touch?
Thanks for your help.
Good morning Rosie,
Its always difficult this time of year, even if we do have a couple of dry days the wood will still be holding moisture and its just not the right time for application of products to most exterior projects. We are not far from reaching the time of year where we can however as Spring is just around the corner.
I would recommend a good clean right now with a Barretine Mould and Mildew Cleaner this will control the issue with mould for the time being.
Then once we have had a period of dry weather, a further clean and the wood has been able to dry out you can start application of products to protect the shed. Preserver first followed by a Top coat product to repel moisture and protect from UV damage.
I tend to recommend oils for exterior projects, the benefits are quite a few, and for wood that potentially is still wet the oil is Microporous sealer and so will allow moisture to disperse out of the wood, slowly, over time. Oils are far easier to maintain as well, again, just ensure the surface is clean and dry and apply a refresher coat when needed.
And if you need any advice on which product to go for please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi
I bought a cedar shed last year and coated it with Osmo uv clear protection oil. This year I am gout to use Roxi protection cream. Can I apply straight onto my shed or will I have to sand back first. To add, if so I’m a little apprehensive about sanding. Any tips on sanding would be great. Thanks in advance.
Gary
Good Morning Gary,
A product range I have not come across before and so could not say for sure if you could apply over the Osmo already applied, I suspect not as the Osmo may repel the cream you are trying to apply.
To sand the Osmo out of the wood, you will need to start at a low grit of 80 or even 40. and work up to finish on a 120. sanding Cedar will bring natural oils back the surface and you may need to allow a further period of weathering or give the wood a good scrub with Methylated Spirits before application of any alternate products.
I hope that helps.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, I have just had a fence installed, feathered, pressure treated boards. Looks a nice dark brown colour which I would like to keep if at all possible. Do I have to treat the boards at all or is the fact they are pressure treated enough to keep the elements at bay for years. Having read the comments above my thoughts if I need to treat would be Ronseal Total Wood Preserver Clear then a top coat of Osmo Decking Oil Clear. How long does the Ronseal preserver last ie does it need a recoat if so would I need to remove the oil to do it. It would be nice if I could Ronseal it once and oil every couple of years, would that work ?
Thanks
Good Morning Steve,
The pressure treatment will look after the wood for while and help to prevent mould or decay. However we often recommend the application of a further preserver, these can protect again things that a basic pressure treatment may not and can prolong the life to the wood.
The Products you have mentioned Ronseal Total Wood Preserver in clear is ideal to be applied before an oil or treatment.
You will find with feathered fencing the wood will be very absorbent and I would not recommend the Osmo Decking oil for a project like this, uptake will be very high.
We have some great fence treatments such as Barrettine Wood Protective Treatment or Cuprinol 5 Years Ducksback
Or if you want to stick with an oiled finish then perhaps the Barrettine Decking Oil
What ever you go for, always ensure you carry out those important test area first. To ensure you have the right product and like the result that will be achieved.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello
My garden shed is about 9 years old. Planed wood. Good condition but it wants repainting. Unfortunately it has had different treatments applied in the past and the last one I bought and used in haste a couple of years ago says it is not suitable for planed wood. When I applied it, it did not really take, and i guess a lot of people make this mistake. Fences may have been made of uplaned wood, especially in the days of creosote, but how many sheds are made from unplaned wood? What i really want is something to paint over the top which will protect and provide uniform cover.
So what product should i use and do I have to get it back to bare wood before I start? Sounds like hard work.
Thank you.
Good Afternoon Martin,
It is often the case with exterior outbuildings, fences and decking that what you applied a couple of years ago is no longer available, has changed formula, name or colour, or you simply can not remember what it was, there are so many products on the market it can get confusing or difficult to remember past treatments.
This, as many have discovered, can make choosing the right option for your project difficult, what works with what and how much preparation is required? Plus the type, age and condition of the wood will all impact on the resulting finish and colour.
If your last product did not adhere well then this is likely to impact on any following treatment applied and so I would recommend removing this first, a pressure washer may do this fairly easily if adhesion is poor and perhaps some sanding for any stubborn areas.
If you can then get in touch via our contact us page with details of the colour or type of finish you wish to apply and I can narrow down some suitable options for you to consider.
Kind regards Samantha.
I have just put a new shed up its November will i have to wait till summer to treat it or paint it as its quite cold nor and if so should i put polytheneto protect it over winter for now.
kind regards
Good Morning Linda,
Thank you for getting in touch. It is fair to say that treating exterior wood at this time of year is almost impossible, the wood needs to be very dry and you would need a period of dry weather that will allow the product that you apply to dry and cure. With our British climate this can be difficult to get, however if you are able to get a few days of dry weather there can be no harm in getting at least one coat of a product applied to offer some protection over the winter.
It really depends on the finish that you would like to achieve come the Spring and what products you are looking to use.
If you would like to get in touch via our contact us page with further details and perhaps I can help further.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, we built a log cabin last year and used pre treated log lap. After a few months we coated it with ronseal gloss yacht varnish but have now noticed it’s all going very mouldy?. Is there anything you can suggest we can do or have we ruined it? Why would this happen?
Hello Donna,
Exterior wood can be prone to mould attacks, even after you have applied a product and this can be for a number of reasons, however the most common is the wood may have dormant spores in the wood when you receive it from the supplier/retail outlet. With some woods, they can appear fine in the warmer months and then over the winter mould can appear. Natural tannins that have become dormant when the wood is air or kiln dried can be reactivated in the damp cooler weather and then mould spores can feed of those tannins and spread. This is particularly relevant to Oak.
Or the mould spores are in the wood dormant before application of a protective finish and again the colder damper weather again can re activate and aid spread.We have a great cleaner Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner which is good for cleaning and removing black mould and algae. However if the Yacht varnish is sealing the mould in you may need to consider sanding back and starting again.
Application of preservatives before a top coat can also help to prevent these mould from forming and we have a great range of preservatives to suit all your exterior wood needs on our website.
If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get back in touch.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi
I’ve just had an untreated log cabin assembled in my garden . I’m in the process of covering it with Cuprinol wood preserver inside and out . Do I need to apply this to the timber floor also , before I apply a floor varnish ?
Many thanks
Jane
Hello Jane,
My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. We do not often recommend preservatives for interior areas, however many people with summer house and log cabins do apply preservatives on the interior for extra protection. And it is a viable option that should be done with care.
I would advice that test areas are carried out first to ensure that the products used together are compatible and there is no adverse reactions. Also only use a preservative that does not contain wax ( not moisture repellent) as the wax may cause issues with adhesion of the varnish
For further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch with our friendly team on 01303 213838.
Kind Regards Samantha.
I’ve just had an untreated shed and aviary built in my garden for my pet rabbits. I’ve painted it in 2 coats using Cuprinol Garden Shades. It’s not been ideal weather conditions to paint and has been very humid. I didn’t use any preserver before I applied the Cuprinol paint, which in hindsight I should have. Is there anything I can do when the weathers warmer to prolong its life and protect the wood further.
Hello Clare,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Now that you have applied the Cuprinol Garden Shades it is not possible to apply a preservative, the paint will prevent it from penetrating the wood.
To prolong the life of the current paint, ensure it is kept clean and dry and any breaks in the paint are re sealed with a patch repair or fresh coat as soon as possible. This will avoid any moisture penetrating the wood and causing damage.
When applied well the paint should last at least 5 to 6 years. If and when it starts to fade or fail you can strip back to bare wood and apply a preservative to help prevent mould and rot. Any animals should be removed from the area during application and whilst any products are curing, once dried animals will be fine, but always check manufacturers guidelines before use. I hope that helps and please do let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Samantha.
What could be used on the inside when a shed or summerhouse starts to fade and look dried out?
Good morning Mike,
We have a wide range of products you can take a look at, to help me narrow down some options for you to consider would you like to get in touch via our contact us page, with details of any product currently applied and what look you would like to achieve?
Many Thanks Samantha.
Hi,
I just bought a fully assembled shed that was built using untreated wood but has vinyl siding. Should I treat the inside walls and floor with the wood preserver? And add something else over that for the floor? TIA
Hello Kay,
Could you get in touch via our contact us page. With an image of the shed and which are wood and are in need of protection. And is the floor wood, if so what type? With further information perhaps I can narrow down some options for you.
Kind regards Samantha
Hi,
My shed has been treated with Crysolite (solvent based, high penetration, water resistant) for several years, but I have just finished the last of it (3 sides done). I have found that Crysolite seems to keep the shed weatherproof, but splatters everywhere, and the colour is almost black (the label said green) – a less sober appearance would be good. Should I buy more of the same or is there another product you recommend?
Good Morning Jill,
I am not familiar with the product Crysolite that you have mentioned, but from the name and description, I would guess that it is something similar to a creosote product. If this is the case then you could look at Barrettine Creosolve as this could be a similar product. You will need to check the product is right for you and carry out test areas to check for compatibility and adhesion.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind regards Samantha.
I have just purchased a new untreated shed/bar in pine. I want to keep in natural looking so what should i use to preserve and treat it with. Bear in mind I want to do the least amount of maintenance and once built I will struggle to repaint the back and one side? Also should I do the same to the inside as the outside? Thank you.
Good Afternoon Billy,
My first recommendation will be a good quality preservative such as the Barrettine Premier Universal this will help to provide protection against mould, mildew and rot and you can apply one or two coats of this.
And then for the best protection the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment can be applied over the top to help make the wood moisture repellent and slow down the silvering process caused by damage from UV. It does require regular maintenance, depending on exposure annually or bi annually, but this is straightforward just re apply a fresh coat to a clean dry surface and this will prolong the protection of the preservative as well as the wood.
If you have a look at the products and let me know what you think or if you have any questions.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi,
I’m in the process of treating mould inside my garden shed. There are two types of mould, one black, and the other is like little roundish balls. If I use a
proprietary mould killer, does it have to be washed off after application, or can I apply Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative after the fungicide has dried.
I ask this because the mould is at the bottom near the floor, so it’s a hands and knees job, at at 75 years of age I’m trying to reduce working in a cramped corner as much as I can!
Good Afternoon Mike,
Thank you for your enquiry. The Barrettine Mould and Mildew CLeaner does need washing off after it has been left on for a period of time.
Apply using your chosen method
Scrub the treated areas and leave to dry for 20 minutes (or to maximise biocidal effect, leave for 24 hours to dry before washing off)
When dry, rinse off all substance
Repeat if necessary (although a second application is not normally required)
The wood is now ready for finishing
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch or call one of our friendly advisers on 01303 213 838.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi
Just bought new shed. Should I treat outside base before puting together. If so what should i use?
Hello Michelle,
It will only be of benefit to treat all the wood before assembly. This allows you to cover every nook and cranny very easily and will prolong the life of the wood. I would recommend the Premier Wood Preserver from Barrettine. This will protect against Mould, mildew and rot as well as help to make the wood moisture repellent.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi I have just bought a brand new shed that has had a treatment on it what would be the best product to apply inside and out to protect it thank you
Hello Sandy,
Thank you for your enquiry. We do have a great range of Shed Treatments on our website and it would depend on what the current finish is and what look you are hoping to achieve. If you take a look at the products and get back to me if you have any questions or you can email me direct at wood@finishes.direct
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi ! I wonder if you can advise, please. My husband (who is 84 and has Parkinson’s 1) is attempting to mend the shed as he has found what he thinks is dry rot in one corner. He has cut out a large square of the wood and bought some filler, and paint ,,,it cost a lot but he says it is useless ! Have you any idea please as to what we should be buying to treat it ? Thankyou (we live in France, but the advice from the local diy shop was to buy the filler and a tin of paint so he doesn’t want to go back there again ….) We can probably obtain a UK make via one of the services who send things to France if we cannot buy something here ! Many thanks
Hello,
You could have a look at the Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener followed by a Wood Filler and then finish with a protective product of your choice.
I am happy to advice further should you need it, you can email me at wood@finishes.direct
All the Best Samantha.
I have a 3 year old wooden shed. When i bought it new , I used waterproof stain tocoat. Over 3 years i see some spots that were turning black. I suspect that the water seeped in and there is light wood rotting. This year i pressure washed it along with wood cleaner and have recoated with waterproof stain , this time a darker color so that it can hide the dark spots.
Can I coat it with varnish so that is fully sealed and gets a glossy look? Would it harm if i coat with Varish on top of Stain?
Thank you
Jon
Hello Jonathan,
Can you email me with details of the stain that you have used to wood@finishes.direct? It may be a stand alone product that offers enough durability or there may be something suitable to go over the top. But to help with this I will need to know the brand and name of the product used.
All the Best Samantha.
When you buy a new shed should it already be treated ?
Hello,
The best thing to do is check with the suppliers of you shed, but generally speaking most sheds will come with a basic protective treatment.
I would recommend a top up with the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative to help protect against mould, mildew and rot. Always try a test area first and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know.
Kind Regards Samantha.
I have had a shed built with pressure treated wood. I was hoping to use Cuprinol garden shades, but the chap who installed it did not recommend this. He has said to use a Ronseal preservative.
What would you recommend? Which preservative? then which paint can I use? does it need a primer/ undercoat? or is there an all in one out there?
Hello,
Thank you for your enquiry. You can actually use both. The preservative helps to prevent mould mildew and rot from attacking the wood. Preservatives soak into the wood and some contain wax to repel moisture, they can be coloured or clear.
The Cuprinol Garden Shades is more about giving the wood some colour and helping to make the wood water and weather repellent. It can be used over a preservative without wax. Always try a test area first and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get back in touch.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, I have a shed that has previously been painted using a mix of creosote and engine oil. I have started to rub it down but it’s impossible to get it all off. What type of paint would you recommend using over it? I assume a water based paint will just let the oil seep through? Many thanks Ali.
Hello Alison,
The only thing I can recommend really is to try and Pressure wash the treatment off. And this is only really likely to work if you the creosote and oil was applied over two years ago. You can then apply an oil based product over the top but I would not like to make any guarantees with this. Sorry that I can not be of more help.
Best Wishes Sam.
Helpful article – thanks.
I have a 4-year-old shed build using pressure-treaded shiplap and I have never treated it with anything – what do you recommend I treat it with? I know you recommend Ronseal Fence & Shed Preserver, but this is only available in coloured formulations; as my house is buit of grey stone, I actually want the wood to turn grey with age and sunbleaching.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Hello Simon,
You could have a look at the Total Wood Preserver from Ronseal, it is available in a clear finish. But the clear product contains no wax and so offers little water repellency.
We also recommend a top coat product for exterior finishes to give water repellency and because most will contain UV protection I would recommend the Osmo Decking Oil as although marketed for decking would also be suitable for use on your shed. A 750 ml tin will cover aprox 18 meters squared, as it needs to be applied thinly. But as it has not UV filters in it would be ideal for protecting your wood whilst letting the natural silvering occur. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please feel free to let me know.
Best Wishes Sam.
Hi Sam,
I have an old wooden cattery that I have turned into a summerhouse when I first got it I treated it with wood preserver but cannot remember which one, should I treat it again with wood preserver ? if so which one, I do not want to change the colour or anything just want to keep it strong and free from stuff that will rot the wood, I think it was shiplap
Hi Cheryl,
Was the structure treated with just a clear wood preservative? If so, do you remember how long ago?
Wood preservers will protect the wood from mould, algae, wood rot and insect attack but don’t offer much in the way of weather protection. If it was last treated a number of years ago then a fresh treatment of wood preservative is a good idea. Once treated, you may want to consider overcoating the preserver with an exterior wood oil such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra (420 Clear) or Fiddes Exterior High Build Wood Oil. These oils will seal in the preservative giving it a longer effective life and will also help to protect the wood from the effects of weathering. An alternative to the above is to simply use a clear decking oil.
The oil will help to keep the wood nourished and supple therefore helping to prevent cracking, splitting, and warping of the timbers. It will also provide excellent weather protection meaning that rain will bead and run-off the surface. Oils will never crack, flake, or peel and just require a maintenance coat once every couple of years.
I hope the above helps but if you have any further questions or require help to pick the right products for your project, please feel free to contact us at any time.
Good article, thank you – Marine
I am 76yrs old and bought in error 12ltr fence treatment in dark oak but after trying to spray it on my shed with my ronseal spraygun bought both from b&q northwich find it keeps blocking up I have only recently found out that there is a special treatment type for spray use only which I did not know anything about but have wasted a third of the 12ltre tub so how do I thin it to go through the spraygun as I cannot afford to waste it?regards ron
Hello Mr Hassett,
I’m sorry to hear that you have had a problem such as this, whether you can thin the product you are using will depend on the product itself. It will be worth have a good read of the information and instructions on the back of the tin. It should say somewhere on there that the product is or isn’t suitable for thinning and if it is what would be suitable to use. Another clue would be in what you need to wash the apparatus with. So if you have to clean brushes with water, then its possible that you may be able to thin slightly with water or if you have to clean with spirit then that is what you can use to thin. But over thinning can cause problems in its self, so do read the instructions carefully. Hope that helps – Kind Regards.